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    Thread: EA113 does anybody really know what's up with the internals?

    1. 03-13-2019 02:55 PM #1
      The best info I can find on the internals of my Golf R engine is this:

      Forged pistons (9.8:1)
      Stronger con-rods, con-rod bearings, crankcase and main bearings (what does this mean? Still not forged?)

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      03-13-2019 03:13 PM #2
      Quote Originally Posted by jed02gtiguy View Post
      The best info I can find on the internals of my Golf R engine is this:

      Forged pistons (9.8:1)
      Stronger con-rods, con-rod bearings, crankcase and main bearings (what does this mean? Still not forged?)
      From what I’ve read the rods are not forged. I think that’s why a lot of people do the drop in rods. Allegedly you can do that and be pretty safe.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Last edited by sloppy_robby; 03-13-2019 at 07:26 PM.

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      03-13-2019 07:10 PM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by jed02gtiguy View Post
      The best info I can find on the internals of my Golf R engine is this:

      Forged pistons (9.8:1)
      Stronger con-rods, con-rod bearings, crankcase and main bearings (what does this mean? Still not forged?)
      When they say "stronger" they are referring to stronger than the BPY model of FSI in non-R cars. The FSI rods are the weakest part of the motor in terms of power holding but even they are good for between 350ctq-400ctq. There are quite a lot of people who think they are much weaker than that and unfortunately they have spread that misconception far and wide b/c they are the louder crowd then those of us who actually know, from experience, what the FSI rods are capable of. Yours would be capable of a little more - you could probably go as high as 400wtq for a good while but you'd be pushing your luck - so in the interest of being safe I would still consider the maximum for the rods on your R to be around 400ctq. That would be on the riskier side but still safe for a couple years, generally speaking, as long as they are not already pretty fatigued by many miles or hard abuse already and of course as long as your tuner knows what they are doing. If you were to play it safer at 350-370ctq you'd be safe for quite some time. The onset of the torque plays a role in projecting what is safe and what is not too but most turbos that are capable of producing that power don't torque spike immediately enough to be a huge concern if you stay within the limits I've mentioned.

      You only need to bother with upgrading the rest of the internals if you plan to go near or above the 500bhp threshold.
      Last edited by Thy_Harrowing; 03-13-2019 at 07:16 PM.
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    6. 03-14-2019 08:56 PM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by Thy_Harrowing View Post
      When they say "stronger" they are referring to stronger than the BPY model of FSI in non-R cars. The FSI rods are the weakest part of the motor in terms of power holding but even they are good for between 350ctq-400ctq. There are quite a lot of people who think they are much weaker than that and unfortunately they have spread that misconception far and wide b/c they are the louder crowd then those of us who actually know, from experience, what the FSI rods are capable of. Yours would be capable of a little more - you could probably go as high as 400wtq for a good while but you'd be pushing your luck - so in the interest of being safe I would still consider the maximum for the rods on your R to be around 400ctq. That would be on the riskier side but still safe for a couple years, generally speaking, as long as they are not already pretty fatigued by many miles or hard abuse already and of course as long as your tuner knows what they are doing. If you were to play it safer at 350-370ctq you'd be safe for quite some time. The onset of the torque plays a role in projecting what is safe and what is not too but most turbos that are capable of producing that power don't torque spike immediately enough to be a huge concern if you stay within the limits I've mentioned.

      You only need to bother with upgrading the rest of the internals if you plan to go near or above the 500bhp threshold.
      Thanks for the input here. I appreciate it. I am already making 350ctq now at about 400 BHP (dynoed at 355 AWHP) on the stock turbo running 30 PSI on an E50 blend. The goal with the new turbo is about 450 AWHP, I think we can keep the torque around 400. Ultimately, I am going to aim for that 500 BHP with this build and I was hoping to do IE drop in rods and maybe the valve train down the road if I decide to push the RPM. The rods will get in after just a few months for sure.

    7. 03-14-2019 08:57 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by jed02gtiguy View Post
      Thanks for the input here. I appreciate it. I am already making 350ctq now at about 400 BHP (dynoed at 355 AWHP) on the stock turbo running 30 PSI on an E50 blend. The goal with the new turbo is about 450 AWHP, I think we can keep the torque around 400. Ultimately, I am going to aim for that 500 BHP with this build and I was hoping to do IE drop in rods and maybe the valve train down the road if I decide to push the RPM. The rods will get in after just a few months for sure.
      Just to add here, I have learned of 2 FSI MK5 GTI's making 420-440 WHP for over a year with stock internals. Seems like a stretch to me though!

