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    Thread: Who else is autocrossing their mk7 GTI? Video & build discussion please.

    1. Member
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      07-27-2017 06:40 PM #426
      Quote Originally Posted by E_Cannoli View Post
      Thank you. Considering I am only a novice at autocross, would the investment to 17" rims be worth it?
      You save $ with every set of tires you buy from here on out as soon as you buy 17's - that's my thinking.

      And if you're going to invest the time in attending autocross events and can afford "extreme performance summer" aka 200tw autocross-able street tires, do it. You'll have more fun and have a chance at being competitive, and they really are a huge leap up from all seasons. BUT, the tradeoff is 200tw tires wear out fast if driven on the street a lot, shouldn't be used in cold weather, and aren't the best in heavy rain/water conditions especially when they're worn down a bit. So having a daily set of all seasons and a separate autox set is really the way to go if you can swing it.

      If you just want 1 set of wheels/tires, you might go with a lesser tire like the Continental ExtremeContact Sport - still a summer tire and better than OEM all seasons, capable on track, but 340 treadwear so it'll last a lot longer than 200tw RE71Rs and the like.

      Used sets of lightweight 17x7.5 wheels do pop up on forums and FB groups from time to time, as do used autocross tires in 245/40-17.

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    3. 07-27-2017 06:51 PM #427
      Quote Originally Posted by glitronic View Post
      So having a daily set of all seasons and a separate autox set is really the way to go if you can swing it.

      If you just want 1 set of wheels/tires, you might go with a lesser tire like the Continental ExtremeContact Sport - still a summer tire and better than OEM all seasons, capable on track, but 340 treadwear so it'll last a lot longer than 200tw RE71Rs and the like.
      Good points.

      I live in NJ and will be getting a set of winter rims and tires this fall as well. If I add 17" autocross rims and tires, plus all seasons with my 18" rims I am definitely over my head!

      Hopefully, I find some lightweight used 17" rims in the near future. That would really help.

      Thanks!

    4. Member 20th#726's Avatar
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      07-28-2017 08:54 AM #428
      Quote Originally Posted by E_Cannoli View Post
      If I went to 17" are there any good brands that are more practical/ affordable then others?

      Thanks!
      You may consider looking at the Konig flow formed wheels and possibly the TSW rotary forged line for good low cost lightweight options. I run TSWs on my mK7 and Konigs on my MK1 (for the day it's ready to run)

    5. 07-28-2017 10:17 AM #429
      I have the video from my last event uploaded. The car is completely stock, minus an old set of 245/40/18 Rivals on GLI wheels. I figure that I still have a fair bit of driving improvement before I make any other changes.

      I'm also still playing with the camera location. I think I might try mounting it high on the windshield or roof, so I can have a good view of both sides of the car. What are people doing to combat wind noise?


    6. Member RacingManiac's Avatar
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      07-31-2017 08:43 AM #430
      Toledo Champ Tour was this past weekend. About probably 1/3 of the registered 2017 Nationals entrants were at this event so it was a pretty good rehearsal I guess for this year's Nationals. The car drove pretty well on a sweepers intensive and transition heavy course, especially now with my DA front struts back in. Though the course style really isn't a strong GS course.

      Ended up 3rd after 2 days of competition and on average about .6 sec off the lead per day on a 69 sec course. I need to find more pace but it was about as good as I've done at a Tour format event(2 courses, 3 runs per course).

      Sat:



      Sun:


      Results
      https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...61&oe=5A315074


      Pax ended up being 130 something out of 300, GS winner(2nd in 2016 Nats) is around 94, which is why I am guessing somehow the course isn't really GS friendly.

    7. 08-03-2017 03:01 PM #431
      This is an odd request, but does anyone have an extra RSB that I can borrow or buy for next week's Targa Southland. I wasn't able to get one shipped in time. I will be glad to pay for shipping or possibly pick up the bar if it's in the southeast.
      -James
      2017 GTI Sport, Night Blue, Autocross and track stuff coming soon

    8. Member RacingManiac's Avatar
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      08-07-2017 08:24 AM #432
      2nd consecutive weekend of National autocrossing, this time at the ProSolo at Oscoda. Small courses because the site really isn't that big, but pretty fun courses.

      Finished 3rd in class to the same cast of characters but much closer this time. 1-4 in GS is separated by less than .3 sec after 2 days. 2-4 is 0.033 sec.

      2 weekends in the row in trophy is a first. But wish it was higher position. Gave it my best shot though, was 2nd into my last right side run.
      Left


      Right(not actually the fastest, that run isn't on video but this is about 0.014 sec slower


      41st on Pax was also the best I've ever done in a National event...

