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    Thread: EA888 Gen 3 Crank Walk Issues for 6MT Ownerz

    1. 10-17-2019 01:35 PM #101
      Quote Originally Posted by r784 View Post
      Less prevelant on later models, but does still occationally occur. The thrust bearing design is... skimpy.

      What most people refer to when tslking sbout high failure rate on early gen3 ea888 is the rumours say that there was a manufacturing/assembly issue for small window of time. This allegedly caused unusually high number of failures, and that its since been fixed.

      The thrust bearing design itself though is still the same.
      I've been trying to find this info for a bit now.

      From what you've heard, is the fault a defective thrust bearing? Or engine was assembled incorrectly?

      Love to know some reasoning behind the crank walks

      Sent from my LG-H915 using Tapatalk

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    3. 03-21-2020 09:16 PM #102
      reviving this because ive yet to read any rhyme or reason to this issue... i know its happening, and i know after market clutches appear to be accelerating the failure... but like others have asked, IE built motor still utilizes OEM Thrust bearing. so what exactly is going on?

      is my only option to trade in for a DSG to have peace of mind? lol
      2018 Golf R IGM 6spd

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      03-21-2020 09:36 PM #103
      Quote Originally Posted by Memo6453 View Post
      reviving this because ive yet to read any rhyme or reason to this issue... i know its happening, and i know after market clutches appear to be accelerating the failure... but like others have asked, IE built motor still utilizes OEM Thrust bearing. so what exactly is going on?

      is my only option to trade in for a DSG to have peace of mind? lol
      To try to prevent this from happening I've been doing the following...

      -When starting the car clutch in until the engine starts. Then clutch out as soon as it starts.
      -Never keeping the clutch pressed in when at a red light.

      I'd like to do a dq500 swap, but the cost is a tad steep to do the whole swapperoo.

    5. Member Disturbd1's Avatar
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      03-26-2020 12:59 AM #104
      Quote Originally Posted by PwrUsr View Post
      To try to prevent this from happening I've been doing the following...

      -When starting the car clutch in until the engine starts. Then clutch out as soon as it starts.
      -Never keeping the clutch pressed in when at a red light.

      I'd like to do a dq500 swap, but the cost is a tad steep to do the whole swapperoo.
      I believe the number one thing theorized was the lack of lubrication during initial start with depressing the clutch. If you find a way to bypass the clutch to start, I'm sure every manual owner will buy you a . I too try to keep clutch engagement to a minimum.

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      03-26-2020 08:30 AM #105
      Quote Originally Posted by Disturbd1 View Post
      I believe the number one thing theorized was the lack of lubrication during initial start with depressing the clutch.
      But of course that startup lubrication condition applies to every other motor with a manual gearbox and clutch. Yet others don't generally have a problem. Either VW has had a manufacturing problem with that component, or the design itself is inadequate for the application — like the clutch itself.

      When it comes to this powertrain the word 'depressing' certainly belongs in the same sentence as 'clutch'.

      Neil

    7. Member DocWyte's Avatar
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      03-26-2020 10:23 AM #106
      Quote Originally Posted by Disturbd1 View Post
      I believe the number one thing theorized was the lack of lubrication during initial start with depressing the clutch. If you find a way to bypass the clutch to start, I'm sure every manual owner will buy you a . I too try to keep clutch engagement to a minimum.

      Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
      I find that highly unlikely. If that was truly the case we'd see a huge amount of failures with the stock clutch.
      The DD : '19 Golf R, Indium, 6MT
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      03-26-2020 10:26 AM #107
      Quote Originally Posted by DocWyte View Post
      I find that highly unlikely. If that was truly the case we'd see a huge amount of failures with the stock clutch.
      There have been failures on many stock cars. This is but one of multiple forums that raise the topic. It was extremely prevalent in late 2014 year manufacturing dates, happening on bone stock cars. Keep in mind, this is not my personal theory; others have speculated based on several reports of crank walk on stock clutches.