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      03-14-2019 09:11 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by jed02gtiguy View Post
      Just to add here, I have learned of 2 FSI MK5 GTI's making 420-440 WHP for over a year with stock internals. Seems like a stretch to me though!
      Yes considering they'd be making about 420CTQ / 400WTQ they're on the ragged edge of what is safe. The only way they are getting away with that is A) they are on a big enough turbo that the lag is saving their rods; B) they likely don't track those cars because I doubt they'd have made it a year if that included a whole season of track abuse.
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    9. 03-15-2019 05:32 PM #7
      As the original owner of a 2006 GTI (K04’d for the past 2 years) who is preparing to do drop in rods, I can say I have seen too many K04 swapped BPY’s and BPG’s in VWs and Audi’s throw rods over the years to be comfortable sticking with stock rods. Most of these cars were making 330-350 crank ftlbs, albeit at relatively low RPMs.
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    10. 03-15-2019 05:53 PM #8
      With that said, the CDL in the MK6 Golf R has proven pretty strong. I have yet to see one pop on the stock K04.
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      03-15-2019 06:08 PM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by SuckSquishBangBlow View Post
      As the original owner of a 2006 GTI (K04’d for the past 2 years) who is preparing to do drop in rods, I can say I have seen too many K04 swapped BPY’s and BPG’s in VWs and Audi’s throw rods over the years to be comfortable sticking with stock rods. Most of these cars were making 330-350 crank ftlbs, albeit at relatively low RPMs.
      How many is that exactly? Because I've seen a grant total of 0 out of quite a few. As you said, they were making that torque very low and very rapidly, torque onset plays a significant role; however, even that is not enough to explain it fully, I suspect they were also high mileage motors with already fatigued rods.

      If you count the almost dozen people I know personally with K04 or BT (with mild tunes) on stock BPY internals for over a couple of years and plenty of abuse, on top of the many more that reputable VW shops and tuners support, there is definitely something to be said with regards to how much the FSI really can handle as long as it is well maintained, not super high mileage, and tuned wisely. It's much more robust than most people think.

      I'm not saying I don't believe you, nor that there can't be some outliers, but I don't think that what you've seen is representative of the bigger picture and I think that dropping in rods is an unnecessary expense to go to for a K04 (unless maybe you're planning to squeeze it for all it is worth or add W/M or E to the equation). On the other hand, dropping in rods isn't all that much work so if you can spare the cash then there's not really any other significant reason NOT to do it either.
      Last edited by Thy_Harrowing; 03-15-2019 at 06:14 PM.
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    12. 03-15-2019 09:18 PM #10
      These are the ones I remember off the top of my head.

      https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71860

      https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showt...190416&page=12

      https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196707

      https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193191

      https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201139

      https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...n-APR-k04-tune

      https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...intenance-Free <-4 posts down user:Nico

      And to be clear, I agree with you that most of the failures can be attributed to overboosting, bad tuning, or high mileage. And you're right, the FSI is a lot stronger than it gets credit for: theres a 8 second mk4 with a stock FSI crank on youtube. But consider that it is almost impossible to find TSIs or Golf Rs throwing rods with K04s, and its safe to assume many of them are also high mileage or running bad tuning, so I think it is fair to say that a K04 is running on the edge of reliability on a BPY. I will be doing drop ins because I'm generally not a gambling man.
      Last edited by SuckSquishBangBlow; 03-15-2019 at 10:38 PM.
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    13. 03-15-2019 09:26 PM #11
      I keep hearing that nobody with an R has ever thrown a stock rod. Maybe because everybody that does a stage 3 buys rods, IDK?

    14. 03-15-2019 09:43 PM #12
      For a little while I was looking at buying a set of Golf R rods and pistons and I did find 2 or 3 people selling sets because they went BT, so yes, there are Golf R owners taking that precaution.

      The only engine failure I have seen on a MK6 Golf R was a cracked piston, which is usually caused by tuning/knock or the rare casting defect.
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      03-16-2019 06:28 PM #13
      I respect and understand your decision to put the rods in, there's no reason not too aside from $$, and to be fair it's still smarter to do so than not to either way. That said, I still technically can't agree with you on the rest and those links above really don't make your case in my opinion; half of them weren't even boosting when it happened and the other ones that didn't specify what exactly they were doing at the time - in terms of how they were driving - did still specify that they had very high mileage (like the guy with 225K) or that they had pretty mild tunes with low boost and torque on their K04. ALL of that leads me to conclude that in all of those cases it was either bad tuning, bad maintenance, bad luck, a tired motor, or some combination of each. None of those instances I just read scream to me that an FSI with great maintenance, fairly low-to-mid range miles, and proper tuning, is still in danger of bending a rod on a K04.

