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    Thread: Locost 7 Build Thread

    1. Member
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      03-15-2018 11:35 AM #26
      OP, good to see you have a roll hoop with proper lateral and longitudinal bracing.



      Do any Locost owners ever tie the rear upper shock/spring mounts into the roll hoop? It's a shame to have the suspensions loads so close to - but not tied into - all that tubing back there.

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      03-15-2018 12:08 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by StressStrain View Post

      Do any Locost owners ever tie the rear upper shock/spring mounts into the roll hoop? It's a shame to have the suspensions loads so close to - but not tied into - all that tubing back there.
      There are a lot of rear suspension variants, especially with all of the different Miata and Toyota rear axle setups being so common. I recall seeing a few that did a better job of tying those loads together. In my case I didn't feel strongly enough about it to change what Bob had done there, but time will tell. One thing I do know is that the rear spring rates are REALLY high for street driving. I feel like the chassis deflection at the spring perch might be a measurable portion of the total suspension travel.
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    4. Just Going with the FLO. Strange Mud's Avatar
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      03-15-2018 12:23 PM #28
      I want to move to Lincoln NE so we could be neighbors......I am jelli and hope you keep this thread alive (yourself too!)

      Mud

    5. Member 16volt's Avatar
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      03-15-2018 12:31 PM #29
      A dry sump Pinto motor.....now there's something I never thought I would see.

      Cool build.

    6. Planters (fasciitis) peanuts. Dang dogg Sold Over Sticker's Avatar
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      03-15-2018 01:33 PM #30
      In for more. I love Locosts.
      Driving While Awesome Podcast. Give it a listen. Assetto Corsa Discord Link. Join us for some sim racing fun.
      Quote Originally Posted by Phillie Phanatic
      SoS - please shoot a message when Brendan & His Retarded Sycophants has another gig. I’ll be there, front row.

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      03-15-2018 02:45 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by ArmenB View Post
      There are a lot of rear suspension variants, especially with all of the different Miata and Toyota rear axle setups being so common. I recall seeing a few that did a better job of tying those loads together. In my case I didn't feel strongly enough about it to change what Bob had done there, but time will tell. One thing I do know is that the rear spring rates are REALLY high for street driving. I feel like the chassis deflection at the spring perch might be a measurable portion of the total suspension travel.
      OK, understood about different driveline and chassis parts.

      I agree that the chassis compliance in the rear will be high, but that's in this Locost's design! It's always a bummer to see shock and spring loads feed into a section without a lot of vertical stiffness. But maybe that's just the way I see the world.

      Looks like a fun car just the same!

    8. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      03-15-2018 04:34 PM #32
      This is really cool. I can only watch and dream though, as my 6'4" 250 lb. frame would not fit. And likely add more than 25% to the weight of the car!

      Chris
      | 20 Ram | 13 Altima | 00 Tahoe | 94 Integra GS-R | 74 SuperBeetle | 62 Ford Unibody |

    9. Geriatric Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      03-15-2018 04:36 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by ArmenB View Post
      There are a lot of rear suspension variants, especially with all of the different Miata and Toyota rear axle setups being so common. I recall seeing a few that did a better job of tying those loads together. In my case I didn't feel strongly enough about it to change what Bob had done there, but time will tell. One thing I do know is that the rear spring rates are REALLY high for street driving. I feel like the chassis deflection at the spring perch might be a measurable portion of the total suspension travel.


      That and sidewall flex.


      Edit: I just caught up with page one.

      Hooray! for Minilites and engine mods!
      Last edited by Air and water do mix; 03-15-2018 at 04:44 PM.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    10. Member candy11's Avatar
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      03-15-2018 09:58 PM #34
      Cool!


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    11. Member
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      03-15-2018 10:45 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post


      That and sidewall flex.


      Edit: I just caught up with page one.