    9. 08-16-2017 09:13 PM #433
      Hi all,

      Wanted to ask some others who have been autoxing/tracking their GTI's.

      I recently (May) did a track day and bought a set of EBC yellows for the front. Afterwards I noticed a "clunk" noise intermittently from the front end occurring intermittently going over bumps. After deducing it was related to braking I swapped out my yellows for the stock pads and the noise has been gone. Also looking at the pad it looks like there is some strange and uneven wear/ pieces missing.


      https://goo.gl/photos/NHXmstvkZXXXUoEr8

      https://goo.gl/photos/CbSyQVRkE2QCxKDC6

      https://goo.gl/photos/xFxSH9sUNPNnETks5

      So are these pads toast? I have another track day coming up in September and not sure I want to use these again, but also don't want to ruin my stock pads.


      Here's my car, running 17's and don't regret it!

      https://goo.gl/photos/dZHkhG2NWkpwSaQc6
      Last edited by yourfatherandhis2uncles; 08-16-2017 at 09:15 PM.

    10. Member RacingManiac's Avatar
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      08-21-2017 01:14 PM #434
      Good local event at Oscoda this weekend, ran almost a Match Tour style even for a combined Morning/Afternoon Saturday and a stand alone sunday. Got a 1st and a 2nd in GS

      Sat AM: https://youtu.be/cNuTLKHDNh4
      Sat PM: https://youtu.be/ZP9TLwvGmJ8

      Sun: https://youtu.be/7DBd8duSkUI


      On sunday though I got some weird issue going on. Half way through my first run my ESC light came on and my TPMS light started flashing and said ESC Error. I drove the subsequent runs like that and the car maintained ABS function but no ESC(um, not bad but disconcerting). Not fully sure if VAQ is working correctly.

      Scanned it with VCDS and got these codes in the ABS Module:
      0263 - Turn Rate Sensor
      C107D 29 [008] - Signal Implausible
      Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
      Freeze Frame:
      Fault Status: 00000001
      Fault Priority: 2
      Fault Frequency: 1
      Reset counter: 25
      Mileage: 81520 km
      Date: 2017.08.20
      Time: 09:35:21

      0268 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor
      C1079 29 [137] - Signal Implausible
      MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
      Freeze Frame:
      Fault Status: 00000001
      Fault Priority: 2
      Fault Frequency: 1
      Reset counter: 25
      Mileage: 81521 km
      Date: 2017.08.20
      Time: 09:49:19

      0302 - ESP Operation
      C1075 29 [008] - Signal Implausible
      Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
      Freeze Frame:
      Fault Status: 00000001
      Fault Priority: 2
      Fault Frequency: 1
      Reset counter: 25
      Mileage: 81520 km
      Date: 2017.08.20
      Time: 09:35:21


      And these under engine:
      2 Faults Found:
      17178 - Databus
      U1123 00 [047] - Received Error Message
      Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
      Freeze Frame:
      Fault Status: 00000001
      Fault Priority: 6
      Fault Frequency: 2
      Mileage: 81520 km
      Date: 2017.08.20
      Time: 09:35:21

      Engine speed: 3309.75 /min
      Normed load value: 56.9 %
      Vehicle speed: 57 km/h
      Coolant temperature: 98 °C
      Intake air temperature: 43 °C
      Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
      Voltage terminal 30: 13.964 V
      Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
      Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-ACC: Not active: although TSK passive
      Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Start and stop request: Set at stopping speed
      Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Bit 2: Not transmitted simultaneously
      Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Bit 3: Does not reactivate after DTC-induced shutdown
      Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Bit 4: Not active when limiter active
      Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Bit 5: Transmits no undefined signals
      Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Bit 6: Not active when main switch off
      Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Bit 7: Not active when driver braking
      Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Bit 8: Not active during the EPB emer. braking
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-ESP: no error
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-Deceleration controller: Available
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-TSK/ESP handshake: no error
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-Bit 1: no error
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-Bit 3: Not malfunction due to inaccurate engine torque
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-Bit 4: No indication of TSK message consistency error
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-Bit 6: Automatic engagement OK
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status: 4
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-Parking Brake: not active
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ACC: Not braking
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ESP: Not invoking TSK braking
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-Driver: Not braking
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-Hill descent control: passive
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ASR: no intervention
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-MSR: no intervention
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ADS: no intervention
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ABS: no intervention
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-EDL: no intervention
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ASP: no intervention
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-AWV2: No warning pressure
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-Bit 4: no intervention
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-Bit 11: passively cycled
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-Bit 12: passively cycled
      Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-Bit 13: Standstill not detected

