As stated before; I would delete (leave unwired) that and the oil pressure control module unit if you have one. Use a sensor for an air-cooled vw in the side of the head and wire it to the bulb in your dash. This gives you a simple and reliable system for checking that oil pressure is making to the top of the motor, where it needs to be. Typically my dash light stays on for 2 or 3 seconds after start up, until pressure builds to the head. I like it that way.
Last edited by mokoosh; 06-21-2019 at 09:30 AM.
Do yourself a favor, shop brand, then find the place that has the best price for that brand. Think about the warranty issues you may have. Any discount from online purchases may not be worth it. Non bendable parts are worth the extra money to buy local [ie Headgaskets].
Stay away from anything from Meyle and URO. There are exceptions but not many. China gets a bad rap, but they kinda earned it. Many name brand companies have parts made in China and they hold up better than companies that offer really cheap parts. I have found that lifetime warranty parts at the box auto parts stores are not worth it, unless you like replacing that part more than once and usually on the side of the road.
I had one back in mid 80's, put some old 15 inch GTI rims and a front spoiler on it and it will stick to the road like a Mario Kart. I loaded mine with 2000 pounds of tile and it accelerated the same as empty...no turbo.
Solid motor, they just have a tendency to wear block and cause a lip edge at the top of cylinder bore. Injectors are cheap. Easy rebuild and well worth it. I put 150k on original block and probably another 100k on it before the car started falling apart. Watch those side vent windows. They are glued and one day you will open it and it will keep on going out the hole. I loved the seat belt mounted to door frame, easy to close door, just yank on belt to close. Small fuel tank and put a round spare in the tire well. Held 24 gallons total and could drive over 1000 miles between fill ups. Keep in mind Diesel was not as available in the mid 80s.
Enjoy it. Great Pizza delivery car too.
Parts... call Pelican Parts. Everything a Mercedes diesel uses your car will.
get a good brand thermostat; stant or wahler
thermostats always seem to run hotter, I get the 180F and it runs 190 on the highway like it should.
If you get a 190, odds are it will run at 200F - I've returned many a thermostat, sometimes they run way too hot.
Might want to get one at the local auto store just for the easy return option.
Rockauto has the thermostat gasket for pennys, get a bunch of em - the waterpump also uses the same gasket where the housing bolts to the block.
Last edited by sgnimj96; 06-21-2019 at 10:09 PM.
What you need: camshaft lock tool (and feeler guage shims to cut up, important), IP locking pin, tensioner wrench (optional), and dial guage that threads into the pump. The most important thing is to use these tools carefully, methodically and understand what you are doing and why.
Tip: use a vice grip on the cam when tightening the sprocket, don't rely on the cam holder tool. Broke the end of my shaft once.
Anyone have experience with this?
EWK Dial Test Indicator Set Diesel Fuel Engine Pump Timing Gauge & Adapter for VW Audi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1QTSF2..._XfLeDb3451R4R
Any suggestions on tools is appreciated. Been shopping around a lot, just cant make a decision on IP and timing belt tools.