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      03-26-2020 10:37 AM #108
      I know there have been failures on bone stock cars. However if this was truly the case, we'd see widespread failures, far more than what we are...
      The DD : '19 Golf R, Indium, 6MT
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      03-26-2020 01:18 PM #109
      Quote Originally Posted by Disturbd1 View Post
      I believe the number one thing theorized was the lack of lubrication during initial start with depressing the clutch. If you find a way to bypass the clutch to start, I'm sure every manual owner will buy you a . I too try to keep clutch engagement to a minimum.

      Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
      There's actually a thread on doing just that here:
      https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index...-maybe.371131/

    11. 03-27-2020 06:07 AM #110
      Quote Originally Posted by PwrUsr View Post
      To try to prevent this from happening I've been doing the following...

      -When starting the car clutch in until the engine starts. Then clutch out as soon as it starts.
      -Never keeping the clutch pressed in when at a red light.

      I'd like to do a dq500 swap, but the cost is a tad steep to do the whole swapperoo.
      Can you please list or link exactly what parts are needed for a 6MT to dsg swap? Seems like it’s better to just get another vehicle with dsg. But interested in what parts are needed besides trans.


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      03-27-2020 11:08 AM #111
      Quote Originally Posted by newvwdude777 View Post
      Can you please list or link exactly what parts are needed for a 6MT to dsg swap? Seems like it’s better to just get another vehicle with dsg. But interested in what parts are needed besides trans.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      From what I've found so far you'd need at the very least the following...
      - shifter assembly
      - DSG ECM
      - wiring harness for the transmission
      - Gas & brake peddles from a DSG car
      - possibly both front axles
      - possibly prop shaft
      - maybe rear differential from a DSG car (can't confirm that)
      - and obviously the DSG transmission itself
      - if you have a R you'd also need the additional aux cooler that goes on the driver's side. This would also need to include the mounting hardware and plastic liners and ducting.

      There's alot to it and if you can get your hands on a donor car to get all the needed parts (wwe.copart.com is the best bet) that would honestly be your best bet so that you're not searching for parts that may be needed.

    13. 03-28-2020 07:21 AM #112
      Quote Originally Posted by PwrUsr View Post
      From what I've found so far you'd need at the very least the following...
      - shifter assembly
      - DSG ECM
      - wiring harness for the transmission
      - Gas & brake peddles from a DSG car
      - possibly both front axles
      - possibly prop shaft
      - maybe rear differential from a DSG car (can't confirm that)
      - and obviously the DSG transmission itself
      - if you have a R you'd also need the additional aux cooler that goes on the driver's side. This would also need to include the mounting hardware and plastic liners and ducting.

      There's alot to it and if you can get your hands on a donor car to get all the needed parts (wwe.copart.com is the best bet) that would honestly be your best bet so that you're not searching for parts that may be needed.
      thanks. quite the undertaking.. i was thinking if there is anything at all, even the slightest, with dealer coding involved for the swap though. i.e. control unit coding or something that the normal person doesn't have that dealer tool.

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      03-28-2020 11:06 AM #113
      Quote Originally Posted by newvwdude777 View Post
      thanks. quite the undertaking.. i was thinking if there is anything at all, even the slightest, with dealer coding involved for the swap though. i.e. control unit coding or something that the normal person doesn't have that dealer tool.
      We are probably in the same position as I've thought of a DSG swap at one point or another for various reasons. People will say just trade for a newer DSG model R but when you have already done so much DIY to your current car the thought of putting the car back to stock and putting most of the same parts on what otherwise is the same car...makes want to appreciate that I can drive a manual now and just ignore crank walk all together.
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      03-28-2020 11:22 AM #114
      Nobody does this swap because it makes no financial sense to do it. I get the sweat equity portion but you're still much better off taking your car back to stock and then buying a factory DSG car. I wouldn't even think of doing that swap on my own, I'm sure there's quite a bit of coding that the dealer needs to do and they're not going to have a clue.

