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    Thread: R32 intake removal & replace

    1. Member lamune's Avatar
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      MKV R32 #4835
      03-06-2019 12:19 AM #1
      Hi all,

      My cyclonic PCV separator diaphragm thing finally let go. I plugged the vacuum line and set up a temporary catch can but the weather has been good and I'm tired of smelling the crankcase fumes, so I'm in the midst of doing the repair. (I got the RKX kit)

      I'm following along with the VW service manual procedure and I'm at the point where I have the lock carrier out in service position and I'm starting to remove the intake manifold bolts. The two at the end are visible and easily removed, but the rest- is there some trick to getting these out? I've got a long-shaft hex bit and I'm using a mirror (very slowly and very badly) to locate them. I got 2 out before it got dark and quit for the night.

      I'm just wondering if there's some other way to do this, because if that's the only way to get them out (aside from removing the whole front of the car) then getting this back together is going to be really slow and painful. Hm, maybe that's why the dealer wants so much money to do this work.

      -Mike

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    3. 03-06-2019 10:06 AM #2
      Mike,

      How far forward did you move core support? I use about 4” long bolts from the hardware store to get the most amount of clearance possible. If you want tons of room removing the core completely isn’t that difficult.

      https://youtu.be/fp2iepD1LHE


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      MKV R32 #604 Soon To Be TVS Stage 3 Supercharged United Motorsport Triple Tune, Schrick Cams, R32_deviant Manifolds, Miltek Non Resonated cat back, Passat control arms and spindles, RS3 control arm bushings, TTS Strut mounts, VF Mounts, Koni Yellow Shocks, HR Springs, ECS 2 piece rotors, Autopower roll bar, Corbeau FX1 Pro Seats, Neuspeed RSE05 17x8, Michelin PSS 245/40/17Beamworkz CEO-PM ME FOR 3.2 INTAKE PLAQUES

    4. Member kgw's Avatar
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      2006 A3 S-Line 3.2 ........................................ Schricked
      03-06-2019 01:01 PM #3
      If you aren't using the ball-ended hex drivers, you are working too hard! I bought a cheap set at Harbor Freight, and then cut the proper size to length for the tool I was using. The extra angles that the ball allows are

    5. Member lamune's Avatar
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      MKV R32 #4835
      03-06-2019 02:24 PM #4
      DJNastie - thanks for the quick vid there- I think at this point I'll just go ahead as-is. With the VW slider pins I can get about 3 or 4 inches of clearance before I start getting snagged on wiring and hoses. If I have to do this again though, I think I'd just pull the whole lock carrier off for easier access to the manifold bolts.

      and KGW- I had that same thought last night actually. The ball-end would be way easier and those bolts aren't in there very tightly.

      Now, as for getting them back in- I think the ball-end won't help at all in that regard. I'm thinking of taping the bolts to the end of the straight hex bit so they don't fall off and fumbling around with the mirror to get them reinstalled.

      The process would logically be to install the outer two bolts first since those are easily installed to hold the thing in position and then get the ones in the middle going before torquing them down. I'm not sure if that's actually the best way to do it.

      I should/will probably do a write up on this to share what I learned- example: removing the three vacuum hoses at the back of the manifold. Each one is held on with a totally different method and if you're not familiar with them, you'll be there for half an hour trying to figure out how to get them off. Well, at least I was.

    6. 03-06-2019 02:27 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by lamune View Post
      DJNastie - thanks for the quick vid there- I think at this point I'll just go ahead as-is. With the VW slider pins I can get about 3 or 4 inches of clearance before I start getting snagged on wiring and hoses. If I have to do this again though, I think I'd just pull the whole lock carrier off for easier access to the manifold bolts.:
      Recommend disconnecting the fans headlights and crash sensors makes life a lot easier.


