Congrats! Awesome car and awesome pics of what appears to be a great road trip. Looks like you caught this one just in time before it suffered any more neglect.
I've been keeping an eye on the M5 market for a while now. But as much as I'd love one in my garage I just can't bring myself to take on the responsibility of ownership just yet. Most of the examples I see have lots of deferred maintenance and just general wear and tear, which means many weekends busy spent making things right again. But I'm happy to see other bold enthusiasts take on the challenge! Sometimes I think about the M5-lite 540i/6. Until I read articles like this one.... http://oppositelock.kinja.com/public...40i-1685761777
There's definitely risk with owning these but there's also plenty of reward. I'm prepared to work on it myself as much as I can because otherwise, it can become pretty costly.
There were a couple with 40-50k fewer miles available, but I didn't think they were worth paying an extra $10k. We'll see if I was right.
Cars under 80k have a big premium due to miles. Cars over 120k are closer to rod bearing and timing chain guide replacement. Those two aren't DIY friendly.
At 100k, you get a rush of small things, but you don't pay a premium, and you have plenty of miles until big ticket items start loomong. OP bought well.
does anything require machining or is it just the bearings themselves that wear and requirement replacement?
dropping the oil pan probably isnt too bad, no? if its just a bearing replacement id imagine that would be a DIY with the engine in...
You'd be able to knock it out though.
on second thought, not something id wanna do without a lift, but it does look like the pan comes off in the car after you take the subframe off. i guess if it needs timing chains too maybe its easier to just pull everything out and do it without any gymnastics in the car hah
i only skimmed this thread, but damn... why you so soft bearings?
learn something new every day
*In 2000 the M5 recommended 10w60.
*People complained I guess that 10w60 was hard to find, as I believe this may have been one of the first motors to use the 10w60.
*Around 2001 BMW changes recommended oil to 5w30 I believe.
*Also around 2001 BMW begins offering complementary oil changes?
*Also around 2001 oil change interval goes up to 15,000 miles?
SO if all the above is true, it is possible that it was a cost cutting move by BMW to raise oil change intervals and switch the recommended oil to a cheaper, more available oil, at our rod bearings and valve seals expense. This is one of the main culprits for the E60 v8's notorious valve seal issues, the extended oil change intervals causes them to dry out and harden prematurely.
I run Liquimoly 10w60 religiously, drive the car hard, and have no issues at 148k. Switching to 10w60 over the 5w30 definitely reduced how much oil the car consumes, as evident on the trunk of the car. Being alpine white, the back used to get covered in an oil exhaust film noticeably quicker on 5w30. And that is on a quite healthy S62 that put down 344whp/374wtq on a dyno at Frank Smiths shop, so this isn't some worn out example. They will consume some oil. Mine is due for replacement of all the oil separator hoses, I noticed they are quite soft when I had the plenum off to do the valve cover gasket and to replace a coil pack.
I will highly recommend poly front thrust arm bushings. These are the first to wear out in the front and cause a lot of shimmying under braking. Also Poly rear front diff mount made shifting very crisp and precise, though my rear mount was arguably toast before. This car is made to be driven hard, and at least mine seems to like being driven in that manner.
I have replaced every control arm on the car. The thrust arm bushings were the only ones really worn out, but I had been wanting an E39 m5 since I rode in a new one back in 2000ish, so I wanted mine to ride just like the one I rode in back when it was new so I bought the lemforder kits from FCPEuro and replaced them all (the full 20ish piece kit including the steering links). I have replaced the headlight lenses (old ones were hazy) and the headlight adjuster mounts, throttle body to plenum gaskets, both valve cover gaskets, a bunch of vacuum lines under the plenum, both TPS sensors (only 1 was bad), spark plugs, thermostat, 1 coilpack, rebuilt the entire driveshaft (guibo, bearing, pinion seal, driveshaft alignment bushing) front diff bushing, trans mounts, I have motor mounts pending install. Did trans and diff fluids as well (your transmission should have a sticker stating which oil to use, mine is a 2002 and required MTF-2)
Of all that stuff, the only parts that have actually failed so far have been
thermostat (was opening around 150* instead of 180*, so while the car wouldn't overheat, it took too long to warm up so it tripped the CEL)
thrust arm bushings
guibo/drive shaft bushing / pinion seal/ front diff mount
oil separator hoses nearing end of life
headlight leveling adjuster mounts
valve cover gaskets
If I had only replaced the parts that actually failed, that wouldn't really be a lot of maintenance at all for a 148k mile 15 year old car. I did all the other stuff because I wanted the car to ride like new, since I definitely couldn't afford one of these when they were new.
I did all the work myself, in a gravel driveway on jackstands. None of it was particularly hard either. This isn't a hard car to work on. It is just somewhat overbuilt in areas. There are something like 63 nuts/bolts and like 8/9 hose clamps you have to remove just to get the plenum off to be able to do the valve cover gaskets. If you need pointers on DIY'ing any of the stuff i've listed feel free to shoot me a PM. Take lots of pictures of stuff as you take it apart so you can see exactly how it is supposed to go back together and you should be fine.
Last edited by yeayeayea; 03-29-2017 at 08:59 AM.
You can tell this if you own one because it's a completely different car warming up than it is once it's up to temp. But it takes a good five miles or so to be ready, sometimes more, which is why I say it's not a good daily driver, especially for shorter drives. But the valve system is driven by that oil, and the bottom end needs it, too. It's a hundred percent reliant on oil flow. I think the examples with the issues beat on the car the moment the lights said you could have the red line. But those lights are lying [email protected] The oil temp gauge is your real friend.