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    Thread: Flieger's Golf R Build

    1. Member flieger's Avatar
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      02-21-2019 11:14 AM #751
      Quote Originally Posted by differentway View Post
      Yes the cost to swap would be over the top .... Probably $12000 I'd imagine. Unless sourced over a couple of years.

      Having alignment issues in the rear .... And it seems to be the only item that is flexing to much .... I'll know tonight if it is the issue.

      Sent from my Throne using Tapacar
      Cost is extremely prohibitive and nothing I want to deal with as I don't want the car torn apart for multiple months because I'm waiting on some random OEM Euro harness/part. The CAE is my way forward...If I want a car with a DSG/Flappy paddle gear box...I'll just purchase one that comes that way.

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    3. Member flieger's Avatar
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      02-21-2019 11:19 AM #752
      Quote Originally Posted by friezop View Post
      Hi Flieger,

      I too am looking into putting together a CAE shifter in my R. I'd love to see any updates/info from you on that! I recently came across some pics on Instagram of a French shop that pulled it off pretty nicely... https://www.instagram.com/p/BtVhorQHmZP/
      There is really nothing to pull off to be honest. It's a very straight forward install once you have the shifter in hand. They are available either direct from CAE or you can go through Rennline.com and have them order it for you. The swap requires the car to be up on a lift, remove/drop the exhaust at the downpipes, pull the driveline between the trans and haldex and then drop the entire OE shifter box and cables from under the car. The biggest part will be after you install the new unit and need to make the adjustments to ensure that everything shifts correctly. The process should take about 6h total once on the lift.

    4. 02-21-2019 11:25 AM #753
      Quote Originally Posted by flieger View Post
      Cost is extremely prohibitive and nothing I want to deal with as I don't want the car torn apart for multiple months because I'm waiting on some random OEM Euro harness/part. The CAE is my way forward...If I want a car with a DSG/Flappy paddle gear box...I'll just purchase one that comes that way.
      It'll be cool anyway with the CAE that's for sure .... Does it make it shift faster??

      Ryan Stewart in the UK (part of speedhunters) had one in his Cayman and that looked ace

      Sent from my Throne using Tapacar

    5. 03-12-2019 05:12 PM #754
      looking for your input, I am torn between this kit https://www.superpro.com.au/show-pro...phan-KIT5238RK and just getting 034motorsport arms.

      What made you go with the kit?
      Now that you have used it, would you still go with it or just replace the arms?

      I am not worried about NVH as I am running basically your same set up in the front, as well as TyrolsportĎ rear collar kit.

      Thanks!

    6. Member flieger's Avatar
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      03-25-2019 10:08 PM #755
      Quote Originally Posted by BTvwgolfr View Post
      looking for your input, I am torn between this kit https://www.superpro.com.au/show-pro...phan-KIT5238RK and just getting 034motorsport arms.

      What made you go with the kit?
      Now that you have used it, would you still go with it or just replace the arms?

      I am not worried about NVH as I am running basically your same set up in the front, as well as TyrolsportĎ rear collar kit.

      Thanks!
      So, in all honesty the SuperPro kit was gifted to me from Brett at SuperPro the last day of Festivus 2013 with the promise from me that I would do a full install writeup on it (which is in my thread and linked to in the DIY thread at the top of the main page). The arms that are in the full kit are plug and play with no need to have a press ready. They are also new casts and not repurposed OEM parts. Either way you do it full arms or bushing kit has a lifetime warranty. When/if the time comes that I purchase another vehicle that has the same option available for replacement...I would absolutely do this again. Having the fully built arms makes install a breeze, and you lose a little weight as well.

    7. Member flieger's Avatar
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      06-04-2019 01:31 PM #756
      Another item ticked off the list of things completed. Should have done this a while ago but with work travel keeping me gone 220+ days a year...it just had to be timed correctly.

      I took the car down and had Brett @ Concours Motorsport install my iABED Industries cam roller conversion. I know I could have done this without any issues but things have been a little crazy since I got home on the 20th and Iím leaving again today for Indiana...so this just made sense.

      Install was very straight forward, with the only real challenge being the tweaking of the HPFP hard line to the new base line position for the pump. The rear was absolutely straight forward.

      We also swapped my fuel filter over to the 6.6bar filter in the rear to see is that will get rid of the pesky low pressure code I get sometimes while out romping on it.









      The last time Iíll have to worry about checking or swapping one of these out! 55k miles... are this one has 5500 miles in it and still looks like new. The streaks are just the oil I didnít get fully wiped off.


