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    Thread: 200,000 mile 2011 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 resurrection * CRICKETS *

    1. 03-03-2020 09:42 PM #51
      First head done, on to the next one. Preliminary measurements of head showed less than 0.002, with final better than that. DIY surfaced on a sheet of glass with 150grit sandpaper, which is approximately 40-42 Ra surface finish. MLS headgaskets need between 30-80 Ra.


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    3. 03-05-2020 03:02 PM #52
      Aside from truck stuff, I'm planning on using my Ranger for winter duty when the snow is deep and a lowered Mk7.5 won't suffice even with snow tires. Block heater required and installed since it's not going to be garaged.

      As peviously mentioned, I've been collecting parts. What better place to keep them out of the wife's eyes than the back of the cab. Most of the engine parts are in the garage along with grill, sunvisor, and new drivers door panel.

      Speeking of interior, the OG seats are a bit worn and dirty. Instead of reuphostering, seat covers, or other means (like the gaffers tape on there now) I found a set of MINT low mileage seats for a song. Side airbag seats are a bit rare, so I lucked out.

      Next week I'll delve more into "scope creep" aka piston rings and honing






    4. Member TooFitToQuit's Avatar
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      03-05-2020 03:08 PM #53
      Definitely wouldn't spend the time to add in Hella 90mm halogens.
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    5. 03-05-2020 03:11 PM #54
      Por que? Are they no bueno?

    6. Member TooFitToQuit's Avatar
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      03-05-2020 03:13 PM #55
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Por que? Are they no bueno?
      They're not bad, but for the amount of work, the upgrade from stock is pretty negligible.

      What about an LED projector, Hella 90 or otherwise?

      I've retrofitted these housings and boy do they suck to work with (given how shallow and cheaply designed they are).
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    7. Member Pnuu's Avatar
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      03-05-2020 03:16 PM #56
      Nice job on the DIY head work, the resurfacing is especially redneck.

      If you have the halogens already, just buy or wire up a relayed harness and run some good PIAA or equivalent halogen bulbs. It will be bright.

    8. Member TooFitToQuit's Avatar
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      03-05-2020 03:18 PM #57
      Quote Originally Posted by Pnuu View Post
      Nice job on the DIY head work, the resurfacing is especially redneck.

      If you have the halogens already, just buy or wire up a relayed harness and run some good PIAA or equivalent halogen bulbs. It will be bright.
      10% brighter than standard halogens at best. Not worth it--especially with reflectors.

      "Upgraded" halogens last substantially less time and perform marginally better, and are often much more expensive
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      2015 Triumph Street Triple - Full build | 4 miles

    9. 03-05-2020 03:59 PM #58
      I'm looking for better than original Ford...which shouldn't be expecting too much. Hoping for better cutoff and decent visibilty without resorting to more $$$ means. Push come to shove, some Hella Rallye 6000's might end up on the front. F those LED light bars, keep it old school!

    10. 03-05-2020 04:02 PM #59
      Quote Originally Posted by Pnuu View Post
      Nice job on the DIY head work, the resurfacing is especially redneck.
      That's the point of this build. How far can I go and still end up with something that doesn't self destruct! I don't need another 200K out of it.

    11. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      03-05-2020 04:41 PM #60
      Quote Originally Posted by TooFitToQuit View Post
      They're not bad, but for the amount of work, the upgrade from stock is pretty negligible.

      What about an LED projector, Hella 90 or otherwise?

      I've retrofitted these housings and boy do they suck to work with (given how shallow and cheaply designed they are).
      True story, we've used Hella 90mm modules as OEM equipment in the past. Good lights.
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

    12. 03-07-2020 04:41 PM #61
      Ranger rear shock replacement step 1; remove leaf springs. Kidding. So I installed small lift shakles in the rear, about 1.5-2". Also swapped torsion keys and ditched the pretty worn Rancho shocks on the front. KYB Monomax's all around. Sits pretty level, 36" to top of fender opening.

      Tomorrow I'll mess around with some more interior stuff. Try to fix the half lit radio, loose shifter, passenger sunvisor, and drivers door panel.





    13. 03-07-2020 06:15 PM #62
      'member how I mentioned scope creep?


