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g60 FAQ - Read this first!

177K views 66 replies 39 participants last post by  rabbitmike 
#1 ·
Hello everyone-
At the request of the masses, here's an FAQ for the g60 forum. For now, most of the content will be copied out of the FAQ in the Corrado forum, but I'd love it if we could develop some more in-depth stuff to have in here. If anyone's willing to do writeups or pictorals on common (or not so common!) procedures, or anything like that, please let me know.
g60 topics:
-Rebuilding the g60 Charger
-BOV's, the boost return hose, and related topics
-Turbo conversions for the g60 Corrado
-16v g60 Information
-Checking the boost on your MFA, What boost you should have with different pullies, etc.
-Overview of g60 modifications
-4 lug to 5 lug conversion (ie, swapping the 5-lug setup from the SLC on to a g60)
-Removing the g60 charger
-Automatic to Manual transmission conversions
-Removal of the bumper and stock intercooler
-Motor mount options - OEM and aftermarket
-Exhaust systems
-Coolant Flushing
-20v Head with PG block..

-Nate

Modified by SaabFan at 3:06 PM 2-6-2004
 
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#52 ·
Re: g60 FAQ - Read this first! (16vturbo gti)

amazon has 26#(stock size),30#,36#,44# for like super cheap.
free ship and no tax in most states.
search for set of 4 injectors.
26# =89$,30#=83$,36#=139,32#=105$
pricing changes daily but i rock their 30# they are awesome.
think about it new fpr $75 or new injectors. or clean injectors $75 or new injectors $89 (26#) nuff said.
passing the deal.
 
#55 ·
How to fix your busted charger bolt threads

Quote, originally posted by the_mad_rabbit »

What you need:
$75 shipped from HF- full helicoil kit
Ratchet and 10mm socket
Beer
10 minutes from your life
Note: Charger bolt is 8mx1.25

BOOYAKASHA!

WAOOO!!!!

What's this?
OMG! SEX!

So, i got busy with the repair of mr. charger outlet that got stripped out thanks to a too-long-of-a-bolt AND previous-owner-is-an-idiot

Theres mr. charger- notice how there are no threads and its smooth? Well, that was BEFORE i even drilled it out.

(insert drilling out hole)
To begin with, my improvised thread tool as I'm not wasting $10 on the dam thing when I have the tools available to replicate/replace/improve on it:

(10mm socket)
Stuffed

Tapped (use WD 40 and a good amount of pressure)

Installed

Tested

Jerked of in a corner over extreme excitement

Obligatory beer for success

Now have fun.
-AJ
 
#56 ·
Re: g60 FAQ - Read this first! (cbgthor)

The DIGIFANT uses a MAP [Manifold Absolute Pressure] sensor
mounted in the ecu it is a specific size, 1 bar=15psi the sensor
fills with the manifold pressure sending its reading to the ECU 8MB
EPROM chip to adjust the injector pulse according to the program. I.E. digi lag.
The ODB 1 and ODB 2 ecu uses a MAF [Mas Air Flow] the problematic
air flow meter on the intake track measures the air flow entering the
engine, calculates the values then sends it to the processor for instant fuel correction .
For proper combustion the proper fuel ratio and ignition timing need
to happen so the working gases ignite evenly across the piston top.
Most engines produce maximum power (with optimized ignition
timing) at an air-fuel-ratio between 12 and 13. Let's assume the
optimum is in the middle at 12.5. This means that for every kg of
air, 0.08 kg of fuel is mixed in and vaporized. The vaporization of
the fuel extracts 28 kJ of energy from the air charge. If the mixture
has an air-fuel-ratio of 11 instead, the vaporization extracts 31.8 kJ
instead. A difference of 3.8 kJ. Because air has a specific heat of
about 1 kJ/kg*deg K, the air charge is only 3.8 C (or K) degrees
cooler for the rich mixture compared to the optimum power mixture.
This small difference has very little effect on knock or power output.
the mixture gets ignited by the spark, a flame front spreads out from
the spark plug. This burning mixture increases the pressure and
temperature in the cylinder. At some time in the process the
pressures and temperatures peak. The speed of the flame front is
dependent on mixture density and AFR. A richer or leaner AFR than
about 12-13 AFR burns slower. A denser mixture burns faster.
So with a engine under boost the mixture density raises and results in
a faster burning mixture. The closer the peak pressure is to TDC, the
higher that peak pressure is, resulting in a high knock probability.
Also there is less leverage on the crankshaft for the pressure to
produce torque, and, therefore, less power.

The spark plug ignites the mixture and the fire starts burning. The
speed of this flame front depends on the mixture, this means how
many air and fuel molecules are packed together in the combustion
chamber. The closer they are packed together in the same volume,
the easier it is for the fire to jump from one set of molecules to the
other. The burning speed is also dependent on the air-fuel-ratio. At
about 12.5 to 13 air-fuel-ratio the mixture burns fastest. A leaner
mixture than that burns slower. A richer mixture also burns slower.
That's why the maximum power mixture is at the fastest burn speed.
It takes some time for this flame front to consume all the fuel in the
combustion chamber. As it burns, the pressure and temperature in
the cylinder increases. This pressure peaks at some point after TDC
. Many experiments have shown that the optimum position for this
pressure peak is about 15 to 20 degrees after TDC. The exact
location of the optimum pressure peak is actually independent of
engine load or RPM, but dependent on engine geometry.
The advances in power of modern engines, despite the lower quality
of gasoline today, comes partially from improvements in combustion
chamber and spark plug location. Modern engines are optimized so
that the flame front has the least distance to travel and consumes the
mixture as fast as possible. An already burned mixture can no longer
explode and therefore higher compression ratios are possible with
lower octane fuel. Some race or high performance engines actually
have 2 or three spark plugs to ignite the mixture from multiple
points. This is done so that the actual burn time is faster with multiple
flame fronts. Again, this is to consume the mixture faster without
giving it a chance to self-ignite.
 