    8. Member 2013RedGolfR's Avatar
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      06-04-2019 03:52 PM #757
      Nice pics! Are you sure you are not going to miss follower replacement every 10K? Could you also share more info on the 6.6 bar fuel filter.

    9. Member flieger's Avatar
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      07-02-2019 01:36 PM #758
      Quote Originally Posted by 2013RedGolfR View Post
      Nice pics! Are you sure you are not going to miss follower replacement every 10K? Could you also share more info on the 6.6 bar fuel filter.
      Absolutely, no chance that I'll miss worrying about checking or changing the follower! As for the filter, It appears I was lucky from the factory and had a 6.6bar filter on the car. Apparently there were some of the original MK6 Rs that arrived with a 4bar filter as there is an internal fuel regulator in our on car filters. I was hoping that my occasional low pressure code was due to not having enough pressure from the filter. However after changing it I'm still getting it when I'm asking a lot from the car. I'm not sure if it's NLS induced or something else. So my search continues to figure it out.

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      07-02-2019 02:17 PM #759
      I have had fuel issues on my APR Stage 3 car as well. Like you, I am also still on stock internals and currently on around 37000 miles. But I never had low pressure errors. Only high pressure ones. In 2016, I had rail pressure too low errors. Now before this happened, my rail pressure was always hitting 155 bar. APR Stage 3 file requests 149.99 bar.

      When I got these errors, I was only hitting 128 bar rail pressure. I changed a lot of things. 6.6 bar Fuel filter, intank LPFP (These are prone to fail so I thought it was the issue). Then it went up to 136 bar but was still not enough. Then sent off logs to APR with my APR mobile dongle. They confirmed it was my rail valve failing. Fair enough, they sent off a new rail valve which my dealer had fitted. Car seemed fine. Was only hitting 148 bar, but there were no more errors.

      This year... about 2 months ago. I log the car and its hitting 142 bar. No errors yet... But I know that it must always make more than requested. So this time I took an RS4 rail valve which holds 135 bar. My tuner sent it to an engineering shop where it was modified and it was then fitted. I had a wallnut blast done and also fitted new OEM injectors. Now I hit 155 bar again and the car feels super strong. I am on my THIRD rail valve and the car only has 37000 miles??? But now the car feels right.

      I cannot explain this. The first APR 155 rail valve was right till it failed. The 2nd was hitting below requested but was very close to being right. Now there is a custom made valve in there and my car feels amazing. Hope this one lasts. I will monitor it every month and check. Are these valves just prone to failing too? Is this why HPA's upgrade for Stage 3 customers seemed to work on a customer's car they did cause it involves fitting an RS4 135 bar valve, fitting RS4 injectors and dropping requested rail pressure? I really don't know.

      Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
      2012 Candy White VW Golf 6 R DSG - APR Stage 3
      460BHP/344Kw and 608Nm

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      07-02-2019 10:19 PM #760
      Quote Originally Posted by flieger View Post
      Absolutely, no chance that I'll miss worrying about checking or changing the follower! As for the filter, It appears I was lucky from the factory and had a 6.6bar filter on the car. Apparently there were some of the original MK6 Rs that arrived with a 4bar filter as there is an internal fuel regulator in our on car filters. I was hoping that my occasional low pressure code was due to not having enough pressure from the filter. However after changing it I'm still getting it when I'm asking a lot from the car. I'm not sure if it's NLS induced or something else. So my search continues to figure it out.
      Been a while since I thoroughly skimmed through your build thread but if I recall your running the apr low pressure pump set up too? Iíve had 2-3 instances in the last 2 years where Iíve started to feel a little hesitation under wot and saw the afr starting to rise. Each time Iíve pulled over popped the hood and found the red light on the low pressure pump control module wasnít flashing just dead like it was off, I removed the in line fuse and put it back in and everything went back to normal. Kind of weird but Iím looking at it like a hard reset so now I just routinely do the same thing about once a month and havenít had any issues since. It did throw the low pressure error the first time it happened. The light on the module should be a slow flash at idle about once every 5 seconds and above 2500 rpm it becomes a steady flash. Anyway just a thought

    12. Member flieger's Avatar
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      07-04-2019 12:03 PM #761
      Quote Originally Posted by Porra46 View Post
      I have had fuel issues on my APR Stage 3 car as well. Like you, I am also still on stock internals and currently on around 37000 miles. But I never had low pressure errors. Only high pressure ones. In 2016, I had rail pressure too low errors. Now before this happened, my rail pressure was always hitting 155 bar. APR Stage 3 file requests 149.99 bar.

