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    Thread: Need help p0134 r32

    1. Member
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      09-12-2018 02:19 PM #1
      Hi all

      I posted in another spot but it may have been the wrong one.

      I am in desperate need of some help here. Going to give the short version.
      Things Iíve done:

      Replaced the sensor, twice.
      Cleaned maf.
      Changed gas stations and ran a can of cleaner through system


      Couple weeks ago replaced my stock cats and center section w milltek high flow cats. After that I got a couple odd 02 sensor codes... so I began looking into it. I replaced both rears as I had heated circuit codes for both... we had to torch them out so assumed we killed them. Those codes are now gone and no CEL came back for them. I have UM fully loaded tune w spark cut also if that matters.

      Next about a week or so after exhaust install I started getting p0134... checked w vag com also... no further information between vag and my generic scanner, just says bank 1 sensor 1 no activity. Now bank 1 sensor 1 from my understanding is the pre cat sensor on the passenger side if Iím looking from the front of the car into the engine bay, yes?

      Iíve replaced the sensor two times now. Car runs and drives fine, can clear code but code and light come back within 20-25 miles of driving.

      Took a 20 mile drive w vag com hooked up and it is showing bank 1 sensor 1 is working and correct values... so I am completely lost.

      We touched nothing in the forward section of the exhaust... only from the cats back.... Iím running out of ideas and patience and need this fixed before next inspection.

      Next I am going to chase wires and inspect the ecu but I really could use some help w that, does anyone have any idea or a pinout of which wires I need to check continuity on for bank 1 sensor 1??? I wasnít able to find ANYTHING online...

      Any and all help would be very much
      appreciated.

      ****update as of 5/9/19****

      *******So I replaced my headers with milltek over the winter. As Iíve just started to drive the car this spring, the CEL went off with the install of the headers and then came back randomly one day as I idled at a car wash. It took about 400 miles for it to come back. I scanned the car and this was the only code. I cleared the code and did nothing else other then climb under the car and unplug the sensor, clean both ends with sensor cleaner and let dry and put back together. Cleared code with obdeleven... have now driven about 1,000 miles with no CEL. (Yet) but I feel like it may finally be gone... will keep this updated.

      Long story short, I do think the headers fixed my issue and that I had a small exhaust leak somewhere. Flexís good etc when removed nothing noticeable, gaskets possibly. Could also have been a dirty connection, water hitting a semi exposed wire that Iíve yet to find.. who knows.

      I hope this info can benefit someone as Iíve spent a lot of time and money trying to narrow it down! Itís a pain in the a** code.. but donít give up!!******

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      Last edited by Rhodyvr6; 05-09-2019 at 07:48 PM.

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    3. Member
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      09-13-2018 06:14 PM #2
      Bumpppp help!!!! Lol


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      09-14-2018 09:54 AM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by Rhodyvr6 View Post
      Bumpppp help!!!! Lol


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      OHHHH man. Welcome to the club I spent 3k$ chasing this code all last summer. It is a real pain in the ass. And most techs won't agree with you on what the fix is until you fix it and show them.

      The short answer: it's a vacuum leak in the DP right near the upstream 02 sensor, in your case bank 1. If you have stock DPs, the leak is most likely by the flex pipe. If you have Miltek DPs, its the middle flange gasket.

      The longer answer: a leak in your down-pipe near the o2 sensor is actually sucking a small amount of fresh air into you exhaust, even as exhaust gasses are leaking out. There is such a high pressure of exhaust gas passing by the leak that it grabs some fresh air and drags it in. The fresh, unmeasured air bounces around in your DP near the upstream o2s. Your over engineered, highly sensitive upstream o2 sensors pick up that fresh air. The sensor then tells you ECU that something weird is going on. If that weird reading keeps happening for about 500 miles the ECU says "F*** it, I'm shutting this whole thing down!" and thus a no activity and a mild limp mode occurs. Basically your ECU is getting funny readings for a period of time and then shutting down the o2 until the problem is fixed.

