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My experience with the 09G Transmission...

676K views 650 replies 150 participants last post by  Rolnlow67 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, here I go… I will try to put everything in order to detail as much as I can on what I’ve been experiencing with the 09G Transmission on my MK5 Jetta 2.5
Problems began like everyone else’s threads, slip-bump from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd… and sometimes when going down gears.
I began my search over the forum and notice that everyone has talked about the valve body of these transmissions and VW extending the warranty of them. I’ve also found numerous threads of people changing the valve body of these transmissions without any luck on correcting these issues.

Here’s my story so far…
Like 2 months ago, I took the car to a shop to change the transmission fluid and explained a bit my issues to the mechanic.
He changed the fluid and filter and he said that they were no traces of anything that could lead to an hydraulic problem like the valve body, he also said that he put an additive to the transmission oil and that would make the shifting smoother… WRONG…. After a couple of days of driving the car the bump was very noticeable and was getting worst to the point that one day I thought that someone rear-ended me because of that slip-bump when changing gear from 1st to 2nd.

I called the guy and he told me that probably my car needed a transmission oil cooler… WRONG AGAIN… I never talked to that guy again after that.

I called the dealer and ask him about the transmission oil change and my story with the other shop, he said that these transmissions were extremely delicate and needed the correct fluid to operate. He said that I needed to change the oil again with the correct one (VW OEM) and probably needed to change it again after 2000 or 3000 km…because when you do a transmission oil change, you only change like 5 quarts of oil and almost 1.5 liters never comes out. So I needed to do that to get rid of the maximum amount of additive that the transmission may have. I’ve also knew that the other shop used the Motul ATF oil, not the OEM one.

After the fluid change at the dealer, I couldn’t notice any difference in shifting… the bump was still there and the clank when lowering gears, but after like a week I began to notice a difference. These issues were not as often as before; there was a positive progress in shifting, definitely not like when I started.
I still have the slipping and bumping but just in 1st and 2nd… not in 3rd anymore. I will probably go and do the second change to get rid of the Motul and additive remaining’s in the transmission and see what happens.

------Here's where I am TODAY------

Side notes:
I’ve searched about the transmission control module (TCM) and found that some people had problems with the TCM in cars flooded or with sunroof leaks due to the location of the TCM under the passenger seat. My car had sunroof leaks (now repaired) but I will definitely would like to know some more about this to see if my TCM needs to be replaced.
I’ve also found that someone changed the engine thermostat and the transmission problems were gone, but I can’t think of any relation with the thermostat and the transmission shifting. Any ideas?
I live outside the US and therefore can’t claim for the extended warranty. Is for US only.
 
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#74 ·
Four different part numbers for valve body

My 2007 2.5 Jetta has a hard upshift between 3-4 @ 39-40 mph only when warm. Pretty certain vb needs replaced. Dealer said there are four different vb's for this unit. They gave me part #09G 325 039A but were absolutely useless in which one it was. They said they had to take out the old one for comparison. I found the following pictures but the part numbers are different. Can anyone help which part number I need.
 
#75 ·
This is true, there are four different VB's for the 09G, however for your year there are two. The way to determine which one you have requires you only to open your hood. Look on the top of the transmission back by the firewall and look for a small can-looking part on top of the transmission with two lines going into the top. The can looks ribbed or corrugated. This is your case cooler. If this is not present, you will see a odd looking pad on top of the transmission where this would go if called for. Whether you have this case cooler present determines which VB you have. Most, have this cooler, but it is good to verify this. Again, I would not recommend buying a VB from the dealer. Let me know if you have more questions or are having a tough time finding the case cooler. Good luck!

