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    Thread: I want a new (used) mini truck

    1. 02-13-2020 01:05 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by abacabdan View Post
      That's a nice pickup (haha) and I imagine a truck that light would do OK without PS. You could probably turn around and sell it tomorrow for what you paid.
      Yeah I think so! Especially since I didn't spend any money on registration or tax. Registration was $210 for one year.

      Quote Originally Posted by D_B_Jetta View Post
      No bagel pic, no care.


      G
      Pics!









      Quote Originally Posted by BRealistic View Post
      Dang, I missed this.
      Sounds like a good find

      I owned a 1984 Celica GTS coupe 5 speed with that same 2.4 liter 22RE engine. Very solid drivetrain.
      (Mine had the supra-like fancy seats and ps/pb, but no a/c, crank windows, no radio. lol. I loved it even though slow)
      I would check out the clutch master cylinder first.
      Mine started going bad causing weird stuff like that.
      I initially thought clutch issue.
      When the clutch finally went later, it would just slip under high load.
      There may even be an adjustment somewhere.
      Thanks for the recommendation! I ended up looking at the master cylinder and it looks horrible (sorry for the bad picture):



      I will get a new master and slave cylinder this weekend and hopefully that cures the issue. I don't think it's a clutch issue (hopefully) just because the truck shifts fine and doesn't slip.

      The speedometer also makes a ton of noise and jumps around a lot so I bought some graphite lube to hopefully help fix that.

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    3. Geriatric Member BRealistic's Avatar
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      02-13-2020 01:22 PM #27
      Bleed the system.
      And thee is an adjustment.
      https://youtu.be/rZYl2CJgSlU
      If you have it adjusted too far in, it never fully releases which doesn't allow added fluid to pump up the system each stroke as needed. Same for old school brakes. I think I had that brake problem on my 73 F100 with manual brakes.

    4. 02-15-2020 05:30 PM #28
      I bled the master and slave cylinders, but the engagement point didn't change. I took it for a test drive and noticed it started slipping in 4th and 5th gear. I guess it's clutch time.

    5. Geriatric Member BRealistic's Avatar
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      02-15-2020 05:55 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by Raguvian View Post
      I bled the master and slave cylinders, but the engagement point didn't change. I took it for a test drive and noticed it started slipping in 4th and 5th gear. I guess it's clutch time.
      Did you try adjusting the rod at the pedal?
      If the access to the bell-housing bolts are easy enough, this clutch job should be one of the easiest to do.
      Unfortunately in my Celica the top bell-housing bolt was right against the firewall.
      Good luck.

    6. Member bificus99's Avatar
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      02-15-2020 06:14 PM #30
      Nice find. I would replace all the fluids after this. Once all this is done should be good for quite some time.

    7. 02-15-2020 07:29 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by BRealistic View Post
      Did you try adjusting the rod at the pedal?
      If the access to the bell-housing bolts are easy enough, this clutch job should be one of the easiest to do.
      Unfortunately in my Celica the top bell-housing bolt was right against the firewall.
      Good luck.
      Quote Originally Posted by BRealistic View Post
      Did you try adjusting the rod at the pedal?
      If the access to the bell-housing bolts are easy enough, this clutch job should be one of the easiest to do.
      Unfortunately in my Celica the top bell-housing bolt was right against the firewall.
      Good luck.
      I will try that, but I'm kind of doubting it will really help considering the slip is only in higher gears. I'm guessing if the engagement is at the top of the pedal, I'll need to back the rod out to lower it.

      Luckily it's only $160 shipped from rockauto for a new master, slave, clutch kit and flywheel, along with a rear main seal. I've wanted to replace my own clutch for a while now so I'm looking forward to it.

      Quote Originally Posted by bificus99 View Post
      Nice find. I would replace all the fluids after this. Once all this is done should be good for quite some time.
      Thanks! I am thinking about replacing the timing chain as well, and then it will be a solid little truck.

    8. Member x(why)z's Avatar
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      02-16-2020 06:53 AM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by Raguvian View Post

      Gosh, I'm envious. When I was in grad school (2011-14) I drove a '90 just like this but in green. It was the best vehicle I've ever owned in so many ways. When I became a professor, I replaced it with a fourth-generation 4Runner, which was replaced with a Highlander. All I want it my old pickup back, though. I sold it to a friend who then sold it to another friend a few years later. It's still plucking away with 350k+ miles in upstate NY. I hope to buy it back again one day.

      Circa 2012 or 2013:


      Congrats on the purchase!

