VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner

01'beetle 2.0 won't start

3K views 48 replies 2 participants last post by  Andr3a 
#1 ·
it cranks fine but won't start. I charged the battery even tried jumping it with another car. I replaced the battery to ground cable and checked all the fuses. I tried another ECU which I know is good. I ran diagnostics on both ECU's but they didn't communicate. Just got fault codes 01314, 01316 and 01321.
When I turn on the ignition the brake, oil & battery indicators are flashing but I have no idea what that means. Help please!
 
#27 · (Edited)
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01316

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00849

Ignition switch failure or melted, plug, wiring seems like a possibility. Everything should be checked; repair, replace as needed. My plug and terminal ends were melted and the switch was defective; you can everything from vw original dealer parts or order online. I prefer genuine vw parts but aftermarket plug/pigtails and are available (i would avoid the cheapest brands like URO or Hamburg Technic, MTC, etc; they usually supply substandard Chinese sourced parts).

https://www.newbeetle.org/threads/ignition-switch-replacement-diy.59181/

https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...tail&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari
 
#30 ·
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Tuesday, 17 March 2020, 01:10:00.
Control Module Part Number: 1C0 962 258 P
Component and/or Version: 0G Zentr.Verriegel. 0001
Software Coding: 00256
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 341B9FD31723
2 Faults Found:
00849 - S-contact at Ignition/Starter Switch (D)
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent
01483 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
25-00 - Please Register/Activate

I checked the wires on the back of the ignition switch for voltage:

The two red ones got 12+ volts with the ignition off
The others get 12+ volts with ignition on.

But now the ecu stopped communicating again even so I still have that jumper wire to fuse 29 in place and the fuses are good.

I am just about ready to push this damn car into the bay.
 
#33 ·
I have already dealt with those codes. That's all good. I am no longer getting those codes instead i am getting 01314 and 01321 again.

I don't understand why I am back to NO ECU COMMUNICATION. That problem was solved when the ecu communicated again after I diverted 12+volt with the ignition on to fuse 29. That is still in place and I have power to fuse 29. Where do I go from here?
 
#35 ·
Well, this troubleshooting thread, has been going on for quite awhile; you may need to re-evaluate things and to make sure, we are all on the same page, review everything you have done, so far (e.g. checks, repairs, successes, failures, etc). I appreciate your frustration, most would have thrown in the towel; a long time ago. on this particularly challenging new beetle "repair project'! :facepalm: :banghead:;)
 
#36 ·
01314 - Engine Control Module
01314 - Engine Control Module: No Communications
Possible Causes
CAN-Databus Wiring/Connectors from/to Engine Control Module faulty
Fault(s) stored in Engine Control Module
Engine Control Module recently flashed or re-mapped
Possible Solutions
Check CAN-Databus Wiring/Connectors from/to Engine Control Module
Check Measuring Value Blocks (MVB)
Usually Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) 125+ show the current Communication Status
Special Notes
When found in the (1K) chassis with 2.5L gas engine using a MAF (G70) sensor, check the T121/62 (Red/Black) traced power wire to the ECM. If power is missing or a voltage drop is present that wire may be damaged anywhere between 6" and 18" from the connector itself. This will result in no communication in addition to a no-start.
Based on 2.5L Jetta feedback over the years a majority look like this example however some are damaged further away per this example: with the close-up and distant views.


01314 - Engine Control Module: Check DTC Memory
Possible Causes
Fault(s) stored in Engine Control Module
Possible Solutions
Check Engine Control Module for Fault Codes
Special Notes
Engine Control Module stored a Code which influences other Control Modules Functionality.
To clear this Fault Code you will need to correct the Problem in the Engine Control Module first.
 
#37 · (Edited)
The above fault, seems to be a consistent one; whether all the time or intermittent, I am not clear, as we have seemed to had many repairs, checks and intermittent problems, throughout this thread. As you know, it is hard to diagnose something in a forum without the benefit; of having the car in front of both, to work through things together.

