Are you saying that it is 19 half links BETWEEN the two manufactured notches on each cam sprocket? I keep losing count as I didn't properly mark the exhaust cam notch mark. My timing belt broke, hence I had both cams removed (hence the avoidance of the cam locking tool).
When did this on my car it seemed like the cam lock held the exhaust cam in place while removing the tensioner bolt.
A breaker bar + a pipe to break it loose.
I don't see how that wouldn't move without the cam lock tool.
But that's just my thinking....
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The timing belt on my car broke. I removed the head and cams, and replaced all 16 valves. Since I have both cams out, I wouldn't need the cam locking tool. I would only need to connect the 2 cams together with the chain before placing them together back on the head. I was only inquiring about the number of links required between the two marks. I don't want to unbolt the VVT adjuster.
My replacement chain was just as tight as yours....no issue. The tensioner is there for when and if the chain stretches. As far as your links are concerned, there is a simple was to tell if your cams are timed correctly. Just put cylinder one on TDC and look at the cylinder 4 intake and exhaust cam lobes. If they are tin exactly the same position then you are timed correctly. I take a straight edge and lay it on the top of the head and measure the distance from the highest point of the lobes to the straight edge. They should be very close to one another. If they aren't, you are one tooth off....
both the old and new chains are the same. I got the 3 tensioner holes to line up now. What I want to verify is that the count goes something like this: you have the manufactured notch on the intake camshaft sprocket, 20 half-links in between, then the manufactured notch on the VVT camshaft sprocket?
I was concerned because I saw an earlier post that said 19 half-links (between both marks)
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Sheared the head off the polydrive bolt or just stripped the teeth? I stripped the teeth off mine so I just removed the intake cam and finagled everything out and back in. Added work of removing the cam cage but not that bad. Didn’t want to risk trying to drill the bolt out and damaging something else.
I Have a loud rattling noise coming from engine, I was thinking it is the cam chain tensioner, although it has been replaced 4 years ago. Is this normal you see on the video? Should there be pre tension, some kind of spring pushing tensioner upwards before oil pressure comes in? This video is after I pushed the tensioner down by hand, there was oil inside.
Also during higher revs the sound goes off, probably meaning that there is no enough pressure in tensioner to keep the chain tight during idle?
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If it's loud at idle and goes away with increased rpm then it's very likely a bad tensioner.
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Getting the Cam Chain/tensioner replaced while at my mechanic doing the timing belt/water pump and a bunch of other stuff. Apparently the bold holding in the tensioner broke. He said he could drill it out and so on however risk of metal shavings and potential down the road issues is possible. Best way would be to replace the Cam & Tensioner to do it properly. So thats what I ended up saying to do.
I just dont understand why VW would put such a small weak screw in that area? Put something thats not going to break and cause problems.
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Well its already done. Your probably right. the bolt holding the VVT. I think the bolt broke or something and he would need ot drill it out with the potential of having metal shavings inside the engine. so since the cam & im guessing the VVT are attached he needs to remove it in 1 part since the bolt snapped.
At least that was my understanding, so a new Cam & VVT were ordered and installed since I did not want to drill out the bolt with potential issues down the line.
Folks I’m getting ready to reassemble after replacing my intake cam, tensioner, hpfp, follower. I got all the torque specs for everything on page 1 of the thread and I got all the sealants I need. First time I’ve ever done this much y car engine so I can use guidance on which bolts need to have threadlocker and high don’t. I guess the tensioner and hpfp bolts should have a dab of threadlocker but I prefer not to on timing chain cover so I won’t potentially strip an impossible to reach bolthead the next time it needs to come off , like that bottom one that is in a ridiculously tight spot.
Also I’m reinstalling my cam cradle with new bolts. I have the old gasket seal removed and surfaces prepped. I have the right anaerobic high temp sealant, I would just like an outline of how best to apply. I hear it should be about a 1/8 continuous bead, circle all bolt heads and avoid any oil channels. Is that right? The anaerobic doesn’t cure exposed to air so (a) does this mean bolt cam cradle on pretty soon after applying the sealant to the cradle - is there any wait time after applying bead or just slap it on? (B) once torqued down do I need to retorque 24 hours later once fully cured?
I have the timing chain gasket but does this need any sealant too? I guess not as I only saw the old gasket when I took it off.