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    Thread: I put a 1990 1.8L 8V into a 1958 Volvo. But can't figure out what wires to give power to start it.

    1. Semi-n00b
      Join Date
      Aug 11th, 2015
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      17
      07-05-2016 10:07 AM #1
      Hey Vortex,

      Its been a while.....

      I am working on this 1958 Volvo 444. I am putting this 1.8 L VW engine in sideways and so far I have mounted everything and its all in place. But what I need to achieve is figure out what the 5 wires off the end of the harness by the Digifant II ECU need to be connected to so I can crank that starter while I have fuel pressure and have all my injectors spray and my spark plugs fire.

      I looked on here for the wiring diagrams and it was evident I needed the holy grail.... Bentley manual.

      Anyways,

      Lets just get right to it.



      Here is more photos of the car:

      http://imgur.com/a/l1skI#12

      Here are the photos of the wiring harness physically:





      Here is the computer/ecu/PCM/whatever you want to correct me on it is:



      Here is the hall ignition control unit:




      Here is a photo of the wiring diagram I am trying to decipher.




      You can see at the top I have written R/G is 50, R/Y is 34, W/R is T1x, Bk/Y is Digifant control Relay Pin 87, R/Bk = 42.

      So the question is. What am I going to do to those six wires so that when I turn the key to start everything will run and be powered in the order that it should be.
      Last edited by goanslow; 07-05-2016 at 10:22 AM.

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    3. Member fopeano's Avatar
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      86 16v Coupe project, 00 GLI VR6 Track/Sunny Day Beast, 05 P71 New Daily, Rotten 99 Accord Spare
      07-05-2016 10:05 PM #2
      The connector you're showing is where the Engine/ECU harness connects to the secondary engine harness that goes inside to the fuse panel.

      -The red wire with white stripe is the o2 sensor heater power supply wire.

      -The red wire with yellow stripe is the for the ground control side of the fuel pump relay. The ECU uses this wire to turn the fuel pump on and and off.

      -The red wire with green stripe is the a starting signal (power) that just tells the ECU that the engine is actively cranking.

      -The black wire with yellow stripe is the main ECU power supply. It normally comes from the ECU relay.

      -The solid red wire is the fuel injector power supply, which is supposed to be on whenever the ECU relay is on.

      If you really want to know your harness, you can look in my current build thread which involves a complete rework of CE2 Digi 2 engine harnesses:
      https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...NA-Oil-Pan-Etc
      Last edited by fopeano; 07-05-2016 at 10:08 PM.
      I used my 6 years of Mk2 hobbyist training to become an auto tech in 2005, but that makes you not want to work on your car as much. I'm also a VR6 noob in 2018.
      YouTube channel of my cars, blown up cars from work, and some of the more interesting work I've done

    4. Semi-n00b
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      07-06-2016 10:23 AM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by fopeano View Post
      The connector you're showing is where the Engine/ECU harness connects to the secondary engine harness that goes inside to the fuse panel.

      -The red wire with white stripe is the o2 sensor heater power supply wire.

      -The red wire with yellow stripe is the for the ground control side of the fuel pump relay. The ECU uses this wire to turn the fuel pump on and and off.

      -The red wire with green stripe is the a starting signal (power) that just tells the ECU that the engine is actively cranking.

      -The black wire with yellow stripe is the main ECU power supply. It normally comes from the ECU relay.

      -The solid red wire is the fuel injector power supply, which is supposed to be on whenever the ECU relay is on.

      If you really want to know your harness, you can look in my current build thread which involves a complete rework of CE2 Digi 2 engine harnesses:
      https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...NA-Oil-Pan-Etc
      You sure know your harness! That mitchell diagram that you have and you are using. Could you please send me a photo of it to colincorreia at G M aIL dot com

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    6. Semi-n00b
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      07-06-2016 11:15 AM #4
      Look at this breakdown as well.

      Quote Originally Posted by Seax_Smith View Post
      Fleshed out one of my cheat sheets. Thought it might be useful.

      Main Electrical System (gasoline, except 16-valve), p. 171-182.
      1990 Jetta German Production.
      1990-1992 Golf Jetta, Mexico Production.
      From the Bentley Current Flow Diagrams, 172-4.