      I am currently making 380ctq @ 24PSI on a GTX2867R which reaches full spool around 4K RPMs (4.2K at the latest depending on when I go WOT) on completely stock internals, just shy of 100K miles. I've been running this setup for a year and before that I was stage 2+ for 3 years (40K miles). I have abused it with this BT setup on the street, on the track, and I've even semi-launched which I was avoiding for awhile but finally got up the balls to do when my curiosity of my 0-60 time got the best of me (4.3s with A/S tires and a boatload of traction problems, if you were curious too lol). I say I "semi-launched" it b/c I will admit I am too nervous to full on dump the clutch with boost built up, so it was more of a very aggressive start then a lunch per se. I will also admit that the fact that the tires were not up to the task and did spin a lot probably factors into what I got away with. If I were to do a full launch with boost built on my track tires or especially on a prepped surface at the strip there's a high chance I'd bend a rod; if not the first time it'd happen eventually (and probably not too many times after).

      I also would like to point out that on one occasion several months ago when I was racing a CTSV on an open road I suddenly had a wastegate failure that caused the wastegate to stick shut; obviously I overboosted. I overboosted to somewhere over 30 PSI for a couple seconds before I realized something was amiss and let off the throttle. For the brief few seconds I was overboosting I most definitely was making much more than 400WTQ (which is considered the absolute upper threshold of safe on the BPY). Granted my tune's fueling tables were not setup for that boost so I also went lean and therefore didn't reap the full benefit of that boost but I was still definitely crossing safety thresholds by some margin and also lean at the same time; 2 recipes for disaster... my engine didn't give a damn. I think that if it can survive brief but very extreme instances like that without incident, and the other abuse I've put it through, that's a pretty good measuring stick that the BPY can handle whatever a K04 has to throw at it on a regular basis if we rule out some of those other concerns factors we've discussed like tuning, etc.

      Anyway... I know that was anecdotal and is not valid to generalize to everyone else BUT I do believe that it demonstrates what a well maintained, properly looked after, properly setup/tune BPY can handle and, conversely, I think it makes a good case for why what happened to those guys you referenced was because of factors that don't really go to the BPY rods level of reliability.


      But consider that it is almost impossible to find TSIs or Golf Rs throwing rods with K04s, and its safe to assume many of them are also high mileage or running bad tuning, so I think it is fair to say that a K04 is running on the edge of reliability on a BPY.
      I'll totally agree to all of that though. The rods on the Mk6 R and especially on the TSI platforms have enough extra robustness that they have a lot of cushion for even the fatigue of mileage and tuning issues. I know a handful of guys with BT TSIs making around 450WTQ on stock internals and abusing them too (for a couple years now). Both the FSI and TSI platforms really are a hell of a lot more capable than I think most people think.

      Now, all that being said, I do NOT think my car is immortal. In fact, don't be surprised if my one of my build thread posts in the next few months is about bending a rod because while I've gotten away with what I have so far I am only 50/50 confident on whether I'm going to get through this next track season without issue. I'm willing to gamble on it though and I'm ready to deal with the outcome if it goes poorly. Just an excuse to build it and crank up the tune lol.
      Last edited by Thy_Harrowing; 03-16-2019 at 06:38 PM.
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    16. 03-18-2019 08:45 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by SuckSquishBangBlow View Post
      For a little while I was looking at buying a set of Golf R rods and pistons and I did find 2 or 3 people selling sets because they went BT, so yes, there are Golf R owners taking that precaution.

      The only engine failure I have seen on a MK6 Golf R was a cracked piston, which is usually caused by tuning/knock or the rare casting defect.
      I found an Australian guy with an MK6R running stock everything and making 460 HP on a hub dyno. I don't really know how that works exactly, but he was also making nearly 500 FTLBS of torque at the wheels as well. He was running the R in FWD mode. He ran this turbo and full stock setup for 2.5 years and beat the snot out of it. He basically said, "somebody needed to find what the limits of the R engine are." Well, he never did. He continued to push the car until finally swapping a new turbo on. He then swapped rods and actually bent the aftermarket Carrillo rods.

