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    Thread: Let's Discuss Ceramic Coatings

    1. Geriatric Member Aonarch's Avatar
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      06-03-2018 10:45 PM #101
      I just use Carpro Hydro2 sealant every few washes. Super easy, works great.

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      06-03-2018 11:39 PM #102
      Quote Originally Posted by pdqgp View Post
      This looks like what I'm used to with my old boutique sealants/waxes ($40-$80 a can).

      Quote Originally Posted by audicoupej View Post
      That is surprising/disappointing. An easy solution for you is start using McKee's Hydro blue once a month or so when you wash. It's friendly with the paint coating. It's incredibly easy to use and works great. I bought my sister some as a gift to use on her car. She loved it.
      I do have the Hydro Blue but I haven't used it yet.

      In fairness to McKee's, by the time that car got wet that first time it had been sitting outside for a full week and had been driven 50 miles a day and had a noticeable coating of thick yellow pollen on it, so not ideal beading conditions. The pollen is down a bit now, but still present. It has rained again, and the beading has improved a bit but still not like that picture above. Note though that the car is a daily and I haven't touched it since doing the coating, so I still haven't really had the car wet while clean to see what the beading is like. I do feel the coating is on there though.

      In other news, just did 2 coats on the wife's old jalopy tonight. I managed to get 4 coats out of the bottle (2 cars 2 coats each including how much I probably wasted on the Tiguan being my first time), so not bad. Guess we will see how the garage kept Beetle fares. The ol' turdgen in the background is next but I'll need to order another bottle.


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      06-03-2018 11:44 PM #103
      So what about maintenance washes on daily drivers where you aren't going to be doing regular hand washes? I do have the Hydro Blue topper for when I do do a rare hand wash/booster (really only plan to do one mid summer like July/August and then once more in October before the snow flies). So in between those times, is my only option to blast is with nothing but pure water at the coin car wash after dark so there's no spotting from the sun? I'm assuming going through touchless washes is now off the table due to film left behind and crappy chemicals.

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      06-04-2018 12:00 AM #104
      Quote Originally Posted by puma1552 View Post
      So what about maintenance washes on daily drivers where you aren't going to be doing regular hand washes? I do have the Hydro Blue topper for when I do do a rare hand wash/booster (really only plan to do one mid summer like July/August and then once more in October before the snow flies). So in between those times, is my only option to blast is with nothing but pure water at the coin car wash after dark so there's no spotting from the sun? I'm assuming going through touchless washes is now off the table due to film left behind and crappy chemicals.
      Touchless isn't going to hurt it if it's a good coating. Only physical abrasion will remove it. Frankly, it's the easiest "quick wash" I can do during the week if I want it clean.
      I do optimum no-rinse on mine if I have time to do it myself and it's not completely filthy. It only takes a bucket of water and a few microfibers (if it's filthy from something, a good hard summer downpour cleans it most of the way)

      You don't need to get the "hot wax super maxi coat + premium sealant" whatever option from the touchless wash, just the lowest cost one works. Then again if you can just do a coin-op self-wash and it has good water pressure, a good power wash with water will get off nearly everything of a good ceramic coating (and it's cheaper than a touchless)
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      07-05-2018 02:12 AM #105
      Bump because I washed my car. Gtechniq EXO v3 (with Crystal Serum Light underneath) after one year.




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      07-21-2018 09:57 AM #106
      Washed the Tiguan for first time since doing the coating. Never ran it through a touchless or anything, it's just been sitting outside for the last two months getting nothing but rain washes.

      Upon washing it and getting the pollen off finally, the beading was good, and water shot right off the car. Coating is doing its job. Washed with the recommended McKee's SiO2 wash and did the Hydro Blue top off, so freaking easy. Spray on while car is wet after washing, rinse off with a bit of pressure (no nozzle on hose and thumb on end of hose works well). 10 minutes to do what used to take a couple hours with a couple coats of wax, and lasts far longer. Car doesn't even stay wet after. I also noticed no bonded contaminants at all in the paint behind the wheels.

      Did same thing to Beetle last night, same deal. Excellent products, anyone paying big money for this is getting taken IMO (yes I realize the paint correction is the bulk of it but still, I'm in this for under $150 for paint coating, wheel coating, HydroBlue, and the wash soap).