      21302 - Implausible Data Received from ABS Control Module
      U0415 00 [039] - -
      Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
      Freeze Frame:
      Fault Status: 00000001
      Fault Priority: 2
      Fault Frequency: 1
      Mileage: 81521 km
      Date: 2017.08.20
      Time: 09:49:19

      Engine speed: 3446.50 /min
      Normed load value: 18.0 %
      Vehicle speed: 61 km/h
      Coolant temperature: 95 °C
      Intake air temperature: 45 °C
      Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
      Voltage terminal 30: 13.984 V
      Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
      Engine: operating status: PL
      ECU_STATE: SYN_ENG_IGK_ON
      Engine oil temperature: 102.0 °C
      Time since engine start: 518.7 s
      T_ES: 0 min
      Cruise control switch actuation-Main switch: not activated
      Cruise control switch actuation-Setting: not activated
      Cruise control switch actuation-Activation: not activated
      Cruise control switch actuation-Status: OK
      Cruise control switch actuation-Accelerate: not activated
      Cruise control switch actuation-Decelerate: not activated
      Cruise control switch actuation-Cancel: not activated
      Cruise control switch actuation-Main switch hardware: not activated
      Cruise control switch actuation-Coding: plausible
      Cruise control switch actuation-Limit function: not selected
      Cruise control switch actuation-Limit button: not activated
      Cruise control switch actuation-Main switch CAN: not activated
      Cruise control switch actuation-Large increment: not activated
      Cruise control switch actuation-Control component verified: Yes
      STATE_ERR_ABC_PRED: 11

      Readiness: 0000 0000


      And this under Steering:
      19204 - Databus
      U1123 00 [009] - Received Error Message
      Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
      Freeze Frame:
      Fault Status: 00000001
      Fault Priority: 6
      Reset counter: 25
      Mileage: 81521 km
      Date: 2017.08.20
      Time: 09:49:20

      Motor status: 02
      System status: Driving mode
      Supply voltage: 13.75 V
      Temperature: 63.0 °C
      KFC: 4B
      KFA: 00 04
      Environmental conditions: 7F
      uAdSensI_U1V2Filtered_gdu16: 1.20 V
      uAdSensI_U5VFiltered_xdu16: 0.00000 V
      uioUdNotFilt_xdu16: 14.00 V
      uAdSensI_SwitchedKl30_xdu16: 13.98 V
      NoInitCause_AsicSens: [0x00] ASC_CTRL_SAS_NO_ERR
      NoInitCause_RackPos_Rohwert: 00 00
      RP_VALCNTSAV: not activated
      RP_DIAGJOB: not activated
      RP_RPS: not activated
      RP_KMN_RACKPOS_SET: not activated
      RP_STARTUP: not activated
      RP_L2PLAUSI: not activated
      RP_INDEXPLAUSI: not activated
      RP_WHLSPDPLAUSI: not activated
      RP_RUKUCNTR: not activated
      RP_UNDERVOLT: not activated
      RP_CNTERR: not activated

      I cleared the code and my codriver running in the local Pro class ran the car and the light did not return, but he said he did notice a few instance the VAQ seems to react slower than normal. Booked an appointment to check this out at the dealer next week, but seems too close to Nats for comfort...

    11. Junior Member GTI&911's Avatar
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      08-22-2017 08:44 AM #435
      With these implausible signal I will say, bad contact, bad ground, loose plug. I hope they find it before National and by the way good luck at National.
      I hope that this year this is the GTI turn to win GS, no pressure.

      As for me since Bristol I did 3 event.
      July 23 with NCR 4th PAX http://ncrscca.com/ncrscca/sites/def...20chpt_pax.htm
      Aug 6 with Triad, 2nd PAX. http://www.auto-x.com/results/2017/2...nt%236_PAX.htm
      Aug 20 with THSCC 4th PAX http://www.thscc.com/autocross/event...%20vmp_pax.htm

      Link to videos.
      https://www.youtube.com/results?q=bo...11&sp=EgIIBFAU

    12. Member RacingManiac's Avatar
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      08-22-2017 12:30 PM #436
      I hope so, but not having messed with anything related to those I don't know. Being so close to Nats I am not sure even if things are broken I'd have time to fix them. Not much resources to pull on and looking on google search, similar faults were caused by faulty ABS module on a MK5. Either way this will cost pretty pennies....sigh...