    14. Member bificus99's Avatar
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      03-08-2020 11:32 AM #63
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      'member how I mentioned scope creep?

      OK so whats the new plan?

    15. Member Pnuu's Avatar
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      03-08-2020 11:59 AM #64
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      'member how I mentioned scope creep?

      You had it down to a short block already, a ring-and-bearing job is only a few more hours and a couple hundred bucks.

      Until you go for new pistons.....

    16. Member Pnuu's Avatar
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      03-08-2020 12:03 PM #65
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      ...

      KYB Monomax's all around.
      Nice call on these, I stand by Monomax shocks as one of the best budget options for a utility/light offroad 4x4. They're hard to beat for the money. The set I installed on my old 4runner is still going strong with about 50k miles on them.

    17. 03-08-2020 12:23 PM #66
      Quote Originally Posted by Pnuu View Post
      You had it down to a short block already, a ring-and-bearing job is only a few more hours and a couple hundred bucks.
      Yep. That's the new plan. Pistons are in great shape with only minor visible wear on skirt coating. New Hastings Moly rings, King bearings and ARP rod bolts. Hone the bores, clean the block, triple check measurements, clean again, then reassemble.

    18. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      03-08-2020 02:29 PM #67
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Yep. That's the new plan. Pistons are in great shape with only minor visible wear on skirt coating. New Hastings Moly rings, King bearings and ARP rod bolts. Hone the bores, clean the block, triple check measurements, clean again, then reassemble.
      You doing ARP for the head studs too?

      Got a hot tank for the cleaning, or are you DIYing that at home?
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

    19. 03-08-2020 04:21 PM #68
      Quote Originally Posted by turbinepowered View Post
      You doing ARP for the head studs too?

      Got a hot tank for the cleaning, or are you DIYing that at home?
      Believe it or not, ARP rod hardware is cheaper than OEM Ford. I'm using Mahle TTY head bolts. Cleaning is also DIY. Simple Green, acetone, compressed air, and elbow grease (to list a few)

      First try with Android phone edited video clips. Short and sweet.




    20. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      03-08-2020 04:49 PM #69
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Believe it or not, ARP rod hardware is cheaper than OEM Ford. I'm using Mahle TTY head bolts. Cleaning is also DIY. Simple Green, acetone, compressed air, and elbow grease (to list a few)
      Having bought Motorcraft parts in the past, I'll believe it!

      I've done at-home "hot tank" type treatments in the past for crudded up VW diesel blocks, but I don't think I've had one clean enough that simple scrubbing and elbow grease would do the trick.

      Looking good!
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

    21. 03-10-2020 04:30 PM #70
      Radio lighting diagnosis complete. Desoldered the bad component. Can't find a replacement part though. DigiKey and Mouser got me nowhere. It's a surface mount LED, but protrudes into the LCD crystal and edge lights the glass.

      Oh well, $50 and a used OEM radio is in the mail.








    22. How do I resize a picture? Cabin Pics's Avatar
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      03-10-2020 04:33 PM #71


      Points for trying to fix the radio.
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      Quote Originally Posted by cockerpunk View Post
      maybe its just me, but i wouldnt put anything in the circle of "unrealistic" when it comes to sex.

    23. 03-10-2020 04:37 PM #72
      Started some reassembly.






    24. Member VW...vw...wv...WV's Avatar
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      03-10-2020 06:33 PM #73
      thats great


      Satan´s nopemares...

    25. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      03-10-2020 08:49 PM #74
      Looks great on the assembly!

      Also, if you still want to try fixing that original radio (maybe to resell? Spares? Fun challenge?) Hit me up with some measurements and pics. I have a bunch of coworkers that are board builders, I'll run it past them and see if they know where you can get one.
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

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      03-10-2020 09:34 PM #75
      I love Ranger threads, and especially love the slippery slope you're going down with the engine rebuild.

      I've had two Rangers, and had a thread on my last one a few years back. It was a $600 Junkyard save, which I unfortunately put a bunch of effort (and money) into chasing down various issues and frustratingly sold at a loss... It had a hole in a piston, which I would have caught if I had just done a compression test on Day One...

      Thread with fuzzy Photobucket Images): https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...meowner-Pickup

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