      This makes sense in your case because you just replaced the mid pipe/cats, so while you were moving all those parts around, you probably disturbed the DP while torquing things loose or tight and it sprung a small leak. To find the leak, you can do a smoke down test through the exhaust tail pipe, or just use your hand to feel where the leak is coming from while the car is running (don't actually touch the DP cuz ouch). The leak will be within 6"-10" of the upper o2s. Like I said if stock DPs its most likely your flex pipe. The leak can be very small too.

      It gets really bad with No Lift Shift and Launch Control tunes, because the fire balls will actually cook gaskets. I get about 5-10k miles out of my Milteck DP gaskets because NLS and LC are way fun.

      If you're on stock DPs it sounds like a good time to upgrade because the job is kinda a pain.

      Good luck
      Last edited by FJ&R; 04-02-2019 at 04:15 PM.

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      09-14-2018 10:05 AM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by FJ&R View Post
      OHHHH man. Welcome to the club I spent 3k$ chasing this code all last summer. It is a real pain in the ass. And most techs won't agree with you on what the fix is until you fix it a show them.

      The short answer: it's a vacuum leak in the DP right near the upstream 02 sensor, in your case bank 1. If you have stock DPs, the leak is most likely by the flex pipe. If you have Miltek DPs, its the middle flange gasket.

      The longer answer: a leak in your down-pipe near the o2 sensor is actually sucking a small amount of fresh air into you exhaust, even as exhaust gasses are leaking out. There is such a high pressure of exhaust gas passing by the leak that it grabs some fresh air and drags it in. The fresh, unmeasured air bounces around in your DP near the upstream o2s Your over engineered, highly sensitive upstream o2 sensors pick up that fresh air. The sensor then tells you ECU that something weird is going on. If that weird reading keeps happening for about 500 miles the ECU says "F*** it, I'm shutting this whole thing down!" and thus a no activity and a mild limp mode occurs. Basically its your ECU is getting funny readings for a period of time and then shutting down the o2 until the problem is fixed.

      This makes sense in your case because you just replaced the mid pipe/cats, so while you were moving all those parts around, you probably disturbed the DP while torquing things loose or tight and it sprung a small leak. To find the leak, you can do a smoke down test through the exhaust tail pipe, or just use you hand to feel where the leak is coming from while the car is running (don't actually touch the DP cuz ouch). The leak will be within 6"-10" of the upper o2s. Like I said if stock DPs its most likely your flex pipe. The leak can be very small too.

      It gets really bad with No Lift Shift and Launch Control tunes, because the fire balls will actually cook gaskets. I get about 5-10k miles out of my Milteck DP gaskets because NLS and LC are way fun.

      If you're on stock DPs it sounds like a good time to upgrade because the job is kinda a pain.

      Good luck
      Ok. First of all thank you SO much for the reply.

      Second of all I agree 100%. I basically have exhausted all options and decided this winter while the car is off the road I will purchase milltek DPs. I think i came across your thread on this subject which has got me to where I am.

      Yes I replaced the mid pipes/cats w milltek and had the milltek catback already. Maybe a week or so after is when this code came up. I had other ones as well for rear heater circuits and replaced both rear 02ís those codes have not returned. As stated I replaced the bank 1 primary 02 as well, twice to rule that out. I do have launch control and youíre absolutely correct... I was messing w it and right around that time this code popped.

      Sometimes when the car is cold I can hear a leak when I am lugging on it in say 4th or 5th uphill while letting the car warm up. It is NOT big enough yet to feel as Iíve done this like 600 times. My guess is the same, gasket or flex pipe starting to go. Seems when the car warms up it cannot he found... or heard.

      On my bank 1 side we also torched a hole in the DP by accident removing the stock mid section... this was re welded and doesnít appear to be leaking, I also think itís too far down to make this code pop as itís right near the flange for the dp to cat section.

      Thank you so much. I think Iíll toss on downpipes and make sure Iíve got no leaks before I waste anymore time or $. Itís a good excuse to do an upgrade I had planned on anyways, a good winter project too.