The fact, that you have all kinds of odd things going on and communication issues with multiple modules (ecu, airbag, etc); lights in the speedo, alarm going off (many times the door lock module; will have bad micro switches), would seem to indicate to me, you have wiring problems or possible intermittent module failures (speedo cluster, other possible parts going bad; bad speedos, can cause a no start condition, random odd, immobilizer issues). Most of the time, the harder to diagnose problems we see with erratic and odd behaviors are electrical wiring harness in nature. A module like the ecu being bad; could seem like a possibility but from what you have said, you have replaced it with a "known good" part. I am not clear, as to your addressing any soft coding or immobilizer setting changes; that are normally made, in swapping in a new/used ecu. As you can see, this thread has gone on, for some time and there are a number of blanks, details about what you may or may not have done, parts replaced, wiring fixed. etc., that I cannot keep track of.

Please be patient: as we don't totally know; everything, you have done step by step to the car, diagnosing from afar, can be tough but we want to help! :) :p If you are willing to keep hanging in there and work through things, we can try to go over everything again (see, what would be the next thing to try; hopefully, we can cross things out, you have done, narrow things down, in a process of elimination). So, if you could review, everything you have done and then, we can try to evaluate the current status and what might be something to check next, we then, can go from there. When, things don't go to plan, failures re-occur or the previous diagnostic process, doesn't result in success, you need to start over and diagnose things again, keeping in mind, all the things that have been tried or done before. Hang in there, let us know; if you are still wanting to continue on, if not, you may need to have a professional vw shop fix things, otherwise, we can continue on and we can go, from there. thanks. :)
 
#39 ·
Let's start at the beginning:

Had my Beetle 2.0 for a 1 1/5 years without any problems.
One day as I was driving it lost all power. When I looked under the hood I saw that the wire from the + battery terminal that goes to the fuse box on top of the battery had broken off. I fixed it temporarily with some tape. I made it home and forgot all about it.
2 days later I stopped at Safeway and it cranked but wouldn't start. I towed it home and ran a scan:


VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Wednesday, 06 November 2019, 23:31:32.
Control Module Part Number: 1C0 920 906 CX
Component and/or Version: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 V03
Software Coding: 03232
Work Shop Code: WSC 11901
VCID: 79856EE770C1
Additional Info: Ident.-Nr. Wegfahrs.:VWZ5Z0N2267018
3 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-00 - No Communications
01316 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
49-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
01321 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
49-00 - Please Register/Activate
------------------------------------------------------------------

First thing I did was replacing the wire from + terminal to the fuse box on top. Then I noticed that the oil, battery and break indicators on the dash were flashing along with three beeps twice ( I never found out if that meant something, like a code).

So I got a couple ecu from the wrecking yard (this is an early 2001 model so it still uses the 80pin ecu, not the 121pin ecu) Two of them had the immo issue but the third one didn't and car started right up.

Then, after driving it for 2 weeks without any other problems it wouldn't start again. At this point there was no ecu communication problem but there was a fault code related to the throttle body (sorry, didn't copy fault codes that time). So I got another throttle body from the wrecking yard, cleaned it and installed it. I also checked the fuel pump and the relay. They were fine. Still, no start.
I ran another scan and the ecu's no communication fault codes were back. The flashing oil, battery and break indicators on the dash were also back along with three beeps twice

I tried both spare ecu's which had no communication problem before only the immo issue but this time neither one was communicating. I figured that the ecu itself was not the problem. I re-installed the one that was working before and carefully traced all the wires in the circuit. Turns out I had no power at fuse 29.
So I used a jumper wire from one of the other fuses that have power when the ignition is on to fuse 29 and what do you know, car started again.

Then I took the car to a friends shop for a tba because at the beginning of first and second gear the car was hesitating. But the tba was unsuccessful. Nonetheless, the car ran okay for several days until it wouldn't start again.

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Tuesday, 17 March 2020, 00:57:33.
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 018 JG
Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC M5.9.2 HS V01
Software Coding: 00000
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 709353C323BB
1 Fault Found:
01165 - Throttle Body Control Module (J338)
55-00 - Adaptation Not Successful
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Tuesday, 17 March 2020, 01:01:18.
Control Module Part Number: 1C0 920 906 CX
Component and/or Version: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 V03
Software Coding: 00031
Work Shop Code: WSC 11901
VCID: 79856EE770C1
Additional Info: Ident.-Nr. Wegfahrs.:VWZ5Z0N2267018
3 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01316 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
49-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
01321 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
49-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Tuesday, 17 March 2020, 01:10:00.
Control Module Part Number: 1C0 962 258 P
Component and/or Version: 0G Zentr.Verriegel. 0001
Software Coding: 00256
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 341B9FD31723
2 Faults Found:
00849 - S-contact at Ignition/Starter Switch (D)
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent
01483 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
25-00 - Please Register/Activate


Once again, back to the no communication, flashing dash lights and beeps + an intermittent fault code for the ignition switch "S" terminal. So I tested the ignition switch but all terminals had power under the right on/off condition. The jumper wire was still connected, fuse 29 had power with ignition on and the fuses were good.

