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    Thread: VWR stud kit and flush spacers

    1. Member
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      09-16-2019 12:21 AM #1
      Tried searching but haven't been able to stop the damn site from kicking back an error every time.

      I like the VWR stud kit but it looks like they won't fit a flush spacer setup (10mm-12mm front, 15mm-17.5mm rear) as they aren't long enough for the rears. Anyone have suggestions for a cost effective high quality setup? I'm open to buying the stud/nuts separately. Prefer retaining the stock bolt covers but I can dump them instead and use decent looking hardware.

      Ideally I could grab longer studs elsewhere and buy the VWR nut set independently but I haven't found anyone selling them solo. Not really had to look for decent hardware before as my old cars all had centercaps to cover the set.
      2018 VW Golf R Copper Orange 6MT
      1990 BMW 332i
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    3. Member
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      09-16-2019 10:13 AM #2
      Sounds like you want what I wanted: a stud/nut setup for street use that's functional and still looks good. (Racing studs would be a whole separate discussion.) I bought studs, open end nuts, and plastic nut covers that work perfectly and look great. Here are some resources to figure out what you need for your setup.

      The studs need to be full threaded in M14x1.5, and of appropriate length. In your case the lengths will be different front and rear because of the spacers. You probably won't be able to figure out the correct lengths without buying a couple of individual studs to test fit with your wheels and nuts. You want full thread engagement on the stud but with minimal stud protrusion past the nut, because otherwise the covers may not fit. Here are two vendors for M14x1.5 studs sold individually and in a variety of lengths:
      http://www.purems.com/Products/WHEEL...tud-Conversion
      http://www.t3technique.com/lug-nuts-...version-studs/

      The matching wheels nuts obviously need to be threaded the same as the studs, have an R13 ball seat (aka "small ball", which sounds a bit odd....) for stock wheel fitment, and be open ended. You want a 17mm hex like the stock wheel lugs, because sockets for the more common 19mm hex often won't fit into the wheel holes. Here's what you need:
      http://www.t3technique.com/lug-nuts-...seat-nuts.html

      Lastly, 17mm covers to dress up the nut:
      https://otisincla.com/product-catego...d-lock-covers/
      http://www.t3technique.com/lug-nuts-...ug-covers.html

      Oh, a hint. Buy a couple of spare studs and nuts to have on hand in case of loss, breakage etc.

      Neil

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      09-16-2019 12:51 PM #3
      Just get the ECS stud conversion kit. They come in varying lengths and can go up to a 25mm spacer and still fit.

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    6. Member
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      09-16-2019 01:37 PM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by Crild View Post
      Just get the ECS stud conversion kit. They come in varying lengths and can go up to a 25mm spacer and still fit.
      The ECS kits are all race style studs. They feature extended noses which facilitate quick wheel changes, but prevent the use of a protective cap, and have a black oxide finish that will corrode in all-weather street use. In no way are these functionally or aesthetically attractive for street use. On the plus side, ECS have thoughtfully put together kits matched to different spacer thicknesses, including half-kits for cars with different spacers front and rear.

      As I said earlier, racing studs would be a whole separate discussion.

      Neil
      Golf R — street studs
      BMW M3 — race studs

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      09-16-2019 01:53 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by NeilCM View Post
      The ECS kits are all race style studs. They feature extended noses which facilitate quick wheel changes, but prevent the use of a protective cap, and have a black oxide finish that will corrode in all-weather street use. In no way are these functionally or aesthetically attractive for street use. On the plus side, ECS have thoughtfully put together kits matched to different spacer thicknesses, including half-kits for cars with different spacers front and rear.

      As I said earlier, racing studs would be a whole separate discussion.

      Neil
      Golf R — street studs
      BMW M3 — race studs
      I've run them for a year and a half and they are doing just fine. You do you fam.

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    8. Member phyzix's Avatar
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      09-16-2019 02:56 PM #6
      I broke a lug bolt at the track last week, destroyed the hub and a wheel, and now have an excuse to convert to studs (finally). I run 5mm front spacers, and 15mm rear for a flush look, and ordered this kit. I wasn't going for aesthetics obviously, just a get the job done approach.

      https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...01467ecs01kt5/

      Will let you know if anything comes up on install this week.

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      09-17-2019 09:03 AM #7
      Street Studs

      Seem short, don't they?



      But they're just right.



      With caps.



      Neil

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      09-17-2019 10:16 AM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by NeilCM View Post
      Street Studs

      Seem short, don't they?



      But they're just right.



      With caps.



