Before continuing the model i share with you my (1 of 2 ) real 1:1 gti
And this one is my daily
The first one was my never forgotten gti 16v
After 2 working week on my mk3 1:1, I continued with engine.
I remade the hose coolant. I simulated the use of metal hose with silicone joint
After this I started to made the first part of engine harness. i self made the bracket fixxed on gearbox to fix the plug of harness
To this connection i plugged the wire for:
- oil pressure
- oil temperatur
- knocking sensor
- alternator cable
- water temperatur
- engine temperatur
- distributor cable
I also self made another wiring part totally missed
- idle motor cable
- water tempaeratur head
- rail injection cable
To this harness i also add the wiring of MAF sensor
Finally i added the wiring no starter motor
I start to work on radiator. In the kit the radiator was totally absebnt, just only fairing and fan.
I opened the vents hole to evacuate the cold air (in the future i’ll decide if mantein rubber flap with alu stopper or selfmade a new exhaust vent)
I used a radiator from an 1/10 rc and i adapted it with lego brick to the shape of fairing....now it seems just little bit a cooling radiator
I modified the radiator for the extra air inlet hose for the extra oil cooler.
I holed inside engine bay for front brake lines and fuel lines
Finally i give 2 primer coats to underbody and engine bay. Tomorrow i painted it with new color: sky blue ral 5015
I continued the work on engine.
After adding the 3 missing exhaust ducts, i painted the manifold in alu and 2 final smoke coats.
To give some burn look i used tamiya powder wheatering.
I also wrapped the warm air filter duct with aluminium foil.
I started the modded work on radiator fairing. With modified lego brick i selfmade a new cold air extractor.
I also add weld lines, new joint hose and metal mesh.
I little detailed the cranck, waterpump and alternator pulley. With insulating tape i self made the belt.
Finally i holed and insert some pins for the new hose connection for MAF sensor.
Finally a pre test fitting un engine bay.
Some few progress but a big solving problem with engine (the extra add coolant hose to heater core)
In the kit was present only one hose that have a particular shape. This hose creates some impeding (specially to extra brake lines added previous)
So i decided to remade the new hoses using a sprue.
To maintain the hose in position, i made a hole and i insert a pin in each hose (after a little moulding job)
I dry fitted the hose and i checked the clearance on firewall for extra add of brake lines.
It’s seems fits good, next step painting and adding silicone hose joint.
I finally fitted engine inside bay.
Before fitting engine i finished job on master cylinder brake. I add som nut to ricreate the nut joint for brake lines
I used some stripes of insulating tape to create fixing grommet for brake lines mounted on firewall.
With styrene i selfmade the exhaust heat shield and finally i taped it with alu tapes.
I also selfmade the bracket for vapor oil canister, and i also added 2 nuts.
I used tamiya braided hose for 2 fuel lines, and i holed the firewall to insert the first part of engine wiring.
Finally i fixxed the engine and i connected the vapor oil canister to vent joint on rocker cover.
Before continuing with engine, i made with insulating tape the inside mudguard. If was a oem ride eight i could use a 0.25 mm styrene sheet. But if I used it, my chassis would be raised....and this is not good.
I fitted the selfmade hoses for heater core.
Remembering the Delta HF WRC water canister, I decided to reproduce it also in my GTI.
I started my work using a AA dummy batteries.
After some work, I obtained the wanted shape. I holed the tank for future connection and future bracket on engine struct.
Finally i coated it with bare metal foil and i added hoses using a tube with same color of G12 liquid.
I repainted the fan with gray haze, and i add some detail to radiator fairing (some alu tape on top face of radiator, some alu tape on fan motor and connection for hose to canister and temp sensor)
I also fitted the selfmade clutch cable.
To maintain a little bit clean engine bay, I decided to build a partially hidden engine wiring (all the invisible wiring run inside the chassis)
Yesterday i quite finished engine coolant system. Just only the final hose from canister to radiator.
I also create another partially hidden engine wiring (it runs nearly the struct and hides inside the left chassis spar)
I cabled the rear light switch, the speedo cable and the oli temp sendor for gearbox and differential (this last is my add and not present on real GTI)
Then i worked for fitting the hose from canister to radiator: With insulating tape i selfmade grommet to fix hose on side left structs. This hose will be partially hidden from extra oil cooler and battery (battery will be lifted to permit the run of other wiring)
Finally i made new bracket for extra oil cooler (i used the present hole inside the engine bay)
Engine 90% completed: just to finish carbon coating of bmc cda airbox, carbon fairing of extra oil cooler and some waterslide decal for engine.
I lifted the battery to permit the housing of coolant pipe and wiring of fan and water temp radiator bulb.
I full remade the throttle cable bracket and new cable with adjusting nut.
Remade the vacuum hose for servobrake.
I connected with braided hose the extra oil cooler radiator
I added the heatshield for all exhaust system (the exhaust is only to show the line....will be total remade)
Finally my PB vs the “out of box”
Amazing detail and accuracy! Keep up the high quality work and updates!
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Mk3 Jetta GRM Challenge Build:
I carbon decal the CDA filter airbox and the oil cooler fairing. Also i add the oil filter decal. Other engine decals will come later
Finished the engine, my attention swing to one of my preferite parts of car: the exhaust system
Like on my real gti i deleted central an middle silincer to obtain a direct flow exhaust
I also deleted the oem twin tailpipes and added a big bore tailpipe like sport inox exhaust N group (like Bastuck sport auspuff)
I used the chassis as template to finf correct shape of my new exhaust system
I coated it with a first primer coat to check anything to rework. Then putty and a new paper sanding. Then i reprimered, i coated with white aluminium paint and a final smoke TS71 coat (specially in the first section of the system)
While I'm waiting the drying of exhaust paint, i redid all the brake lines fitted on underbody. I fitted the chassis grommet and i uses 1 mm metal wire for new brake lines. I self made new hydraulic joint for brake lines and i jointed them on new rear braking distributor.
I also added new selfmade alu clamps with bolts on exhaust, i added some weld lines.
I finished the work on manifold with thermal banding.
To reach the right color i painted it with a first coat of titanium gold and finally a smoke coat
Suddendly i used the tamiya powdwers to light the exhaust point (blu and red burn effect). I also lighted the tailpipe to simulate the heating due backfires.
I also wheatered the chassis heatshield and finally i fitted my full illegal exhaust system..[lol]
I full remade the fuel pump and filter. I added new top studio joint and i repainted all fuel pump and filter
I differently painted the joint for inlet and return in red and blu metallic
I added some photo etched bolt to head of fuel pump
I also changed all hoses with braided hoses.
I self made new hose from fuel pump to engine.
Finally i revisited the fuel tank working on stripes in bare metal and adding some fixing bolts
I full repainted in matt black (2 final clear coat matt) the subframe, arms, rear axle and front engine bar
I detailed some bolts and added fixing nuts for the arms
In the past months i mistakenly painted in gun metal the bracket for rear axle. In the real gti this piece is part of the chassis....so i repainted in new blu color like frame.
I finished the job with front and rear axle. To fit properly the new rims i machined a rc 1/10 hub adapter from 4,5 to 6 mm. With this new size now the rc center adapter fit on hub (disc are only dry fitted for have right size and clearence)
In the nexts post i’ll write a “flashback post” to show the previous work do on absorber fully reworked and converted in airride system.
The extra engine mount bracket works properly with right wheel shaft. Also the shafts can work good with chassis notching
I fitted the stabilizer bar and finally i painted the chassis rubber grommets
I fitted the bodyshell to check if all is good and for have test with new N group tailpipe.