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    Thread: A quick D.I.Y. Cam Chain and Tensioner *BPY engines

    1. 03-19-2019 06:58 PM #351
      Quote Originally Posted by nater View Post
      It is on the VR. Passenger side.


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      VR?

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    3. Angry Administrator nater's Avatar
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      03-20-2019 09:12 AM #352
      Quote Originally Posted by Sandman333 View Post
      VR?
      VR6. Just saying that on the VR6 the fuel tank is in that spot. Should be the same.
      As a matter of fact, I remember my BPY Passat fuel tank being there as well.
      Sorry for the confusion

    4. 04-18-2019 12:16 PM #353
      Quote Originally Posted by btrux0611 View Post
      And I believe it is 19 teeth! From intake cam notch to exhaust back side notch. 19 teeth or half links across the top.
      I've attempted this job before reading this. I'm not using a cam locking tool, since I see numerous posts saying that it does not work. What I'm missing out on is the count.
      Are you saying that it is 19 half links BETWEEN the two manufactured notches on each cam sprocket? I keep losing count as I didn't properly mark the exhaust cam notch mark. My timing belt broke, hence I had both cams removed (hence the avoidance of the cam locking tool).

    5. Member APURPLEKING's Avatar
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      04-18-2019 12:22 PM #354
      When did this on my car it seemed like the cam lock held the exhaust cam in place while removing the tensioner bolt.

      A breaker bar + a pipe to break it loose.

      I don't see how that wouldn't move without the cam lock tool.

      But that's just my thinking....

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    6. 04-18-2019 03:24 PM #355
      The timing belt on my car broke. I removed the head and cams, and replaced all 16 valves. Since I have both cams out, I wouldn't need the cam locking tool. I would only need to connect the 2 cams together with the chain before placing them together back on the head. I was only inquiring about the number of links required between the two marks. I don't want to unbolt the VVT adjuster.

    7. 04-18-2019 04:29 PM #356
      I messed something up somewhere.

      https://youtu.be/mI3DyezPdhs


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    8. 04-19-2019 09:01 AM #357
      My replacement chain was just as tight as yours....no issue. The tensioner is there for when and if the chain stretches. As far as your links are concerned, there is a simple was to tell if your cams are timed correctly. Just put cylinder one on TDC and look at the cylinder 4 intake and exhaust cam lobes. If they are tin exactly the same position then you are timed correctly. I take a straight edge and lay it on the top of the head and measure the distance from the highest point of the lobes to the straight edge. They should be very close to one another. If they aren't, you are one tooth off....

    9. 04-19-2019 04:38 PM #358
      Quote Originally Posted by kjr6306 View Post
      Just put cylinder one on TDC and look at the cylinder 4 intake and exhaust cam lobes. If they are tin exactly the same position then you are timed correctly. I take a straight edge and lay it on the top of the head and measure the distance from the highest point of the lobes to the straight edge. They should be very close to one another. If they aren't, you are one tooth off....
      This is how I arrived at getting 20-half-links in the first place.
      both the old and new chains are the same. I got the 3 tensioner holes to line up now. What I want to verify is that the count goes something like this: you have the manufactured notch on the intake camshaft sprocket, 20 half-links in between, then the manufactured notch on the VVT camshaft sprocket?

      I was concerned because I saw an earlier post that said 19 half-links (between both marks)

    10. 04-30-2019 09:28 PM #359
      I dont count the links. I just put the engine at TDC and get the cams to match and I know I am good.

    11. 05-10-2019 09:07 AM #360
      Quote Originally Posted by kjr6306 View Post
      I dont count the links. I just put the engine at TDC and get the cams to match and I know I am good.
      My cams for cylinder #4 match, but my car idles lumpy. I know I have an exhaust leak after the secondary oxygen sensor due to a cheap vband clamp for my aftermarket exhaust. Would a compression test be the best way to tell if I'm off by a tooth?

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    12. 05-10-2019 09:28 AM #361
      Quote Originally Posted by NitrousOxide View Post
      My cams for cylinder #4 match, but my car idles lumpy. I know I have an exhaust leak after the secondary oxygen sensor due to a cheap vband clamp for my aftermarket exhaust. Would a compression test be the best way to tell if I'm off by a tooth?
      No. VAGcom will tell (on the older 1.8T and 2.7T etc, it was blocks 090-093 for the timing), but not sure which blocks.

    13. n00b
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      06-14-2019 10:04 AM #362
      Any ideas what screw extractor tool the mechanic used to get the bolt out?

    14. 06-14-2019 10:10 AM #363
      Sheared the head off the polydrive bolt or just stripped the teeth? I stripped the teeth off mine so I just removed the intake cam and finagled everything out and back in. Added work of removing the cam cage but not that bad. Didn’t want to risk trying to drill the bolt out and damaging something else.

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      06-14-2019 10:43 AM #364
      Just stripped the teeth. Yeah not sure what is more of a pain, drilling out the cam adjuster bolt or doing it your way. Some people seem to have done alright drilling the bolt out but mine is in there fkn tight..