      I recently rented a Golf wagon that was DSG because I had ankle surgery and couldn't drive my car. While I appreciated the fact that I could drive it, it was incredibly boring. I know this is just my opinion but all a DSG really is, is a fancy automatic transmission. Most the time I'm going to leave it in D and that's it. I don't drag race, won't be using launch control on the street and don't have a nasty commute with heavy traffic. So there's simply no reason for me to choose it over a 6MT, if I lived somewhere that I had a really bad commute then I'd get it.

      I'm not concerned about crank walk. Does it happen? Sure but not in such a widespread degree that you should think about doing a DSG swap or selling your car to replace it with a DSG unless that's something you want for other reasons.
      The DD : '19 Golf R, Indium, 6MT
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      03-28-2020 12:28 PM #115
      Quote Originally Posted by newvwdude777 View Post
      thanks. quite the undertaking.. i was thinking if there is anything at all, even the slightest, with dealer coding involved for the swap though. i.e. control unit coding or something that the normal person doesn't have that dealer tool.
      There'll defiantly be coding involved, however that part doesn't scare me as I know people that could assist me with this venture. The issue I see is financial. It doesn't make the most sense if I'm just swapping the transmission.

      Quote Originally Posted by MiamiBourne View Post
      We are probably in the same position as I've thought of a DSG swap at one point or another for various reasons. People will say just trade for a newer DSG model R but when you have already done so much DIY to your current car the thought of putting the car back to stock and putting most of the same parts on what otherwise is the same car...makes want to appreciate that I can drive a manual now and just ignore crank walk all together.
      I'm pretty much in this boat after thinking about it for a while. My next car if performance oriented will likely be a DSG car. But at the same time rowing my own gears is so much more satisfying then letting the car do it for me :p

      Quote Originally Posted by DocWyte View Post
      Nobody does this swap because it makes no financial sense to do it. I get the sweat equity portion but you're still much better off taking your car back to stock and then buying a factory DSG car. I wouldn't even think of doing that swap on my own, I'm sure there's quite a bit of coding that the dealer needs to do and they're not going to have a clue.

      I recently rented a Golf wagon that was DSG because I had ankle surgery and couldn't drive my car. While I appreciated the fact that I could drive it, it was incredibly boring. I know this is just my opinion but all a DSG really is, is a fancy automatic transmission. Most the time I'm going to leave it in D and that's it. I don't drag race, won't be using launch control on the street and don't have a nasty commute with heavy traffic. So there's simply no reason for me to choose it over a 6MT, if I lived somewhere that I had a really bad commute then I'd get it.

      I'm not concerned about crank walk. Does it happen? Sure but not in such a widespread degree that you should think about doing a DSG swap or selling your car to replace it with a DSG unless that's something you want for other reasons.
      The only way I'd do the DSG swap is if a RS3 engine was also coming along for the ride
      And the best way of doing this is to buy a donor car so that all the parts that would be needed for the swap can easily be swapped over.

      It saddens me that the wagon version of the RS3 and also the RSQ3 will likely never make it state side. I LOVE hatchbacks after owning three golfs and wouldn't trade them for anything else but another hatch

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      03-29-2020 10:03 AM #116
      I would've dealt with the DSG if I could've bought the RS3 Sportbak that everyone else can get
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      06-30-2020 03:18 PM #117
      Welp folks, it happened.

      About a month and a half ago now I was driving and noticed some odd behavior.
      • Revs weren't hanging as much between shifts (felt like more resistance)
      • Car had a rough idle with the clutch in when stopped (vac surge, lots of NVH)

      I ended up turning around and went right home. On my drive back, suspicious of what the issue was, I tried the hard right hand turn trick to see if I could get the clutch pedal to stick down and I couldnt.

      By the time I got home the car went "back to normal" as in none of the above were able to be replicated. I was still weary though as something didn't seem right.