Brad
 
#76 ·
Hello, Newbie here,

I've been asked to look at a car for a friend. It is an 08 Jetta 2.5 with the 09G. She had it towed (200miles) to a dealer a couple of weeks ago because it clunked when going into gear and wouldn't shift out of 3rd gear. The dealers scan found a 00268 (solenoid valve 6 N93 open/short to ground intermittent) and they claim to have found some pinched wires at the trans wiring connector. To the tune of almost $600, they replaced the connector, erased the codes, and sent her on her trip home. She made it about halfway before the same problem arose.
I have VCDS as I have an 08 Rabbit 2.5. I ran a scan and found that it was coming up with the same code that the dealer got as well as a CAN gateway 001044 (Control module incorrectly coded) .Upon driving the car this morning, it seemed to be shifting just fine. The check engine light was on as well as the PRNDS all lit up. There was no hard shifting as I see described by many other people. I reset the code which shut the engine light off and made the PRNDS normal again and everything seemed okay. I drove the car at highway speed for about 20 miles with no problems. I stopped to check my VCDS, as I had it monitoring a few things, and the code came back up as well as the car going back into 'limp' mode. I tried resetting the codes but it would not shift out of 3rd gear. I got the car back home and let it cool off for a couple of hours wnd now everything seems back to normal.
By the looks of this forum, it looks like a VB replacement may be necessary eventually but being that the car shifts fine otherwise, do you think that I could get away with just replacing the N93 solenoid? The car only has 106000km(60000miles). I think I would change the VB if it were my car but I don't think my friend is prepared to dish out the $$$. Even though I work cheap. lol.
 
#77 ·
A/T - High Launch RPM's/DTC P0716/P0740

Condition
Transmission, DSG*, Intermittent Engagement Delay Upon Acceleration
* DSG is Volkswagen Group's trademark for double clutch transmission.

Intermittent delay in power transfer upon acceleration.May be accompanied by a slight jerking sensation when pulling away on vehicles with DSG transmission.

Upon acceleration engine RPMs may reach between 2000 rpm and 4000 rpm before the vehicle will pull away.The complaint occurs mainly on warm engine.



37 06 07 Dec. 22, 2006 2012681
Technical Background
Failure of the sensor for the transmission RPM input -G182- and for the clutch temperature sensor -G509-, caused by:
- Wiring harness connector not correctly slotted.
- Sensor faulty or wiring harness damage.

Either one of the fault entries may be logged in the fault memory:
17100 or P0716 Input Turbine/Speed Sensor (A) Circuit Range/Performance
18148 or P1740 Clutch Temperature Monitoring

Production Solution
Improved production.

Service



NOTE: It is not necessary to replace the Mechatronics Unit.
- Ensure that the wiring harness connector is fully seated and locked into position, then recheck DTCs.

If DTCs are still present, further diagnosis is needed.

Check the wiring harness connector, terminal ends and harness routing for transmission input RPM -G182- / clutch temperature sender -G509-.
If wiring harness connector, terminal ends and harness routing for transmission input RPM -G182- / clutch temperature sender -G509- are OK:
- Replace sensor -G182-.


Warranty
Required Parts and Tools
No Special Parts required.Always see ETKA for the latest part(s) information.

No Special Tools required.
 
#80 ·
So there I was, looking for info on throttle body adaption, and this thread came up.
As I've got the 09G box, was fascinated -- although it doesn't take much ;)
And it's readable as well -- which helps

Was a sticky and/or FAQ ever made of this? The info here and background is awesome
Yep, over here VW UK and their dealers are still saying: "It's sealed for life, sir!"
In my youth ran Rover V8s with Borg Warner 35 boxes and it wasn't true then; with the electronic sophistication of today's boxes it certainly isn't true now:facepalm:

Did my fluid change at 2k miles or so ago on my '06 tFSI Estate now at 56k -- got the Blauparts kit to do it with which supplies Meyle ATF VI with Blauparts sticker on the bottle saying meets VW
G 055 025 A2 spec, and apart from a couple of lumpy changes driving back from garage in rush hour traffic, it's been fine in auto, sport, and tip modes

Thanks again for this thread...
 
#81 ·
Good to hear that this thread is helping others, I would say that pretty much all the credit goes to Brad, he was the one who helped me and others with our issues with the 09G.

I wanted to give you guys a heads up. My transmission is great now, and it’s been without an issue since the VB was replaced. However, doing some research here in vortex, I ended up looking for the Motor Mount (“Dog Bone” Mount) and read really great posts about people amazed with the motor mount sold by HPA and its results.

I bought my dog bone mount a while back and installed it this December. The mount is well made and I’ve bought a few things from HPA before with no regrets but this motor mount is NOT for the 09G.

http://www.hpamotorsport.com/mounts.htm

The first time I tested my car, there was tons of vibration in the chassis. I guess that’s because it’s made from urethane which is stronger than rubber. So I’m now back with the OEM Mount which is cheaper by the way! :)

So, be aware guys the “Dog Mount” motor mount is not for us, probably it was intended for the DSG.
 