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      09-14-2018 03:18 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by Rhodyvr6 View Post
      Ok. First of all thank you SO much for the reply.

      Second of all I agree 100%. I basically have exhausted all options and decided this winter while the car is off the road I will purchase milltek DPs. I think i came across your thread on this subject which has got me to where I am.

      Yes I replaced the mid pipes/cats w milltek and had the milltek catback already. Maybe a week or so after is when this code came up. I had other ones as well for rear heater circuits and replaced both rear 02ís those codes have not returned. As stated I replaced the bank 1 primary 02 as well, twice to rule that out. I do have launch control and youíre absolutely correct... I was messing w it and right around that time this code popped.

      Sometimes when the car is cold I can hear a leak when I am lugging on it in say 4th or 5th uphill while letting the car warm up. It is NOT big enough yet to feel as Iíve done this like 600 times. My guess is the same, gasket or flex pipe starting to go. Seems when the car warms up it cannot he found... or heard.

      On my bank 1 side we also torched a hole in the DP by accident removing the stock mid section... this was re welded and doesnít appear to be leaking, I also think itís too far down to make this code pop as itís right near the flange for the dp to cat section.

      Thank you so much. I think Iíll toss on downpipes and make sure Iíve got no leaks before I waste anymore time or $. Itís a good excuse to do an upgrade I had planned on anyways, a good winter project too.


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      I think a smoke down test is really going to point out where your leak is if you have access to that type of machine. Even really small leaks will cause this in my experience. The fact that you cut a hole in the Bank 1 DP and this code came up is also a red flag, though you seem to be confident you sorted that. There is no flange in the stock DPs so I really bet its the flex pipe. I have gotten the code with out an audible leak. when you do order the Milteck DPs order extra gaskets, because you will cook those too. Which reminds me i need to order more.

      I had a hell of a time finding my cause, so I'm happy to help you find yours. I had 4 experienced techs look at it. I told each one it was a leak in the DP, and none of them believed me. Each one put a new sensor in which was 1000$ in just sensors. Then when that didn't fix it they all told me my ECU was done. 2 ECUs later, they all started blaming the UM tune. Then a few spent a lot of time chasing the wires Nothing wrong there. Then I put the Millteks in on my own and boom the CEL went off and the car was fast again. It was a happy day.

      Good luck

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      09-14-2018 05:19 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by FJ&R View Post
      I think a smoke down test is really going to point out where your leak is if you have access to that type of machine. Even really small leaks will cause this in my experience. The fact that you cut a hole in the Bank 1 DP and this code came up is also a red flag, though you seem to be confident you sorted that. There is no flange in the stock DPs so I really bet its the flex pipe. I have gotten the code with out an audible leak. when you do order the Milteck DPs order extra gaskets, because you will cook those too. Which reminds me i need to order more.

      I had a hell of a time finding my cause, so I'm happy to help you find yours. I had 4 experienced techs look at it. I told each one it was a leak in the DP, and none of them believed me. Each one put a new sensor in which was 1000$ in just sensors. Then when that didn't fix it they all told me my ECU was done. 2 ECUs later, they all started blaming the UM tune. Then a few spent a lot of time chasing the wires Nothing wrong there. Then I put the Millteks in on my own and boom the CEL went off and the car was fast again. It was a happy day.

      Good luck
      Awesome and thank you again!

      Iím positive Iíve got a leak as I said I can hear it when the car is cold... I can also smell wrong exhaust from the front of the car when itís warming up. Instead of trying to find and repair the leak or leaks I plan to just do the milltek downpipes myself.

      I also have logged stuff etc and my 02 sensor is working even though it says itís ďno activityĒ. The hole we made in the bank 1 DP was near the flange that mates the downpipes to the cats... there is a flange w gaskets there and we welded it back together knowing I was going to do the downpipes next regardless, now Iíve just got more of an excuse.

