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    Thread: 200,000 mile 2011 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 resurrection * CRICKETS *

    1. Member tip's Avatar
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      05-11-2020 08:36 AM #176
      Nice work! Always wanted to try out the Raptor Liner stuff. I'll be looking forward to hearing how it holds up.

      Love the truck nutz
      @saugster_pnw

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    3. How do I resize a picture? Cabin Pics's Avatar
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      05-11-2020 09:31 AM #177
      That turned out great, good work.
      Instagram - efrie004

      Quote Originally Posted by cockerpunk View Post
      maybe its just me, but i wouldnt put anything in the circle of "unrealistic" when it comes to sex.

    4. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      05-11-2020 09:32 AM #178
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Sprayed with Upol Rapter Liner. Bed is their standard black, used a 4L kit. Body is tintable base with Ford Leadfoot Gray pigment/tint. Took 8L. Key with the tintable base is to have your paint supplier mix it without binders IIRC.
      Wouldn't have thought to do no binders.

      Standard paint sprayer, specialty nozzle?

      It's looking really good, that light grey came out solid.
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

    5. 05-11-2020 09:47 AM #179
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Removal would be a PITA due to the thickness and relative softness compared to paint. Trying to sand it off would just load up the sandpaper is my guess.

      Texture is a good thing for me...don't have to worry too much about hail, dings, dents, dirt, waxing, polishing,etc. Now its ready for truck stuff. Well, sorta ready until I get the engine swapped.
      I have had to remove this from a Jeep I did. Aircraft remover is the ticket. But I warn anyone trying it to wear a hazmat suit and a respirator. ITS CRAZY NASTY STUFF. And dont worry about putting down a drop cloth. It will just melt through it if it gets on the plastic.

    6. 05-11-2020 11:20 AM #180
      Quote Originally Posted by turbinepowered View Post
      Wouldn't have thought to do no binders.

      Standard paint sprayer, specialty nozzle?

      It's looking really good, that light grey came out solid.
      Stuff is thick, but can be reduced to work with different sprayers. I used the sprayer included with the kit. It has a long dip tube and the 1L bottles just screw right into the sprayer. Super easy.

    7. Member Pnuu's Avatar
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      05-11-2020 01:03 PM #181
      Quote Originally Posted by BryanH View Post
      I have had to remove this from a Jeep I did. Aircraft remover is the ticket. But I warn anyone trying it to wear a hazmat suit and a respirator. ITS CRAZY NASTY STUFF. And dont worry about putting down a drop cloth. It will just melt through it if it gets on the plastic.
      Oh man, yeah I've used aircraft stripper on bike frames but never anything larger. That's some seriously nasty stuff.

    8. Member Jettaboy1884's Avatar
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      05-11-2020 01:20 PM #182
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      No doubt they are cheap, but it's a double edged sword. Comparable Tacoma's are twice the price. If you don't mind a little work, Rangers arent bad.
      ^ Double edged sword for sure. Rangers are cheaper to buy and run which is appealing when you are looking for one. However, when the time comes to sell one that also works against you.

      That liner job looks pretty cool.

    9. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      05-11-2020 03:28 PM #183
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Stuff is thick, but can be reduced to work with different sprayers. I used the sprayer included with the kit. It has a long dip tube and the 1L bottles just screw right into the sprayer. Super easy.
      Awesome, good to know.

      I have a couple possible places where some durable spray on liner would be a great idea.
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

    10. 05-11-2020 05:43 PM #184
      Quote Originally Posted by turbinepowered View Post
      Awesome, good to know.

      I have a couple possible places where some durable spray on liner would be a great idea.
      Lots of offroad guys do rockers and fender flares, and other areas subject to abuse.

      Hell, might even be as awesome as FlexSeal...I hear it works great making screendoors suitable for boat bottoms.

      JK

    11. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      05-11-2020 05:46 PM #185
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Lots of offroad guys do rockers and fender flares, and other areas subject to abuse.

      Hell, might even be as awesome as FlexSeal...I hear it works great making screendoors suitable for boat bottoms.

      JK
      I have some wheel wells and nearby brackets to protect, yeah.

      This would beat the hell outta paying a shop to do those
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

    12. 05-13-2020 10:28 AM #186
      I learned something new today. Radio problems solved.

      I have been an audio enthusiast (borderline audiophile) since highschool. I have built numerous subwoofer enclosures for vehicles, full auto audio system builds, high efficiency transmission line home speakers, high end crossover builds, tube amps, built my own coax and RCA cables, and the list goes on.

      I am also an electrician by trade.

      So, this is humbling for me to admit, but the reason the old headunit failed was due to me installing component 6x9s in the back without a tweeter connected to the crossover. I wanted the soundstage to be in the front and only needed the rear speakers as mid/low fill. No it's not a high end system, but little details can make mediocre components sound good.

      So, no tweeter load on the simple crossovers essentially caused a short to the headunit. I have some 25W 4ohm resistors coming to install on the high pass portion of the crossovers to dummy the load.

      It's always something

    13. Member Stromaluski's Avatar
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      05-13-2020 12:09 PM #187
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      I learned something new today. Radio problems solved.

      I have been an audio enthusiast (borderline audiophile) since highschool. I have built numerous subwoofer enclosures for vehicles, full auto audio system builds, high efficiency transmission line home speakers, high end crossover builds, tube amps, built my own coax and RCA cables, and the list goes on.

      I am also an electrician by trade.

