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Tuning considerations? Newbie needs to get schooled...

4K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  Stradguy93 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

This is my first post here, so please forgive me if I'm asking oft-repeated questions...

I have a 2017 Alltrack, and although it's a fine little wagon, I had a chance to drive a GTI for a couple of days, and I got quickly addicted to that adrenaline rush from rapidly increasing G-forces during accelerations on the highway.
Yes, I do drive relatively "spirited" as they say, and I find that my Alltrack leaves me wanting.

I'm considering spending money to have my car "tuned" as they say, and possibly upgrade my turbo to the IS38. From what I understand, (which isn't much) that will give me the adrenaline rush I like, and more.
I've decided to number these questions so that folks can respond to particular questions more easily...

1.
I'm guessing that there are so many other considerations, tires, struts, brakes, exhaust, etc. that one needs to consider for "Spirited Driving"?
I don't intend to ever get on a track and drive it like a race car, I really just want to be able to quickly get around those idiots who drive slowly in the left lane... and be on my way,
and perhaps open it up on some nice quiet stretch of highway for an adrenaline fix.

2.
What tuning software is out there that is reliable for my car and its transmission? I know about APR, Unitronic, and Turner. I'm sure there must be more.
Can someone spell out the advantages/disadvantages of different brands like APR, Unitronic, Turner, etc.?

3.
Turbochargers - Is an IS38 just an IS38? I see ads for IS38's, upgraded IS38's, and kits for prices all over the map.
IF I decide to get an IS38, besides software, what else needs to be upgraded/replaced? Are other engine components stressed from higher rpm's and torque?

I'm probably not as picky as some folks would be about torque curves and such, but I also don't want to destroy my engine in the process of creating fun.

Please, if you have some time, school me on the considerations of creating a higher hp car, and what else I should be looking at that I'm probably unaware of.

Thanks for your time, and your advice.

Don
 
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#2 ·
You could do a JB4 and keep your warranty, but for me - it left me wanting more. I can only get 91 here, and I think this was a big factor to its limits.

You could do an APR stage 1 tune, which I found was a big increase over the JB4. Low RPM drive-ability was much better; freeway passing power was absolutely transformed. It is a fun combo and feels like your money was well-spent. But why do that when you probably want an IS20? Some say the IS38 is too big for the 1.8; the shifted curve is annoying, and the upper gains are cramped from the tiny DP size.

If I were doing it again I think I would look at United Motorsports software as it would be more tailored to your car.
 
#4 ·
Throttle & stage 1 + Suspension - DO IT

Thanks Drader, I'll look into those options, and at the choice of an IS20 possibly instead of the IS38.
I appreciate the advice and the effort to respond.
Hi there DEWilliams,

I thought I would just give you a few anecdotes related to my experience because I'm very new to tuning as well and have found it very difficult to get information specific to my car and make the right choices, so my experimentation/journey could be helpful for others to learn as well.

Engine/Throttle stuff
For reference, I've had a 2016 Golf R since 2016 and a 2014 GLI since last year (2018).

I recently got a Unitronic Stage 1 tune on my 2014 GLI (2.0T EA888 Gen3 engine), and then (GASP hopefully no purists are reading) I bought a "pedal box" or throttle tuner from a german company called "RaceChip".
-I had the stage 1 tune for a couple months before getting the pedal box, and while I did notice the HP gains, there still was something missing it seemed (as a Golf R driver, go figure haha).
-After installing the pedal box, WOW, the HP can truly be taken advantage of. A pedal box won't GIVE you more HP, but damn it sure feels like it...

Also for reference:
in my 2016 Golf R, there are different chassis modes you can adjust with a button (this feature is the "DCC" or Dynamic Chassis Control). there are 3 default modes - Comfort, Normal, Race, and 1 user mode where you can customize different aspects of the chassis.
Race mode adjusts throttle response/sensitivity as well as stiffening the suspension, tighter steering, and a couple other things. Now...

I also recently got a stage 1 tune for my Golf R from 034 motorsports in Fremont, CA, and when I use Race mode now (adjusts throttle response), the car is a BEAST, truly something I need to re-learn how to drive. But the power and aggression the machine has now is exhilarating!

So the point of that story is that I believe strongly in what adjusting the throttle can do for the driver's experience. I do recommend the pedal box from RaceChip because it has a bunch of levels that you can quickly adjust with a little dial, and anytime you want to reduce throttle response (for more economical driving), you just turn the dial... it has 2 eco modes, which make the car dull af but reduce fuel consumption.

Suspension
Hands down I recommend Bilstein. It was a night and day difference between the stock GLI "Sport" *COUGH* suspension. My first attempt was unsuccessful when a well known tuning shop in my area recommended me Koni Sport shocks/struts and neuspeed springs, and that setup waaaaaasss GARBAGE... absolute garbage... I felt like a ghetto cholo rollin down the street with hydraulic suspension bouncing the front up n down... that's how bad that setup was.

I went to another tuning shop that I had used once before, and they got me setup with the perfect combo for my 2014 GLI: Bilstein B8 rear shock/Bilstein front Sport strut, + H&R Sport Springs. This lowered my car about 1.3" and with my 19" Golf R wheels, the stance is beautiful (imo).

A suspension upgrade + sway bars will really make the car feel sturdy, and indeed as though the car was a higher class like BMW or Mercedes...


hope that helps!
 
#5 ·
I have a GSW 4Mo DSG so same vehicle as you AT from a drivetrain perspective.

Doing a Stage 1 tune will do wonders - I had the Unitronic Stage 1+ (93 octane) and their Stage 1 DSG tune - amazing. Really woke the car up.

I have since gone with an IS20 and Unitronic's Stage 2 IS20 tune and Stage 2 DSG tune. Mind blow. Car is very fast and arguably as fast/faster than any of the tuner-boy cars out there i.e. Subaru WRX STI, Golf R, Focus ST/RS, etc. etc. Plenty have done the IS38 swap but the IS20 is far more common and less money if you can pick up a used one for ~$300. Stage 2 typically requires the use of a high-performance downpipe as well and I went Unitronic.

I have upgraded my rear sway bar to the Golf R RSB - you have one that is v. close to the Golf R piece so aftermarket (25mm+) is the way to go if you want to stiffen it up a bit in the turns.

Tires would make a bigger difference than suspension IMHO but you know, I have basic AS tires and have no issues "sending it" on a daily basis around town but am considering throwing on some Eibach springs and Bilstein B8s next year.

Good luck. There is a ton of info here in the Sportwagen forum about your car and the Alltrack Facebook pages.
 
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