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What did you do to your Atlas today

616K views 2K replies 397 participants last post by  Kushdaiin 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey there
other forums have this topic- i thought i would create one for the Atlas

I also wanted to share that i added aftermarket tablet holders that are very discreet and work great- holds the 8" fire HD tablets perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DTLC1Y

and added a WIFI router in the armrest which is powered off the USB port there and has a built in media server so kids can watch movies on the tablets

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZWOQZ6/

(note: i have no financial ties to these products or amazon)
 
#1,292 ·
Installed sub, tough work getting wires past the third row but I managed. New door speakers are up next.
Nice, looks clean. Curious how that one compares to the one included with the Fender system, I believe the Fender is a 6.5" and the CV is 12". Stats show the CV unit is substantially heavier but part of that is having the amp built into it.

I added a bit of damplifier pro near mine as some of that sheet metal in the tire well seems thin and I had a little rattle coming from the rear without it.
 
#1,403 ·
Nothing crazy, installed deAutoLED yellow fogs.







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#1,442 ·
Installed the FRONTRUNNER Volkswagen Atlas (2018-Current) Slimline II Roof Rail Rack Kit. On our 2021 VW Atlas SE R-Line w/Tech. Took awhile to finish, see last photo for delay item.
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The overall fit is perfect. I was able to find level rather easily. Centering was easy but it does shift when you start tightening each Grab On Foot. Overhang was 1" each side for front and 2" each side for rear. As I was able to find level I did not need the provided Spacers for use on the rear (2x)Grab On Foot.

Plenty of clearance for sunroof operation in all positions. Lower wind deflector works and is clear of sunroof operation.
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One of the delays in assembling the rack was several bits or triangular shaped aluminum chips were preventing the bolts from getting to the treads. We went through each part and checked / cleared the connection areas.
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We also found that using a rag with just a dab of oil helps the parts slide in their channels for attachment to the rack frame. The instructions that come with the kit are basic photo copies. They do have PDFs on their website but you will find that a few details are missing. A specific bolt or nut may not show in the guide or parts list but it is in your parts bag and is definitely needed. Overall not hard to figure out, just time consuming.

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Passenger side distance from front rail foot. About 1" offset

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Driver side distance from front rail foot. About 1" offset

We still have two of the Expedition Rail Kit - Front or Back left to install. I ordered the wrong size (too wide) and am waiting for the replacements to arrive.

Ordering accessories for the FRONTRUNNER rack system needs consistent detail. The rack will be defined by length and an accessory like the Expedition Rail Kit will be defined by width. I had to dig deeper into instructions and product info to find this information that would have helped earlier.

We have some camping trips coming up. I may post additional photos of the load and feedback and function in the future.
 
#1,500 · (Edited)
@Savvv here's the link and list of parts from the link, tips I learned, and credit goes to @TWs/VW for figuring it out from the thread I reference. For those that don't have a pano roof, the thread linked below does contain the proper part number needed. The below is for those with a pano roof.

Backlit overhead map buttons

Parts needed per TWs/VW:
Front lamp assembly with Pano roof Part # 5GM-947-105-A-DYU can be had around $70
VW Repair Wire Part # 000 979 009 E
Butt Connector VW 000 979 941 (accommodates wire range 0.5mm² to 1.00mm²) per TWs/VW
Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg per @arkitect06 method

Here is TWs original post from the thread for parts after testing it out:

"...there is an easier, less expensive way to complete the installation with common tools and parts; but, it does involve (1) cutting the Gray 0.5mm² wire exiting Pin 11, Connector T16a (Coupling Point on Roof TH); (2) creating a 3-way Splice using Butt Connector VW 000 979 941 (accommodates wire range 0.5mm² to 1.00mm²), $1.20 each; (3) installing Wire Set VW 000-979-009-E (which I believe is a Micro Quadlok System (MQS) Female/Female), $9.55 each - between Pin 3, Connector T6j (Lamp Assembly WX1) and the newly created 3-way Splice."

I went with @arkitect06 method of using a Positap to tap into the wire referenced below with the following pics.

Pic credit TWs/VW

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Pic credit arkitect06 (using Positap method)
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*Note - I found it was easier to work from the passenger side to get the installation in place.

Using a trim remover pop off the cover piece, I started from the passenger side and worked my way around. After removal you will see the internals.

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Using a trim piece there are four corner tabs to release the internals, again I started from the passenger side and you can slide from the outside portion of the black your trim piece to release the tabs. The next photo I show these 4 tabs.