      IMPORTANT NOTES: Read these BEFORE you damage your car.

      The the small female connectors within the harness plugs / sockets are somewhat fragile and easily damaged. When fabricating test harnesses, use VW part number N 17 457 2 for the corresponding male pins to avoid damaging the connector.

      (# / #) is current track / page
      {#} reference to this list, i.e. Digifant ECU pin number.
      [Internal Note]

      The 25 Pin Digifant II Connector by Pin Number:


      ECU Pin 1:
      (65 / 174) Starter Power: Red / Green → connector T6c/3 → fuse-relay panel plug F/5 → thru internal connection path #1 in the fuse-relay panel (65, 57 / 174) → G1/12 Red / Black → pin 1 on coil.

      ECU Pin 2:
      (76 / 174) Oxygen Sensor: Green → connector Tb3/1 (O2 Sensor plug) → black → O2 Sensor. [MINE: Black: #1 on O2 Sensor.]

      [NOTE: Green between ECU pin 2 and connector Tb3/1 is the O2 signal wire and is black between T3b/1 and the O2 Sensor. T3b/1-3 is the O2 sensor plug and socket connection. This wire is also shielded by the black cable on the harness side. This shielding is one of the head grounds. (See: 75, 76 / 174).

      ECU Pin 3:
      (72 / 174) Fuel Pump: Red / Yellow → T6c/2 → (34 / 173) Red / Yellow → fuse-relay panel plug G1/3 → internal connection → Fuel Pump Relay pin 3/85 (34 / 173).

      [NOTE: Tc6/1-6 is a 6x connector found near the ECU and Hall Ignition Unit.]

      ECU Pin 4:
      (69 / 174) Knock Sensor: Yellow → T3g/1. The wiring on the knock sensor side of the plug/socket is sealed and not accessible. [MINE: Brown: Knock Sensor pin 1.]

      [NOTE: T3g/1-3 is Knock Sensor plug / socket. Yellow between T3g/1 and ECU pin 4 is shielded by the black cable on the harness side. This shielding goes to ECU pin 7. (See: 67-9 / 174).]

      ECU Pin 5:
      (68 / 174) Knock Sensor: Black → T3g/2. The wiring on the knock sensor side of the plug/socket is sealed and not accessible.
      [MINE: White: Knock Sensor pin 2.]

      [NOTE: T3g/1-3 is Knock Sensor plug / socket. Black between T3g/ and ECU pin 5 is shielded by the black cable on the harness side. This shielding goes to ECU pin 7. (See: 67-9 / 174).]

      ECU Pin 6:
      (65 / 174) Sensor Grounds: Brown / White →
      A. Hall Sender Brown / White pin 1/-, &
      B. Coolant Temp Sensor [CTS] Brown / White pin 2, &
      C. Air Flow Sensor Potentiometer Brown / White pin 4, &
      D. T2u/1 Brown / White pin 1.
      T2u/1-2 is Throttle Switches plug / socket

      [NOTE: There are four wires factory-fused together which comprise this bundle. The bundle and fused splices are contained inside the Digifant II harness. All four sensor grounds go to pin 6 of the Digifant ECU.]

      ECU Pin 7:
      (67 / 174) Knock Sensor Shield: Unspecified Color → T3g/3.
      [MINE: Clear on Knock Sensor.]

      [NOTE: T3g/1-3 is Knock Sensor plug / socket. See: ECU pins 4 & 5.]

      ECU Pin 8:
      (63 / 174) Hall Sender Positive: Red / Black → Hall Sender pin 3/+.

      ECU Pin 9:
      (68 / 174) Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Blue / White → Air Flow Sensor Potentiometer pin 1.

      ECU Pin 10:
      (71, 66 / 174) Coolant Temperature Sensor: Brown / Green → CTS pin 1.

      ECU Pin 11:
      (72, 65 / 174) Throttle Switches (aka Idle / WOT Switch): Red / Blue → T2u/2.
      [MINE: Red / Greenish]

      [NOTE: T2u/1-2 is Throttle Switches plug / socket.

      ECU Pin 12:
      (80 / 174) Injector Power: Brown / Yellow → T2d/2.