    16. 06-15-2019 06:20 AM #365
      Hello all

      I Have a loud rattling noise coming from engine, I was thinking it is the cam chain tensioner, although it has been replaced 4 years ago. Is this normal you see on the video? Should there be pre tension, some kind of spring pushing tensioner upwards before oil pressure comes in? This video is after I pushed the tensioner down by hand, there was oil inside.

      Also during higher revs the sound goes off, probably meaning that there is no enough pressure in tensioner to keep the chain tight during idle?

      https://youtu.be/J2HqgETef5I

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    17. 07-20-2019 09:24 PM #366
      That looks normal to me since you need actual oil pressure to maintain the tension.

      Are the two plastic surfaces showing signs of wear?

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      07-26-2019 11:55 AM #367
      Quote Originally Posted by Heromanni View Post
      Hello all

      I Have a loud rattling noise coming from engine, I was thinking it is the cam chain tensioner, although it has been replaced 4 years ago. Is this normal you see on the video? Should there be pre tension, some kind of spring pushing tensioner upwards before oil pressure comes in? This video is after I pushed the tensioner down by hand, there was oil inside.

      Also during higher revs the sound goes off, probably meaning that there is no enough pressure in tensioner to keep the chain tight during idle?

      https://youtu.be/J2HqgETef5I

      Lähetetty minun ONEPLUS A6003 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
      If you can easily push down the tensioner after its been pressurized by oil then it needs replacing. The first mode of failure is typically the oil seal inside. Yes there is a spring for initial start but once the tensioner has oil pressure it should maintain that pressure even when the oil pressure is low (at idle) or briefly when off.

      If it's loud at idle and goes away with increased rpm then it's very likely a bad tensioner.

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      08-02-2019 03:56 PM #368
      Getting the Cam Chain/tensioner replaced while at my mechanic doing the timing belt/water pump and a bunch of other stuff. Apparently the bold holding in the tensioner broke. He said he could drill it out and so on however risk of metal shavings and potential down the road issues is possible. Best way would be to replace the Cam & Tensioner to do it properly. So thats what I ended up saying to do.

      I just dont understand why VW would put such a small weak screw in that area? Put something thats not going to break and cause problems.

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      08-13-2019 03:41 PM #369
      Quote Originally Posted by bryanviper View Post
      Getting the Cam Chain/tensioner replaced while at my mechanic doing the timing belt/water pump and a bunch of other stuff. Apparently the bold holding in the tensioner broke. He said he could drill it out and so on however risk of metal shavings and potential down the road issues is possible. Best way would be to replace the Cam & Tensioner to do it properly. So thats what I ended up saying to do.

      I just dont understand why VW would put such a small weak screw in that area? Put something thats not going to break and cause problems.
      I think you mean the bolt holding the VVT. Anyhow there should be little reason to replace a VVT unless there is a broken key or broken teeth. What cam is he replacing and why? I've done this job 4 times and never broke a VVT or cam during the process.

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      08-13-2019 06:52 PM #370
      Well its already done. Your probably right. the bolt holding the VVT. I think the bolt broke or something and he would need ot drill it out with the potential of having metal shavings inside the engine. so since the cam & im guessing the VVT are attached he needs to remove it in 1 part since the bolt snapped.

      At least that was my understanding, so a new Cam & VVT were ordered and installed since I did not want to drill out the bolt with potential issues down the line.

      Quote Originally Posted by Barn01 View Post
      I think you mean the bolt holding the VVT. Anyhow there should be little reason to replace a VVT unless there is a broken key or broken teeth. What cam is he replacing and why? I've done this job 4 times and never broke a VVT or cam during the process.

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    22. Member vwooom's Avatar
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      08-26-2019 10:02 PM #371
      Folks I’m getting ready to reassemble after replacing my intake cam, tensioner, hpfp, follower. I got all the torque specs for everything on page 1 of the thread and I got all the sealants I need. First time I’ve ever done this much y car engine so I can use guidance on which bolts need to have threadlocker and high don’t. I guess the tensioner and hpfp bolts should have a dab of threadlocker but I prefer not to on timing chain cover so I won’t potentially strip an impossible to reach bolthead the next time it needs to come off , like that bottom one that is in a ridiculously tight spot.

      Also I’m reinstalling my cam cradle with new bolts. I have the old gasket seal removed and surfaces prepped. I have the right anaerobic high temp sealant, I would just like an outline of how best to apply. I hear it should be about a 1/8 continuous bead, circle all bolt heads and avoid any oil channels. Is that right? The anaerobic doesn’t cure exposed to air so (a) does this mean bolt cam cradle on pretty soon after applying the sealant to the cradle - is there any wait time after applying bead or just slap it on? (B) once torqued down do I need to retorque 24 hours later once fully cured?

      I have the timing chain gasket but does this need any sealant too? I guess not as I only saw the old gasket when I took it off.
      Thanks!

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