    13. Member RacingManiac's Avatar
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      08-27-2017 10:37 PM #437
      ran the last local event before Nats at Toledo Express. The car ran without any issue today which I guess is just as puzzling. But it was pretty damn fast. I finished 2nd to my codriver again:

      Ken's 51.878


      My 52.373


      Ken's run was the fastest clean Street class car today, which is pretty ridiculous...

    14. Member dslinc's Avatar
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      08-27-2017 11:26 PM #438
      Good luck in Nats

      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
      3dlanes.com

    15. Junior Member
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      09-01-2017 05:57 PM #439
      This is from the 8th event in the OKC region of SCCA. I placed 1st in PAX which was the first time I have accomplished that; pretty happy guy here.

      I definitely need to improve upon being smooth with my turn-ins, but I'm getting better.

      I'm seriously considering making the jump to STX/STH next year. Depends if there is an official STH class... just not sure yet.

      2016 Golf GTI Autobahn - Manual
      Pure White
      PP, LP, DCC
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLEA1BnZtLo

    16. 09-05-2017 08:11 PM #440
      Quote Originally Posted by stingray2016 View Post
      This is from the 8th event in the OKC region of SCCA. I placed 1st in PAX which was the first time I have accomplished that; pretty happy guy here.

      I definitely need to improve upon being smooth with my turn-ins, but I'm getting better.

      I'm seriously considering making the jump to STX/STH next year. Depends if there is an official STH class... just not sure yet.

      I would love to hear about your cars setup? Do you have 17" Wheels?

    17. Junior Member GTI&911's Avatar
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      09-08-2017 06:02 PM #441
      Congratulation to RacingManiac for the 2nd place at the SCCA Solo National, he missed 1st by .205

    18. Member RacingManiac's Avatar
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      09-10-2017 05:29 PM #442
      Well that was Nats 2017. The car was working great and had to drive like hell to get there. If you have never been to Lincoln you probably won't know the OPR issue(Other People's Rubber). Having an entirely dry week(shocker) with 1300 cars autocrossing on 2 courses means there are a lot of rubber laid down. And despite them sweeping the courses with a street sweeper every night there are still lots out there. GS ran LAST heat of the last 2 days of the competition means we will have a lot of that. Too much in fact that we really weren't fully prepared for. Day one on the west course we had a very fast moving heat(we were barely getting 5 min between me and my codriver's run) with a tricky course means we were fighting a car that drove like there is an inch of rubber under the actual tires of the car(and there was!). 4th and 5th in GS after Day 1 and more than 8 tenth off the lead. My first run with the cleanest tire all afternoon on course ended up being what I stood on:



      Day 2 on the East course we recruited other people from our region to help using a electric multitool to scrape the rear tires between every run. East course also runs slower for whatever reason and that helped giving us more time to do that. Fast sweepers and long corners played into GTI's strength in being able to get on power early and hard to use that diff to our advantage and it showed. I ran the fastest GS time of the day to get into 2nd place while my codriver unfortunately coned away a 3rd place run to end up in 4th in GS. Ultimately I was 0.205 off Doug Rowse, who has now earned 5 jackets to his name.



      The time ultimately was good for 28th on PAX with the people that ran the same course order as me(around 330 people) and 172nd on PAX out of 1300 people. I am pretty happy with that. A better day one would probably help but hindsight is always 20/20 and we still drove our butts off with what we got.

    19. Member
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      09-11-2017 03:27 PM #443
      Congratulations! I was glued to those live timing results on sololive.

      Too bad the OPR was such an issue, but I'm glad everyone got dry runs at least.

    20. n00b
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      09-26-2017 08:23 PM #444
      I'm new to the group and haven't autocrossed in a long time. I just purchased a 2017 GTI Sport MT and am planning to get it set up to be at least divisionally competitive (NEDIV) in G Street over the winter. I do have several Nationals under my belt, but that was a while ago.

      One of the first things I will be looking at will be the rear sway bar and links. I know Strano is recommended for stock suspension, but I will be putting in Koni DA shocks fairly soon, so I need to look at the other options. One of the vendors on the site is advertising a 25mm hollow bar, which will be much lighter than the 26mm solid bar. What I don't know is how all the bars compare in stiffness compared to the OEM bar. Any info out there? What about on the end links?

      I've also noticed that everyone seems to be running a lot less toe-out in the front than what was common when I was last running Solo 2. Other than the hyper-responsive steering & tire wear on the street, what has changed since I was away?