      [NOTE: T2u/1-2 is the fuel rail plug / socket.]

      ECU Pin 13:
      (73 / 174, 10 / 172) Ground, Battery: Brown → direct battery ground.

      [NOTE: This should be upgraded with fresh 14 gauge wire and new terminal ends.]

      ECU Pin 14:
      (80 / 174) Power from Digifant Control Unit Relay: Black / Yellow → T6c/4 → Black / Yellow → use-relay panel plug G1/10 → Digifant Relay 6/87.

      [NOTE: The Digifant control Unit Relay is relay #3. T6C/1-6 is a 6x connector found near the ECU and Hall Ignition Unit.

      ECU Pin 15:
      [empty slot].

      ECU Pin 16:
      (75 / 174) A/C Compressor Signal: Green → T2m/2 where it terminates in the current flow diagram.

      [NOTE: T2m/1-2 Is a white connector at the fire wall below the brake booster. This is the compressor/ECU pin 16 connection.
      It bumps up the idle speed when the AC/Defrost is on.
      Green wire goes to the AC compressor. There is often, but not always a blue wire associated with connector T2m/1-2.]

      ECU Pin 17:
      (70 / 174) Air Flow Sensor Potentiometer: Blue / Black → Air Flow Sensor Potentiometer pin 3.

      ECU Pin 18:
      (62 / 174) Hall Sender Neutral: Green / White → Hall Sender pin 2/0.


      ECU Pin 19:
      (74 / 174) ECU Reference Ground: Brown/Black → Head Ground.

      [NOTE: This is one of the head grounds designated with a "circled 18" in the current flow diagrams. The Bently refers to it as an engine block ground, which it is, but these wires are fastened to / grounded on the cylinder head.]

      ECU Pin 20:
      (78 / 174) Malfunction Light/Switch: White / Red → T6c/6 → T1x, where it terminates in the current flow diagram.

      [Note: T6C/1-6 is a 6x connector found near the ECU and Hall Ignition Unit. T1x is a single connector found near ignition coil.

      ECU Pin 21:
      (69 / 174) Air Flow Sensor Potentiometer: Blue / Red → Air Flow Sensor Potentiometer pin 2.

      ECU Pin 22:
      (79 / 174) Idle Stabilizer Valve: Yellow → ISV pin 1.
      [NOTE: Middle slot in connector is open.]

      ECU Pin 23:
      (78 / 174) Malfunction Light/Switch: White → ISV pin 3.
      [NOTE: Middle slot in connector is open.] [MINE looks Tan.]

      ECU Pin 24:
      [empty slot].

      ECU Pin 25:
      (62 / 174) Ignition Control Unit: Green → Hall Ignition Control Unit pin 6.

    7. Semi-n00b
      Join Date
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      07-06-2016 11:15 AM #5
      There is also this

      Quote Originally Posted by Seax_Smith View Post
      Associated Connectors, Etc.:
      T3b/1-3 is O2 Sensor plug / socket.
      T3b/1 is Green signal wire (black on O2 sensor side)
      T3b/2 is Black/Brown to head ground.
      T3b/3 is Red/White → T6c/1 → fuse-relay panel plug G1/8 (38 / 173) → Internal connections in fuse-relay panel → Fuse #18 and fuse-relay panel plug M/2 Red /Yellow → T2p2 → Red /Yellow at the fuel pump. [NOTE: there are two Red / Yellows going from T2p/2 to the Fuel Pump.]

      T6C/1-6 is a 6x connector found near the ECU and Hall Ignition Unit.
      T6C/1 is between Red / White O2 Sensor plug pin 3 and Red / White fuse-relay panel plug G1/8. [See: T3b/3.]
      T6C/2 is between Red / Yellow ECU pin 3 and fuse-relay panel plug G1/3.
      T6C/3 is between Red / Green ECU pin 1 and Red / Green fuse-relay panel plug F/5.
      T6C/4 is between Black / Yellow ECU pin 14 and fuse-relay panel plug G1/10 → Digifant Control Unit Relay 6/87.
      T6C/5 is between Red / Black fuse-relay panel plug Z1 and Red positive connection at the injector rail plug / socket, T2d1.
      T6C/6 is between White / Red ECU pin 20 and T1x (T1x = Single connection near ignition coil) [NOTE: See ECU pin 20].