This is where I am at now and I am stumped.
 
#40 ·
Hmm, reviewing your problem history; things, seem to have thrown similar trouble codes and the intermittent problem, has remained. Initially, you indicated, a wiring problem; at the battery, a first issue, that could contribute to your overall electrical issues. The ecu swaps and addition of a wire, to the ecu, that had consistent power failure, indicates a wiring problem.

Wiring problems, seem to be, one of the common problems we see and intermittent, connectivity being a particularly common problem, a challenge to narrow down the source of the problem, to finally fix it.

Going back to primary info; the trouble codes, being thrown:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01314

Possible Solutions
Check CAN-Databus Wiring/Connectors from/to Engine Control Module
Check Measuring Value Blocks (MVB)
Usually Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) 125+ show the current Communication Status

You already know, based upon your testing; you didn't have power, going to the ecu. While, you "added" power, to the ecu; I would think, the primary problem, should be repaired correctly, not just bypassed with a jumper and this, could also, be related to a intermittent ground issue.

There are a number of youtube videos; relating, to the same trouble code and ecu communications going down, causing a no start problem. In this case, he found a damaged wiring harness to the ecu itself, similar to the ross tech info, related this problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moGszDaCVME

While, this may not be the same cause as you; it does show, how a damaged wire, can bring things down. Checking, power, grounds and fuses, relays, should all be confirmed, visually inspected and tested.

When, I had this issue on a Audi; I was working on, I found connectivity issues at the ecu plug. I was running VCDS at the time and looking at live data, I did a "wiggle test" and found, the cable to the ecu, had a issue, dropping out the signals. When I pulled the ecu and looked at the plug, there was a water ingress issue, green corrosion, was in the pins, plug connector.

Many other videos, show, this can be a common issue with various reasons, for the code and no communication to the ecu, issue:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=volkswagen+01314
 
#41 ·
Moving on to other codes; that you seem, to be getting:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00849

The ignition switch, has many different things connected to it; as noted before and in the code definition, wires to the plug, the plug itself and the switch, should be checked. We have seen, a bad ignition switch; cause a no start condition. Pay particular attention to the wires, plug, switch; in my case, the wires had been getting hot, melted wires, the plug and the switch was bad. I would at a minimum, replaced the ignition switch; if the terminal ends are scorched, show signs of heat damage, plug warped, etc. replace the damaged parts. I replaced the switch, terminal ends and plug.

A good diy and examples of damage; are shown here:

https://www.newbeetle.org/threads/ignition-switch-replacement-diy.59181/#post-822968

Keep in mind, the switch; provides a connection and power, to many different powered things in the car. If the switch/wires/plug are damaged; it can cause, all kinds of odd electrical problems and trouble codes, obviously, a no start condition.
 
#42 ·
01483 - Control Circuit for Rear Lid Remote Unlocking

We have seen problems for the rear hatch; causing a code like this, many times it is, from the flex portion of the wiring harness, going from the body to the hatch. This part flexes and the wires, will break, killing power to the rear lock actuator.

01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234)

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01321

Again, wiring issues; shown as a possible cause for this.
 
#43 · (Edited)
So, we are seeing a history; of wide ranging trouble codes, about communication and power, being killed off to various parts, modules and components, in the car. Probably, the top problems with see with these cars; is electrical related, they can be intermittent and hard to trace, find, nail down. :facepalm: :banghead:

Fixing these issues, will take time, effort and a process of elimination. I would be investigating things and you should be able to perform, a step by step process to narrow things down.

The basics, shouldn't be overlooked:

1. Visual inspections:

a. @ the battery: power connections, fuse box (damaged/melted?) and ground under the battery tray. VW issued, a service bulletin; for the grounds, for the coil pack, under the battery tray; actually, creating new ground wires and insuring, a intermittent ground issue was resolved.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjGkFqdS52w

b. @ the ecu, fixing power issue and finding the source of the problem, not just bypassing it with a jumper wire. When you find the source of the power issue; it may end up fixing other problems, that are intermittently bringing the ecu communications down.

c. @ ignition switch: as noted visual inspections, replace all damaged wires, plugs, switch, etc. Many things are powered through the switch and a no start condition; is common, when these part are damaged.

e. the abs, rear hatch and other possible issues, can be checked out as well, you might focus, on those later and work through the ecu, no comm and start issues to begin with. We can work on those; once, you get the car running correctly.