      Hooray! for Minilites and engine mods!
      With a 1400lb car on 205/50-15 tires, I don't really even have sidewall flex to count on anymore!
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    12. Senior Member dubdaze68's Avatar
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      03-16-2018 11:22 AM #36
      Oh, one thing you REALLY want to have is a transmission/driveshaft scatter shield. My buddy didn't think he really needed one until he was hooning down the back stretch at Beaverun at about 130 and the U-joint decided to let go and explode at the transmission. He heard the noise, but didn't notice how close he was to disaster until he looked down, and the driveshaft had punched through the aluminum sheet and was rotating like a jagged drill an inch from his leg. He told me that if it had done it under braking or when he lifted his leg, it would have taken his leg out. It looked like a car bomb had gone off at the floorpan.
      DCIVW
      CE.

    13. Geriatric Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      03-16-2018 11:34 AM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by ArmenB View Post
      With a 1400lb car on 205/50-15 tires, I don't really even have sidewall flex to count on anymore!
      Dude, you are on it!


      Quote Originally Posted by dubdaze68 View Post
      Oh, one thing you REALLY want to have is a transmission/driveshaft scatter shield. My buddy didn't think he really needed one until he was hooning down the back stretch at Beaverun at about 130 and the U-joint decided to let go and explode at the transmission. He heard the noise, but didn't notice how close he was to disaster until he looked down, and the driveshaft had punched through the aluminum sheet and was rotating like a jagged drill an inch from his leg. He told me that if it had done it under braking or when he lifted his leg, it would have taken his leg out. It looked like a car bomb had gone off at the floorpan.
      Holy crap!

      I'd at least use a driveshaft loop or two.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    14. Member
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      03-16-2018 01:53 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by dubdaze68 View Post
      Oh, one thing you REALLY want to have is a transmission/driveshaft scatter shield. My buddy didn't think he really needed one until he was hooning down the back stretch at Beaverun at about 130 and the U-joint decided to let go and explode at the transmission. He heard the noise, but didn't notice how close he was to disaster until he looked down, and the driveshaft had punched through the aluminum sheet and was rotating like a jagged drill an inch from his leg. He told me that if it had done it under braking or when he lifted his leg, it would have taken his leg out. It looked like a car bomb had gone off at the floorpan.
      Agreed. Today I have a pretty decent amount of steel chassis bars before it could get to the aluminum skin, and they form something of a protector around the sides of the driveshaft to protect my legs, but the coverage of steel is not total. What's worse is that my arm rests on a plank of wood that is removable and has much less steel under it to keep the driveshaft from coming up and tearing my arm off. I will figure out some kind of removable plate or hoop.
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    15. 03-16-2018 04:24 PM #39
      Wow! If any project was screaming for an F20C transplant this is it!

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      03-16-2018 04:41 PM #40
      Quote Originally Posted by Rob View Post
      Wow! If any project was screaming for an F20C transplant this is it!
      Yeah, this car would be fun with any engine under it. Like even a Pinto eng...oh wait.

    17. Member
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      09-24-2018 05:15 PM #41
      Whew, it's been a while. The big news is that this last weekend I actually drove the car on the street, like, legally and everything, and not just around the block. I actually drove it to a place, went into that place, came out after a while, and drove it home. Like you would with a car. Of course after about 10 miles of use I broke it pretty severely, but we'll get into that later.

      Since I was talking about interior, let's give a quick overview.

      When I bought it from Bob, he had welded in a couple of tabs to mount some low-back fiberglass bucket seats. I wasn't OK with that - I wanted at least some basic amount of head and neck protection with a high back seat and wanted to be able to adjust the drivers seat at least for drivers of different heights.

      I really went crazy with luxuries when building out the interior:
      • 15" Kirkey aluminum racing buckets. The widest I could fit in the car.
      • A tachometer (I mean I know it was a Pinto engine, but no tach??!)
      • Some 3M carbon vinyl for the dashboard
      • A Vintage Air compact heater/defroster.
      • A locking glovebox with cupholders




      Really, Bob? No tach? I swear I didn't even notice this for the first year I had the car.


      The dash after being re-worked to include the tach and glovebox, and you can just see the heater system inside the scuttle.


      I still have no idea why I did this. The ride is so stiff that even a sealed water bottle is going to spill.