      T3g/1-3 is Knock Sensor plug / socket.
      T3g/1 is Yellow → ECU Pin 4
      T3g/2 is Black → ECU Pin 5
      T3g/3 is Unspecified color (black outer cable), shielding T3g/1 Yellow and T3g/2 Black → ECU Pin 7.

      T2u/1-2 is Throttle Switches plug / socket.
      T2u/1 Brown/White → ECU Pin 6
      [Note: Brown/White @ ECU pin 6 → connects inside the Digifant II harness with Brown/Whites from AFM pin 4, Hall Sender pin 1, Throttle Switches Pin 1 (T2u/1), CTS pin 2 → ECU Pin 6. ["circled 94" bundle]
      T2u/2 Red/Black → ECU Pin 11.

      T2d/1-2 is Fuel Rail plug / socket.
      T2d/1 Red → T6c/5 → Red/Black → Z1 @ fuse / relay panel
      T2d/2 Brown / Yellow → ECU Pin 12.

      T2m/1-2 is AC Compressor wire(s), white connector at the fire wall below the brake booster.
      T2m/1 Blue ? →
      T2m/2 Green → ECU pin 16 [Other side not shown in current flow diagram.]

      "Circled 94" Is a wire inside the Digifant II harness with several factory fused splices. It connects ECU pin 6 to CTS pin 2, Throttle Switches Pin 1 (T2u/1), Hall Sender Pin 1 and AFM Pin 4.

      "Circled 18" Head Grounds: are specified in the current flow diagrams as "engine block ground". More specifically, they are the 'head grounds' which can be so troublesome.

      ECU pin 19 Brown / Black, the shielding around the O2 sensor wire (T3b/1) Black, O2 sensor harness side socket T3b2 Brown / Black.

      Head Grounds:
      A. O2 Sensor: T3b/2 is Black/Brown to head ground. [associated with ECU pin 2]
      B. Knock Sensor: T3g/3 is Unspecified color to head ground. [associated with ECU pin 2]
      [unsure of this]
      C. Pin 19 (74) Brown / Black: direct head ground.

      Battery Grounds:
      ECU Pin 13.
      (174 / 73, 172 / 10) Brown → Battery Ground.

      [NOTE] This should be seriously checked and replaced with new connectors and good 14 gauge.

      CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor):

      CTS Pin 1
      (174 / 66, 71): Brown/Green → ECU Pin 10.

      CTS Pin 2
      (174 / 66): Brown/White → connects inside the Digifant II harness with Brown/Whites from AFM pin 4, Hall Sender pin 1, Throttle Switches Pin 1 (T2u/1) → ECU Pin 6. ["circled 94" bundle.]

      Ignition Coil

      Ignition Coil Pin 1
      (174 / 59): Red/Black → Red/Black @ Pin 1 on Hall Control Unit.

      Ignition Coil Pin 1
      (174 / 59, 57): Red/Black → Red/Black @ plug G1/12 on back of fuse / relay panel → internal connection path 1 → many wires coming out of the plugs in the back of the fuse / relay panel - too numerous to list.

      Ignition Coil Pin 15
      (174 / 58): Black → Black @ plug G1/4 on back of fuse / relay panel → internal connection path 15 → fuse 15 → plug G2/4 on back of fuse / relay panel and Digifant control Unit 3/86.

      Ignition Coil Pin 15
      (174 / 60): Black → Black @ Pin 4 on Hall Control Unit.

      Ignition Coil Pin 4
      (174 / 60): Black → Center of Distributor cap.

      Throttle Switches
      Plug/Socket is T2u/1 & T2u/2

      Throttle Switches Pin 1 (T2u/1)
      (174 / 65) Black → T2u/1 → Brown/White → connects inside the Digifant II harness with Brown/Whites from AFM pin 4, Hall Sender pin 1, CTS pin 2 → ECU Pin 6. ["circled 94" bundle]

      Throttle Switches Pin 2 (T2u/2)
      (174 / 65, 72) Black → T2u/2 → Red/Black → ECU Pin 11.