      When I got these errors, I was only hitting 128 bar rail pressure. I changed a lot of things. 6.6 bar Fuel filter, intank LPFP (These are prone to fail so I thought it was the issue). Then it went up to 136 bar but was still not enough. Then sent off logs to APR with my APR mobile dongle. They confirmed it was my rail valve failing. Fair enough, they sent off a new rail valve which my dealer had fitted. Car seemed fine. Was only hitting 148 bar, but there were no more errors.

      This year... about 2 months ago. I log the car and its hitting 142 bar. No errors yet... But I know that it must always make more than requested. So this time I took an RS4 rail valve which holds 135 bar. My tuner sent it to an engineering shop where it was modified and it was then fitted. I had a wallnut blast done and also fitted new OEM injectors. Now I hit 155 bar again and the car feels super strong. I am on my THIRD rail valve and the car only has 37000 miles??? But now the car feels right.

      I cannot explain this. The first APR 155 rail valve was right till it failed. The 2nd was hitting below requested but was very close to being right. Now there is a custom made valve in there and my car feels amazing. Hope this one lasts. I will monitor it every month and check. Are these valves just prone to failing too? Is this why HPA's upgrade for Stage 3 customers seemed to work on a customer's car they did cause it involves fitting an RS4 135 bar valve, fitting RS4 injectors and dropping requested rail pressure? I really don't know.

      Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk


      These are the same two codes Iíve had almost from the start since I installed my kit in 2015. Iíve basically ignored them as Iíve not seen a decrease in performance and Iím starting to wonder if they are NLS induced. Iím say that because daily/normal driving doesnít cause them to register.

      However, if Iím accessing the highway and using NLS to get up to speed on the run up lane, they almost always register. The low fuel pressure doesnít trigger the CEL but the underboost will trigger it.

      As Iím not home very often due to work...Iím not super worried about it. One day while Iím at home Iíll pull a set of logs with both my APR dongle and my VCDS to compare the data and send them off to APR for analysis. Iím not going to just start throwing things at it unless there is another person that has the same setup and has a verified fix with data to back it up.

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      07-04-2019 12:44 PM #762
      Quote Originally Posted by flieger View Post


      These are the same two codes Iíve had almost from the start since I installed my kit in 2015. Iíve basically ignored them as Iíve not seen a decrease in performance and Iím starting to wonder if they are NLS induced. Iím say that because daily/normal driving doesnít cause them to register.

      However, if Iím accessing the highway and using NLS to get up to speed on the run up lane, they almost always register. The low fuel pressure doesnít trigger the CEL but the underboost will trigger it.

      As Iím not home very often due to work...Iím not super worried about it. One day while Iím at home Iíll pull a set of logs with both my APR dongle and my VCDS to compare the data and send them off to APR for analysis. Iím not going to just start throwing things at it unless there is another person that has the same setup and has a verified fix with data to back it up.
      I have a very similar set up motor wise and in fact all through the car minus the the harness bar, euro seats, and folding mirrors. Iíve never had the p0299 underboost error but it normally comes back to a leaking diverted, bad solenoid or on a stock turbo a waste gate issue. I did the grab dv+ while I was installing the kit, and broke a nipple off the n75 in the process and subsequently replaced it too during the kit install. I donít drive mine but maybe 3k a year( probably closer to 5k this year with the 20 hour round trip trek to witw19) but use the nls all the time and havenít had any issues. I installed my kit end of July 2017 and wonder if there were any software revision on the nls between your install in 15 and mine 2 years later when you log it note the software version and Iíll check mine later today

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      07-05-2019 12:28 PM #763
      Quote Originally Posted by flieger View Post


      These are the same two codes Iíve had almost from the start since I installed my kit in 2015. Iíve basically ignored them as Iíve not seen a decrease in performance and Iím starting to wonder if they are NLS induced. Iím say that because daily/normal driving doesnít cause them to register.

      However, if Iím accessing the highway and using NLS to get up to speed on the run up lane, they almost always register. The low fuel pressure doesnít trigger the CEL but the underboost will trigger it.

      As Iím not home very often due to work...Iím not super worried about it. One day while Iím at home Iíll pull a set of logs with both my APR dongle and my VCDS to compare the data and send them off to APR for analysis. Iím not going to just start throwing things at it unless there is another person that has the same setup and has a verified fix with data to back it up.
      I had the exact same error code and it turned out be my rail valve failing. Log blocks 230 under VCDS and you should see it there.

