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    Thread: This should be fun: free TT bike frame project

    1. 11-13-2018 08:01 AM #1
      Well, I posted up on Slowtwitch and the local Chapel Hill bike group areas asking if anyone had essentially a "bin job" time trial frame. Not something like shrapnel of carbon in a bucket, but maybe something that was a 5 to 10 year old frame with the components picked off of it.

      A guy in CH responded "have one for free, come get it". I looked up the frame before driving out, legit frame. Went to get it, needs work, but nothing un-manageable at all. He rode it as-is for quite a while. I never would have.

      Basically it's a 2008-2010 Felt DA with bayonet fork. Also gave me an HED base bar and a pretty run of the mill 105 crank with a pretty used up Rotor Q ring. Looking at the crank and Q ring, likely a bin job there. The crank is a 175. I didn't pay attention to that, it was free. I'd prefer a short crank for a TT bike. The Rotor Q is pretty used up looking at the teeth. I'll probably make the bike 1x anyway.

      Lots to do on the to-do list. Disassemble and clean the fork/headset and see if it needs a new bearing. New threaded BB bearings. Fix the carbon with my leftover repair stuff. Run cabling and acquire brakes. I'll try to find an OEM spec sheet so I can buy the correct rear brake.

      Base bar is really nice, but, may prove problematic given it's out of production and needs the clamps for the skis. They're a weird part. I could borrow time on the BIL's milling machine and mill out a pair of clamps for about $15 in material I guess, then use the skis from my current TT clip on's.

      I'll post progress pics as things happen.

      So, here it is:



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      11-13-2018 10:28 AM #2
      I used to have a cheap Fuji TT frame when I raced in college. It was a hateful thing, heavy and really harsh riding, but it was super fast. Then they outlawed TT bikes in collegiate racing, requiring TTs to be raced on mass-start legal bikes, and I wasn't able to sell it so I gave it away for a 24 pack of Busch lite. So I guess I sold it for $13.

      #CSB

    4. Member Samson's Avatar
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      11-13-2018 10:41 AM #3
      Interesting. What sort of carbon repair does it need?

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    6. 11-14-2018 08:09 AM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by Samson View Post
      Interesting. What sort of carbon repair does it need?
      Chainstay. Probably even more common repair area than the top-tube issue I had on my own bike.

      He rode it with the chainstay damage, I never would have.

      I have just enough repair resin and carbon fabric to do that job. I got a rattle-can of black and non-gloss clear to touch up a few places.

      Ever heard of the "ship of Theseus"? Kind of the plan here. Except, instead of replacing bit by bit......it's building up bit by bit. You know, cause I couldn't buy a $1000 TT bike straight up.........but I can nickel and dime it till the cows come home and get away with a little bit. A cheap part here, some new cables there.

      I will share the wheelset from the roadie though, that'll keep costs WAY down. If I can use the basebar and my TT bars, minus the cost of material for brackets it would save me spending about $150 or so.

      I'll lookup RD's and other parts on Ebay and Craigslist. I did buy a new BB though, no reason to go used there.

      This should be fun, just have to be careful how quick the parts show up. Craigslist is easier when it's a $15 used part picked up in person.
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      11-14-2018 10:03 AM #5
      Gotcha. Good luck with the repair. It looks like a buttload of corrosion behind the steerer at the cable ports... is it? If so, I'd take a close look there too.For cheap parts, check the classifieds at trianglemtb. I've seen some really underpriced, nice road stuff on there before.

    8. 11-14-2018 12:56 PM #6
      No, it's leftover adhesive from some kind of decorative cover plate that used to go there.

      I'm going to clean that up when I run the cabling.

      I've removed all fasteners from the thing and will be cleaning the threads with a pipe cleaner from the kid's craft bin and be sure to use all new hardware and the anti-seize.

      I've got a good idea looking at the old base bar clamps online how I'd make some. I know how I'd make them better as well. Theirs weren't the smoothest looking things at all.

      FWIW....you can cut alum with a normal wood saw blade that has actual teeth. It's non-ferrous. Done it many times with alum "unistrut" kind of materials. Can also use a normal wood router as well. It's a common home-brew milling machine.
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    9. 11-15-2018 08:25 AM #7
      Kids watching a show last night while sick, I worked on the frame a little.

      Last disassembly task was to disassemble the bayonet fork and headset. Given the rest, assumed the same of lots of nasty trainer sweat/salt and difficult fasteners.

      I wasn't disappointed.

      The design of the whole headset bit isn't that weird, but enough. I got it apart and removed the bearings with a little puller/hitter thing I have.

      All of it was nasty.

      Once cleaned it all looks fine, no damage or long term wear on anything that's non-consumable.