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      MKV R32 #604 Soon To Be TVS Stage 3 Supercharged United Motorsport Triple Tune, Schrick Cams, R32_deviant Manifolds, Miltek Non Resonated cat back, Passat control arms and spindles, RS3 control arm bushings, TTS Strut mounts, VF Mounts, Koni Yellow Shocks, HR Springs, ECS 2 piece rotors, Autopower roll bar, Corbeau FX1 Pro Seats, Neuspeed RSE05 17x8, Michelin PSS 245/40/17Beamworkz CEO-PM ME FOR 3.2 INTAKE PLAQUES

    7. Member lamune's Avatar
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      MKV R32 #4835
      03-06-2019 05:35 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by DJNastie View Post
      Recommend disconnecting the fans headlights and crash sensors makes life a lot easier.
      Thanks! That did give me more room to work, and the manifold and cover are finally off. Wrestling that intake out with the dipstick tube in the way was... "interesting" and I'm glad it didn't get mangled!

    8. Member kgw's Avatar
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      2006 A3 S-Line 3.2 ........................................ Schricked
      03-06-2019 11:36 PM #7
      The ball ends will help, trust me! Those 3 hoses had me using colorful language, even as I put them back in...

      Quote Originally Posted by lamune View Post
      DJN.

      and KGW- I had that same thought last night actually. The ball-end would be way easier and those bolts aren't in there very tightly.

      Now, as for getting them back in- I think the ball-end won't help at all in that regard. I'm thinking of taping the bolts to the end of the straight hex bit so they don't fall off and fumbling around with the mirror to get them reinstalled.

      The process would logically be to install the outer two bolts first since those are easily installed to hold the thing in position and then get the ones in the middle going before torquing them down. I'm not sure if that's actually the best way to do it.

      I should/will probably do a write up on this to share what I learned- example: removing the three vacuum hoses at the back of the manifold. Each one is held on with a totally different method and if you're not familiar with them, you'll be there for half an hour trying to figure out how to get them off. Well, at least I was.

    9. Member lamune's Avatar
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      MKV R32 #4835
      03-07-2019 03:51 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by kgw View Post
      The ball ends will help, trust me! Those 3 hoses had me using colorful language, even as I put them back in...
      Actually there are 4 hoses back there, which either I missed the step for the fourth one or the instructions omitted

      The ball ends were most helpful on the bolts on the passenger side since there's an A/C hose in the way there.

      I'd be curious as to what method you used to get the bolts back in.

    10. 03-07-2019 10:35 PM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by lamune View Post
      Actually there are 4 hoses back there, which either I missed the step for the fourth one or the instructions omitted

      The ball ends were most helpful on the bolts on the passenger side since there's an A/C hose in the way there.

      I'd be curious as to what method you used to get the bolts back in.
      I always used butyl tape to stick them on the end of the tool and get them in.


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    11. Member kgw's Avatar
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      03-07-2019 11:37 PM #10
      That's a good technique! i used a magnetic bit holder to get the bolts started, by hand, and then finished off with the same way I took them out.

      Quote Originally Posted by 707Stang View Post
      I always used butyl tape to stick them on the end of the tool and get them in.


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    12. Member lamune's Avatar
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      MKV R32 #4835
      03-09-2019 12:52 AM #11
      I got the bolts in yesterday actually, and it was really easy. I used a pair of small round rare earth magnets on the straight driver to hold the bolt on, and it worked perfect. Also after a while you get used to working in the mirror and it becomes less of a chore. It went back together with less hassle than it was to take it apart.

    13. Member lamune's Avatar
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      MKV R32 #4835
      03-13-2019 11:52 PM #12
      Before I wrap this thread up, for you guys who have done this (and replaced the failed diaphragm with the RKX one) - is it normal for these motors to run under a slight amount of vacuum? When I pull the oil fill cap off or the dipstick out, the engine will run a little rough and there's definitely a little negative pressure in the crank.

      I don't think I've ever opened the cap while the motor was running previously, so I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

    14. 03-14-2019 03:40 AM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by lamune View Post
      Before I wrap this thread up, for you guys who have done this (and replaced the failed diaphragm with the RKX one) - is it normal for these motors to run under a slight amount of vacuum? When I pull the oil fill cap off or the dipstick out, the engine will run a little rough and there's definitely a little negative pressure in the crank.