      Ended up draining the oil the next day only to find a bunch of glitter... Cut up the filter and found some decent slivers in there but nothing massive.

      Called up the local dealer that was supposedly mod friendly and explained the situation of crank walk, me being tuned, the clutch, etc and was told that they should be able to work with me and I should bring it in to have the pan dropped for a basic inspection. I figured at worst I would be out the ~$150 discussed for the service visit so I had the car towed via VW Roadside (for free mind you, thanks CPO) and left it at the dealer for about a week. Upon their instruction I dropped the car off without oil and a filter in it and left a note stating this and to not start the engine. I included the contaminated oil in the passenger footwell for inspection. Finally got the call from their writer stating that they were denying any warranty work due to the TD1 flag and I'll be billed for the diagnostic (that didn't happen) and oil and a filter... Basically, they got the car, filled it with oil, drove it around, and then scanned it with ODIS at which point it threw the TD1 and they stopped doing any and all work.

      I ended up arguing with them about this process because I never approved nor was asked about the oil and they never dropped the pan to inspect for damage, just ran the scan and looked at the oil I'd provided. So they took a car that was delivered with a failing engine and drove it more... Needless to say I was pissed, so I fought to get the oil and filter off the invoice (which they did) and towed it to an independent shop in the area where it has been for over six weeks now.

      They essentially let it sit for about a month before getting the engine out.
      • Week 1: No update
      • Week 2: Dropped pan, found metal, could move crank by hand, doesn't look good, need to pull engine.
      • Week 3: Nothing.
      • Week 4: Nothing
      • Week 5: Engine pulled by Friday
      • Week 6: Nothing until I called them out and now the ball is rolling
      • Week 7: Brings us to today, engine is out and apart.

      So after finally getting word that the engine is being torn down, I get the call eventually that the washer had not fallen into the pan yet, but was sent a picture of a definitely destroyed trans side thrust washer. Per their tech's claim, the bottom end is still usable and everything else looked okay. The only thing that took any damage besides the washer was the crank itself.

      It appears that I caught this just in time as any longer and that washer could've fallen and the entire engine would be toast. Still, not going to be a cheap repair. I'm working with them now and just got the crank on order but that'll probably be a few weeks out. We're going to have a local machine shop modify the center main bearing cap to accept a 1.8T lower thrust washer as this is a "fix" that's been pioneered by some genius swedes and performed by some cunning Canadians. The idea is that it'd take a good amount of stress off of the one half face washer and also prevent that one from being able to fall should it wear past that point.

      At any rate, it's been a stressful process to say the least. If you are a 6MT owner and experience ANY odd clutch related behavior, I'd certainly recommend the early oil change to inspect what comes out for any signs of wear. Better to catch it early than when it's too late, and certainly worth the $50 an oil change costs for the peace of mind should you find nothing.

      If anyone has any questions just let me know. I can provide pictures of carnage once I've got the crank in hand.

      Also I should note, I don't blame the shop for taking so long. It's a tough time right now, they've got a lot on their plate I'm sure. Would I have preferred my car to have breezed right through? Sure, but that doesn't always happen. They're a good shop, they do good work, and their pricing is generally reasonable albeit on the higher side of that spectrum.
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    19. Member Disturbd1's Avatar
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      06-30-2020 03:55 PM #118
      Quote Originally Posted by oTurtlez View Post
      Welp folks, it happened.

      About a month and a half ago now I was driving and noticed some odd behavior.
      • Revs weren't hanging as much between shifts (felt like more resistance)
      • Car had a rough idle with the clutch in when stopped (vac surge, lots of NVH)

      I ended up turning around and went right home. On my drive back, suspicious of what the issue was, I tried the hard right hand turn trick to see if I could get the clutch pedal to stick down and I couldnt.

      By the time I got home the car went "back to normal" as in none of the above were able to be replicated. I was still weary though as something didn't seem right.