      Ultimately, this is where he was prior to going Aftermarket internals and the internals were pristine when he pulled them.Search around for Hurdy Golf R and you will find him.

      DSG
      Stock internals
      Stock clutch (dsg)
      500whp
      11.08 quarter mile

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      03-18-2019 11:43 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by jed02gtiguy View Post
      I found an Australian guy with an MK6R running stock everything and making 460 HP on a hub dyno. I don't really know how that works exactly, but he was also making nearly 500 FTLBS of torque at the wheels as well. He was running the R in FWD mode. He ran this turbo and full stock setup for 2.5 years and beat the snot out of it. He basically said, "somebody needed to find what the limits of the R engine are." Well, he never did. He continued to push the car until finally swapping a new turbo on. He then swapped rods and actually bent the aftermarket Carrillo rods.

      Ultimately, this is where he was prior to going Aftermarket internals and the internals were pristine when he pulled them.Search around for Hurdy Golf R and you will find him.

      DSG
      Stock internals
      Stock clutch (dsg)
      500whp
      11.08 quarter mile

      That sounds pretty extreme given that amount of torque. In fact, come to think of it, I don't know of any BT that makes that much more torque than HP. Usually when you get into BT land the HP tends to outreach the torque not the other way around. Also even hub dynos can give skewed numbers. So I can't say I'm not a tad skeptical, but I'll leave that aside because I agree with the overall point... the stock motor is significantly more robust than people think and the limits may even be further than most of risk-takers like me think they are. I'll say this: I plan to go HARD at the track this coming season and if my motor survives I'll be pretty convinced that the limits are definitely over the 400wtq mark for a properly cared for and tuned setup.
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    18. 03-19-2019 06:34 AM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by Thy_Harrowing View Post
      That sounds pretty extreme given that amount of torque. In fact, come to think of it, I don't know of any BT that makes that much more torque than HP. Usually when you get into BT land the HP tends to outreach the torque not the other way around. Also even hub dynos can give skewed numbers. So I can't say I'm not a tad skeptical, but I'll leave that aside because I agree with the overall point... the stock motor is significantly more robust than people think and the limits may even be further than most of risk-takers like me think they are. I'll say this: I plan to go HARD at the track this coming season and if my motor survives I'll be pretty convinced that the limits are definitely over the 400wtq mark for a properly cared for and tuned setup.
      Do you still have your balance shafts, and if so have you considered disabling them for track duty?

      I found it telling that Honda removed the balance shafts from the new Civic Type R. The regular Honda 2.0T balance shafts are very similar to the 2.0TFSI (integrated into oil pump module) and Honda didn’t consider them reliable for track use.
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      03-19-2019 08:05 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by SuckSquishBangBlow View Post
      Do you still have your balance shafts, and if so have you considered disabling them for track duty?

      I found it telling that Honda removed the balance shafts from the new Civic Type R. The regular Honda 2.0T balance shafts are very similar to the 2.0TFSI (integrated into oil pump module) and Honda didn’t consider them reliable for track use.

      Disabling the balance shafts is definitely a good idea for track-duty but it isn't exactly about how much power you're making or even necessarily about how much you abuse the car per se. While those things certainly don't help they are in more of an indirect relationship to the main killers. There are 2:

      1) The balance shafts rotate at twice the RPM of the crankshaft and the balance shaft assembly does not tolerate greater than 14K RPMs (7K engine RPMs) very well; past this point the chain and sprocket for the balance shaft assembly are liable to sheer off. It's not going to happen the very first time, I had done plenty of pulls over 7K RPMs (my car redlines at 7.4K RPMs with current tuning). It might not even happen after a 100 times. You can't really put a number on it, but it is increasingly likely with that kind of driving. That said, obviously if your tuning allows you to rev that high and you have a turbo that makes good power up that high you're going to be revving over 7K RPMs frequently at the track so you're playing with fate to keep the balance shafts. Simply deleting them is the easiest and cheapest (free) solution, rather than that overrated and needless 1.8T oil pump cash grab idea that USP came up with. The only thing productive about that pump swap IS deleting the balance shafts and that can be done on the stock pump with the same effect.

      2) The other major cause of balance shaft failure is poor maintenance. Bad OCIs, bad oil, low oil level, low oil pressure, etc. It all takes a toll on the pump hard. I strongly believe that most premature failures of the balance shafts that were NOT due to #1 above are due to maintenance oversights. I think that is the main reason behind the somewhat prevalent oil pump/balance shaft assembly failures that give it a bad rap; while the sprocket is a weakpoint I haven't seen compelling evidence to believe that there is an inherent mechanical problem that is a ticking time-bomb without being aggravated by one of the above conditions.