      Will never wax ever again.
      Last edited by puma1552; 07-21-2018 at 09:59 AM.

    8. 08-27-2018 12:08 PM #107
      Bump. Three months with CQuartz UK on the SS. Just did a reapplication of Reload after a hand wash yesterday.

      Water beading was still very, very good and it still looked generally shiny and clean even when it wasn't. However it had lost some of the gloss it'd had. Boom, it's back.

      I'll never wax again.


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      10-21-2018 12:02 PM #108
      Did the wife's car with Cquartz 3.0 yesterday.

      Really easy process. I wasn't expecting so much luster. The metallic in the Nightblue really pops now.

      I was worried about leveling, flash times etc. I worked half a panel at a time. Rubbed in with supplied suede wrap and applicator. Covered area in vertical motion then horizontal, repeat both, let stand for slow 30 count. At that point I could see it was more than half dry. Wipe off. No streaks, finish is even. It will stay in the garage for 48 hours.

      Used maybe 1/4 of the bottle.

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      10-21-2018 12:17 PM #109
      Anyone use Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant? I'm rather pleased with the results.

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      10-21-2018 02:32 PM #110
      Since this got bumped, still 100% happy with the McKee's stuff. Been a couple months since the last handwash with the SiO2 soap and the HydroBlue topoff and things are still beading just fine, just about to handwash both and top them off for winter - SO much less work than that seal and wax garbage I spent years doing.

      Will NEVER wax again.

      And actually I bet if you lived in a saltless state you could probably not even ceramic coat and just use the topoff coating once every three months or whenever you hand wash.

    12. Member audicoupej's Avatar
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      10-22-2018 10:03 AM #111
      Quote Originally Posted by Zunflower View Post
      Anyone use Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant? I'm rather pleased with the results.
      I have the Deep gloss liquid sealant and it's pretty easy to use but I haven't really tracked durability.

      Quote Originally Posted by puma1552 View Post
      Since this got bumped, still 100% happy with the McKee's stuff. Been a couple months since the last handwash with the SiO2 soap and the HydroBlue topoff and things are still beading just fine, just about to handwash both and top them off for winter - SO much less work than that seal and wax garbage I spent years doing.

      Will NEVER wax again.

      And actually I bet if you lived in a saltless state you could probably not even ceramic coat and just use the topoff coating once every three months or whenever you hand wash.
      I finally tried out my McKee's Paint coating. It's been a few months on my beater which has trashed paint. I used the coating prep polish by hand before applying. It's been holding up great. I only washed it once and it was quick wash job. I'm holding off trying any toppers as I'm hoping to see what results are on a vehicle that is not maintained properly or washed pretty much ever. Only issue I had is my bottle is over a year old now and is turning to jelly. The glass coating and wheel coatings I bought at the same time and do not suffer from this condition.
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      10-22-2018 11:15 AM #112
      Quote Originally Posted by Zunflower View Post
      Anyone use Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant? I'm rather pleased with the results.
      I use this - it's as good as any synthetic wax. Good enough where I'm still in this thread learning about the ceramic coating dos and don'ts.

      One quick note: a lot of detail product sites will cross sell Wolfgang's detailing spray. I bought it, used it once on a small section of my hood. The next day I actually washed the car and you could tell that the wax had been mostly pulled off....... not great.

    14. Member steelgatorb8's Avatar
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      11-06-2018 11:00 AM #113
      Thought I would bump the thread since I applied Gyeon Q2 Syncro this past weekend on my Focus ST. The main reason I wanted to do this is to make washing the car a less time consuming, easier process. I purchased the "bundle" which besides the Mohs/Skin/Cure/Applicator included 2 plush removal towels and a bottle of Gyeon Prep. I got it on sale and free shipping for well below the retail price of the standard item. One thing about the larger detailing sites is they tend to have sales all the time...just wait for the coupon code.

      Prepped the car with a full wash, decon with iron remover as well as nano mitt/sponge with the proper lubricant. Polished the car to my standards which is basically a one step with good old Menzerna FG400 and my trusty/antique Porter Cable 7424 (15 Years old, still works!). Nothing crazy here as my car is fully rock chipped to hell at this point. Even the PPF on the front probably should be replaced as it has taken a few massive hits. 98k miles with roughly 90% highway tends to do that.