      I have a PM out to a guy on Slowtwitch for some 6800 brakes for $30. That'd work fine. People want too much money for the OEM 7900 Dura Ace ones, used. 5800's would probably work fine also, I'll go that route if this guy falls through.

      Chinabay parts anyone? I talked to a guy at length about the whole concept of fraudulent parts. I say this as I'm considering getting a Chinabay saddle. Probably only thing like that I'd get. He said often the case is that the company makes an order for 5000 units. The Chinese factory doesn't shut it down until 5500 units and the factory owner "pockets" the 500 to sell.

      I'd never believe that for a frame or handlebars, but I'd attempt a purchase of a saddle or something that isn't too dangerous.
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      11-15-2018 08:58 AM #8
      Sheep, I have a spare (new in box) 105 5800 crankset if you need one. 53/39. I'd let it go for cheap as I sold the frame it was going on.

    11. 11-15-2018 03:54 PM #9
      I'm going to forego the aero benefit of 1x for now to try to save a little money. I'll use the crank that's with it for now. If you need to sell it before I try it or decide once I ride it at some point, feel free.

      I got a coupon code from Chainreaction and got most of what I need. I got the TT shifters for cheaper than used on Ebay.

      If I return the one cabling kit which I don't think I need, I'll be all-in at $300 for parts for the bike.

      I got a used FD/RD, new chain, new TT shifters, and a replacement saddle clamp.

      I did splurge on the brakes. I got some aero TRP ones that specifically work with the frameset. Only other brake that works on the rear is a 7800 DA. I was only finding pairs of those for about the same price as the TRP's, or singles necessitating adding another non-matching caliper.

      I'll sell the 10spd RD from the CX bike that was a short cage, some old Audi projectors, and a golf putter and probably net-out to zero on the build.
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    12. 11-16-2018 12:55 PM #10
      Sand/cut out the rot, put on new, wait to cure. I can see why you sand out so far. While you're teasing the fabric and resin onto the part it's not a super tidy affair. This repair will be solid, I did a patch on the spot and 3x wrap around. However, I think the edges on this one will be a bit uglier than my other repair job I've done. That job got painted anyway.

      This is a fun project given the low investment. When you've dumped thousands into a brand new bike you feel really apprehensive messing with things too much. This thing? Nope. Of course I'm not going to get all ham fisted with it.

      I'm probably going to get a Wheelbuilder disc cover for my spare wheels and a Superteam tri-spoke on the front. Yes, a superteam. It's a budget build. If I can find a 10 speed rear disc cheap I'll do that instead of the cover.

      Next task is fabbing up attaching my skis/pads to the HED base bar. Can't decide if I want to fab a bracket or just drill the base bar. The bar is huge, and solid. It is not hollow, it's a pretty heavy hunk of carbon for what it is. There "may" be room beside the stem for the original clip on clamps, but I'd have to maybe shave a tiny bit from the clamps to fit them.

      I'll likely try that first as it is less destructive.

      Original:


      Cut out, mostly:


      The stretched electrical tape pressure cure:
      Last edited by burnthesheep; 11-16-2018 at 01:54 PM.
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      11-16-2018 01:08 PM #11
      Why* all* the* asterisks?*

    14. 11-16-2018 01:53 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by mrothwell View Post
      Why* all* the* asterisks?*
      I just saw that. I didn't put them there. I sometimes type stuff in another window and paste it over. I'm documenting the build up in another forum, so maybe the format choked when I pasted it over.
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    15. 11-17-2018 06:11 PM #13
      Stan's special HED basebar....I can dig it.



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    16. 11-19-2018 12:47 PM #14
      Finished the carbon repair yesterday/today. I laid one extra layer for cosmetic purposes and got it sanded down nicely. I use a pretty conservative grit at the expense of more time to avoid any mistakes. Owning a random orbital DA helps a lot too.

      Probably about the best I could do at that as an amateur.

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      11-19-2018 12:56 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by burnthesheep View Post
      Finished the carbon repair yesterday/today. I laid one extra layer for cosmetic purposes and got it sanded down nicely. I use a pretty conservative grit at the expense of more time to avoid any mistakes. Owning a random orbital DA helps a lot too.

      Probably about the best I could do at that as an amateur.

      Nice!

    18. 11-27-2018 08:11 AM #16
      Presenting the finished product..................Black Dynamite. My Mr. Black Dynamite, what a big..........chainring you have.

      No test rides yet to setup anything position wise. Pads are about 5" below seat. I took the pics sitting on the floor looking upwards.

      I'm going to buy top tube bag (bento box?) for training rides only so I can do longer test rides in the skinsuit.