      I should call out the fact that those balance shafts DO serve an important function. They aren’t just there for their own good. Ostensibly they are there to keep the engine quieter/smoother with decreased engine harmonics. But that’s just the result of what they actually do. What they do is, well, it’s in the name really. Don't you love how engineers pretty much always name things exactly according to their function? Through their rotational mass, the balance shafts counterbalance the crankshaft and allow the engine to operate more optimally, preventing possible engine knock at higher RPMs.

      So I urge folks to really should weigh-up whether you stand to benefit more from removing them than you do by keeping them AND to assess their risk-factor in keeping them, based on the info I provided in the link above. Because ultimately they have a purpose and that purpose is technically important for long-term engine health.
      Last edited by Thy_Harrowing; 06-15-2019 at 10:52 AM.
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    20. 04-10-2019 03:23 PM #18
      For what its worth, I just picked up a good used set of MK6 Golf R rods / pistons for cheap and will be installing them in my GTI sometime this summer with new bearings and rings. My goal with this is to swap out the stock rods for something better matched to my K04 as well as dropping the CR to 9.8:1 which should reduce/eliminate timing pull. Plus I'm always looking for an excuse to wrench. I'm also going to give the balance shafts a good looking over and will cut the gear if they don't look perfect.

      I'll update this thread with results.

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      05-31-2019 10:52 AM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by SuckSquishBangBlow View Post
      For what its worth, I just picked up a good used set of MK6 Golf R rods / pistons for cheap and will be installing them in my GTI sometime this summer with new bearings and rings. My goal with this is to swap out the stock rods for something better matched to my K04 as well as dropping the CR to 9.8:1 which should reduce/eliminate timing pull. Plus I'm always looking for an excuse to wrench. I'm also going to give the balance shafts a good looking over and will cut the gear if they don't look perfect.

      I'll update this thread with results.


      Curious if you got around to this yet?
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    22. 06-12-2019 02:47 PM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by Thy_Harrowing View Post
      Curious if you got around to this yet?
      Just got it running again yesterday. Here are some pics of the fun and some comparisons between the Golf R and GTI internals:

      Everything came apart without incident. The engine is really clean inside and the rod bearings were in great shape for 118K miles:





      The Golf R rods have larger bolts and are 12.4% heavier, 17.5% wider web and 19.4% wider flange relative to the GTI rods. The Golf R rod bearings are also moly/graphite coated unlike the plain metal GTI bearings (not pictured):







      The Golf R pistons are similar to the GTI pistons aside from the lower CR crown and have a rectangular face internal bevel top compression ring, unlike the GTI, which is supposed to be better for lots of boost.



      Cheap Amazon ring pliers an compressor worked great:





      I will be breaking the motor in using the IE guidelines and once I can give it full boost I'll update with logs.
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      06-12-2019 07:47 PM #21
      Good info and a job well done! Looking forward to seeing some data after break-in phase!
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      06-15-2019 02:06 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by jed02gtiguy View Post
      I found an Australian guy with an MK6R running stock everything and making 460 HP on a hub dyno. I don't really know how that works exactly, but he was also making nearly 500 FTLBS of torque at the wheels as well. He was running the R in FWD mode. He ran this turbo and full stock setup for 2.5 years and beat the snot out of it. He basically said, "somebody needed to find what the limits of the R engine are." Well, he never did. He continued to push the car until finally swapping a new turbo on. He then swapped rods and actually bent the aftermarket Carrillo rods.

      Ultimately, this is where he was prior to going Aftermarket internals and the internals were pristine when he pulled them.Search around for Hurdy Golf R and you will find him.

      DSG
      Stock internals
      Stock clutch (dsg)
      500whp
      11.08 quarter mile
      I am familiar with John "Hurdy" as I've been on the UK forum(he's from Yorkshire UK) for years and he and I have discussed a bit regarding mine and his builds; with him helping me more than the other way around...mostly regarding the next chapter I want to take mine from its current K04 setup. He was aiming to get his Golf R into the 10's. This is his build: https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/2...roject-thread/