      I loaded up the Gyeon Prep into an extra sprayer that I had. You'll probably want to pick a sprayer up if you don't have one as the kit didn't come with one. Went panel by panel with a light spray and a wipe down to remove. Pretty simple process.
      EDIT: Was cleaning up the garage yesterday and the sprayer head for Prep was buried under packing material in the box so it is included. *

      Mohs Application:
      This is way easier than I thought it would be. They give you plenty of suede applicator "towelettes" to use so be sure to switch to a new one occasionally. The product goes on very easy and removes just as easy as it goes on. I let it sit for about 20 or so seconds. I applied one coat, let it sit for an hour, then applied a second coat. Minimum required coats are 2 with a max of 3. I used one of the plush towels for the initial removal then followed up with a lower pile microfiber. The directions say to let Mohs sit for 4 hours before applying the Skin product. By this time it was 10:30 at night so I decided call it quits and apply Skin in the morning.

      Skin Application:
      Application was just as easy as Mohs perhaps even easier. Literally wipe on and wipe off. Applied one coat in the morning and let it sit in the garage for 24 hours to cure. Used the same towel process as Mohs. Really simple.

      Results:
      Impressive. The paint is super slick just like the old carnauba days. It will do the cliche towel sliding across the hood no problem. My previous process included using Sonax Polymer NetShield which while it beaded well tended to leave the paint "grabby". I drove in the rain this morning into work and the beading is insane. Only downsides I see to Gyeon Syncro is the cost (for a DIY product) and the number of layers/application time but if you schedule your time appropriately you should be fine. I have more than enough product leftover to coat my summer wheels when I remove them from the car soon. Really hoping that salt removal/winter washing will be much easier now than it was in the past. Overall, very happy with it.

      Last edited by steelgatorb8; 11-19-2018 at 08:00 PM.

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      12-07-2018 02:27 PM #114
      Quote Originally Posted by pdqgp View Post

      The main difference is the contact angle. Geyon is IMO a 10/10. (I'll see if I can dig up my cell phone shot of it beading.) The difference is stark/very noticeable. My Q50 has Cquartz and their Gliss product and in comparison I give it a 7/8 out of 10. That said, I'll be re-doing my car with Syncro in the coming weeks as Geyon's Skin is noticeably superior to CarPro's Gliss. It's that good for the money.

      The upside to McKee's however is that it seemed to last pretty well and it does offer a nice appearance. Here' my wife's van with V2 on it just before we sold it. The new owner even commented on how well it shined.
      I just bought a new van for my wife that is a metallic red color like your wife’s Lincoln. I really like the color but its so much better when polished and clean. It’s been sitting on the dealer lot for ten months so it’s begging for a detail. I really don’t want to polish it out just to put paint sealant on it as the van has so much surface area. Ceramic coating looks like it’s the way to go so I’m looking at the Autopia website to see what will work well.

      Gyeon Q2 One 50ml for $85 (Entry Level coating)

      Gyeon Q2 Pure 50ml for $129

      Gyeon Q2 Syncro $179

      Gyeon Q2 MOHS $116

      There’s also McKee’s, Pinnacle Black Label, GTechniq, Optimum Coat, Cquartz, and on.

      Basically I’m looking for something durable with hydrophobic properties. Gyeon wants you to buy all of their other cleaning products to go along with the ceramic coating and I’m not against using the coating booster.

      Is washing the vehicle with regular Meguiars car wash soap going to ruin the coating somehow?


      Maybe this process would be acceptable?

      Wash
      Iron-X
      Clay
      DA Polish with Meguiars UC
      DA Polish with Meguiars UP
      Wash
      CarPro Cquartz
      Reload

      This is a kit I found on autogeek. I already have the clay, Ultimate Compound, and Ultimate Polish.

      https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-pain...ction-kit.html

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      Last edited by CRD99; 12-07-2018 at 02:52 PM.

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      05-05-2019 10:23 AM #115
      A year later and the McKee's is still beading, albeit it seems to have taken a beating on the lower third of the doors and rear bumper on both cars after a winter's worth of salt, doesn't really bead there anymore but can't say I expected it to. Overall I am very happy with how it has held up, and it's time to do it again.