      This is another of the many details that just takes more time than you expect. Had to put a plate behind it to have a way to fasten and locate the lower edge of the dash, and to make enough room for the shifter. It took a couple of tries, especially hand-forming that little aluminum trim piece, and of course I made changes later that screwed up the shifter location.


      I had to remove and re-work the rear bulkhead to make the new seat belt anchors work, but I think it worked out in the end. There's just no width to put anything next to the seat, those 15" seats literally rub on both sides of the chassis.


      Unfortunately the sliders mean that the seat is up higher than I would like, which makes the rollbar higher and the windshield higher than I would like. But I do pass the broomstick test with flying colors with a helmet on, so the awkward looks are for a purpose. And I can change the angle of the seat if I'm willing to spend half an hour doing it.


      Here are the completed "street" DOT-approved belts. There's just no room for a spool/retracting mechanism, so a modern 3-point belt wasn't going to work. This is awkward and fiddly, but I'll also have a 5-point harness for track duty, so this will eventually seem really convenient.


      "interior" pretty much completed. Yes, I HATE HATE HATE the fox body steering wheel. It's on the list to be changed, but I really need to change the whole column to something smaller and simpler.
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    18. Member
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      09-24-2018 05:42 PM #42


      It was at about this time that I also made front fenders (not happy with these at all yet, so I'll share photos when I get closer to a final product). By now it was (semi) driveable and pretty demonstrably complete. I then spent about 4 months getting this little piece of metal attached:



      At least it stores well!





      However, it really ran like crap. Despite going through the carbureator once and doing some basic tuning, it obviously needed a bunch more attention. Plus, I put the car on the scales and it was a bit porky. Over 1500 lbs!



      I really wanted to get that weight down if I could, and I was faced with a 20-30 hour project to go through the ignition, timing, and carb to get it dialed in well.

      So....spend the time to finish it properly, or do something dumb to get the weight down and also get around the carb?


      Oh yeah, I went full dumb.




      The project took a bit of a turn at this point.
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    19. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      09-24-2018 05:58 PM #43
      Yes!!!
      | 20 Ram | 13 Altima | 00 Tahoe | 94 Integra GS-R | 74 SuperBeetle | 62 Ford Unibody |

    20. Member Tokyosmash's Avatar
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      09-24-2018 06:20 PM #44
      Quote Originally Posted by ArmenB View Post


      It was at about this time that I also made front fenders (not happy with these at all yet, so I'll share photos when I get closer to a final product). By now it was (semi) driveable and pretty demonstrably complete. I then spent about 4 months getting this little piece of metal attached:



      At least it stores well!





      However, it really ran like crap. Despite going through the carbureator once and doing some basic tuning, it obviously needed a bunch more attention. Plus, I put the car on the scales and it was a bit porky. Over 1500 lbs!



      I really wanted to get that weight down if I could, and I was faced with a 20-30 hour project to go through the ignition, timing, and carb to get it dialed in well.

      So....spend the time to finish it properly, or do something dumb to get the weight down and also get around the carb?


      Oh yeah, I went full dumb.




      The project took a bit of a turn at this point.
      That’s a Duratec :confused and happy look:

    21. Member
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      09-24-2018 10:01 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by Crispyfritter View Post
      This is really cool. I can only watch and dream though, as my 6'4" 250 lb. frame would not fit. And likely add more than 25% to the weight of the car!

      Chris
      This is approximately a "442" frame, which means it's 4 inches longer, 4 inches wider, and 2 inches taller in the cabin than the original. It's surprisingly friendly for tall folk - lots of legroom. It's extremely judgemental about wide folk, though. I'm 5'10" 185 and if I gain 20 lbs I'll be too wide to fit in the seats.

      Quote Originally Posted by Tokyosmash View Post
      That’s a Duratec :confused and happy look:
      Yes. Yes it is.
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    22. Member Tokyosmash's Avatar
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      09-25-2018 01:41 AM #46
      What ITB’s are those?

      Strongly leaning toward a 2.5 Duratec swap in to my SVT in the coming years, ITB’s would be a must.

