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    Thread: AWIC manifold for a 12v VRT mk1

    1. Member
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      03-22-2019 08:29 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks View Post
      Looks great. I'm glad you made the change.
      Thanks. Yeah, not all my ideas workout in practice like they do in my head.

      Monday might be getting more welding. Really trying to get this thing wrapped up by the end of April.

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    3. Member
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      03-25-2019 09:30 PM #27
      Plenum halfway there:





      Problems up top here though:


      It did fine underneath on the other side in that same area.
      Any tips for cast? My coworker is still learning aluminum.

    4. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      03-25-2019 11:57 PM #28
      I am no expert by all means, but I first started welding Cast AL many years ago. While I saw you are using Thoriated (based on prev page), I have had more luck on Cast with either pure Tungsten (non-Inverter), Ceriated or recently Lanthiated

      BUT, with that being said, it really looks like you just have contaminated Cast. Cast, will absorb oils. Non-Chlor brake cleaner and pre-heat will usually vapor off the contams. Glass Beading will also make your like easier with cast!

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      03-26-2019 07:12 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by sdezego View Post
      I am no expert by all means, but I first started welding Cast AL many years ago. While I saw you are using Thoriated (based on prev page), I have had more luck on Cast with either pure Tungsten (non-Inverter), Ceriated or recently Lanthiated

      BUT, with that being said, it really looks like you just have contaminated Cast. Cast, will absorb oils. Non-Chlor brake cleaner and pre-heat will usually vapor off the contams. Glass Beading will also make your like easier with cast!
      I think you're right about the contaminated cast. I'll try pre-heating and non-chlor brake cleaner.

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      03-27-2019 10:55 PM #30
      got the side plenum pieces almost ready to go.


      Went with .25"

    7. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      03-28-2019 09:53 AM #31

    8. Member
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      03-28-2019 09:26 PM #32
      Needed a bit more room to weld in here:


      finished cleaning up the side piece/endtank I cut off:


      Ready to be welded. Next week if I'm lucky.

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      03-30-2019 10:33 PM #33
      I'm liking this throttle body placement:



      Got all the side pieces fit and ready for welding, but I ordered a couple weld in 3/8-18 npt fittings (for in/out air temps).
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-NPT-PIP...AAAOSwk5FUyqya

      Not worth my time to make em at this price, and in CA too. Might get this thing together this week.

    10. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      04-03-2019 03:44 PM #34
      I wouldn't even turn my lathe on for $4.45 LOL.

    11. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      04-03-2019 04:05 PM #35
      I wouldn't even turn my lathe on for $4.45 LOL.

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      04-03-2019 07:56 PM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by sdezego View Post
      I wouldn't even turn my lathe on for $4.45 LOL.
      lol

      Long over due weld prep for the valve cover:


    13. Member carsluTT's Avatar
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      04-03-2019 11:52 PM #37
      works looking sharp!.... keep it going

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      04-05-2019 07:33 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by carsluTT View Post
      works looking sharp!.... keep it going



      A little more test fitting in the meantime:



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      04-11-2019 10:05 PM #39




      Leak check next week.

    16. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      04-11-2019 10:31 PM #40
      .25 is nuts for end tanks. I typically use .090. the best kind of kill is Overkill lol.

      Looking good. If you still need to weld to the cast section, cleaning up the surface with a carbide Burr bit, file, or mill really helps. In addition to the absorbed contaminates, the surface finish off raw cast doesn't easily allow for oxide removal and can cause subsurface porosity.

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      04-11-2019 11:06 PM #41
      Quote Originally Posted by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks View Post
      .25 is nuts for end tanks. I typically use .090. the best kind of kill is Overkill lol.

      Looking good. If you still need to weld to the cast section, cleaning up the surface with a carbide Burr bit, file, or mill really helps. In addition to the absorbed contaminates, the surface finish off raw cast doesn't easily allow for oxide removal and can cause subsurface porosity.
      Thanks for the tips. Yeah, the .25" for the sides was in case i wanted to tap a fitting and was free/available. Top and bottom piece .125"

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      04-24-2019 09:40 PM #42
      Machined the weld out again:





      Decided to not bother my friend with this section anymore. Dropped it off at a local shop on Monday, highly regarded by a couple sources. We shall see.

    19. Member
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      04-29-2019 09:43 PM #43
      All good. Only charged me $30. Darren @ Arc Tech in Santa Cruz.


      Gotta make a couple block off plates for leak checking still.

    20. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      04-30-2019 03:30 PM #44
      Nice!

    21. Member
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      04-30-2019 08:18 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by sdezego View Post
      Nice!


      Finally got the valve cover filler pieces ready to get welded:


      Happy with how this is gonna look too:


      Throttle body block off plate for leak checking:

    22. Member
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      07-23-2019 08:55 PM #46
      Long overdue updates:

      Got all the leaks sorted a few weeks ago.

      Last of the welding today:
      -Vacuum port for brake booster
      -Throttle cable mount
      -Rear support braces






      One last leak check and wash to do, but I'm calling it finished.

      It may along with some other bits get ceramic coated in the future.

    23. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      07-24-2019 09:49 AM #47

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