      Neil
      Way too short. You gotta go with the 70mm studs

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      09-18-2019 08:44 AM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by Crild View Post
      Way too short. You gotta go with the 70mm studs
      For the benefit of anyone who thought you meant that seriously, max strength in a nut/bolt interface is achieved when the length of thread engagement equals the nominal diameter of the bolt. So we'd like to have 14mm; any more makes no difference. And of course any stud length sticking out past the nut can't add strength. These nuts have a little over 17mm of thread, so when the stud's outer end falls flush with the visible face of the nut we're already comfortably over what's needed. Interestingly, if you look at the VW hubs where the studs screw in you'll notice that they have less thread engagement length than 14mm, so that would be the weaker point. I've noticed the same thing on other cars too.

      For reference, these particular studs are 45mm overall length. It was just dumb luck that they fit flush as shown. I'm pretty sure the caps would accommodate at least 5mm of stud protrusion out past the nut, so a nominal 50mm stud ought to work. Add spacer thickness to that as applicable.

      Neil

    12. Member Rocket88's Avatar
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      09-18-2019 11:17 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by NeilCM View Post
      Street Studs

      Seem short, don't they?



      But they're just right.



      With caps.



      Neil
      Love the RSe12’s . You nailed that stud length, better buy a lottery ticket



      I ordered mine too long thinking I might want a spacer to push them out a bit someday.


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      Last edited by Rocket88; 09-18-2019 at 11:19 PM.

    13. Senior Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      09-19-2019 01:19 PM #11
      Their should only be high quality studs. Not meh and quality. Safety item, if that isn't the immediate thought, well, i question track safety let alone street safety for those who think you can degrade an item that sees the same stresses regardless, sometimes more ob the street and suddenly, along with equally varying temperatures etc.

      Corrosion shouldn't happen because everyone is using antiseize on their studs... right.

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      Quote Originally Posted by .Ant View Post
      What vegeta said.

    14. 09-19-2019 01:53 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by phyzix View Post
      I broke a lug bolt at the track last week, destroyed the hub and a wheel, and now have an excuse to convert to studs (finally). I run 5mm front spacers, and 15mm rear for a flush look, and ordered this kit. I wasn't going for aesthetics obviously, just a get the job done approach.

      https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...01467ecs01kt5/

      Will let you know if anything comes up on install this week.
      Do you use a torque wrench?

      Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

    15. Member
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      09-19-2019 04:18 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegeta Gti View Post
      Corrosion shouldn't happen because everyone is using antiseize on their studs... right.
      Oh, you just had to go and open that can of worms. ;-)

      Neil

    16. n00b
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      09-19-2019 07:16 PM #14
      I've had mine on for over 2 years, no corrision (live in northern NJ), work like a champ and I like the look of the dark studs with the greyish tint on the Pretorias. Makes swapping summer and winter wheels a breeze.
      APR Stage 1 ECU, APR intake, APR catch can, APR TCU tune

    17. Member phyzix's Avatar
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      09-19-2019 07:45 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by Silver_arrow12! View Post
      Do you use a torque wrench?

      Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
      Sure do, but not sure how that changes when a lug bolt head decides to shear off. It's more of a wear and tear issue combined with using spacers on the track in my very unprofessional opinion. It's not like it slowly got loose and started wobbling lol, it was quite a dramatic snap and I'm lucky I didn't end up doing some serious damage.

    18. Member
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      09-19-2019 08:32 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by phyzix View Post
      Sure do, but not sure how that changes when a lug bolt head decides to shear off. It's more of a wear and tear issue combined with using spacers on the track in my very unprofessional opinion. It's not like it slowly got loose and started wobbling lol, it was quite a dramatic snap and I'm lucky I didn't end up doing some serious damage.
      I replace my lug bolts every couple of years. Between frequent wheels changes and high temps at the track, they fatigue and wear out. The same principle applies to studs.It's cheaper to periodically replace $100 worth of parts than to have the parts fail at a critical moment.
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    19. 09-19-2019 09:13 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by phyzix View Post
      Sure do, but not sure how that changes when a lug bolt head decides to shear off. It's more of a wear and tear issue combined with using spacers on the track in my very unprofessional opinion. It's not like it slowly got loose and started wobbling lol, it was quite a dramatic snap and I'm lucky I didn't end up doing some serious damage.
      Over torquing can break a lug bolt, I don't think that's even debatable, so I'm glad you're properly torquing and that wasn't the issue.

      As the poster above said, I also swap lug bolts or lug nuts as a wear item because my wheels are swapped multiple times a month and exposed to high heat and high stresses.

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    20. Member phyzix's Avatar
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      09-20-2019 04:38 PM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by phyzix View Post
      I broke a lug bolt at the track last week, destroyed the hub and a wheel, and now have an excuse to convert to studs (finally). I run 5mm front spacers, and 15mm rear for a flush look, and ordered this kit. I wasn't going for aesthetics obviously, just a get the job done approach.

      https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...01467ecs01kt5/

      Will let you know if anything comes up on install this week.
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      Last edited by phyzix; 09-21-2019 at 12:19 AM.

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