#82 ·
Test drive with B6 Passat, transmission problem

Today i'm shopping for a used 2007 Passat 2.0T with 90000 miles on it. Ok its not a new car but still, its my hard earned money that i'm willing to spend. After noticing that my seat would not move, the switches and panels in the doors were pealing off... i took it for a testdrive. Everything went smooth no vibration, all good.

Then, a red light, it jumps to green and i step on the accelerator (full throttle), i saw the rev needle jumping up and down, the car could not find a gear. When applied throttle slowly but steady it seemed to be ok, then did the same thing while driving, overtaking somebody, full throttle same thing the car went nuts... did not know what gear to go to? engine going up and down not knowing what to do....

So now my question is, is this a transmission problem? Does the car needs time to adjust its settings to my aggressive driving style?

Let me know because i'm in the market for one of these cars.
 
#84 ·
Magarmuch,

The dealer is mis-informed. This technique does not work or at least I have never had it work for me nor have heard of others' success. He is correct in promoting the reset of the adpative shift but the only realistic way to do this is taking it to the dealer (ick!) or getting a VCDS program or finding someone who has one and have them reset it. It is actaully an 'adaptation' of the engine control module, oddly enough. I suspect that you are resetting several controls simultaneously this way. I would also change the transmission fluid and filter, if you haven't done so already. This way you can see what sort of metal contamination is present. being that the unit is 10 yrs old, I wouldn't be surprised if the VB is the cause of your complaints, but I would absolutely cover the simple checks first. Let me know if you have any more questions or need more specific answers. Good luck!

Brad
 
#85 ·
I tried the so called "capacitive discharge" it did nothing, car ran just like before. So I decided to order a rebuilt VB from http://www.reamman.com. I talked to them before ordering, they said no need to reset the computer, just change the VB and it should work fine as long as there is no other fault with the car. So now I wait for the unit to arrive on Friday, if it is not too cold I will attempt to change it out. I also ordered the filter from rockauto.com and found comparable ATF at PepBoys (Royal Purple). I would like to post pictures but don't see at "attach file" any ware.
 
#86 ·
Don't put too much weight in Reamman's suggestion. Anytime the VB is replaced, the adaptive shifts should be reset because even though the internals didn't change the soelnoids and shift valve spring settings may have changed enough to cause issues. The computer adapts more slowly over time then when it is immediately reset. I am not sure about Royal Purple's product line, just make sure it is Dexron VI or specifically notes the VW spec. Good luck!

Brad
 
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#88 ·
#90 ·
OK, finally done with the swap out, all smooth now. The trans was almost 100% smooth shifting right from the get go. Did not do any adaptive relearn or reset the computer. It took one short trip of 15 miles with about 5 to 10 stops and the tyranny is smooth as silk. The car has 75K miles, ATF had never need changed, what came out was really dirty and dark.

Made my own oil filler adapter. Very simple cheap and immediately available at your local Home Depot store, pluming section. The thread matches 100%.



Used some rubber washers on the adapter because the thread is too long.



Pump from NAPA, only $8
 
#91 · (Edited)
Made my own oil filler adapter. Very simple cheap and immediately available at your local Home Depot store, pluming section. The thread matches 100%.
That thread is 1/4 pipe thread. Actually the thread should be is 10mm x 1.0.

1/4 inch is very close and its fine to use since your fitting is plastic. I've seen guys use 1/4 inch on a aluminum case and damage the threads. 1/4 would be fine to use if you only tighten by hand!
 
#93 ·
hi all, i've had the car since 08-2008, 49800miles
its happened 3 times throught the years, 3rd this morning on the highway..
each time, it was on the highway, no shifting, just randomly came on, it wasn't flashing or anything, no cel either just inverted selection showing "PRNDS", and was not in emergency mode and stuck 3rd like most i've read

i got to work, turned car off turned back on and it went away.

i have a obdii bluetooth scanner to scan codes when i turned the car back on, and got nothing (should've plugged in when the error was still there)

i did search and most came up on phaeton section of vortex. so far i've read, loose transmission shift magnet to bad valve, and bad temp sensor in dsg trannys...
any help guys?
 
#94 ·
hi all, i've had the car since 08-2008, 49800miles
its happened 3 times throught the years, 3rd this morning on the highway..
Each time, it was on the highway, no shifting, just randomly came on, it wasn't flashing or anything, no cel either just inverted selection showing "prnds", and was not in emergency mode and stuck 3rd like most i've read

i got to work, turned car off turned back on and it went away.