      Ended up draining the oil the next day only to find a bunch of glitter... Cut up the filter and found some decent slivers in there but nothing massive.

      Called up the local dealer that was supposedly mod friendly and explained the situation of crank walk, me being tuned, the clutch, etc and was told that they should be able to work with me and I should bring it in to have the pan dropped for a basic inspection. I figured at worst I would be out the ~$150 discussed for the service visit so I had the car towed via VW Roadside (for free mind you, thanks CPO) and left it at the dealer for about a week. Upon their instruction I dropped the car off without oil and a filter in it and left a note stating this and to not start the engine. I included the contaminated oil in the passenger footwell for inspection. Finally got the call from their writer stating that they were denying any warranty work due to the TD1 flag and I'll be billed for the diagnostic (that didn't happen) and oil and a filter... Basically, they got the car, filled it with oil, drove it around, and then scanned it with ODIS at which point it threw the TD1 and they stopped doing any and all work.

      I ended up arguing with them about this process because I never approved nor was asked about the oil and they never dropped the pan to inspect for damage, just ran the scan and looked at the oil I'd provided. So they took a car that was delivered with a failing engine and drove it more... Needless to say I was pissed, so I fought to get the oil and filter off the invoice (which they did) and towed it to an independent shop in the area where it has been for over six weeks now.

      They essentially let it sit for about a month before getting the engine out.
      • Week 1: No update
      • Week 2: Dropped pan, found metal, could move crank by hand, doesn't look good, need to pull engine.
      • Week 3: Nothing.
      • Week 4: Nothing
      • Week 5: Engine pulled by Friday
      • Week 6: Nothing until I called them out and now the ball is rolling
      • Week 7: Brings us to today, engine is out and apart.

      So after finally getting word that the engine is being torn down, I get the call eventually that the washer had not fallen into the pan yet, but was sent a picture of a definitely destroyed trans side thrust washer. Per their tech's claim, the bottom end is still usable and everything else looked okay. The only thing that took any damage besides the washer was the crank itself.

      It appears that I caught this just in time as any longer and that washer could've fallen and the entire engine would be toast. Still, not going to be a cheap repair. I'm working with them now and just got the crank on order but that'll probably be a few weeks out. We're going to have a local machine shop modify the center main bearing cap to accept a 1.8T lower thrust washer as this is a "fix" that's been pioneered by some genius swedes and performed by some cunning Canadians. The idea is that it'd take a good amount of stress off of the one half face washer and also prevent that one from being able to fall should it wear past that point.

      At any rate, it's been a stressful process to say the least. If you are a 6MT owner and experience ANY odd clutch related behavior, I'd certainly recommend the early oil change to inspect what comes out for any signs of wear. Better to catch it early than when it's too late, and certainly worth the $50 an oil change costs for the peace of mind should you find nothing.

      If anyone has any questions just let me know. I can provide pictures of carnage once I've got the crank in hand.

      Also I should note, I don't blame the shop for taking so long. It's a tough time right now, they've got a lot on their plate I'm sure. Would I have preferred my car to have breezed right through? Sure, but that doesn't always happen. They're a good shop, they do good work, and their pricing is generally reasonable albeit on the higher side of that spectrum.
      At the risk of seeming a bit dull, I have some questions. Thank you for your post, lots of good information there.

      Regarding the dealership, (this is more a question for the forum than you in particular) is it the general/expected experience that even a mod-friendly dealer would reject or deny warranty work for something like this? Granted, I know the percentage of those of us impacted isn't as high as, say 50%, but it's common enough that it comes up a ton in the forums and on Facebook groups as well. This means VW can't possibly deny build quality or engineering flaws on this transmission. Regardless of mods, since it's occurred on plenty of stock setups, could it not be argued that it's justifiable to push back on this? The alternative in worse-case scenario is a new engine, which is something most of us don't and can't afford to plan for.