#57 ·
Re: g60 FAQ - Read this first! (REPOMAN)

INA Engineering : Official VWVortex Rotrex Supercharger
What kind of boost pressure and heat will we see from these chargers?
if we have a OEM crank pully of 5 3/4" = 146mm
and the smallest Rotrex charger pully is 70mm
then that makes it a 2.0:1 engine rpm to charger rpm ratio
that means on a PG engine i would see 6500rpm = 13000
on a built engine i could see 8000rpm = 16000
that would mean the charger input shaft will be spinning
13000rpm or 16000rpm
at 1:7.5 impeller ratio on your largest charger
that equals 97500rpm or 112000rpm
on the C38-61 the flow chart shows a 3.6 - 4.6 pressure ratio
1 psi = 0.7031 grams/square millimetre
at the maxime Charger RPM at 0.40 kg/S
x 3.6 = 1.44 kg 0r 1.4 bar =20psi
x 4.6 = 1.84 kg or 1.8 bar =26psi
the C38-71 shows at max rpm a 0.45 kg/s
x 4.6 = 2.07kg or 2.0 bar = 29psi
this looks goodBUT the flow chart shows 115000 rpm
were the ad says 90,000 rpm Maximum Impeller Speed
NOTE 90,000 RPM limit
so in relality 0.40 kg/s
x 2.8 = 1.12 kg or 1.0 bar = 15.9 psi
This is the largest Rotrex charger on the charts provided
after doing the math on all that data provided i still don't know what
the thermal dynamics are? how hot is the charged air?
Assuming the use of a 70mm unit.Most Rotrex chargers leave Rotrex with either a 90mm or 100mm pulley
ok so a stock PG 144mm crank pully at 6500 rpm
90mm = 1.6:1 ratio = 10400 x 7.5 = 78000 charger impeller RPM
100mm= 1.4:1 ratio = 9100 x 7.5 = 68250 charger impeller RPM
on the 3.0l-6.0l charger flow chart
90mm 78000 = 2.4 at 0.30 = .72kg/s = 10 psi
100mm 68250 =2.0 at 0.25= 5.0kg/s = 7psi
 
#59 ·
Automatic 096 Discontinued Transmission Cooler Filter & Domestic Oil Filter

Quote, originally posted by z-raddo g60 »
The CarQuest worker stated the bypass oil filter that could be used is a super common filter. It matche(s) the threads perfectly (to the OEM Bosch filter). The CarQuest part number is 85040.

A more common brand of oil filter is the Fram 3387A. I went with the Tough Guard for the bypass and no drain back feature, TG3387A.
link for photo
 
#60 ·
Re: g60 FAQ - Read this first! (ValveCoverGasket)

This was fantastic...great job. Could you help me out with a small detail? I need to figure out where the the following wires hook up to..."solid Red goes to #87 on the fuel pump relay - Red/Green strip- goes to #50 recieves +12v during starting - ISV or Idle Stabilizer Valve- Solid White/ Black with Yellow stripe recives power from #15 which is switched 12V +. - Yellow with Blue stripe, goes to #85 on fuel pump relay." Could you send me a picture and details of how you hooked everything up. Thanks bro. I'm almost done and then I'll post all the pics.,
Regards,
Michael
 
#61 ·
Re: g60 FAQ - Read this first! (SaabFan)

One thing to always check if you are stalling/not starting is the following:
- Remove the Hall connection at the distributor
- connect a voltmeter to the outer pins (set voltmeter to read approx 10.5 volts
- turn the ignition switch to run and measure the volts - must be greater than 10 volts
- cycle the ignition switch while watching the meter to ensure it always reads greater than 10 volts,
If it is all over the map - ie 10.5 volts one instance and then 8 volts the next, change your ECU relay - position 3 and either #30 or #32 relay. (I have also read that a #109 works, but I haven't confirmed this)
Ask me how I know this - just spent 2 days trying to track down an intermittent stall on my Son's corrado.
Also, if your car uses a #30 ECU relay, it is fine to use a #32. There is an extra terminal on the #30, but it is not required. It goes to the ECU, but I have confirmed it isn't required. In fact, most wiring diagrams show this teminal on the ECU is not connected.
 
#62 ·
Re: g60 FAQ - Read this first! (ValveCoverGasket)

I was wondering, do you know if a corrado ECU (VW# 037 906 022 B) will work in a passat syncro G60 swap into a MK1? My original passat syncro G60 ECU (VW# 037 906 022 DQ) is fried. Any help would be great. I can be emailed at minicoretti@hotmail.com
Thanks.
 
#63 ·
Re: g60 FAQ - Read this first! (minicoretti)

the B works in just about anything not-automatic within the 037 906 022 class. the newer models had fixes to the original B board due to change in supplier parts. However automagic cars should stay in the same ALPHA version.
B != automagic
CR/CQ = could work on automatic if you had cr/cq
DQ = best stick to DQ if you have automatic
the passat also did its ground through the ecu mount point - the corrado does not.
 
#67 ·
heres a tricky one...i read along time ago that a g60 isv will release boost at high psi rateing over 10 psi?????anyone if this is truth.cant remmember where i read it but a long time ago everyone was putting check valves to stop it from bleeding out boost. any info would be great .]
:banghead:
 
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