      I think this year I will just do one coat...or less.

      In my constant quest to do even less, I'm wondering if I could really phone it in, skip the ceramic coating altogether, and just do the Iron-X/clay/IPA like normal to get clean paint, and then skip the paint coating and just do the Hydro Blue topper? More than anything I'm concerned about UV exposure, and as it is I hand wash the car three times a year, spring cleaning, mid summer, and fall before winter so in all of these cases I'd already be doing the Hydro Blue topper. I wonder, could you just do the topper 3x between now and Halloweenish and skip the ceramic coating altogether?

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      05-05-2019 09:26 PM #116
      I took the quick and easy poor man's way out on the minivan just recently:



      Seriously though, for 15 bucks a bottle, this stuff is fantastic.

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      05-06-2019 10:45 AM #117
      Did the Meguires spray ceramic on my 4Runner. It has never been clayed and hasn't had a polish in a few years. Here's the beading after the first rain...not fantastic, but not bad for a $15 product and no prep work.



      Meanwhile here's my MK6 GTI that's going on its third season with CQuartz UK version 1 application.

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      05-06-2019 11:14 AM #118
      I had ceramic pro light professionally applied to my Focus a few months ago. So far, it seems to be doing well but I still get some annoying residue buildup on the horizontal part of the back bumper. Especially noticeable since its pollen season. I do like that leaving the car out in the rain probably removes 75% of the dirt though. Still feels super smooth when properly cleaned.

      For maintenance, I've gone to waterless wash most of the time. I'm using Adam's Waterless Wash that doesn't contain wax, and it makes cleaning the whole car a 10 minute job. Still will go to the self serve wash or a touchless automatic from time to time.

    20. 05-06-2019 11:33 AM #119
      Quote Originally Posted by N2OInferno View Post
      I took the quick and easy poor man's way out on the minivan just recently:



      Seriously though, for 15 bucks a bottle, this stuff is fantastic.
      This stuff WORKS PHENOMENALLY!!! Used it on my FR-S and it's beading water as if it had a ceramic coating. Doesn't last as long though, but for what it cost and how easy it is to apply, who cares right?

    21. Member compy222's Avatar
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      05-06-2019 01:01 PM #120
      Quote Originally Posted by N2OInferno View Post
      I took the quick and easy poor man's way out on the minivan just recently:



      Seriously though, for 15 bucks a bottle, this stuff is fantastic.
      was very impressed with this stuff for the insanely low price, the first application was a bit of a pain/streaky, from there its crazy easy. plus it's LSP compatible with meg's products, so you can just wax using NXT or another polish, then final top with this.
      Quote Originally Posted by capsaicin View Post
      AP1 S2000? I can not in good conscience talk you out of that. May your slip angle be great and your bed not be the couch!

    22. Member pdqgp's Avatar
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      05-07-2019 05:51 AM #121
      Quote Originally Posted by puma1552 View Post
      This looks like what I'm used to with my old boutique sealants/waxes ($40-$80 a can).
      Perhaps. The difference is the contact angle on Syncro is higher thus it will sheet off water and liquids much easier/faster and will last much longer. Ceramix also have far less static so dust and pollen, which is big now, tend to come off easier.


      I do have the Hydro Blue but I haven't used it yet.
      I've not used it but like the idea of these types of products. Tough part is they tend to streak on darker colors unless the paint is freshly polished. They work well on wheels and honeycomb grills though. That's where I use them most for customers that are not paying for a true coating on wheels that is.
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    23. Member pdqgp's Avatar
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      05-07-2019 06:01 AM #122
      Quote Originally Posted by CRD99 View Post
      I just bought a new van for my wife that is a metallic red color like your wife’s Lincoln. I really like the color but its so much better when polished and clean. It’s been sitting on the dealer lot for ten months so it’s begging for a detail. I really don’t want to polish it out just to put paint sealant on it as the van has so much surface area. Ceramic coating looks like it’s the way to go so I’m looking at the Autopia website to see what will work well.
      you may not want to hear this, but polishing is the most important part of any detail. it's where the true gloss comes from and what sets the stage for the Last Step Product (LSP). I mean you can get away without it if you fully decontaminate things but the end results won't be as pleasing looks-wise.
      Gyeon Q2 One 50ml for $85 (Entry Level coating)
      Gyeon Q2 Pure 50ml for $129
      Gyeon Q2 Syncro $179
      Gyeon Q2 MOHS $116