      The underboost condition I have never had. But will check here from time to time to see what resolved your issue for future. It's definitely related to your car not hitting the requested boost levels. Could be anything from a faulty dv to a small boost leak.

      Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
      2012 Candy White VW Golf 6 R DSG - APR Stage 3
      460BHP/344Kw and 608Nm

    15. Member flieger's Avatar
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      07-06-2019 03:57 PM #764
      Quote Originally Posted by 24valvett View Post
      I have a very similar set up motor wise and in fact all through the car minus the the harness bar, euro seats, and folding mirrors. Iíve never had the p0299 underboost error but it normally comes back to a leaking diverted, bad solenoid or on a stock turbo a waste gate issue. I did the grab dv+ while I was installing the kit, and broke a nipple off the n75 in the process and subsequently replaced it too during the kit install. I donít drive mine but maybe 3k a year( probably closer to 5k this year with the 20 hour round trip trek to witw19) but use the nls all the time and havenít had any issues. I installed my kit end of July 2017 and wonder if there were any software revision on the nls between your install in 15 and mine 2 years later when you log it note the software version and Iíll check mine later today
      The NLS was an addition a little later. I'll plug the car in and check to see if there is an update to the software coding. If no I'll take a look at my DV to see if it's showing any signs of being torn.

      Quote Originally Posted by Porra46 View Post
      I had the exact same error code and it turned out be my rail valve failing. Log blocks 230 under VCDS and you should see it there.

      The underboost condition I have never had. But will check here from time to time to see what resolved your issue for future. It's definitely related to your car not hitting the requested boost levels. Could be anything from a faulty dv to a small boost leak.
      I'll log my block 230 once I get home....hopefully the rail valve is the key and if so I'll replace it and see if that fixes the issue.

      Both things are fairly easy to look at and swap, so maybe after a little under the hood work I'll be back to no codes and....who knows...maybe a little more kick in the pants!

    16. Member Hawkman312's Avatar
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      07-07-2019 12:04 PM #765
      Since you've all been talking about fueling related things... I've been having a bit of an odd issue with my 8P A3 that I've been trying to figure out.

      A while back I got fuel cut just cruising on the highway. Ordered the newest revision LPFP, a 6.6 bar fuel filter, and all was good for a few weeks. Then I went on a road trip! About halfway I stopped to use the restroom, and when I came back to the car, it wouldn't start. It turned out that the new LPFP had blown a hole through the bendy-straw looking bit. I rigged up something temporary to get me where I was going, as well as replacing the LPFP control module and the fuel rail pressure sensor on the side of the HPFP. I was back in action, but oddly the car started becoming very sluggish to start. It would crank on the starter for a good five seconds before finally firing up. It will start more quickly and reliably if I let the car fully prime with the ignition on, before turning the key to start. I attributed this to the damaged/hastily repaired LPFP. However, even after my trip when I got a new-new LPFP, the issue persisted. I have since replaced the rail check-valve with the RS4 part as well.

      Any ideas what could be causing this issue? It's quite strange given the all new-parts, and that once running, the car performs flawlessly. It's ONLY awkward to start up. I've also got no codes thrown, and no check engine light.

      I've got a bit more of a detailed explanation on post #62 of my own thread, along with some photos. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Blue-A3/page3

      If anyone has any ideas at all, I would be hugely thankful.
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    17. Member flieger's Avatar
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      07-11-2019 10:17 AM #766
      Quote Originally Posted by Hawkman312 View Post
      Since you've all been talking about fueling related things... I've been having a bit of an odd issue with my 8P A3 that I've been trying to figure out.

      A while back I got fuel cut just cruising on the highway. Ordered the newest revision LPFP, a 6.6 bar fuel filter, and all was good for a few weeks. Then I went on a road trip! About halfway I stopped to use the restroom, and when I came back to the car, it wouldn't start. It turned out that the new LPFP had blown a hole through the bendy-straw looking bit. I rigged up something temporary to get me where I was going, as well as replacing the LPFP control module and the fuel rail pressure sensor on the side of the HPFP. I was back in action, but oddly the car started becoming very sluggish to start. It would crank on the starter for a good five seconds before finally firing up. It will start more quickly and reliably if I let the car fully prime with the ignition on, before turning the key to start. I attributed this to the damaged/hastily repaired LPFP. However, even after my trip when I got a new-new LPFP, the issue persisted. I have since replaced the rail check-valve with the RS4 part as well.