      Oxygen Sensor
      Plug/Socket is T3b/1, T3b/2 & T3b/3

      On the O2 Sensor Side:
      Black wire is the signal wire, O2 Sensor Pin 1 (T3b/1).

      White wire is either power or ground to the heating resistor, either O2 Sensor Pin 2 (T3b/2) or O2 Sensor Pin 3 (T3b/3).

      White wire is either ground or power to the heating resistor, either O2 Sensor Pin 3 (T3b/3) or O2 Sensor Pin 2 (T3b/2).

      The sensor itself grounds to the exhaust. (174 / 76)

      O2 Sensor Harness Side Pin 1 (T3b/1)
      (174 / 76) Green 'signal wire' is shrouded by Black shielding → ECU Pin 2. Wire is black from the O2 sensor to the O2 sensor plug.

      Black shielding is the "circled 18" which designates an engine block ground, i.e. one of the head grounds.

      O2 Sensor Harness Side Pin 2 (T3b/2)
      (174 / 74 ) Brown/Black → "circled 18" which designates an engine block ground, i.e. one of the head grounds. Wire is White from the O2 sensor to the O2 sensor plug.

      O2 Sensor Harness Side Pin 3 (T3b/3)
      (174 / 74, 173 / 38 ) Red/White → T6c/1 → Red/White → (173 / 38) → Fuse / Relay panel plug G1/8. Wire is White from the O2 sensor to the O2 sensor plug.

      Fuse / Relay panel plug G1/8 is connected both to both fuse 18 and Fuse / Relay panel plug M/2 Red/Yellow.

      Fuse / Relay panel plug M/2 Red/Yellow → T2p/2 → Red/Yellow → Fuel Transfer pump pin 3 and Fuel primary pump. Pin is not specified.

      Knock Sensor
      Plug/Socket is Tg3/1, Tg3/2 & Tg3/3

      On the Knock Sensor Side:
      Wires are in a sealed bundled and not accessible.

      Knock Sensor Pin 1: (174 / 69) T3g/1 is Yellow → ECU pin 4.

      Yellow 'signal wire' is shrouded by Black shielding which is Black Tg3/3, the outer cable which is Tg3/3.

      Knock Sensor Pin 2: (174 / 68) T3g/2 is Black → ECU pin 5.

      Black 'signal wire' is shrouded by Black shielding which is the outer cable, Tg3/3.

      Knock Sensor Pin 3: (174 / 67) T3g/3 is Black → ECU pin 7.

      This is the outer cable which contains the shielding. T3g/3 is Unspecified Color → ECU pin 7 and shields the black and yellow 'signal wires'.

      ISV (Idle Stabilizer Valve)

      ISV Pin 1:
      (174 / 79) Yellow → ECU Pin 22.
      ISV Pin 2:
      Empty slot.
      ISV Pin 3:
      (174 / 78) White → ECU Pin 23.

      Hall Sender (aka Hall Generator):

      Hall Sender Pin 1:
      (174 / 64) (negative) Brown/White → connects inside the Digifant II harness with Brown/Whites from AFM pin 4, Throttle Switches pin 1 (T2u/1), CTS pin 2 → ECU Pin 6. ["circled 94" bundle]

      Hall Sender Pin 2:
      (174 / 62) (neutral / signal) Green/White → ECU Pin 18.

      Hall Sender Pin 3:
      (174 / 62) (positive) Red/Black → ECU Pin 8.

      Hall Control Unit (aka Ignition Module):

      Hall Control Unit Pin 1:
      (174 / 59) Red/Black → Red/Black @ Pin 1 on the ignition coil.

      Hall Control Unit Pin 2:
      (174 / 61 & 172 / 11) Brown/White → Battery Negative terminal.

      Hall Control Unit Pin 3:
      Empty Slot.

      Hall Control Unit Pin 4:
      (174 / 60) Black → Black @ Pin 15 on the ignition coil.

      Hall Control Unit Pin 5:
      Empty Slot.

      Hall Control Unit Pin 6:
      (174 / 62) Green → ECU Pin 25.

      Hall Control Unit Pin 7:
      Empty Slot.

