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    Thread: Vintage utility trailer project AKA something new to obsess over

    1. Member boraIV's Avatar
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      08-02-2016 12:10 PM #51
      Quote Originally Posted by odj View Post


      Is he welding galvanized metal without a respirator?

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    3. Banned ChillOutPossum's Avatar
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      08-02-2016 12:24 PM #52
      Quote Originally Posted by boraIV View Post
      Is he welding galvanized metal without a respirator?
      It's not a big deal for the small amount of welding he did.

    4. Member Rob Cote's Avatar
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      08-02-2016 12:58 PM #53
      neato
      Quote Originally Posted by Hudsone View Post
      No one knows what and where I have to go to them?

    5. Member odj's Avatar
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      08-02-2016 01:16 PM #54
      Quote Originally Posted by boraIV View Post
      Is he welding galvanized metal without a respirator?
      Quote Originally Posted by GoHomePossum View Post
      It's not a big deal for the small amount of welding he did.
      Yeah, stay out of the plume and you're fine.

      Quote Originally Posted by Rob Cote View Post
      neato
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    6. Member boraIV's Avatar
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      08-02-2016 01:23 PM #55
      Quote Originally Posted by odj View Post
      Yeah, stay out of the plume and you're fine.



      Interesting. Everything I've ever heard says not to weld galvanized without a respirator. Not even a little bit. But that's not my profession either so I don't know.

    7. Member odj's Avatar
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      08-02-2016 01:30 PM #56
      Quote Originally Posted by boraIV View Post
      Interesting. Everything I've ever heard says not to weld galvanized without a respirator. Not even a little bit. But that's not my profession either so I don't know.
      I had no idea either before I started, so I read up on it. "Stay out of the plume" was the consensus.

      The first line of defense in dealing with zinc oxide fumes is welder training. Welders should be taught -- even when welding
      uncoated materials -- to keep their heads out of the fume plume and to position themselves relative to the air flow around
      themselves so fumes and dust do not collect inside their welding shields. If a welder finds white dust inside his welding
      shield when welding galvanized products, he is not positioning himself properly. When welding galvanized products that
      have thin, uniform coatings and the process is gas-shielded MIG or flux core, the fumes generated are sparse and the
      shielding gas blows them away from the welder; this is frequently sufficient to avoid metal fume fever without further action.
      sauce
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      08-02-2016 01:33 PM #57
      Quote Originally Posted by odj View Post
      Here's a teaser...

      BTW, since nobody guessed it - that metal thing is a gasket for EGR standoff for a MK3 VW 2.0 ABA.
      I was going to guess T3 turbo oil drain flange gasket. But a lot of those have square holes.

    9. Member odj's Avatar
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      08-05-2016 01:23 PM #58
      Oontz oontz oontz oontz...

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      08-05-2016 01:25 PM #59
      5x120 trailer hub?

    11. Member odj's Avatar
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      08-05-2016 01:31 PM #60
      Quote Originally Posted by Gitcha Sum View Post
      5x120 trailer hub?
      Nah it's 5x114.3/5x4.5. Gotta mill the bolt holes this weekend.
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      08-05-2016 02:12 PM #61
      Quote Originally Posted by odj View Post
      Oontz oontz oontz oontz...
      ]
      Ugh. There was a kid in highschool named "Migz", he would wear old lady fit over sunglasses and walk around making techno noises with his mouth. Incredible douchebag.

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      08-06-2016 03:43 PM #62
      Quote Originally Posted by odj View Post
      Nah it's 5x114.3/5x4.5. Gotta mill the bolt holes this weekend.
      I vote mill a bimmer pattern. All trailers are 5 on 4.5. What fun's that.

    14. Member odj's Avatar
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      08-08-2016 12:10 PM #63
      To rewind a bit, I realized when I went to fit the wheels that the new rimzo's I picked up would most definitely not fit the trailer hubs. The wheels have a center bore (pilot, in Trailer-speak) of 2.95", whereas the hub center bore is 3.268".

      In looking at the hubs, there was not enough "meat" on them to take the required material off. I couldn't return the wheels, and the biggest center bore I could find on etrailer was 3.19", and IIRC those were 14" wheels.

      Anyhow, I approached my cousin Ken at Mink Hollow Machine Services to see if he could help me out. He does a lot of prototype work, and is just the world's nicest guy, so he agreed to give me a hand.