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Per TWs' findings after releasing connectors, popping out the mic and it's joining connector, you want to use the repair wire to tap into Pin 3 into the Lamp Assembly WX1 6 pin connector T6j VW 6Q0 972 706. You will see in the overhead liner on the driver side the Coupling Point on Roof - TH 16 pin connector T16a 8W0 972 416. Now this is where I used the route arkitect06 using a Positap. Take your repair wire and cut in half, strip the end and connect up the Positap. Here is a link to YouTube on how to connect up the Positab to the exposed wire so you can later tap into the grey wire going into Pin 11 to the Coupling Point on Roof. My struggle was how to open up the 6 pin connector in order to get the repair wire into Pin 3. Here's the trick and thanks to TWs, on one side you see tabs as seen below.

Pic credit to TWs/VW
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With everything seeming to be a push down and pull with connectors, that's what I was doing with no luck. The top tab as pointed out below you want to slide something like a small flat head or pick tool to lift up so you can slide the parts apart.

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End result is the following:

Pic credit to TWs/VW
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Now on the repair wire the portion that clicks to lock will be upward when inserted and then slide the 6 pin connector pieces back together to lock in place. From here the Positap end that you've connected to the repair wire, you'll want to locate the grey wire going into Pin 11 on the Coupling Point on roof pull back enough to tap into the wire as shown in the video linked to earlier and in arkitect06's pic shown at the beginning for his method I used. After this, connect back up in reverse to make your life easier. Connect your Coupling Point back in the overhead liner, then insert the microphone and it's accompanying piece, connect the controls from the pano (small black connector) and then connect the Lamp Assembly WX1 blue connector. Before installing back in test to confirm buttons are backlit, test controls, and test microphone. Once validated insert the Front Lamp Assembly and you are good to go.

Hope this helps.
 
#1,768 ·
New rear rotors and pads installed today.

EBC RK7422 rotors
EBC Greenstuff DP62153 pads



Yes I know my rims are durty, [emoji23]


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#1,769 ·
I changed the trunk lights to LEDs but this time, I swapped the whole housing rather than just the bulbs as I did on our previous Atlas. Found it to be much brighter this time.


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#1,920 ·
Welp, as of this past Sunday, we are Atlas owners.

On Thursday, my wife’s 2015 Kia Sorento gave up the ghost about 115mi from home on our way home from Vegas. It was a legitimate surprise, as I have maintained it religiously, performing 5k im oil changes (more frequent than recommended interval), only using high quality oil and filters, etc. It has 129k miles on it, and is in great shape otherwise. After finding a way to get it home, I diagnosed it Friday, and found it spun a bearing, which is unfortunately far from unheard of on these Theta II engines. But the 2015’s have not yet been included on the recall(s).

I am a VAG fan, owning my second B5 A4 currently. But I did not coerce my wife in any way on what to pick as a replacement. We went to CarMax, and I told her to just pick her top 3 or 4, and we’d look at deals on those from there.

Her picks, in order:
1). Atlas
2). Audi Q5
3). Tiguan
4). Acura RDX

The Q5’s tended to have more miles on them for our price range than she wanted, same with the RDX’s.

Found a decent deal on an Atlas that wasn’t yet available, and a great deal on a Tiguan at the same dealership. Went to look at them, and we used an Atlas Cross Sport as a way to gauge how she liked the Atlas. And she ended up liking the Cross Sport more.

Oddly enough, I felt the Tiguan felt like a cheap toy compared to the Atlas CS, despite them both being well equipped SEL models with similar miles.

But, we brought home a 2020 Atlas Cross Sport SEL VR6 4Motion. Little under 20k miles, CPO.

I’m not normally a modern vehicle guy, but man, I love this thing. The virtual cockpit is super cool, the driver Nannie’s can be switched off, the auto start-stop is the least intrusive I’ve ever felt, the driver profiles features is awesome, I could go on.

Downside is the BT microphone isn’t working, and the dealership we bought from essentially told us they won’t look at it for at least two weeks and told us we had to leave the vehicle there for that duration. Found another dealership that is much more accommodating and we are having it fixed this Saturday.


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#1,922 ·
Welp, as of this past Sunday, we are Atlas owners.


Downside is the BT microphone isn’t working, and the dealership we bought from essentially told us they won’t look at it for at least two weeks and told us we had to leave the vehicle there for that duration. Found another dealership that is much more accommodating and we are having it fixed this Saturday.


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Same issue here with the Bluetooth mic, 300 miles in on a brand new 2023.
 
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