      There’s also McKee’s, Pinnacle Black Label, GTechniq, Optimum Coat, Cquartz, and on. Basically I’m looking for something durable with hydrophobic properties. Gyeon wants you to buy all of their other cleaning products to go along with the ceramic coating and I’m not against using the coating booster.
      All good products with slight differences. I won't detail them all out as you can get that from their site but overall, within the GYEON line up, Syncro will have the highest hydrophobic property. However you can layer on any of the others and top immediately with booster and the chemical change between the two will result in the same effect. My wife's has two layers of Q2 MOHS followed by two layers of Skin and is still, 17k miles and 13 months later, going like day one even after a full winter of muck. Nothing but washes and decons for it thus far.

      You don't have to use their full line of products after coating the vehicle. Booster is nice down the road but honestly, I'd use CanCoat and do. It offers the same insane hydrophobic effect in about 20 minutes of use. Super easy to use.
      Is washing the vehicle with regular Meguiars car wash soap going to ruin the coating somehow?
      No, but many of them will have other gloss agents and residual polymers that could interfere with the coatings properties. I use CarPro Reset exclusively as my washing soap. ZERO issues and at about $1 per wash it's worth it.

      Maybe this process would be acceptable?

      Wash
      Iron-X
      Clay
      DA Polish with Meguiars UC
      DA Polish with Meguiars UP
      Wash
      CarPro Cquartz
      Reload
      You don't need compound. That's only needed on severly swirled out F'd up finishes. Just use polish. If you're going to Cquartz UK 3.0 use CarPro Essence as the polish. Excellent product and will serve as a base-layer for the coating. About 2hrs after the coating has cured top with Reload which will help protect it for the following few days until it's fully hardened. Hope this helps.
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    24. Senior Member dubdaze68's Avatar
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      05-07-2019 11:38 AM #123
      Quote Originally Posted by N2OInferno View Post
      I took the quick and easy poor man's way out on the minivan just recently:



      Seriously though, for 15 bucks a bottle, this stuff is fantastic.
      I wonder if I could do this as a top coat for my single stage paint that is in it's death knell.
      DCIVW
      CE.

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      05-07-2019 01:27 PM #124
      I had a year old, unused, unopened, stored indoors bottle of the SiO2 paint coating sitting right next to a used, opened, stored indoors bottle of the SiO2 paint coating with very little coating in it left. The opened bottle was still fine, still liquid. The brand new unopened bottle somehow turned to jelly and is unusable. I emailed McKee's and they are sending me a fresh bottle at no charge. Great service.

    26. Member vwlifer27's Avatar
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      07-11-2019 09:48 AM #125
      So, I just had my 2019 GTI professionally coated. Single stage paint correction, then coating. It looks great, but of course I missed a large rock chip on my lower rocker. It's so low that you need to get on your hands and knees to see it. Its a deep pit.

      I am wondering if because its so deep the coating didn't actually get in there and I will be able to touch it up? I just do not want any rust popping up from the chip.

      My installer said that any existing rock chips will be fine as the ceramic coating will seal it up as if it was a 'clear coat'. I have been reading online however, that chemicals in ceramic coating will interact with in treated rock chips and cause 'damage' (however that is just one article I read, haven't seen anything else that says this). He said it wont cause something to rust.

      Thoughts? I'm guessing I can carefully touch up any new paint chips in the future (carefully as to only get touch up on the bare metal and not the surrounding coating)?

      Lastly, the coating he put on is good for 5 years. If I still have the car at that point and choose not to get it put on again, can I just start waxing like I normally would or do I need to get another polish/correction?

      He also missed a scratch on the clear coat prior to the ceramic coat. He is going to stop back out and redo that area. I don't blame him for missing it, its right on a leading edge of a door and it looks like it could just be light hitting it, but its actually a scratch. A weird one at that.

      I am bummed as this car is only a month old and 1222 miles and already has a giant pit and a scratch (which I don't know how it got there).

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