      We (Ken mainly) set out to get specs from the hubs to input into the design in Mastercam. I got a huge kick out of the use of calipers, bore gauges, contour gauges, and other rather expensive equipment to gather precise data from a rather imprecise cast/machined hub from the sixties.

      I don't think I ever gathered the name of this machine, but using it in conjunction with a very flat piece of granite, gave us the ability to accurately measure the distance from the hub's wheel mating surface to the center raised portion.



      And the bore gauge is an awesome piece of equipment.



      After Ken got the basic design up in Mastercam, we loaded some 6" scrap Al in the lathe, and started turning it.

      Cutting the back side:



      We had to machine jaws specifically to use for this piece to machine the front side:



      And, blammo - we have our general shape.



      We went through multiple iterations of dimensions before we got to this point, and Ken being the awesome trooper that he is was up with me 'til 1:30 Thursday morning getting the fit just right.

      The pieces were super pretty after lathing.







      (small scratches were from fitting)



      I headed back up to the shop on Sunday, and we got to work on the mill. Again, fixtures had to be machined to ensure a perfect fit for our perfect spacers



      Aaaand, the final product:







      ARP studs and Ford Racing lugs were just absolutely necessary

      You can see here how the casting was machined crooked on the hubs, which is what made finding the perfect dimensions and offsets a challenge.



      After we finished everything up, I rushed back to the house and got everything ready for a final mock-up:















      I'm hoping to drop the bed off at the galvanizer's place this week.
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    15. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      08-08-2016 12:49 PM #64
      This is currently one of my favorite threads! Love your work.

      Chris
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      08-08-2016 02:27 PM #65
      It's called a height gage.
      Quote Originally Posted by Hudsone View Post
      No one knows what and where I have to go to them?

    17. Member odj's Avatar
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      08-08-2016 06:57 PM #66
      Quote Originally Posted by GoHomePossum View Post
      Ugh. There was a kid in highschool named "Migz", he would wear old lady fit over sunglasses and walk around making techno noises with his mouth. Incredible douchebag.
      LOL. His name wasn't Miguel Migs, was it?

      Quote Originally Posted by Gitcha Sum View Post
      I vote mill a bimmer pattern. All trailers are 5 on 4.5. What fun's that.
      man... we actually thought about machining new hubs at one point. I already had the wheels for 5x4.5 though so that pretty much sealed the deal

      Quote Originally Posted by Crispyfritter View Post
      This is currently one of my favorite threads! Love your work.

      Chris
      Thanks Chris, appreciate it man

      Quote Originally Posted by Rob Cote View Post
      It's called a height gage.
      Duh... that makes sense. Thanks
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    18. Member odj's Avatar
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      08-11-2016 09:45 PM #67
      I got the trailer prepped for galvanization earlier this week, and in the process decided that I'd rather keep the end plates bolt on. So, I welded some vertical bars to the cross braces. I ended up removing the rivnuts since they'd just get all gooped up with galvanization if the guys there didn't plug them with something. You'll notice that the bolt holes don't line up very well. It annoys the hell out of me, but that's just reason for me to buy a decent centering punch here in the near future... and some better drill bits... and a drill press...

      *sigh*



      After the level of effort and precision that went into making the spacers - and the opportunity to work with someone so focused on details and accuracy - I feel like some of the earlier work on this project is pretty clumsy and loose. I was joking with my buddy Justin today that it's a world of difference between micrometers and calipers and my usual tape measure and things-that-are-the-right-size method of measurement and repeatability.

      Anyways... I dropped the bed off at Baltimore Galvanizing today. The guys have been really easy to deal with, and both friendly and helpful. I should have it back by Monday at the latest. They're going to drill some holes through the square tube "uprights" I bult to allow for venting.

      When I got home, I went through all of the nuts/bolts/washers/rivnuts that I used in the mock-up, and ordered stainless replacements for the remaining non-stainless bits, as well as some extra shiz. Over a hundred dollars at McMaster-Carr later, and I should have a big ol' package of metal bits arriving at my doorstep.



      I also got out and installed a new hitch-ball-latch-thingy and a safety chain.





      I'm getting so close to the end of this project that I can taste it... It's hell just trying to stay patient.
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    19. Member odj's Avatar
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      08-17-2016 07:36 AM #68
      I picked up the bed from the galvanizer's yesterday. I have mixed feelings.

      The finish is a bit blotchy, and you can see where they had to sand down some spots and hit it with cold galvanizing touch up. Not a huge deal, and I hope it evens out after a while. Black marks are from loading it up in the truck.