    9. Member Dieselstation's Avatar
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      02-16-2020 09:17 AM #33
      YES!!! I want a Hakotora so bad (Datsun Sunny with Skyline front end)

      Speed-Driven Wallpapers: http://www.speed-driven.com

    10. 02-18-2020 07:32 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by x(why)z View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Raguvian View Post

      Gosh, I'm envious. When I was in grad school (2011-14) I drove a '90 just like this but in green. It was the best vehicle I've ever owned in so many ways. When I became a professor, I replaced it with a fourth-generation 4Runner, which was replaced with a Highlander. All I want it my old pickup back, though. I sold it to a friend who then sold it to another friend a few years later. It's still plucking away with 350k+ miles in upstate NY. I hope to buy it back again one day.

      Circa 2012 or 2013:


      Congrats on the purchase!
      Thank you! There’s something just so rewarding about driving it that it makes me smile. Mine looks like it sat in some pretty harsh sun as the vinyl interior has some burn spots, but otherwise it’s pretty solid. The fact that it’s the same year and color as my old 4Runner really sold me on it.

      Quote Originally Posted by Dieselstation View Post
      YES!!! I want a Hakotora so bad (Datsun Sunny with Skyline front end)

      I do want to lower mine eventually! I’m a huge fan of mini trucks.

      Another update: I bought a flywheel, clutch kit, master and slave cylinders, rear main seal and shifter bushings for $200. I love having a car where parts are so unbelievably cheap. I’m hoping to install everything weekend after next and will update the thread with how my first ever clutch installation goes.

      Oh, new rear tail lights and speedo cable are on the way as well. Removing and cleaning the old one really helped a lot but I figured it would be better to just replace the entire thing.

    11. Geriatric Member BRealistic's Avatar
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      02-18-2020 09:17 PM #35
      Make sure to closely inspect the front end.
      Those trucks are so durable some people just run them until the front collapses.
      Good luck.

    12. Geriatric Member BRealistic's Avatar
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      02-23-2020 02:35 AM #36
      How's the work going?
      Vehicles owned (*=automatic):
      Chevy: 82 Cavalier Type 10, 94 Cavalier Coupe* | Chrysler: 96 Town & Country* | Ford: 73 F100, 88 F150, 18 F150* | Jeep: 78 CJ-5 | Mazdas: 83 GLC, 85 RX7 GS, 86 323, 90 323, 90 B2600i, 92 Miata, 97 Protege, 01 B2300, 01 B3000, 04 RX8 | Nissan: 90 240SX SE | Plymouth: 88 Caravan* | Pontiac: 84 Grand Prix* | Toyota: 84 Celica GTS, 02 Tundra*

    13. 03-02-2020 02:45 AM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by BRealistic View Post
      How's the work going?
      Thanks for asking! It took a bit of time to get all the parts from rockauto and ebay so I finally got around to it this weekend. I pulled the transmission out Friday, which wasn't too bad except for the actual removal of the transmission, since the rear transmission mount cross support is welded to the frame, so removing the transmission was pretty tricky. I got the rear main seal, clutch and flywheel all installed pretty quickly Saturday, but spent about 6 hours trying to get the transmission stabbed back in. I decided to do some more research last night and was told to loosen the motor mounts to allow the engine to tilt back farther to try and get everything lined up. I tried that today in the morning and it seemed to work.

      So far the truck seems to be driving fine, with the clutch pedal engaging exactly where I want it to after some adjustment on the master cylinder. I've only driven it 40 miles or so, but haven't had any issues yet. Next weekend I'll be changing the clutch master and slave cylinders just for good measure (as well as double checking all the bellhousing and starter bolts to make sure they aren't backing out).

      Overall not an easy job but I'm proud I got through it. Having a removable rear transmission mount would have made everything significantly easier, though.

      Just in the spirit of everything else I worked on this weekend, I also installed a new driver's side window regulator, black front grille and new rear tail lights. I am also going to paint the front bumper black next weekend.





      I used the bread method to remove the pilot bearing, which worked very well:



      New stuff installed:



      First test drive!


    14. 03-09-2020 01:04 PM #38
      Since this is my “build” thread now I guess, I installed the new clutch master and slave cylinders this past weekend, along with new headlights and a headlight relay harness. I got H4 conversion headlights instead of going with LEDs as I felt the LEDs didn’t fit the look of the truck. While installing those I found some sketchy wiring and broken battery terminals so those were replaced as well.

      I also did a horrible paint job on the bumper but I think it’s looking a lot better now.

      Last edited by Raguvian; 03-15-2020 at 01:42 PM.

    15. Member Chris_V's Avatar
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      03-09-2020 01:54 PM #39
      Nice job and a cool little truck! I loved mine:



      I've always been keeping my eye open for a similar one in extra cab 2wd to make a lowered, home improvement run truck... Kind of like this one even though it's got almost 400k miles on it:

      https://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/d...088622702.html
      "Like a fine Detroit wine, this vehicle has aged to budgetary perfection"

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      03-09-2020 04:01 PM #40
      Quote Originally Posted by Chris_V View Post
      Nice job and a cool little truck! I loved mine:



      I've always been keeping my eye open for a similar one in extra cab 2wd to make a lowered, home improvement run truck... Kind of like this one even though it's got almost 400k miles on it:

      https://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/d...088622702.html
      Is that yours? I LOVE it!

