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Flare between 2-3 and slip on 4th, fine after trans reset, any ideas?

15K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  rorondo 
#1 ·
Thought I should change the title of the post as I have not gotten any replies. I have an 01 Jetta with the 01m transmission. Its got 82k miles.
It has a flare between 2-3 and slips on 4th a bit, however, when I reset the trans, and clear the cel's, it will be fine for the first sequence of shifts. In fact, if I keep driving from the reset, it will not slip in 4th.
Am I on track thinking its a tcm issue? Or, is it just coincidental?

I do not have Vag com, but found someone locally who does. What should I do?

I am hoping not to replace this trans, but, dont know what to do.
 
#2 ·
Am I on track thinking its a tcm issue? Or, is it just coincidental?

I do not have Vag com, but found someone locally who does. What should I do?
Don't think it's a TCM issue; a bad TCM won't cause a flare AFAIK.

Buy the guy a beer and scan with VAG-Com to get decent code info. *If* the TCM is the cause of your CEL, then it's happening because an electrical fault is detected when one or more solenoids is called on by the TCM. If your CEL is not related to TCM, you could still have a non-electrical solenoid problem, ie sticking, but that is hard to confirm.

There is more 01M info here (courtesy CoolAirVW):
http://www.KansasCityTdi.com
 
#3 · (Edited)
.... when I reset the trans,
Just for our info, because people use this term and mean different things by it, what are you doing to "reset the trans".
1. clearing codes with obdII code tool

2. clearing codes with vag-com

3. Manual throttle body adapt, which also clears trans adapts and all codes, such as with this link... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4466549

4. Resetting adapts with vag-com such as with this link http://www.kansascitytdi.com/01m faq.htm



.... and clear the cel's,,
What trouble codes are turning on your check engine light? Any trans codes in there?


I have a whole slew of info on 2-3 flare and I've been meaning to make a page about it on my website. Here's the quick version.

DONT KEEP DRIVING IT IF THE 2-3 FLARE JUST STARTED! You see the action of the n92 with a pressure guage. Each shift should show 10-15 psi of pressure drop, then pressure will return to what it was before. If the n92 solenoid is a little sticky, then it will be slow acting and pressure has a chance to drop lower, during each shift and stays low longer before returning to normal. If yours behaves this way then you might be able to fix it with a n92 solenoid. But if its been driven this way, then the flare will burn the clutches that grab in 3rd. Even minor burn here will "glaze" the clutch material and the steeles in the drum. This minor burn makes a 2-3 flare just like the solenoid problem, so if you keep driving it then you will definatly end up needing a trans, if you dont allready. I have no idea how much driving will cause this damage to the clutch. Maybe 1 day, maybe 1 week, maybe 1 month. I just dont know.

If you dont have a pressure gauge then I would suggest just trying the solenoid anyway. It would be cheaper and it would give you a chance to look inside the pan for metal contamination, plus get fresh fluid and filter in there.
 
#4 ·
I just noticed original poster has a 2nd thread here in the auto trans section...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...go-Any-ideas&p=72804679&posted=1#post72804679

In this thread he mentiones he has PO730 and P0740, and that the fluid was in real bad condition when he pulled the pan.

Based on this I would assume its too late for any repairs and probably needs a trans, but cant really give a "real opinion" since I cant check the car.
 
#5 ·
I cleared the codes using a generic obdII reader, and also manually reset the transmission by using the key and pedal.
Supposed to pickup solenoid tomorrow, and will swap with N92 and let you all know what happens.

As a side note, I just purchased this jetta prior to changing fluid, and dont know how long it was driven like that. I have put less than 50 miles on it since the first change.

Thanks for all the help and guidance it is truly appreciated.

(** Also, Sorry for double posting, I was being impatient, and thought my title the greatest, and dont know how to edit. (Or if I can edit))

Thanks again.
 