      Any ideas what could be causing this issue? It's quite strange given the all new-parts, and that once running, the car performs flawlessly. It's ONLY awkward to start up. I've also got no codes thrown, and no check engine light.

      I've got a bit more of a detailed explanation on post #62 of my own thread, along with some photos. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Blue-A3/page3

      If anyone has any ideas at all, I would be hugely thankful.
      I read over your post, and without having the car in person and looking over everything it would be really hard to diagnose the real issue with the car. I'd suggest taking it to a local trusted shop and allowing them to look over the full fuel system. it sounds like the car is no longer keeping its prime within the system and it's cranking until it can get fuel to the injectors to fire. Why it's happening...thats the million dollar question?? Sorry to not be of any help...if you do finally get this figured out please post back here with the solution.

    18. Member flieger's Avatar
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      09-02-2019 06:04 PM #767
      I've been looking for a good full under belly plate. There are any number of them out there but I decided to purchase the Rennline Aluminum Skid Plate. It's a very straight forward install and replaces the factory plastic half pan. I should have it this coming week and will be doing the install on it and my front splitter from Flow Designs. Obviously, more pictures to come!

      Last edited by flieger; 09-02-2019 at 06:10 PM.

    19. 09-06-2019 11:34 PM #768
      The factory Mk5 R32 pan is full length and bolts right up too

    20. Member flieger's Avatar
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      09-11-2019 08:47 PM #769
      Quote Originally Posted by thegave View Post
      The factory Mk5 R32 pan is full length and bolts right up too
      Correct...and itís plastic...giving no additional pan protection.

    21. Member flieger's Avatar
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      09-11-2019 09:02 PM #770
      Decided that I didnít have the time today to load things up and run down to the shop. So I decided to put the car up on the ramps and install my Rennline Aluminum Skid Plate.



      Very simple and straightforward install as itís a one for one swap with the OEM half plastic belly pan. Youíll only need a T-25 bit and a 4mm hex wrench.



      Obviously, if you are doing this in the garage and donít have ramps, you need to make sure that the car is properly supported on a set of stands. And also remember that either way you choose to do it make sure to set your parking brake and chalk a rear wheel.



      For those of you wondering...the aluminum plate weighs 10.6lbs. On the plus side itís well spread across the front of the car and not centered in one spot.







      Iím going to wait and see how much debris I collect in the two holes from driving between now and my next oil change. Depending on what I find, Iíll plan to install some aluminum mesh to help keep it cleaner.



      Last edited by flieger; 09-11-2019 at 09:11 PM.

    22. Member ecirwin's Avatar
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      09-12-2019 06:52 AM #771
      Quote Originally Posted by flieger View Post
      You forgot a screw at the middle front.
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    23. Member flieger's Avatar
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      09-12-2019 01:10 PM #772
      Quote Originally Posted by ecirwin View Post
      You forgot a screw at the middle front.
      Donít have one at the moment. Looking for a suitable screw to put in place that wonít puncture the bottom of the radiator if hit. Oddly enough, the plate came with the three for the rear but not for the front.

    24. Member ecirwin's Avatar
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      09-12-2019 07:26 PM #773
      Quote Originally Posted by flieger View Post
      Donít have one at the moment. Looking for a suitable screw to put in place that wonít puncture the bottom of the radiator if hit. Oddly enough, the plate came with the three for the rear but not for the front.
      With all the overlapping metal flaps, I'm not sure you need to have that one anyway.
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    25. Member flieger's Avatar
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      09-12-2019 07:46 PM #774
      Quote Originally Posted by ecirwin View Post
      With all the overlapping metal flaps, I'm not sure you need to have that one anyway.
      Thatís pretty much what I was thinking as itís a pretty tight fit up front. I think that might have been a MK5 thing...not sure though since I skipped the MK5s

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      Location
      NY
      Posts
      3,269
      Vehicles
      337 (sold), '13 Golf R
      09-13-2019 09:25 AM #775
      Quote Originally Posted by flieger View Post
      Thatís pretty much what I was thinking as itís a pretty tight fit up front. I think that might have been a MK5 thing...not sure though since I skipped the MK5s
      As far as I know there's no screw needed in the front center, the overlap design is what holds it there. The stock MK6 R half shield doesn't have a hole there and the MK5 R32 full size shield (which I have on my R) also doesn't have a hole there. Must just be an extra hole Rennline added for some reason.

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