      So, this is humbling for me to admit, but the reason the old headunit failed was due to me installing component 6x9s in the back without a tweeter connected to the crossover. I wanted the soundstage to be in the front and only needed the rear speakers as mid/low fill. No it's not a high end system, but little details can make mediocre components sound good.

      So, no tweeter load on the simple crossovers essentially caused a short to the headunit. I have some 25W 4ohm resistors coming to install on the high pass portion of the crossovers to dummy the load.

      It's always something
      I never knew that either... Good to know!

    14. 05-17-2020 02:02 PM #188
      Well, not going to get performance figures. Drivers side guide is gone, sounds like hell. Had some noise when I got the truck, so I knew this was coming. Time to start disassembly!

      Messed around with the headlight stuff a bit too. Rough idea with lamps mounted. need to attach everything and do some finish work.











      Last edited by jaystone; 05-17-2020 at 02:43 PM.

    15. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      05-17-2020 05:11 PM #189
      Wow, that engine sounds awful!

      Good thing you have a refreshed one waiting in the wings.

      Are those both standard halogen projectors for the headlights?
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

    16. 05-17-2020 06:12 PM #190
      Quote Originally Posted by turbinepowered View Post
      Wow, that engine sounds awful!

      Good thing you have a refreshed one waiting in the wings.

      Are those both standard halogen projectors for the headlights?
      Yep, halogen. Not worth spending the $ on HID or LED.

      As for the engine, I'm just bummed I didn't have the chance to get a hoist home before this. Guess I'll have one shipped and sell it later

    17. 05-19-2020 06:06 PM #191
      Had a little slop in the driveline that I thought were the u-joints. So, took out the driveshaft and had a couple tight ones, but nothing sloppy. However, the differential was a different story. Lo and behold, more scope creep. Now I'm into rebuilding the rear axle. Sounds like a great time to take the factory 3.73 open diff and add a Yukon Gear LSD. Parts on the way.

      Also decided to futz around with the front skid plate. Speed holes are always cool. Stretched and broke the bolt on my dimple die though, skidplate is a little thick for it






    18. How do I resize a picture? Cabin Pics's Avatar
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      05-20-2020 12:52 AM #192
      Way to keep working on it.
      Instagram - efrie004

      Quote Originally Posted by cockerpunk View Post
      maybe its just me, but i wouldnt put anything in the circle of "unrealistic" when it comes to sex.

    19. 05-20-2020 06:22 AM #193
      i guess I've been around jeeps for to long because that ring and pinion slop seems completely acceptable to me.

    20. 05-20-2020 07:50 AM #194
      Quote Originally Posted by addictedtogum View Post
      i guess I've been around jeeps for to long because that ring and pinion slop seems completely acceptable to me.
      I will need to take it apart and measure runout, but I was getting an annoying drivetrain clunk when going into gear. My 4runner would do it when the driveshaft needed grease, so I was thinking u joints first. Turns out R&P is a bit sloppy for my liking.

    21. 05-22-2020 04:03 PM #195
      Well...progress.

      Sorry for vertical video clip.

      Driveshaft u joints replaced. Coat of paint for mad skreet cred. Skid plate cleaned and painted to match. Rear end disassembled. Had some old cans of graphite colored wheel paint that needed to be used.

      Runout was 0.100". Over 10x the recommended runout (0.007-0.009"). I have two bolts that snapped off in the diff housing. I will try to remove them, but may just goober it with RTV. I will grab a set of outer wheel bearings and seals to replace while I am in there.

      New R&P/LSD and all inner diff bearings/hardware will be here today according to UPS.

      Happy Memorial day out there.








    22. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      05-24-2020 12:15 PM #196
      Damn, that's a ton of slop in that gear!
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

    23. 05-24-2020 05:12 PM #197
      Broken bolts extracted. Couldn't find my easy outs, so I used a beat up T20 bit. Worked fantastic.

      Rain put a halt to some engine bay disassembly and I overtightened the pinion gear crush washer; rookie mistake. Replacement ordered.

      Maybe next weekend.






    24. Member Pnuu's Avatar
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      05-24-2020 05:24 PM #198
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Broken bolts extracted. Couldn't find my easy outs, so I used a beat up T20 bit. Worked fantastic.

      Rain put a halt to some engine bay disassembly and I overtightened the pinion gear crush washer; rookie mistake. Replacement ordered.

      Maybe next weekend.





      Can you replace the POS crush washer with a solid spacer? In the Toyota world, nobody runs a crush washer if they can help it...

    25. 05-24-2020 05:35 PM #199
      Quote Originally Posted by Pnuu View Post
      Can you replace the POS crush washer with a solid spacer? In the Toyota world, nobody runs a crush washer if they can help it...
      I don't think so, not sure how a solid spacer would allow bearing preload to be set. Maybe measure the crush washer thickness after being overtightened, add 0.001-2" and get a spacer machined. But when a crush washer is a couple bucks and works fine, not sure how much benefit there really is. Not like I will ever be takkng the diff apart again any time soon.

      Still, it is a good idea and worth thinking about.

    26. Member Pnuu's Avatar
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      05-24-2020 06:34 PM #200
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      I don't think so, not sure how a solid spacer would allow bearing preload to be set. Maybe measure the crush washer thickness after being overtightened, add 0.001-2" and get a spacer machined. But when a crush washer is a couple bucks and works fine, not sure how much benefit there really is. Not like I will ever be takkng the diff apart again any time soon.

      Still, it is a good idea and worth thinking about.
      The solid spacer includes a set of shims to adjust the preload. This probably won't be an issue on your truck, but when you're really beating on a truck with a crush washer you can deform the washer and lose your preload adjustment.

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