    23. Member
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      09-25-2018 06:59 AM #47
      So, I decided to go with a duratec swap for a number of reasons. It's lightweight, common and cheap to replace, and surprisingly the aftermarket support isn't terrible. Another great thing about the duratec is that RWD conversions are somewhat common in the UK, so various custom swap parts are available as long as you're willing to pay for them internationally. More specifically, I went with a 2.5l version from a 2010 Escape Hybrid. Turns out the hybrid variant has a 12.3:1 static compression ratio because it runs in the atkinson cycle all the time. I picked one up semi-locally for about $600 and could get 5 more tomorrow for the same price from the auto recyclers.

      I decided to bite the bullet on the duratec swap because it was my long-term plan for the car anyway, and I figured "why spend 30 hours fixing the current engine when I can apply that 30 to the 150 I'll have to spend on the swap?"

      I also found another couple of Locosters abandoning planned duratec projects so I got many of the swap parts used. Here's a partial list off the top of my head:

      • GSXR 750/1000 ITBs
      • Intake adapter for ITBs, and another adapter to match up with the 2.5 vs. the 2.3 intake ports.
      • Duratec to T5 bellhousing adapter
      • Exhaust header flange
      • Weld-up RWD engine mounts
      • EDIS4 ignition module and coilpack
      • Ranger oil pan and pickup
      • Ranger flywheel



      Why 2.5? I mean LOOK AT THOSE PORTS.


      Race cams and springs from Crower to help lower the dynamic compression. I had to do something aftermarket since the stock cams have the atkinson-cycle-friendly profile and the big-time VVT setup.


      Lots of bracket fabrication on a project like this. I love the Project Binky episode where they run the timing during the 15 hours of bracket fabrication. It's like a huge time vortex when you start trying to fab custom stuff, and I'm a total hack doing "quick and dirty" stuff. Here's the bracket I made up for the EDIS ignition module. I'm running EDIS4 in wasted spark with the MS2 engine controller.


      I'm grateful for the rear coolant output on this version of the duratec. Unlike the Miata MZR variant, it shouldn't have coolant flow issues on the back of the head. Unfortunately this means that you have to run a long hose from the back of the engine all the way around to the front and down. My first attempt at a quick hack was some universal flex hose. This lasted about 2 miles and then exploded, thankfully all in the garage.




      Attempt 2 is much better so far. 1.5" mandrel bent tubing welded up with good strong brackets (oh, look, custom brackets) and a bleed valve.



      There's not much to get in the way in a Locost chassis, but unfortunately the stock duratec oil filter housing fouls on the frame in a serious way. I had to cut out a brace and switch to a remote filter with an adapter plate (and another custom bracket).


      You know what the 2.5l duratec has? Almost 20 lbs of balance shaft. Well, it did have that. Now the trash man has it. I probably don't need balance shafts at 8,000RPM anyway.




      Engine mounts! Nothing says "comfortable and luxurious ride" like throwing away the balance shafts and then making poly shackle mounts for the engine. Oh, look, custom brackets.
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    24. Member Tokyosmash's Avatar
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      09-25-2018 07:26 AM #48
      The 2.5 is a fantastically torquey engine also and has a broad range of support from Mountune, Cosworth and so on.

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      09-25-2018 07:43 AM #49
      So cool. Well done, OP.

    26. Member
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      09-25-2018 07:44 AM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by Tokyosmash View Post
      The 2.5 is a fantastically torquey engine also and has a broad range of support from Mountune, Cosworth and so on.
      I'm very early in the tuning stages, but I'm impressed so far. The ITBs also seem to work OK early on, and I know tuning them will be a challenge. I don't know that I'd want them in a more normal street car. The GSXR ITBs have no provision for ECU control of the idle - just a screw to hold the throttle plates open. You're stuck with the same idle speed whether cold/hot/AC on, etc.

      The nice part with the Duratec setup is that the injector bungs are cast into the head, not the intake, so you can use the stock fuel rail and bigger injectors with the ITB setup easily. I just plugged the injector holes in the ITBs with some freeze plugs and sealant.
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

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