#6 ·
chances are the previous owner knew of this condition and was quoted for a transmission replacement but due to cost they figured they'd get rid of it and let someone else tackle the chore/expense.

BTW I've got the same p0730 but i don't have the 2-3 shift issue, just every once in a while while on freeway the vehicle will not shift to 4th. if i clear the fault with an OBD reader the vehicle will immediately engage 4th (even while driving---no key cycle off/on after clearing fault)

I have heard these trans are not great and typically can be expected for replacement at 60-120k miles :banghead:
 
#7 ·
Update -

Update. Replaced the N92 solenoid. No slipping afterwards. When I first put back together, and drove to test, (I did reset both with OBDII reader, and Manual Key Reset), it drove just fine. After about 10 minutes or so, the flare has returned. Any ideas? It is only flaring in 2-3. I am not opposed to, and actually have access to a different valve body. (Used in another car.) Would it be ok to swap and see? Or, do we have a slightly burnt clutch, or ? Anyone?
Thanks for all the help and ideas.
 
#8 ·
Also, forgot to mention, I now have a 'Pending CEL', for Maf/Vaf high input. Have not re-tested since posting last night.

I had read somewhere else that a stretching of the regulator spring may help? If so, which spring, anyone have a diagram or schematic?

Willing to try any idea ?

Thanks again,
John in Maryland
 
#9 · (Edited)
I would refer back to post 3 and 4.

If your other valve body isn't worn out then it might help the P0740 code that you had. I very much doubt it will help the flare. Its also fairly unlikely it would help the P0730 code, but maybe. Have these codes reoccurred?
 
#16 ·
**Update. Had scanned with Vag-Com, results below. Anyone have a suggestion?

Went to the local Independent Volkswagen Shop, and had it scanned. The codes that appeared are as follows:

P0606 PCM Processor Fault

P1143 Load Cal Cross Check Upper Limite Exceeded

00777 Accel Pedal Pos Sensor G79 Incorrect Signal

01236 Shift lock solenoid N110 op/short to ground


To update you all, this morning I decided to spend some time on her, and found that the battery cable was loose, so, I tightened it, and then did clean the MAF sensor. I also found a un-hooked vacuum line (that went to the intake far left, small hose), so, I hooked it back up.
Was hoping the vacuum line had something to do with it, so, took her for a test drive, and its still flaring between 2-3.
I had thought I would replace a couple more solenoids, possibly N88, N90, and N93 and see what happened, however, have not yet done so.

*I was told at the VW shop, that I may have too much fluid in the transmission. I was told to level the car up on stands, and to undo the drain plug while idling, that the fluid level in the pan should only go up to the wick plug hole, so when it started to slow down draining, it was about right. Any ideas here?

I really just want to solve the 2-3 flare, and may have a line on an inexpensivly priced used trans for it. However, do not want to go that route if at all possible.


Thanks again in advance for any help, and as usual, I will report the results.
 
#18 ·
*Update

Replaced all but 1 solenoid last night. Refilled transmission, and test drove. Flare is noticeably less, say 60-70% less, but still slightly there. I did not replace the tcc solenoid, as I will have it today.
After test driving, or , on the drive, the check engine light came on. Scanned with my generic OBDII reader, and got a MAF / VAF circuit high code.

Could the MAF actually be causing the flare? (Along with an over filled transmission?)

*I will post results as usual.
 
#20 ·
**Update.

Drained fluid. (Leveled vehicle. Let idle. Opened drainplug, and allowed fluid to drain until it slowed to a trickle. Replaced drain plug.)



Test drove immediately. Drove much better. 2-3 flare almost gone. In fact, when cold, it did not manifest itself at all. When temperature gauge moved to normal operating temp, it did appear, albeit much less than before. Sometimes not there at all. Did about 80 miles today in her, very minor flare.



I plan on replacing the last solenoid that I did not replace, and seeing what happens.



I will keep you all informed. In the meantime, any ideas or advice, please let me know.

Thanks all.
 
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