      Specs:
      2008 Felt DA, Bayonet SL fork
      Giant PSLR wheels
      54t big ring
      Older HED basebar custom adopted to my pads/skis
      Mechanical 11spd Shimano
      Just some used 105 derailleurs, probably 1x setup eventually (50T compact for training rides, and 54/56T for TT)
      Some old Giant seat I had in the closet for now
      No Gators, shame on you all training on Gators.......GP4000's to train, Conti TT's to race



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    19. Member Samson's Avatar
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      11-27-2018 08:23 AM #17
      Looks like a fun bike. Good work.

      Quote Originally Posted by burnthesheep View Post
      No Gators, shame on you all training on Gators.......GP4000's to train
      Hey now, don't all of you people who care about power numbers say "watts are watts" or somesuch? Plus, Gatorskins are better suited to Umstead. You're going to probably flat on the GP4000s.

    20. 11-27-2018 09:27 AM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by Samson View Post
      Looks like a fun bike. Good work.



      Hey now, don't all of you people who care about power numbers say "watts are watts" or somesuch? Plus, Gatorskins are better suited to Umstead. You're going to probably flat on the GP4000s.
      No joke, I think the winners of stuff like Dirty Kanza are running aerobars on gravel bikes nowadays.
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    21. Member Samson's Avatar
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      11-27-2018 10:19 AM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by burnthesheep View Post
      No joke, I think the winners of stuff like Dirty Kanza are running aerobars on gravel bikes nowadays.
      Yep. It makes total sense to save power on a long (usually windy and straight) ride like that, regardless of riding surface. The winds out that part of the country can be pretty intense and consistent.

      https://www.velonews.com/2018/05/gra...ays-yes_467838

      The improvement in speed by changing from flat bars to drop bars on my 29er was pretty huge. I imagine aero bars are a similar change, but with much narrower acceptable usage.

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      11-27-2018 10:36 AM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by Samson View Post
      Yep. It makes total sense to save power on a long (usually windy and straight) ride like that, regardless of riding surface. The winds out that part of the country can be pretty intense and consistent.

      https://www.velonews.com/2018/05/gra...ays-yes_467838
      Quote Originally Posted by article
      “I think I pissed a lot of people off at the beginning of [Dirty Kanza] because I ride in the center of the pack and I have no fear for that,” he says. “It’s a huge advantage.”
      What a douche. It says a lot about the kindness of gravel riders that they didn't ride that guy off the road in the first couple kms.

    23. 12-05-2018 09:34 AM #21
      Baby steps.

      I think I should start with trying to hold the speeds during certain interval workouts. Like 3x8min. Holding power on a trainer is one thing, holding the power/speed outdoors is different.

      I also need some GOOD data about speed/power. I know TT is done in windy conditions also, but that's crap for getting good baseline numbers.

      I need to know what 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 mph takes in watts on something pan-flat and minimal wind.

      Because.....goals.

      Apparently I'll never hit 30. I read up on it and the course record at the Lowes Speedway TT's (flat), was only 29.xx mph. Surely set by some quasi pro or something.

      So that ain't ever happening. Maybe I should say I'll do 30mph for one mile. Or maybe two. But not ten. At 2 miles that's only 4 minutes. Hmmm, 2 mile TT.
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    24. 12-12-2018 04:20 PM #22
      Used disc deal on the way.

      So, what’s the fastest front deep rim you can get USED for about $200.

      Right now looks like a well loved sram s80.

      Zipp 808 yeah, yeah right for $200 used. Not interested in pre firecrest stuff.

      Also, tubular. This rig is meant to fly. Not fart around the triathlon at 18mph.
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    25. 12-14-2018 01:58 PM #23
      Disc acquired. Renn “five five five”. Apparently you have to say it that way as that’s the sound it makes or something. Will need to buy and trim the back fave of an 11spd cassette. It’s 10spd. Or swap the hub like my other wheels.

      Front acquired also. I went fun/retro grouch on the front wheel.

      It’s an HED H3 trispoke. Like new with a Zipp Tangente installed.

      I’m almost embarrassed to say what I got that for. Not as in expensive, but got it for the price of a pair of really nice tires.

      In the mail, pics soon.

      I’ll need to do a video. It’ll probably sound like a pod racer from Star Wars (womp womp womp).

      Cheapest I could find a good 808 front was $350 and this was way way cheaper.

      I could probably sell it on Ebay for a solid profit, but it’s just too damn cool of a wheel.
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    26. 12-22-2018 04:26 PM #24
      Acquired some TT specific wheels.* I converted the Renn disc to 11spd yesterday.* I'm stretching out a tub on it right now before gluing it.* HED 3c on the front.

      Once all the tubs and spares are bought, stretched, glued and in waiting........I'll try a ride with the TT race wheels.*​​​​​​​

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