      Are the symptoms pretty much limited to the clutch holding/sinking on a hard right-hand turn + revs not being normal + rough idle with clutch engaged?

      I just had a ****ty aftermarket (presumably) stage 2 clutch replaced in my R that had already been involved in crank walk on the original engine (it was replaced with an A3 engine before I bought it). It now has the semi-famous TTRS clutch kit installed, which lacks in performance but can still hold the power of my APR stage 2 tune.

      Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk

    20. Member oTurtlez's Avatar
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      06-30-2020 04:08 PM #119
      Quote Originally Posted by Disturbd1 View Post
      At the risk of seeming a bit dull, I have some questions. Thank you for your post, lots of good information there.

      Regarding the dealership, (this is more a question for the forum than you in particular) is it the general/expected experience that even a mod-friendly dealer would reject or deny warranty work for something like this? Granted, I know the percentage of those of us impacted isn't as high as, say 50%, but it's common enough that it comes up a ton in the forums and on Facebook groups as well. This means VW can't possibly deny build quality or engineering flaws on this transmission. Regardless of mods, since it's occurred on plenty of stock setups, could it not be argued that it's justifiable to push back on this? The alternative in worse-case scenario is a new engine, which is something most of us don't and can't afford to plan for.

      Are the symptoms pretty much limited to the clutch holding/sinking on a hard right-hand turn + revs not being normal + rough idle with clutch engaged?

      I just had a ****ty aftermarket (presumably) stage 2 clutch replaced in my R that had already been involved in crank walk on the original engine (it was replaced with an A3 engine before I bought it). It now has the semi-famous TTRS clutch kit installed, which lacks in performance but can still hold the power of my APR stage 2 tune.

      Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
      So I've seen really mixed results. I did try to escalate to VWoA to see if they'd help out at all, but they essentially said that a VW dealer would have had to been the ones doing the teardown. I told them how the two dealers near me are awful and I didn't want to overpay for shoddy work, or have to tow my car 65 miles to the one dealer in the area that does in fact treat issues like this seriously. The dealer I went to this time strung a friend along for FOUR YEARS about a knock in his GTI's engine. Finally got fed up and took it to another dealer and the tech found metal in the oil and got VW to approve a replacement engine.

      It's hit or miss depending on the dealership you go to and the tech that does the diagnostic on your car. The second they see a TD1 flag, most just toss their hands up and blame the tune, but the good ones keep digging to find the root cause. I've seen tuned engines window the block and get it replaced under warranty, yet a BS poor engineering issue won't.

      Generally the first symptoms that I've seen is what I described above. I hadn't seen anyone else post about those before, just the sticking pedal in right turns, different clutch pedal feel, etc. Those last two are essentially the "hey, your engine is about to blow" signs, and then if you let it keep going, eventually you'll get low oil pressure and it'll actually go.

      Pricing out the work, it's almost cheaper to buy an S3 engine from LKQ for $3k and pay someone to toss it in than it is to pay them to pull and tear down your engine, inspect, rebuild, and reinstall. I'm looking at nothing shy of $4,000 on this one...
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      Quote Originally Posted by eh6 View Post
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    21. Member Disturbd1's Avatar
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      06-30-2020 04:25 PM #120
      Quote Originally Posted by oTurtlez View Post
      So I've seen really mixed results. I did try to escalate to VWoA to see if they'd help out at all, but they essentially said that a VW dealer would have had to been the ones doing the teardown. I told them how the two dealers near me are awful and I didn't want to overpay for shoddy work, or have to tow my car 65 miles to the one dealer in the area that does in fact treat issues like this seriously. The dealer I went to this time strung a friend along for FOUR YEARS about a knock in his GTI's engine. Finally got fed up and took it to another dealer and the tech found metal in the oil and got VW to approve a replacement engine.