2. VCDS, can be very helpful at times; it may take some time, effort to look up output testng or live data capabilities, e.g. seeing if the bus is "up", etc. but I have found it helpful, when used correctly. In your case, you seem to have the VCDS "Lite", which may limit your ability to use the advanced features.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Functions

So, this was a bit of rambling here but I hope it makes some sense. The common thread, seems to be communications, power and connectivity issues, going down. All of the evidence and codes; that you have shared, ALL point, to strong possibility of wiring/harness/plug issues (power, grounds, wires, etc). The wide range of codes, can be confusing but realize, when you have power/charging and/or wiring issues, a bunch of codes can be thrown.

It MAYBE, a case, where you have multiple electrical issues; going on at once and thus, the odd, various trouble codes. Recently, we had a long no start thread with a crank sensor code; it took awhile, to work through each issue. In that case, it was possible (three) different problems; were contributing to it, (bad wiring to the sensor, bad ground wire, bad coil pack). SO, that was a tough one but taking, each possible issue at a time, we worked through it and finally, got the car running right.

There is no magic here: troubleshooting electrical issues is hard work, you have to visually inspect, follow wiring diagrams, test, diagnose and work through the problem, a process of elimination. I don't know, if this helps but you have your work cut out for you. If you are up to the challenge; we are here to encourage you and try to guide things, give back/forth questions, attempt answers, in your process of elimination.
 
#44 ·
After I fixed the wire from the positive terminal to the fuse box on top of it I checked all those fuses and looked for any other damaged or melted wires. I traced everything thru the firewall to the power connections and relay panel under the dash and everything checked out fine.
The wires on top of the relay panel are a different story. I couldn't trace them because I couldn't reach them.
From the top I was able to check the wires and the connector to the ecu. There was no damage to any of the wires or the connectors to the ecu.
There was also no visible damage to the wires and connectors for the instrument cluster.

Where does fuse 29 get its power from and where does it go to after the fuse?

I tried to find out by looking up the wiring diagram for fuse 29 but now I am more confused then ever. I am having a hard time understanding the diagrams, no surprise there, electrical has never been my forte
 
#45 ·
I still haven't fixed the problem that caused me to use the jumper wire and I couldn't find any damaged wires during visual inspection. But I received my replacement ignition switch today. Even though I couldn't see any damage to mine I figured I got the new one so I might as well replace the old one and I am glad I did because the car finally started again. So trust your scanner if it says there is a problem (even intermittent) with ignition switch even if it passes visual inspection, replace it anyway (its cheap enough).
Which brings me back to the tba. Since the tba was unsuccessful is there still a chance the car could pass smog? MIL is not on.
 
#46 · (Edited)
Good, to hear; you have made some progress! :peace: Be sure, to inspect the terminal ends and plug; for melting, damage from heat, this is a common issue.

https://www.newbeetle.org/threads/ignition-switch-replacement-diy.59181/#post-822968

That is a good question (about smog testing; tba procedure): you might check your "readiness" tests and see, if they all are in "passed" status. Any check engine lights and readiness tests being passed, seems to be the primary issues that most smog tests look for. I guess, you won't know for sure; until, you actually, have the test done.

So, the throttle body; you cleaned it, ran the throttle body alignment procedure and it still won't pass? Are you still getting any trouble codes; related, to the throttle body? As, discussed in the past; wiring, plugs, can cause intermittent connectivity issues (replace terminal ends and plug; available from your vw dealer) and other times, the throttle body needs replaced, as it is defective.
 
#47 ·
I got: Throttle Body Alignment unsuccessful. Forgot what the number was. I will run another scan tomorrow.

:banghead:But I think I might have an even bigger issue: The vin is stored in the ecu, right?
Well, I never actually adapted the ecu after replacing it. I just plugged it in and it worked. So the vin from the car it came out of is probably still stored in the ecu in which case when I'll try to smog it it is going to come up with the wrong vin. Obviously I need it smogged for my vin but since the smog process is done entirely via the computer how is that going to work?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top