      Chasing my wires was next... I too called UM as people suggested the tune as well. Fred assured me it was not that and actually mentioned an exhaust leak as well. As I said, this p0134 did not come up until I had a bit too much fun w the launch control a couple days after the exhaust install... so itís all lining up w your advice...

      Iíll post updates when I eventually fix it. Ugh.


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      11-29-2018 03:13 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by FJ&R View Post
      Then I put the Millteks in on my own and boom the CEL went off and the car was fast again. It was a happy day.
      How not fast was your car??? I don't notice mine being much slower than normal really...

      I've had this code for a while... and same boat. Just upgraded to milltek headers as there was a giant hole in my flex pipe. Replaced 3 of 4 o2 sensors and just threw the same code for b1 s1&2 no activity... cleared it and we will see if it comes back... I've only thrown one fireball since install before throwing code too... no way I cooked the gasket in one shot...

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      12-03-2018 04:26 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by lil'red View Post
      How not fast was your car???. I don't notice mine being much slower than normal really..
      That fact that you said "I don't notice mine being much slower than normal really.." describes how "not fast" my car was. It was so subtle that only I noticed it, as the car is my baby. And when i fixed it i also noticed it being back to life. If i had to put a number on it i would say 10-15hp/tq down.

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      12-03-2018 04:33 PM #9
      Yeah my car is n/a so I would definitely notice a difference in 5% of the power. When I clear the code I don't notice my car to be any faster/slower than when the code isn't there. food to know. I haven't driven.my car much since getting new pipes installed and hopefully wilding the problem. I may have to get under it and really torque the bolts a bit if there's a slight air gap in the gaskets...


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      12-03-2018 04:43 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by lil'red View Post
      Yeah my car is n/a so I would definitely notice a difference in 5% of the power. When I clear the code I don't notice my car to be any faster/slower than when the code isn't there. food to know. I haven't driven.my car much since getting new pipes installed and hopefully wilding the problem. I may have to get under it and really torque the bolts a bit if there's a slight air gap in the gaskets...


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      I noticed this as well on a simple code clear it would still be in the mild "limp mode" and the code would come back with in 100-200 miles. HOWEVER if you do a hard reset of the ECU, I noticed it would be up on power and the CEL wouldn't come on for 500 miles.

      So for example, if I used my little pocket sized reader and cleared the code, the car would remain down on power and the CEL would come back within 100 miles or so. But if I reset the ECU (force readiness) with a powerful reader (vagcom) for about 500 miles it would be CEL free and would be back up on power.

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      12-03-2018 04:48 PM #11
      Ok maybe ill throw my vag com cable at it.. clear everything. I've got the color MFA from Litke so I've just been clearing it that way via the cluster.. ill see if the computer makes a difference.

      Thanks for all the help!

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      01-16-2019 07:52 PM #12
      Hey guys

      Just ordered my milltek headers... really hoping this will fix mine. My car is parked for winter here in VT to avoid salt so I wonít know for sure until spring. Being that mine happened only after installing the high flow cat mid section I am super hopeful that this will fix my issue. 02 sensors did not, so if this doesnít not even sure where I would go next. Either way pumped to get the headers on!


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      01-16-2019 08:00 PM #13
      Update on mine like FJ vag com clears it for longer time wise than my color mfa does... my miltek headers show no difference so I must have a small leak coming from somewhere else... spring will tell.. luckily by the Time i need to renew... were scrapping our car inspection process so no worries about cel's or emissions!

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      01-17-2019 09:03 AM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by lil'red View Post
      Update on mine like FJ vag com clears it for longer time wise than my color mfa does... my miltek headers show no difference so I must have a small leak coming from somewhere else... spring will tell.. luckily by the Time i need to renew... were scrapping our car inspection process so no worries about cel's or emissions!

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      Hahah awesome! I have until August to get mine sorted before next inspection.... really hoping the headers will fix it. Please keep this updated if you do ever figure out the actual issue... Iíve chased a lot of wiring on mine so far and swapped sensors, so quite sure itís the exhaust but we will see!