      AFM (Air Flow Sensor Potentiometer):

      AFM Pin 1:
      (174 / 68): Blue/White → ECU Pin 9.
      (G42 Internal Air Temperature Sensor)
      AFM Pin 2:
      (174 / 69): Blue/Red → ECU Pin 21.
      (G19 Air FLow Sensor Potentiometer)
      AFM Pin 3:
      (174 / 70): Blue/Black → ECU Pin 17.

      AFM Pin 4:
      (174 / 67): Brown/White → connects inside the Digifant II harness with Brown/Whites from Hall Sender pin 1, Throttle Switches Pin 1 (T2u/1), CTS pin 2 → ECU Pin 6. ["circled 94" bundle]

      Digifant Control Unit Relay: (aka relay #3)

      2 (174 / 81) → internal connection path #30 in the fuse-relay panel → fuse-relay panel plugs A2/6, D/6 and F/9.

      5 (174 / 81) → fuse-relay panel plugs G1/7.

      6/87 (174 / 80) → fuse-relay panel plug G1/10 Black/Yellow → Tc6/4 Black/Yellow → ECU pin 14.

      4/30 (174 / 80) → internal connection path #30 in the fuse-relay panel.

      1/85 (174 / 79) → internal connection path #31 in the fuse-relay panel.

      3/86 (174 / 77, 79) → internal connection path #15 in the fuse-relay panel.

      Digifant Control Unit Relay: "30" or "32" [a2resource] [Relay #3]
      1 (Main Fuse / Relay Panel Ground)
      2 Tachometer
      3 Main fuse / relay panel start-run power
      4 Main fuse / relay panel Battery power (+B)
      5 to ECU (relay turn on) (1990 G60, ABA/VR6 OBD1 only)
      6 to ECU and engine electronics.

      Fuel Pump Relay: (aka relay #12)

      2/86 (173 / 34) → internal connection path #15 in the fuse-relay panel.

      3/85 (173 / 34) → fuse-relay panel plug G1/3 Red/Yellow → (174 / 72) T6c/2 → ECU pin 3.

      4/87 (173 / 36) → internal connection path #a in the fuse-relay panel → fuse-relay panel plug G1/3 T1 and G2/7.

      Internal connection path #a in the fuse-relay panel looks to connect with 5. On the other side of 5 is 7 which connects to fuse-relay panel plug G2/6.

      6/30 (173 / 36) → fuse-relay panel plug G2/9 and 30B.

      (173 / 35, 37) 30B Red → 30 → Internal connection path #30 in the fuse-relay panel.

      Fuel Pump Relay: "80, 67 o 167" [a2resource] [Relay #12]
      1 Main fuse / relay panel start-run power [not used]
      2 Main fuse / relay panel start-run power
      3 To ECU - fuel pump turn on
      4 to fuse 18 Fuel pump, O2 sensor Heater
      5 G2/6 (not used)
      6 Main fuse / relay panel Battery power (+B) from B30
      7 G2/7, T1 [not used]
      8 Main Fuse box ground [not used]
      9 M/4, U1/8, G2/5 [not used]

      Load Reduction Relay: (aka cross-over relay and x-relay) "18" [a2resource] [Relay #4]
      1 From Ignition Switch Run Power
      2 To Main fuse / relay panel run power
      3 Main fuse / relay panel battery power (+B)
      4 Main Fuse box ground

      Internal Connection Paths:

      15 Originates at ignition switch. Supplies power when switch is in "ON" or "START" position.

      X Load Reduction relay circuit. Originates at ignition switch and supplies power when switch is in "ON" position. Circuit is interrupted when Starter engages.

      30 Battery positive (+) voltage. Not dependent on ignition switch.

      31 Battery ground (-).

      50 Supplies power from battery to starter solenoid when ignition switch is in "START" position.

      B+ Originates at the alternator and supplies voltage to the battery.

      D+ Alternator warning light and energizing field circuit.

      W RPM signal from alternator (diesel) on diesel engines.

      85 (Control Ground) Ground side (-) of a switching relay.

      86 (Control Power) Power-in side (+) of a switching relay.

      87 Primary power out to appliance.

    8. Member
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      Newest, 92 GTi half-swap plus
      07-06-2016 08:57 PM #6
      fopeano is correct about the wiring. Go through his thread. He is building a no-nonsense Digi II harness.