      I don't think I've ever opened the cap while the motor was running previously, so I'm not sure if this is normal or not.
      Mine does the exact same. Every other car I have worked on blows out when the oil fill cap was removed. I don’t know why but my r32 pulls vacuum. I’m interested to know why.

    15. Member kgw's Avatar
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      2006 A3 S-Line 3.2 ........................................ Schricked
      03-15-2019 12:19 AM #14
      Do you have a whistling coming from the small hole on the valve cover facing the firewall, drivers side? Mine had an easily heard whistle, and the oil cap had to be pulled off due to the vacuum! After replacing the valve cover in toto, no whistling, and the cap had negligible vacuum.

      Quote Originally Posted by lamune View Post
      Before I wrap this thread up, for you guys who have done this (and replaced the failed diaphragm with the RKX one) - is it normal for these motors to run under a slight amount of vacuum? When I pull the oil fill cap off or the dipstick out, the engine will run a little rough and there's definitely a little negative pressure in the crank.

      I don't think I've ever opened the cap while the motor was running previously, so I'm not sure if this is normal or not.
      Last edited by kgw; 03-15-2019 at 12:22 AM.

    16. 03-15-2019 04:26 AM #15
      [QUOTE=kgw;113162989]Do you have a whistling coming from the small hole on the valve cover facing the firewall, drivers side? Mine had an easily heard whistle, and the oil cap had to be pulled off due to the vacuum! After replacing the valve cover in toto, no whistling, and the cap had negligible vacuum.

      No, I know what you’re talking about though. Any idea what it’s for? Doesn’t make sense to me why it’s there in the first place. If it does leak, couldn’t you just fill it with solder or something instead of replacing the whole valve cover?

    17. Member kgw's Avatar
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      03-15-2019 12:35 PM #16
      That hole is integral to the "Cyclonic Circulation System," aka PCV of the fancy kind.


      Do not plug it...The failed diaphragm has to be replaced, or a complete new valve cover. The CCS is the unit inside the red rectangle. It can be removed from the valve cover, after the valve cover is removed. Then the failed diaphragm can be removed and replaced with a new one.

      Read this thread...https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ht=valve+cover

      [QUOTE=Sagginwagen;113163155]
      Quote Originally Posted by kgw View Post
      Do you have a whistling coming from the small hole on the valve cover facing the firewall, drivers side? Mine had an easily heard whistle, and the oil cap had to be pulled off due to the vacuum! After replacing the valve cover in toto, no whistling, and the cap had negligible vacuum.

      No, I know what you’re talking about though. Any idea what it’s for? Doesn’t make sense to me why it’s there in the first place. If it does leak, couldn’t you just fill it with solder or something instead of replacing the whole valve cover?

    18. Member kgw's Avatar
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      2006 A3 S-Line 3.2 ........................................ Schricked
      03-15-2019 01:00 PM #17
      Despite the vacuum on the oil filler cap, the crankcase pressure increases to the point where the main oil seals on the crankshaft will begin to fail. That's why you want to fix the CCS!

    19. 03-15-2019 04:56 PM #18
      [QUOTE=kgw;113164413]That hole is integral to the "Cyclonic Circulation System," aka PCV of the fancy kind.


      Do not plug it...The failed diaphragm has to be replaced, or a complete new valve cover. The CCS is the unit inside the red rectangle. It can be removed from the valve cover, after the valve cover is removed. Then the failed diaphragm can be removed and replaced with a new one.

      Read this thread...https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ht=valve+cover

      Quote Originally Posted by Sagginwagen View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by kgw View Post
      Do you have a whistling coming from the small hole on the valve cover facing the firewall, drivers side? Mine had an easily heard whistle, and the oil cap had to be pulled off due to the vacuum! After replacing the valve cover in toto, no whistling, and the cap had negligible vacuum.

      No, I know what you’re talking about though. Any idea what it’s for? Doesn’t make sense to me why it’s there in the first place. If it does leak, couldn’t you just fill it with solder or something instead of replacing the whole valve cover?
      Thanks

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