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    Thread: Rear trailing arm/wheel adapter modifications + idea extras

    1. 08-12-2019 10:39 PM #1
      I bought these wheel adapters that were 5x100 to 5x114 from ebay ($75) with 20 lug nuts and lock key....to put on these 20 inch blades on my GTI. So before one of you throw a tire be aware of this approach... mk4 wheel hubs are 57.1cm so i made sure the wheel adapters was 56mm so i could use a burr or a engine honer with modified bent carbide rasping file i cut into 3 sections....using heat and a brake drum with c-clamps

      Bought 24 m14x1.5 lug nuts as low profile as i could find... then proceeded to cut them down for bench grinder beveling(hint. Use a m14x1.5 TAP to hold the lug nut as you spin it against the bench grinder for uniform consistency throughout all 20 lug nuts.

      Spent $75(wheel adapters w/ log nuts) $14(24 m14x1.5 lug nuts) $40 (20 m14x1.5 wheel studs from local auto parts store)
      Cut the head off the stud and using thread locker screwed them into the vehicles spindle

      your going to have to double nut each lug nut w/ 19mm wrenches onto a stud... vice gripped push it against the bench grinding wheel to take significant material to form the bevel

      using your tap and lubricant fix the lug nut threads.

      and there you go... low profile wheel adapters with a chevy/ford trucks m14x1.5 stud/lug nut arrangement
      But !!! if you don't want a machine shop to mill the lug nuts perfectly centered you can buy these proprietary lug bolts from an ebay $1 a piece plus $7 shipping within USA seller... just email: dsx-customs . Message him through your ebay account.

      Base Curb Weight of a 01 GTI 2.8l is 2,890 lbs
      alright so lets get back to business...

      The trailing arm on this mk4 jetta on a lift is the same on gti very heavy repugnant and if you go above 60 and turn left and right it whips you left and right so your rear tires start screaming.... if you ever replaced the rear trailing bushings you know how heavy this thing is.....
      designs to fabricate the rear trailing arm out of aluminium will be discussed now since this is a porsche "sleeper" eventually your going to be buying carbon twill and make hybrid rivet carbon bonnet to the sheet metal so your lambo shocks don't break the carbon bonnet but getting back to these heavy trailing arms
      i'm measuring 44 inches accross so there is a metal discount surplus store you can buy aluminum structure material in bulk
      i'm using a 220 AC/DC+/- stick welder... $26 aluminum stick off online site... to penetrate deep into everything that will be fabricated and measured symmetrically totall to spec
      you can tell VW wasn't going to spend money to shed weight

      casting this huge object in a foundary is not an option so keeping the original design and making it out of aluminum is the way to go

      just look at my arrangement, i'm organized and have done a-lot of fabrications.... just grind down your welds and hit the welded joint w/ a hammer if your unsure... but most likely if you've worked on car/saw youtube videos... you gain a sense about strength and structure.... since your considering lightening down the whole vehicle... might be a good idea make brackets out of aluminum or take them out completely.

      so cleaning the engine fuselage finding any components to lighten... you can start ripping apart the insides of the cab fuselage but there's nothing really that can reduce weight.... 38LB hood you can make out of lighter material... the doors are the heaviest parts ...

      for the lambo doors i'm just gonna cut my doors off 6 inchest from the hinges and buy a bunch of carbon twill off ebay so i can rivet the carbon bonnet construction to the 6 inchest of sheet metal

      A MUST make an triangle bracket for the header or the headers welds start to crack from engine movement...
      special flywheel bolts, linkage ends, brackets, axle, starter ... input shaft seal from the dealer... basically part look-up and expensive horror-show

      gave the welder some bondo for the trailing arm hopefully soon....

      i even cut this bracket thats holding the engine up b/c i wanted more room in engine... think an after market intake will do the trick once i custom install a turbo i got from a '95 volvo 850r .... ball bearing w/ oil and antifreeze ports.... don't know how long after market turbos would last..... defienty going to port pics of the water flow on a seperate thread....

      you can go w/ the synthetic 75w90 maybe add a little synchromesh for a robust blend
      Yeah i didn't want to say anything for a week until i was sure they were strong... and they are really strong... obviously because of how tight to the hubs they are... got an extra Z rated Nitto tire ... because i had 3 and got a fourth balanced all 4 to zero and drove 100mph ... all 6 gear/rev works great....

      planning on putting in this turbo from a '95 volvo 850R 2.3L i believe but should rock with antifreeze and engine oil ports...

      Very strong and reliable wheel adapters obviously 5x100 to 5x114 ... most likely because there so tight to the spindle/hub's... there's no give and pretty wide on the outer circumference of the adapter plus there so thin there's no parasitic torque loss from wide wheel adapter extentions... [COLOR="#006400"]these tires are $180 a piece on amazon and the rims are skinny b/c i wasn't going for the wide look on a little car but yeah it's a great idea! after the $80 wheel alignment i can drive without touching the steering wheel
      so i'm going with this turbo 2.3l turbo

      found an exhaust manifold for $60 and a piping kit for $130 like you see below... the rest is custom parts like injectors, blow off valves, cylinder head spacers plus a $500 dyno .... and a high powered fuel pump.... few more dollars

      possible paint code and design ideas

      Last edited by AdminSeniorMember; 08-12-2019 at 10:41 PM.

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