      It's hit or miss depending on the dealership you go to and the tech that does the diagnostic on your car. The second they see a TD1 flag, most just toss their hands up and blame the tune, but the good ones keep digging to find the root cause. I've seen tuned engines window the block and get it replaced under warranty, yet a BS poor engineering issue won't.

      Generally the first symptoms that I've seen is what I described above. I hadn't seen anyone else post about those before, just the sticking pedal in right turns, different clutch pedal feel, etc. Those last two are essentially the "hey, your engine is about to blow" signs, and then if you let it keep going, eventually you'll get low oil pressure and it'll actually go.

      Pricing out the work, it's almost cheaper to buy an S3 engine from LKQ for $3k and pay someone to toss it in than it is to pay them to pull and tear down your engine, inspect, rebuild, and reinstall. I'm looking at nothing shy of $4,000 on this one...
      Jesus, that's costly. Yeah, my guy is highly reputable. Owns his own shop and has been turning a wrench on these cars since he could hold one. He's who swapped the original engine in mine to an A3. Fingers crossed, since my ride already suffered this once before I bought it. Between the engine and the clutch, it's probably only 10k-20k miles at this point. I'll probably start my rainy day fund now just in case.

      Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk

    22. Member Diggs24's Avatar
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      06-30-2020 04:28 PM #121
      The block is toast. Where do you think that glitter came from? Sorry to hear.

    23. Member oTurtlez's Avatar
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      06-30-2020 04:39 PM #122
      Quote Originally Posted by Diggs24 View Post
      The block is toast. Where do you think that glitter came from? Sorry to hear.
      Shop is saying otherwise. According to then the crank is scored and the washer was heavily worn but hadn't fallen yet.




      I'm hoping and assuming all of the wear and material is from the trashed washer.

      I just ordered a new crank, so they better be right... If the block and other things are indeed trashed and I just wasted $900 on a new crank there'll be words for sure. But at this point what can I do other than take their word for it?
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    24. Member Diggs24's Avatar
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      06-30-2020 04:53 PM #123
      If there are slivers then the crank has to have been grinding on something other than the washer. It was grinding into the block when you were pushing in the clutch. I don't want to cause alarm, but I have never seen anyone salvage a motor that had crankwalk. Once that washer dislodges itself they very next time you push on the clutch=grinding away the block. So unless you caught it and stopped driving before that happened it is done for. I don't want you to have wasted money on a crank either. Also, all that metal will have gotten in things like the oil pump, are they planning on pulling it too? Did they scope the cylinders to make sure there is no scoring? You are taking a huge risk. Are they going to guarantee their work and credit it towards a new motor if this doesn't work?

    25. Member oTurtlez's Avatar
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      06-30-2020 05:22 PM #124
      Quote Originally Posted by Diggs24 View Post
      If there are slivers then the crank has to have been grinding on something other than the washer. It was grinding into the block when you were pushing in the clutch. I don't want to cause alarm, but I have never seen anyone salvage a motor that had crankwalk. Once that washer dislodges itself they very next time you push on the clutch=grinding away the block. So unless you caught it and stopped driving before that happened it is done for. I don't want you to have wasted money on a crank either. Also, all that metal will have gotten in things like the oil pump, are they planning on pulling it too? Did they scope the cylinders to make sure there is no scoring? You are taking a huge risk. Are they going to guarantee their work and credit it towards a new motor if this doesn't work?
      Big ifs all around. I'm going to have to call them and get the overall lowdown on everything they've done and verified. I asked about the cams today via email but haven't gotten a response yet.

      Images attached are of the oil from the filter housing, and two shots of one half of the filter. I've had this thought in the back of my mind the whole time when they told me it's just the crank, but I'm not sure what they'd have to gain by half-assing a rebuild.
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    26. Member oTurtlez's Avatar
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      06-30-2020 05:31 PM #125
      Just called and confirmed, they're going to inspect the cam journals and everything tomorrow and get back to me. Looks like the cylinders were scoped and looked alright though.
      Quote Originally Posted by BChad View Post
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