      Hate to suggest this, but to make this work, you are going to have to reverse engineer all of the internal connections in a CE2 fuse/relay panel. In the Bentley current flow diagrams this would be all the stuff in the grey box at the top of the diagram.

      It is a doable thing, but would probably require you to either carry a CE2 fuse relay panel just for the digi II. Bulky thing to try and tuck away to carry a few relays.

      You could get more creative and use standard 4 and 5 pin relays in a small bosch relay box with fuses. You would only need to make Useable fakes of the digi relay and the fuel pump relay I think. Digi relay would be easy, standard 4 pin, but the fuel pump relay is more complex, and not a standard configuration. Digi is also finicky about fuel pump relays. there are a couple of them and they are NOT interchangeable.

      Over there are less than a dozen wires running back to the Fuse/Relay panel from the ECU. Trace one wire at a time and replicate that circuit. Proceed to the next wire.

      A better plan would be to run the digi II engine on Megasquirt 2.2 green board with and LC2 Wide band O2 sensor. Clean and simple.

      Nice choice of cars! P1800 and 122S are still both on my list of cars I want to daily.
      Working on Shell #4 with 14 donor cars scavenged for parts.

    9. Member fopeano's Avatar
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      86 16v Coupe project, 00 GLI VR6 Track/Sunny Day Beast, 05 P71 New Daily, Rotten 99 Accord Spare
      07-06-2016 10:17 PM #7
      I'll have to make a fresh copy and take a picture of the Mitchell engine harness diagram. I have to warn you though, I had some trouble taking the pictures shown in focus so everything is legible. I'll see if I can use a scanner/copier at work to make a PDF maybe, but it may be a crude picture you need to print out. To clarify, the wiring diagrams were printed out for my car 12 years ago when I worked at a shop using Mitchell. I made photocopies to write on for this project. I could send it snail mail. I have plenty of envelopes and liberty forever stamps.
      Last edited by fopeano; 07-06-2016 at 10:27 PM.
      I used my 6 years of Mk2 hobbyist training to become an auto tech in 2005, but that makes you not want to work on your car as much. I'm also a VR6 noob in 2018.
      YouTube channel of my cars, blown up cars from work, and some of the more interesting work I've done

    10. Member
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      Newest, 92 GTi half-swap plus
      07-13-2016 09:38 AM #8
      Any Progress?
      Decide on what direction to take with it?
      Working on Shell #4 with 14 donor cars scavenged for parts.

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      07-14-2016 03:34 PM #9
      Super easy to fire digi two off using only two relay-one for ecu/injectors/dizzy/maf. And the other for fuel pump (still controlled by ecu for oem function. Hit me up in a dm i can prob help yah-i just did a very similar thing on a cabby running digi 2 now-was cis


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    12. Semi-n00b
      Join Date
      Aug 11th, 2015
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      17
      09-05-2016 06:23 PM #10
      I completed all the wiring on the engine side. Even made a pretty cool gas tank



      then i had to stop because I couldnt find a cap and rotor for the engine.

    13. Semi-n00b
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      Aug 11th, 2015
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      09-05-2016 06:23 PM #11


      2nd attempt posting photo

    14. Member Jettaboy1884's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 20th, 2004
      Location
      North, NJ
      Posts
      7,473
      Vehicles
      '97 A4 12v & '17 Honda Fit Base - 6-speed
      09-05-2016 08:11 PM #12
      This forum never ceases to impress. There's some top-notch knowledge in here!

      I'm curious about your swap: What made you decide to go with the VW 8v, and why with the 1.8L instead of a 2.0L? What bellhousing and transmission are you using?

      Keep up the great work, it sounds like you're on the home stretch.

    15. Semi-n00b
      Join Date
      Aug 11th, 2015
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      17
      09-05-2016 08:39 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by Jettaboy1884 View Post
      This forum never ceases to impress. There's some top-notch knowledge in here!

      I'm curious about your swap: What made you decide to go with the VW 8v, and why with the 1.8L instead of a 2.0L? What bellhousing and transmission are you using?

      Keep up the great work, it sounds like you're on the home stretch.


      Someone gave it to me for free. i would have rather had a 1.8T out of a mk4 or mk5

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