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      01-17-2019 09:08 AM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by Rhodyvr6 View Post
      Hahah awesome! I have until August to get mine sorted before next inspection.... really hoping the headers will fix it. Please keep this updated if you do ever figure out the actual issue... Iíve chased a lot of wiring on mine so far and swapped sensors, so quite sure itís the exhaust but we will see!


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      I've replaced 3 of 4 o2 arbors when I did my milltek's the top 2 still show no activity buy are still working till the code comes up... next time I do an oil change ill check the gaskets and bolts at the downpipe and mid pipe..

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      01-18-2019 07:56 AM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by lil'red View Post
      I've replaced 3 of 4 o2 arbors when I did my milltek's the top 2 still show no activity buy are still working till the code comes up... next time I do an oil change ill check the gaskets and bolts at the downpipe and mid pipe..

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      Crazy! Maybe the manifold gaskets need to be torqued back down? I only have one showing no activity, both work via vag com so mines like a ghost code. I had issues w removing the old exhaust on that particular side and we had to heat it quite a bit which put a small hole in the lower section of the down pipe on that side, we patched it... but my leak is either there or the flex pipe from moving it around etc Iím pretty sure.

      Keep us updated, this code is a pain in the ass!


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      01-21-2019 01:21 PM #17
      Just a friendly reminder that a smoke leak down test will point you right to the leak. Cheap, and informative. Also a reminder that even a leak all the way down by the mid pipe will mess with the up stream sensors. mine comes back one every 10K because i cook the lower gasket with the NLS/LC fire balls. It always happens the day after the sound off at witw for some reason?. I mention that because that is the gasket between the mid pipe and the dp, which is a good 1.5 ft south of the upstream o2s. Good luck fellas

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      01-21-2019 01:27 PM #18
      For sure. I gotta do this eventually. I dunno if my mechanic offers it... probably gotten bring it to a muffler shop... I think I've got a tiny leak at my o2 bung on the mid pipe... or maybe gaskets all over... although my milltek headers were just installed. I also like fireballs!! I do notice different idle on cold start with code active then I clear code. It'll blip the rpm and calm down slightly... if the car is warm and idle with code active and I clear it... no difference.. so I don't think it affects performance *that* much at all. Just annoying....

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      01-21-2019 01:50 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by lil'red View Post
      For sure. I gotta do this eventually. I dunno if my mechanic offers it... probably gotten bring it to a muffler shop... I think I've got a tiny leak at my o2 bung on the mid pipe... or maybe gaskets all over... although my milltek headers were just installed. I also like fireballs!! I do notice different idle on cold start with code active then I clear code. It'll blip the rpm and calm down slightly... if the car is warm and idle with code active and I clear it... no difference.. so I don't think it affects performance *that* much at all. Just annoying....

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      In my experience it effected performance a lot. I would say to the tune of 15-20hp on the butt dyno at WOT,as well as throttle response was garbage. Like a mild limp mode, but I have not confirmed such a limp mode exists. I bet you are so used to it, that when you do get it sorted, you will see a difference. I remember the day I got it fully sorted, the car was very different. Even a cleaner exhaust note.

      I got the same Butt Dyno results with a vagcom hard reset /set readiness. though. That lasted about 500 miles. Then I could feel it go into "mild limp mode" and then 200-300 miles later it would pop the CEL at 7-800 miles from reset. Normally after a long idle, or if cruising at the same speed for some time on the highway. So if you're not seeing a difference in performance after the vagcom hard reset, then maybe your performance ins't effected like mine was.

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      01-22-2019 05:52 PM #20
      Oh man..I recognized this code right as I was scrolling...

      I had this plague my R for a solid month before I finally figured it out one summer. I ordered a new MAF and did a bunch of scanning and cleaning, but nothing ended up working.

      Not sure if anyone has suggested this yet, but I ended up only having to replace the battery... Everything ran fine and it started up super quickly, but all it took was some shoddy wiring from an amp to cause some issues with my MAF. Got the new battery popped in and the car drove great afterwards and has since.