    17. Member Chris_V's Avatar
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      03-09-2020 05:32 PM #41
      Quote Originally Posted by bnkrpt311 View Post
      Is that yours? I LOVE it!
      Yeah, the little Toyota was such a good truck. I was big into mini trucks back in the '80s and '90s. Here's a couple more shots of it:





      And one of my bulletsides:





      And the cheap-azz Chevy LUV:

      "Like a fine Detroit wine, this vehicle has aged to budgetary perfection"

    18. 03-09-2020 07:28 PM #42
      Those trucks are seriously cool! I’d love to build my truck to look similar to your Toyota (I love those three spoke wheels), but I’m not sure how much money I want to put into this thing. I want to replace the timing chain first and then decide if it’s worth lowering and getting wheels for.

      Problem is, I can’t find any low offset 15x7-15x8 wheels with the correct bolt pattern. I’m still throwing ideas around as I won’t buy anything for a while but so far I haven’t found anything I really like.

    19. 03-15-2020 01:57 PM #43
      Has anyone replaced the timing chain on a 22RE before? My engine is at 150k miles and I figure I should just do it since I don't know if it's been replaced. I want to get a metal guide timing chain kit and try to change it myself since I have to work from home for the next few weeks.

    20. Member GRNWNV's Avatar
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      03-15-2020 11:20 PM #44
      I want a proper early 90's lowrider so bad.
      This one is out of your budget, but pretty sweet.


      https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds...a/2386911.html

    21. 03-27-2020 08:37 PM #45
      Well, I found out that the timing chain on the truck was indeed replaced before, but in a horribly sloppy way. The timing was off at least a tooth, and the sealant job that was done was pretty terrible.

      Check out the amount of sealant on the pickup tube.





      Whoever replaced the timing chain didn't pull the pan and I found some of the original tension bits + part of the timing chain cover:



      Old timing (note at TDC the dot nearest to the black bolt head is off to the right):



      How it's supposed to look:



      I haven't driven it yet, but it does start up and run fine. I did note a ticking noise before I replaced the chain, which is gone now, and I'm wondering if the timing was off enough for the valves to lightly be contacting the piston. I will have to do a leakdown or compression test to verify.

    22. 04-12-2020 10:35 PM #46
      Alright, I'm having some overheating issues with the truck that I'm hoping someone here could help me decipher...


      About 250 miles ago I replaced the timing chain, water pump, oil pump and thermostat on the truck. It ran great for 250 miles, but last weekend it started over heating randomly. I thought maybe an air bubble was still stuck in there, so I tried bleeding it again and tried to get any air out (including squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses to force any air out), but the truck overheats just sitting on jack stands. Heater blows hot, no oil in coolant, but the upper radiator hose and thermostat housing don't get hot at all. Even with the needle getting to the H on the gauge I can keep my hand on the upper radiator hose and housing and it's just mildly warm.

      I took the thermostat out and it's installed the right way up, but can't tell if it's functioning properly (do I boil it?). It's a cheap $8 one off of Amazon, not an OEM one, so I guess a failure wouldn't be unheard of...

      Really confused as to why it's overheating, and why it started after 250 miles (if I had put the thermostat in upside down, or had a crap load of air in the system, I doubt it would have run fine for 250 miles, 140 of which was in one trip/day)...

    23. Geriatric Member BRealistic's Avatar
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      04-12-2020 10:48 PM #47
      Is the radiator clear?
      Vehicles owned (*=automatic):
      Chevy: 82 Cavalier Type 10, 94 Cavalier Coupe* | Chrysler: 96 Town & Country* | Ford: 73 F100, 88 F150, 18 F150* | Jeep: 78 CJ-5 | Mazdas: 83 GLC, 85 RX7 GS, 86 323, 90 323, 90 B2600i, 92 Miata, 97 Protege, 01 B2300, 01 B3000, 04 RX8 | Nissan: 90 240SX SE | Plymouth: 88 Caravan* | Pontiac: 84 Grand Prix* | Toyota: 84 Celica GTS, 02 Tundra*

    24. 04-13-2020 12:44 AM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by BRealistic View Post
      Is the radiator clear?
      I think so, didn't have a problem with it before.

      I just boiled my thermostat, thermometer read over 200, thermostat is a 195 and it didn't open. I just ordered an OEM one. Hopefully I can have it in this week and try again.

    25. Geriatric Member BRealistic's Avatar
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      04-13-2020 09:25 AM #49
      Even 195 is a hot thermostat.

    26. 04-13-2020 12:23 PM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by BRealistic View Post
      Even 195 is a hot thermostat.
      I believe that's the factory temperature. There's a dual stage one that has a smaller valve to open at a lower temperature, but it's more expensive.

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