I have a obdii bluetooth scanner to scan codes when i turned the car back on, and got nothing (should've plugged in when the error was still there)

i did search and most came up on phaeton section of vortex. So far i've read, loose transmission shift magnet to bad valve, and bad temp sensor in dsg trannys...
Any help guys?

has the at fluid been changed in the last 50k miles, if not i would start there.
 
#96 ·
2006 Jetta

Thanks all for starting/maintaining this thread, I bought my daugther a 2006 Jetta 2.5 about a year ago, about 3-4 Months ago she told me it started acting funny. It's at about 91K Miles and said some times when she goes to pull out from a stop (1st to 2nd gear) it appears the tranny slips then engages.(This happens very intermittently) Also, it shifts hard from 2-3 and sometimes 4-5 gear. The dash isn't flashing and my albeit low buck ODBII scanner shows no codes. I am going to start with replacing the fluid/filter, and was looking at the Ross Tech scan/software and interface. Does anyone have experience with the Ross Tech tool? Will it do the adaptive reset on the controller that is discussed here? Also, if I do need to do the VB replacement, how do I tell which VB I need so I don't order the wrong one? Lastly, on tupa's post of the document, it describes getting the radio code how do I know if I need to get the code and where do I find it? Is there a place I can purchase the 09G tranny tech manual?

Many thanks to all who contribute to this thread, I was bummed out thinking I would have to junk the car, or sell a kidney to fix. You have given me a glimmer of hope that it may not be quite as bad!!!

Brian
 
#98 ·
All of the valve body to case bolts should be torqued to 80 in-lbs. Any sensors that may have been removed should be torqued to 62 in-lbs. If you need the location of the various length bolts let me know. You will have 16, 21, and 28 mm long bolts and they all have a special home.

Brad
 
#99 ·
Issue with my Jetta 09G tranny

:mad:
Hello all,
Thank for all those threads and learn us about this common issue.
I bought my jetta from a dealer which is an intermediaire between the owner and I last mid-august.
I didn't fell anything when I tried it for about 10 min. When I came back home from the dealers with the car (1 hour from my spot), I experienced the hard shift. I wrote an email to the dealers to inform him that ther is a problem with the transmission. I brought him the car to check with his mechanic and he told me to let the car for 2 days and the mechanic will work on it. The mechanic changed the TCM, we (dealer and I) paid to the mechanic 1000 dollards but the problem will occur. I brought the car for the second time and now the mechanic told us we have to change the Valve Body. He change it by a refurbished and paid again for 1000 dollars. The problem is not solved and ask now to make a flush of the tranny and change all the fluid.
The car was under warranty extension until 13 august 2012 and unfrotunetely VW america don't want to take it in charge because I called him in march to explain my problem and the warranty expired just before i bought it (currently the car has 87 000 miles).

What tips could you give me to solve this issue ? Can I take a lawyer to ask the dealers to assume that he soldme a car with major pb ?

thanks.

Slim.
 
#103 · (Edited)
Not by the book, but probably fine. I think VW recommends filling from the pan simply because it increases the chance that the fill level is proper (via the overflow fill tube). That, and it's probably easier. I know in my Jettas, the T55 bolt on top (pictured above) would be quite hard to get to without removing some extra stuff above it.
 
#104 ·
Great info

This is an incredible thread. It helped me understand the 09G in alot more detail. Another option for alot of the more mechanical folks is the Valve body rebuild option. If interested check out this youtube video. Hiram Gutierrez 09G valve body rebuild. I just finished mine yesterday and its shifting "silky smooth".

Mayn
 
#105 ·
I'm having the slip bang between 1st and 2nd on my 2008 jetta 2.5. Does the do it yourself method really work to reset the adaptive shifting. How can I change the shift between 1 and 2 or do I just need a reman valve body. Only starts doing it when at full operating temp. Please help I don't wanna wreck transmission. Everything else works flawlessly over smooth. Its like 1st let's go then a couple seconds later 2nd bangs in slightly. I know someone said you could adjust just this on the valve body just want to know my options. Thanks and I did replace fluid and filter at 52000 miles it now has 67000

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2
 
#106 ·
Sorry to hear that Jsenske
Same thing happened to me, first it was between 1st and 2nd... then I began noticing the same from 2nd to 3rd.
I recommend you to replace or repair your valve body.
It’s a waste of time to reset the adaptive shifting, I did nothing to my car.

Your symptoms are the same that I had, transmission shift fine when cold but begin slipping when you get to the operating temperature.
 
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