      Certain parts look pretty good.



      The guys did warn me that the metal could warp a bit, but I wasn't quite ready for the extent to which it did so.

      The bed floor is wavy.



      And the whole structure tweaked quite a bit.



      Some of the bolt holes are going to be a pain in the ass to get realigned.



      And there's a big blob of solid goo where the wheels are going to sit. I'll have to grind that down and hit it with some touch up paint.



      Like I said, I have mixed feelings. I'm happy to have the whole thing one color, and I'm sure it'll take a really long time for this thing to rust again, but between the bed tweaking like it did and some of the finish issues, I'm a bit annoyed.

      I spent some time last night getting the bed bolted down to the frame. It took some work but it's on there solid and the bed has flattened out slightly. I'm going to have to take some time to try and realign some bolt holes though.
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    20. 08-17-2016 08:43 AM #69
      If I were you, I'd be pissed. That's a sub-par job IMO.

    21. 08-17-2016 08:52 AM #70
      I love the hub adapters, those are pretty cool! And I love the process, I wish I knew someone who had those capabilities..I'd love to just watch for a day.

      If you want a set of transfer punches for future hole locating, I use a cheap-o harbor freight set all the time and they still mark pretty well.

      http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piec...-set-3577.html

      That sucks about the galvanizing, I agree with Chazwozza on it seeming like a sub-par job. Although I've never had anything galvanized so I'm not sure what to expect.

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      08-17-2016 09:13 AM #71
      I've never had sheet metal galvanized (only large parts like beams etc) so I can't say if that level of warping is typical. But galvanizing can have a blotchy appearance....the thing is, after it weathers and oxidizes some the finish will even out.

      If you have changed your mind and want to paint it, now is your chance. For best results painting galvanized products needs to happen within 3 days of outdoor exposure after the galvanizing was done.

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      08-17-2016 09:42 AM #72
      Subscribing!

      I love the suspension setup on the trailer, definitely unique but functional.

    24. Member odj's Avatar
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      08-17-2016 09:46 AM #73
      Quote Originally Posted by Chazwozza View Post
      If I were you, I'd be pissed. That's a sub-par job IMO.
      I'm trying not to be pissed. I think it looks like sh*t. Seeing it again this morning reinforces my thoughts.

      Go with the cheap guys, get a cheap job. I swear that every time I try to save money I get f*cked in the process.

      It's a bit on me though - I didn't give it a very thorough look-over when I picked it up. It was hot as sh*t, super sunny, and I was in a rush to get to work. So I had them load it up and went on my way.

      Quote Originally Posted by Harrison. View Post
      I love the hub adapters, those are pretty cool! And I love the process, I wish I knew someone who had those capabilities..I'd love to just watch for a day.

      If you want a set of transfer punches for future hole locating, I use a cheap-o harbor freight set all the time and they still mark pretty well.

      http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piec...-set-3577.html

      That sucks about the galvanizing, I agree with Chazwozza on it seeming like a sub-par job. Although I've never had anything galvanized so I'm not sure what to expect.
      The most fun part of building the adapters was just watching Ken work. He's such a pro. It was really awesome. (That's part of what pisses me off even more about the bed. Everything else has come out really well).

      Thanks for the link to the punches. I'm going to order me a set

      Quote Originally Posted by GoHomePossum View Post
      I've never had sheet metal galvanized (only large parts like beams etc) so I can't say if that level of warping is typical. But galvanizing can have a blotchy appearance....the thing is, after it weathers and oxidizes some the finish will even out.

      If you have changed your mind and want to paint it, now is your chance. For best results painting galvanized products needs to happen within 3 days of outdoor exposure after the galvanizing was done.
      My buddy is trying to convince me to paint it. I've gotta noodle it a bit before I decide what I'm going to do. I'm also considering rebuilding the bed from scratch. We'll see...
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      08-17-2016 10:51 AM #74
      A little warping would be expected, they however trashed that thing....Really no way to fix it either since it's all together. Maybe a couple of saw horses and some pipe clamps.....and some muscle.

      I think that you'll end up doing a new box on your own though. Knowing your projects. However the finish will "chill out" a bit after being in the weather. However I hate galvanized finishes personally. And you really have to be careful working with that stuff, grinding and welding it can poison you.

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      08-17-2016 11:00 AM #75
      Do eet. Paint it! Color match the 135 on the outside and bedliner the inside. Maybe black or silver fenders.

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