Because I believe in rescuing cars from neglectful owners.
And because being self sufficient is awesome.
And because if we all stayed away from believed TCL nightmares, none of us would drive anything. Only Miatas.
And finally, because I really want to get back into an AWD wagon. I've been kicking around the idea of a non-turbo Forester (or Prius) to replace my SVT Focus very soon BUT I'd really prefer something nice, quiet - a little less agricultural, if you will. I want something that doesn't rattle and won't wear me out when I have my 200 mile sales call days.
I don't want a turbo Surbaru. Good with that.
I KNOW I don't want a 2.7tt unless it's in a B5 S4, which will then make the headache worth it.
Would one of these with the 3.2 be worthwhile/somewhat reliable? Or should I look elsewhere generation/range wise?
I understand the possible carbon downfalls of direct injection and also do my own work for the most part.
Sorry to try to derail the thread....I'd just like to know more. Fantastic work so far.
The title of the thread is both a carry over form my old "reliable transportation Corrado" thread, and a joke based on the fact that things like this (and the Corrado) don't always have the best reputation when it comes to reliability. In the case of my old Corrado and this A6, neither car was neglected - in fact just the opposite, both had extensive maintenance records.
The 3.2 isnt the hot engine for the A6, and to me that's a good thing when it comes to "reliable transportation". Like the VR6 in the Corrado the 3.2 engine is common to multiple vehicles in the VAG fleet across multiple years. This is a bonus to me because it shows robustness against a large range of applications and thus driving styles (start/stop, city, highway, full load, light load, ect.). Further (at least I hope) that makes parts more readily available.
With regard to the carbon build up, the 3.2 in my A6 has made it >100k miles with out leaving the PO stranded. So if it's accumulated some carbon on the intake valves and it begins to cause problems for me, the worst case scenario is I have to remove the intake manifold and clean the valves a bit for another 100k miles of carbon build up before it becomes a problem again. I had the throttle body off over the weekend and removing the intake didnt look bad at all.
The more expensive, more worrisome failure (for me anyway) is timing chain guide wear. When purchasing this one I made a point to listen to the chains. Having not heard any tell tell chain noise, i'll continue to follow the PO's 5k oil change regimen and hope for the best.
Would one of these with the 3.2 be worthwhile/somewhat reliable? Time will tell. It's made it to 114k relatively problem free so far.
Last edited by corrado-correr; 07-22-2015 at 03:41 PM.
2003 BMW M3, 2017 Nissan Rogue, 2018 Lexus RX350.
1990 Mazda Miata, 1998 Land Rover Discovery, 2002 Chevrolet Blazer ZR2, 2013 VW GLI, 2011 Jeep Wrangler Sport, 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2014 Jeep Wrangler Willys Wheeler Edition.
Carbon buildup seems to be the only bad thing people say about the C6 3.2. It was a strong contender when I was looking for a car 3 years ago, but Avants don't come around that often and I found a B6 Passat 3.6 4motion wagon that I couldn't pass up. If you're looking for affordable and relatively reliable C-segment German cars, this should be on the top of your list.
B6 Passat 3.6 & 4motion Resource Thread
Now: 2008 VW Passat 3.6 4motion Wagon, 2013 Fiat 500 Sport
Then: 1987 Volvo 745GLE, 1989 Volvo 745GL, 1994 Volvo 940T, 1995 Infiniti G20, 2000 VW Passat 1.8T, 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Ed (x2), 2004 VW Golf TDI, 2006 Jetta TDI
Current Cars: 2018 BMW///M3 6 Speed Manual Yas Marina Blue over Sakhir Orange Leather | 2017 Volvo S90 Inscription T6 AWD | 2004 Infiniti FX35
Previous Cars: 2016 GLI DSG SEL | 2015 Touareg Lux TDI | 2014 GLI 6 Speed Manual Autobahn | 2012 Odyssey EX-L | 2010 Outback 6 Speed Manual | 2008 VW GTI 6 Speed Manual | 2008 BMW 328xi 6 Speed Manual | 2007 VW Rabbit 5 Speed Manual | 2001 Honda Accord
2. Give it a good rinse with a hose (not pressure-washer).
3. Clean up all crevices from leaves and heavy dirt.
4. Spray everything (including under the bonnet cover) with a water-based degreaser. I use Autoglym's "Engine and Machine Cleaner" but any would do.
5. Leave it for 5-10 minutes.
6. Use a brush and give the entire bay a good scrub.
7. Leave it for 5-10 minutes.
8. Use either a pressure-washer (set it on medium to low) or standard hose and rinse the entire bay, including the bonnet cover. Try not to point the spray onto alternator or any other bits which you're not too sure about.
9. Use a vinyl and rubber care product and spray it all over the engine bay for a nice shine. Either leave it as is or leave for a couple of minutes, then wipe it. Again, I use Autoglym because it works for me and I can't be arsed trying other brands.
Mothers VLR (I really like the Mothers VLR in general, good stuff, works well, not to harsh). I finished the plastics off with an interior protectant also made by Mothers. This is perhaps a more time consuming method and certainly not as thorough as the procedure J-Tim mentioned, but maybe i'm a ***** about it but i dont like spraying water on/in the engine bay.