    21. Member RacingManiac's Avatar
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      09-29-2017 08:51 AM #445
      Hey welcome to the group!

      Rear bar, stock rear bar IIRC is a 21 or 22mm hollow bar. Strano bar I think is similar size but solid. 25mm Hollow will be appreciably stiffer, but I find the car even with 26mm solid bar can probably still go stiffer. Additionally after some experiences this year driving with the stock front struts with the 26mm bar when I had the fronts rebuilt, you can use the 26mm bar with the stock setup fine, just needs to adjust driving a bit. These days I tend to recommend people going to the 034 Motorsport rear bar, which while less stiff(25mm solid) vs the H&R, it is adjustable(kinda rare) and I have had instance this year(wet event on really slick asphalt at PittRace Match Tour) where I wish I can soften the rear bar. The flexibility is probably useful IMO.

      Front toe. My car is a DD(2016 with almost 55k miles now), I went with 0 toe all around to still get some appreciable gain in shifting the car's balance vs the stock setup and also to get some acceptable degree of road tire wear and highway wandering. I think people still run toe out on the front but I am just not bothering with it at the moment.

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      09-29-2017 06:54 PM #446
      Thanks for the lead on the 034 bar. Being adjustable is useful indeed.

      For now at least, my car is not a DD, although that will change when my old car finally dies or the salt kills it. I actually have used 0 degree toe on this Mazda minivan for a long time with no bad results with either tire wear or excessively twitchy handling. Sure freaks the alignment shops out when I tell them what I want! I'll probably start at 0 degrees on the GTI and play with it from there.

      Congrats on the outstanding finish at Nationals this year! I'm jealous- best I ever did was 8th in my Gen 1 Rabbit.

    23. Member
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      10-02-2017 11:16 AM #447
      I have the Megan Racing 25.4mm hollow rear bar, and I think I could have gone stiffer as well. Also to note - this particular bar is sometimes listed as being adjustable but it IS NOT.
      I kept the stock endlinks and they seem sturdy enough - except that the stock endlinks don't have much extra bolt thread when using a swaybar with a thicker blade. I need to get some threadlocker on there after one nut gradually loosened. The endlinks use a TORX bolt, not allen, BTW.

    24. n00b
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      10-02-2017 08:36 PM #448
      Quote Originally Posted by glitronic View Post
      I have the Megan Racing 25.4mm hollow rear bar, and I think I could have gone stiffer as well. Also to note - this particular bar is sometimes listed as being adjustable but it IS NOT.
      I kept the stock endlinks and they seem sturdy enough - except that the stock endlinks don't have much extra bolt thread when using a swaybar with a thicker blade. I need to get some threadlocker on there after one nut gradually loosened. The endlinks use a TORX bolt, not allen, BTW.
      Thanks for the info on the Megan Racing bar. I'm still curious what the stiffness impact would be between the 25.4mm hollow and solid bars. There are several variables that could impact each bar's relative stiffness, so that info probably needs to probably come from the design engineer for each bar. Assuming that the hollow bar is PROBABLY not as stiff as the same diameter solid bar, having real adjust ability on the solid bar is a big plus. At least enough to offset for the weight loss benefit of the lighter hollow bar.

      The bolts for the endlinks are in shear, not tension, so you should be OK as long as you have a reasonable number of bolt threads engaged in the nuts. Ideally you want to have at least 3 full threads of the bolt visible and projecting beyond the nut. If the end of the bolt is recessed that amount or more into the nut, replace the bolts with longer ones. Threadlocker will not fix poor mechanical joint.

      I am looking at replacing the stock endlinks with the adjustable Emanuel links or something comparable. The adjust-ability of the links will allow me to take out any preload in the rear bar. When you are playing a game where thousandths of a second over a couple of days can determine who does or does not go home with a National Championship trophy, all legal tweaks and/or adjustments are fair game and necessary IMHO and experience.

    25. Junior Member GTI&911's Avatar
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      10-12-2017 09:28 AM #449
      Last weekend was the NCAC ( North Carolina Autocross Championship ). It was an excellent event lots of fast competitors. I did good, 1st in GS and 5th PAX for the event, Saturday i drove well, was 2 PAX for the day. Here a link to the results look for NCAC.

      http://ncrscca.com/results/2017-cape...eries-results/



    26. Member RacingManiac's Avatar
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      Current: 2018 ABM Civic Type R Was: 2016 NBM PP Golf GTI 6MT, 2010 DB GTI DSG 2 Door
      10-12-2017 05:42 PM #450
      Nicely done, some big names there too!

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