      I'd try a buddies battery to see if this is it before you end up spending $100+ on a new battery.

      Hope this helps and good luck!

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      01-22-2019 06:09 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by FJ&R View Post
      In my experience it effected performance a lot. I would say to the tune of 15-20hp on the butt dyno at WOT,as well as throttle response was garbage. Like a mild limp mode, but I have not confirmed such a limp mode exists. I bet you are so used to it, that when you do get it sorted, you will see a difference. I remember the day I got it fully sorted, the car was very different. Even a cleaner exhaust note.

      I got the same Butt Dyno results with a vagcom hard reset /set readiness. though. That lasted about 500 miles. Then I could feel it go into "mild limp mode" and then 200-300 miles later it would pop the CEL at 7-800 miles from reset. Normally after a long idle, or if cruising at the same speed for some time on the highway. So if you're not seeing a difference in performance after the vagcom hard reset, then maybe your performance ins't effected like mine was.
      I absolutely notice this ďmild limp modeĒ 100%. EXACTLY the same as you describe so I understand, trust me. It is SO annoying. The car runs much smoother and power is 100% when I clear the code... pop on highway and eventually it comes back on. I believe I have a couple leaks. New headers are sitting in my dining room...


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      Posts
      195
      Vehicles
      2004 .:R32 - 2009 Audi A3 3.2 S-Line - 2014 Touareg R line
      01-22-2019 06:10 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by IroFagan View Post
      Oh man..I recognized this code right as I was scrolling...

      I had this plague my R for a solid month before I finally figured it out one summer. I ordered a new MAF and did a bunch of scanning and cleaning, but nothing ended up working.

      Not sure if anyone has suggested this yet, but I ended up only having to replace the battery... Everything ran fine and it started up super quickly, but all it took was some shoddy wiring from an amp to cause some issues with my MAF. Got the new battery popped in and the car drove great afterwards and has since.

      I'd try a buddies battery to see if this is it before you end up spending $100+ on a new battery.

      Hope this helps and good luck!
      Thank you! So the battery itself fixed the issue for you, not the maf? Iíve cleaned my maf etc to. No help.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    25. Junior Member
      Join Date
      Mar 14th, 2017
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      27
      Vehicles
      MKIV R32
      01-23-2019 05:11 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by Rhodyvr6 View Post
      Thank you! So the battery itself fixed the issue for you, not the maf? Iíve cleaned my maf etc to. No help.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Yup, the battery was the only issue for me. I even bought a brand new MAF after cleaning mine out, and the problem persisted.

      Once I plopped the new battery in everything ran wonderfully again!

    26. Member
      Join Date
      Dec 14th, 2015
      Posts
      390
      Vehicles
      MK4 R32, MK2 GTIi 8V, '17 Ford RAPTOR, '91 Wrangler
      01-24-2019 04:50 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by IroFagan View Post
      Yup, the battery was the only issue for me. I even bought a brand new MAF after cleaning mine out, and the problem persisted.

      Once I plopped the new battery in everything ran wonderfully again!
      So a bad battery tossed a "o2 sensor no activity " CEL? That's a first hearing anything like that for me . These cars are bananas sometimes.

    27. Member
      Join Date
      Jan 22nd, 2013
      Location
      Toronto, Ontario
      Posts
      595
      Vehicles
      MKIV RS .:R, '12 PG Tiguan 6MT
      01-24-2019 04:53 PM #25
      Haha random... maybe that's why I don't really have/notice power loss... I do have an amp/sub installed

      I drive the piss out of my car and no way notice a 15/20 HP loss or any throttle difference.. maybe its all amp/battery issue. I guess easiest thing would be leakdown test of the exhaust first... bringing it for an oil change tomorrow... ill talk to my shop...

      I'm getting both top sensors with no activity.

      Sent via Carrier Pigeon
      MKIV .:R 32 RS - Funday baby
      '12 Tiguan - 6 speed manual - Stock - Daily driver
      '07 TR GTI - Gone

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