Because I have an early build 2005 C6 A6 the MMI software is a bit older than the typical C6 A6. This means hands free calling only works using some wacky cellphone cradle/docking station built in to the armrest, and no Bluetooth music streaming. Turns out all of this is up-gradable to modern tech-interface-standards with an MMI software update. The process of which can be summed up as:
-Burn some bootleg .iso cd's.
-insert the cd's into the cd player.
-run the sw updates.
It's all expertly documented here: http://a6retrofit.com/ami-retrofit-a...sic-interface/.
I'm able to update the Bluetooth using "CD1" so that hands free calling now works through Bluetooth. Its great, really great. Moving to "CD2" i'm less lucky, I get the following error:
2015-09-21_08-48-42 by Raven, on Flickr
A few days of internetsing later I stumbled across the following TSD http://uberlame.com/a6_tsb/MMI/MMI%2...0procedure.pdf that explains my problem - early production vehicles need an interim upgrade before performing the standard update. Enter Zug. So now I find that "Zug 317" (unobtainium?) is required to go from 0750 to 1070 before loading "Zug 864" (readily available) which ultimately gets the software level at 4610.
Anyone got a hook up on "Zug 317"?
Last edited by corrado-correr; 09-21-2015 at 09:52 PM.
I love a bit of standard maintenance. Odometer is currently at 116k. I did plugs, 5w 40 pentosin synthetic, oil filter, and an air filter.
Since I've had the car the first start of the day has always required extended cranking time before the engine will kick over. I noticed that if I key on for some time before starting the crank time is reduced but still abnormally long. Hot re-start is great, no problems. I thought I might throw a new fuel filter at it just in case, and sure enough the long cranking times are completely resolved. Success!
It's worth mentioning the Audi quick connect fittings at the fuel filter were a delight to work with. Never before have I replaced a fuel filter with such ease. He's a picture of the old filter.
I've been running with the DRL's disabled. I dislike the standard dim yellow DRL's, but with winter coming and Michigan weather turning grey I had the idea that replacing the DRL bulb with an LED bulb might look sweet. This turned into a bit more work than I thought it would be. Despite the 1156 bulb being sold as CANbus-error-free it still needs a resistor, without the resistor it does the whole hyper flash thing. So here's what the bulb looks like and the resistor:
The whole air box needs to come out to access the back of the headlight assembly on the right side. Also, I picked up a variety pack of beers from the Alaskan brewery and I have to say it's not nearly as good as years past. Also the included pumpkin ale was disgusting (like throw up in my mouth, rinse with soap disgusting). Do not recommend.
Of course the tabs were busted on the rear cover. So I had to order a new one. Spendy, but at least it was available separate form the entire headlight assembly.
The resistors get hot to the touch when the lights are on. So even though they’d fit just fine, you don’t want to just stuff them inside the headlight housing. I found a nice place on the headlight assembly next to the HID ballast for a bracket to hold the resistor pack. Step one to any good bracket is to build a CAD (cardboard aided design) model.
I traced the CAD model out onto a bit of aluminum stock that I picked up from the local hardware store. And then cut/bent/drilled them in the vice.
The resistor pack will be pop riveted on to the bracket and the bracket will mount to the headlight assembly using a push type plastic fender liner fastener. Here’s what they look like before a coat of flat black paint.
And installed – I’m stoked at how well they turned out.
Finally, here’s some pictures of before/during/after/on/off of the light bulbs.
Last edited by corrado-correr; 10-21-2015 at 08:41 PM.
Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward. Whoever cannot take care of himself without that law is both. For a wounded man shall say to his assailant, "If I Die, You are forgiven. If I Live, I will kill you." Such is the Rule of Honor.
hey lets not throw around the word reliable....
for the long cranking those are notorious for crank position sensors failing.
also because where the coolant bottle is and how tight the back of the motor is to work on, the wires can get chaffed for the crank sensor.
I had a customer who had one that when it turned 140,000 miles he tried to go 140mph when it ticked over.
stretched the timing chains and totaled the car.
Last edited by fastinradford; 10-21-2015 at 03:49 PM.
smiles per gallon in a tdi rabbit are unreal
In for updates! Enjoyed reading your Corrado thread.
There's quite a few of these for sale locally, some with high-ish kms for dirt cheap.
Past: 94 Jetta, 89 Accord (beater), 97 Jetta GT, 91 Mazda 626 (beater), 02 Audi A4, 07 Civic (commuter), 06 BMW 330i, 12 GTI, 96 Ls1 Swapped E36, 2013 MT Focus
It is a shame because aside from the oil consumption issue it was a brilliant car. No CELs during ownership or unscheduled services. Great in the snow, really practical (A German Shepherd will love the back in an Avant) and plenty fast. Even in Prestige trim the handling was not too bad for a porky, AWD station wagon with the engine hanging out the front.
The "oil consumption procedure" that the dealer performed did not help much and IIRC the car would have needed new pistons and rings. An independent mechanic confirmed the engine would need a partial rebuild (I cannot remember exactly what was stated) so they traded it in for an A7 TDI.