      He was always on to sticking with oem bits for the purpose to show they are strong but also unnecessary to go aftermarket with most bits. I believe he now wishes he had stuck with oem rods in his MK6 Golf R.
      Last edited by ROH ECHT; 06-15-2019 at 02:11 PM.
      K04 PLAY...`07 GTI/GIAC K04 & DSG Tunes/AWE DV/AUTOTECH HPFP/TORQBYTE PM3/TTRS LPFP/S3 INJ's&fmic/RS4 fprv/FORGE fmTc, WGA & T-B HOSE/TECH.TUNING TB/BSH Eng.&Trans MOUNT's/NSP BOOST GAGE/AP Lite-PULLEY/NEUS. P-FLO&BOOST PIPES/13.2"BBK/BILSTEIN B8 DAMPERS/W.A.L.K./H&R SS SPRINGS+F&R ARB's/TSW 8X18 NURB's...ZOOM DIS! 2007 Volkswagen GTI : 12.823 @ 112.050 MPH

    25. Member ROH ECHT's Avatar
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      `07 gti K04'd
      06-15-2019 02:21 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by Thy_Harrowing View Post
      That sounds pretty extreme given that amount of torque. In fact, come to think of it, I don't know of any BT that makes that much more torque than HP.
      This may be due to his GIAC tuning. My GIAC-K04 High Output tune is when at best on race fuel; 340ish BHP and 363 lb*ft. This is more K04 torque than you see with other tuners shelf-K04 files for the MK5's FSI. Perhaps it is something else or the combination of bits in his build...but his was a custom Stage 3 tune by GIAC and also a mode for race fuel with WMI.

      So, are you not also changing the camshafts given that you are also swapping the pistons?
      For example; exhaust cam for...
      GTI: 06F 109 102 E
      Golf R: 06F 109 102 F

      ...and intake camshaft
      GTI: 06F 109 101 J
      Golf R: 06F 109 101 K

      ...IIRC, even the timing chain and the valves vary between the R and GTI. With that said, I would want to stick with just a rod upgrade rather than changing pistons without all of the other bits of the Golf R. I've been planning to just get a Golf R long block whenever my engine is in need of a massive rescue.
      Last edited by ROH ECHT; 06-15-2019 at 10:18 PM.
      K04 PLAY...`07 GTI/GIAC K04 & DSG Tunes/AWE DV/AUTOTECH HPFP/TORQBYTE PM3/TTRS LPFP/S3 INJ's&fmic/RS4 fprv/FORGE fmTc, WGA & T-B HOSE/TECH.TUNING TB/BSH Eng.&Trans MOUNT's/NSP BOOST GAGE/AP Lite-PULLEY/NEUS. P-FLO&BOOST PIPES/13.2"BBK/BILSTEIN B8 DAMPERS/W.A.L.K./H&R SS SPRINGS+F&R ARB's/TSW 8X18 NURB's...ZOOM DIS! 2007 Volkswagen GTI : 12.823 @ 112.050 MPH

    26. 06-16-2019 07:43 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
      This may be due to his GIAC tuning. My GIAC-K04 High Output tune is when at best on race fuel; 340ish BHP and 363 lb*ft. This is more K04 torque than you see with other tuners shelf-K04 files for the MK5's FSI. Perhaps it is something else or the combination of bits in his build...but his was a custom Stage 3 tune by GIAC and also a mode for race fuel with WMI.

      So, are you not also changing the camshafts given that you are also swapping the pistons?
      For example; exhaust cam for...
      GTI: 06F 109 102 E
      Golf R: 06F 109 102 F

      ...and intake camshaft
      GTI: 06F 109 101 J
      Golf R: 06F 109 101 K

      ...IIRC, even the timing chain and the valves vary between the R and GTI. With that said, I would want to stick with just a rod upgrade rather than changing pistons without all of the other bits of the Golf R. I've been planning to just get a Golf R long block whenever my engine is in need of a massive rescue.
      I don't plan on putting in CRZA cams. Arin at APR put them in his K04 GTI and said it made minimal gains, even when APR calibrated for them.

      I did a lot of research on p/n differences between the CRZA and BPY leading up to this swap. The timing components are the same, as are the radiator,, valves, crank, block, oil pump, HPFP etc. The parts that are unique in the CRZA, as far as I can tell, are the head, turbo, injectors, cams, pistons, rods, thermostat, intercooler, boost sensor and parts related too the DV locaiton.

      I drove the car a lot this weekend after changing out the break in oil and it feels great. No codes and no hiccups. I did the first few WOT pulls today and it felt strong. I'll post some comparison logs soon.
      Last edited by SuckSquishBangBlow; 06-17-2019 at 06:54 AM.
      MKV GTI - FSI K04 - SRE Clutch - IE HPFP

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