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    Thread: Cooling fans, thermostat, or water pump?

    1. Member BOOHNDA's Avatar
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      08-11-2019 02:03 PM #26
      Checking out the FCM.

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    3. Junior Member mikemilmikemil's Avatar
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      08-11-2019 02:13 PM #27
      I chased many cooling issues for a year. The big issue was that I was loosing coolant only when hot. After driving for 30 min and then an overnight cool down I was loosing 1-2 qts.

      I changed everything and nothing helped.

      Turned out after I pulled the head that 3 head studs were finger tight and I was loosing coolant into exhaust, so it did not show up in any of the oil and water tests I did. Professional shops could not find the issue. Everyone had something to suggest.

      2 years later and I am hopeful I will get it back on the road after a complete rebuild and an embarrassing amount of money.


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    4. Member BOOHNDA's Avatar
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      08-12-2019 02:44 PM #28
      Man I hope that is not my issue and it is something easy like a blown fuse. I am going to stop at a parts store and get some, they seem fairly cheap to give it a shot. Replace all 3 on top of the battery and see what happens. Kind of a brute force type move but honestly, looking at wiring diagrams and the whole testing of stuff has my eyes glazing over and is a lot to try and process for me. I have a coworker letting me borrow a multimeter so I can test the FCM (still not totally sure how to do that but if I think about it, its just touching points on the fcm to make sure there is continuity? ) I am going to keep looking into that one.

      I thought about just buying a new FCM but trying to do the cheap, simpler things first.
      Car History: '01 VW GTI (heavily modded), '02 Lexus IS300(slightly modded), '06 Chevy Cobalt SS(F that car), '09 VW GTI (completely stock), '16 Jetta Sport.
      Bucket List Item Achieved: Mkiv DBP R32 is my current car.

    5. Member BOOHNDA's Avatar
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      08-12-2019 04:54 PM #29
      More info:

      Drove home today, things were fine. While idling I turned on the AC and got cold air and both fans came on. Held steady a bit and thought, well maybe I can make it a few miles to buy some fuses. Halfway there, temp started to creep. I turned around and on the way home the AC no longer blew cold crisp air and instead was warm, muggy air.

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    6. Member gloaming88's Avatar
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      08-13-2019 08:53 AM #30
      Do you have access to VCDS. If your T-stat was stuck you should be able to tell with that. I would think though if that was stuck you'd get some kind of code or CEL. When mine was stuck open I got a CEL because the car took too long to warm up (opposite of your problem).

    7. Member BOOHNDA's Avatar
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      08-13-2019 08:59 AM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by gloaming88 View Post
      Do you have access to VCDS. If your T-stat was stuck you should be able to tell with that. I would think though if that was stuck you'd get some kind of code or CEL. When mine was stuck open I got a CEL because the car took too long to warm up (opposite of your problem).
      Sadly I do not. It is on my list of things to get but I need my car not needing money so I can afford one haha.. Damn catch 22 right there I tell ya. My coworker has one but it does not work with my R, so that is frustrating. I think the cable is too new or something. I forget the error I was getting when I tried to use his cable.
      Car History: '01 VW GTI (heavily modded), '02 Lexus IS300(slightly modded), '06 Chevy Cobalt SS(F that car), '09 VW GTI (completely stock), '16 Jetta Sport.
      Bucket List Item Achieved: Mkiv DBP R32 is my current car.

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      08-13-2019 04:11 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by BOOHNDA View Post
      Sadly I do not. It is on my list of things to get but I need my car not needing money so I can afford one haha.. Damn catch 22 right there I tell ya. My coworker has one but it does not work with my R, so that is frustrating. I think the cable is too new or something. I forget the error I was getting when I tried to use his cable.
      Too new??? Makes no sense...

      For our cars you cant just do the quick auto scan. you have to select the mk4 golf chassis.. if youre doing it that way scanning the whole car... if you are scanning individual modules... you can just go ahead if i recall.

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    9. Member BOOHNDA's Avatar
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      08-13-2019 04:15 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by lil'red View Post
      Too new??? Makes no sense...

      For our cars you cant just do the quick auto scan. you have to select the mk4 golf chassis.. if youre doing it that way scanning the whole car... if you are scanning individual modules... you can just go ahead if i recall.

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      It was something about the hex canbus or something. I forget what it was.

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      Car History: '01 VW GTI (heavily modded), '02 Lexus IS300(slightly modded), '06 Chevy Cobalt SS(F that car), '09 VW GTI (completely stock), '16 Jetta Sport.
      Bucket List Item Achieved: Mkiv DBP R32 is my current car.

    10. Member gloaming88's Avatar
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      08-13-2019 06:36 PM #34
      Lil’ Red: the micro-can VCDS will not work on pre-2006 cars. I know because I had one and sold it to buy my Hex-Can-USB VCDS.

      Same goes in reverse. The older K-Line based VCDS won’t work on the newer ones.
      Last edited by gloaming88; 08-13-2019 at 06:39 PM.

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      08-13-2019 06:45 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by gloaming88 View Post
      Lil’ Red: the micro-can VCDS will not work on pre-2006 cars. I know because I had one and sold it to buy my Hex-Can-USB VCDS.

      Same goes in reverse. The older K-Line based VCDS won’t work on the newer ones.
      Ahh i see yeah that micro can i remember only being good for mk5 and up. Ive got a hex can. I thought they were all backwards compatable... brain fart. Its 90° and im working outside sweating my nuts off haha



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    12. Member BOOHNDA's Avatar
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      08-13-2019 07:19 PM #36
      Updated OG post.

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    13. Member vr6fanatic's Avatar
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      08-14-2019 12:43 AM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by BOOHNDA View Post
      Updated OG post.

      Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
      what's the update?
      Many people enjoy eating apples and oranges, but in the end they are still… just apples and oranges. The R32 is passion fruit. . Live Long and Prosper.

    14. Member
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      08-14-2019 08:45 AM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by vr6fanatic View Post
      what's the update?
      Its at the bottom of the first post....

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    15. Member BOOHNDA's Avatar
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      08-14-2019 08:47 AM #39
      I did end up going full blown alum housing, alum crack pipe through urotuning. Hoping it's here Friday so I can do it that afternoon and have my car working right for the weekend.

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      Bucket List Item Achieved: Mkiv DBP R32 is my current car.

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      08-14-2019 11:15 AM #40
      Its also a good idea to replace the Fan Control Module as a preventative measure. they are know to fail as the miles rise. My R32 has 175K on it and I just had the AC Compressor, condenser, thermostat housing, crack pipe and various other bits replaced on mine for about 4K earlier this year. I had a local euro shop do the work and he replaced the FCM also as a preventative measure as they are a known weak point.

    17. Member huichox4's Avatar
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      08-14-2019 12:45 PM #41
      As preventive measure you can throw a new metal impeller water pump at it as well. If you still have an original plastic impeller pump, the chances of it breaking the vanes if not broken yet, are very high as the car keeps getting old.

    18. Member BOOHNDA's Avatar
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      08-14-2019 01:58 PM #42
      The FCM and the WP are on the list of things to do. Just cant do them right now as I basically spent my whole current budget on the thermostat stuff.
      Car History: '01 VW GTI (heavily modded), '02 Lexus IS300(slightly modded), '06 Chevy Cobalt SS(F that car), '09 VW GTI (completely stock), '16 Jetta Sport.
      Bucket List Item Achieved: Mkiv DBP R32 is my current car.

    19. 08-15-2019 07:38 PM #43
      More than Likely This:
      https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1J0919506N
      Mine went out today on my 2003 mk4 wagon. Had trouble last year with this d*mn misengineered relay. Too complicated for what it does and too expensive. Finally put a $5 mk1 power relay in parallel with the circuit on my 2001 so I didn't have to spend another $200 to fix it again. This late in the season I think I am just going to run a wire to the cab and install an on off switch and monitor the instrument panel for when the car is over heating .

      SSB
      Centerlessville Utah

    20. 08-15-2019 08:04 PM #44
      Why all the confusion?
      You don't check the thermostat, its just $5, so you always just replace it.
      Most often the thermostat is not bad, but just installed reversed, with the expansion pellet on the cold side instead of the hot.
      By the way, I hate the stock 190 degree thermostat.
      Engine will last much longer with a cooler thermostat, like 170.

      As far as the fans, it they ever go on, it is not the fan, but the temp sensor or relay.
      Short the sensor and see if fan goes on.
      Normally, with AC I think they are both supposed to go on.

      But the biggest cause of overheating usually, is just cheap regular gasoline.
      It will run much cooler with premium, because the knock sensor won't start retarding ignition timing.

      If that does not do it, then you start replacing things, like the water pump could be cheap.
      The EGR can be stuck.
      Leaves blocking the radiator.

      I do not understand the discussion on the hot and cold hoses.
      Of course the hose from the engine to the radiator should be hot, and the return hose after that radiator should be cold.
      That likely means the radiator is open.
      If the thermostat is stuck closed, then neither hose to the radiator gets hot, because the whole radiator is out of the circuit.

    21. 08-16-2019 07:17 AM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by mikeysentra View Post
      Its also a good idea to replace the Fan Control Module as a preventative measure. they are know to fail as the miles rise. My R32 has 175K on it and I just had the AC Compressor, condenser, thermostat housing, crack pipe and various other bits replaced on mine for about 4K earlier this year. I had a local euro shop do the work and he replaced the FCM also as a preventative measure as they are a known weak point.
      Understanding your results:
      Drive the car on the expressway = no overheating! GOOD since this tests thermostat, water pump, engine and radiator function.
      Allow the car to sit and idle = overheating! If the temperature is rising and the fans are not coming on then you know where to look.

      Several here have suggested that your fan module (under battery) might be faulty which could cause ALL of the issues you have been having with the overheating and a/c not functioning. I prefer the modules from the dealer and not aftermarket modules in case you need one.
      Test the fuses inside the vehicle and also I think your MK4 car has a fuse box above the battery. I have seen several of them fail due to weak connections that cause them to heat up and melt but the "fuses" look good. Sometimes circuits are open causing no power to go to that fan module even though the fuse box appears good. Must be tested during you examination! I use a Harbor Freight 12 volt probe to check fuses and look for power/ground.

      I think this BATTERY located FUSE BOX supplies the main power to the fan module and I would look there for your PROBLEM!

      BTW I believe when you turn your a/c on the radiator fans should come on.

      I think your problem is simple and you should definitely keep your mk4 DBP R32 car! Good luck!

    22. Member BOOHNDA's Avatar
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      08-22-2019 12:04 AM #46
      Final update: thermostat was stuck, replacing the housing, thermostat, and crackpipe as well as CTS cleared the issue right up.

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      Car History: '01 VW GTI (heavily modded), '02 Lexus IS300(slightly modded), '06 Chevy Cobalt SS(F that car), '09 VW GTI (completely stock), '16 Jetta Sport.
      Bucket List Item Achieved: Mkiv DBP R32 is my current car.

    23. Member FGuri32's Avatar
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      08-22-2019 12:51 PM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by BOOHNDA View Post
      Final update: thermostat was stuck, replacing the housing, thermostat, and crackpipe as well as CTS cleared the issue right up.

      Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
      Called it!


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