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    Thread: 200,000 mile 2011 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 resurrection * CRICKETS *

    1. 03-11-2020 07:04 AM #76
      Quote Originally Posted by turbinepowered View Post
      Looks great on the assembly!

      Also, if you still want to try fixing that original radio (maybe to resell? Spares? Fun challenge?) Hit me up with some measurements and pics. I have a bunch of coworkers that are board builders, I'll run it past them and see if they know where you can get one.
      I will get you a sketch with dimensions later this afternoon. My mom had a 2001 Regal GS years ago with dim transmission position lights. Couple $ in resistors to replace the burnt ones on the PCB of the instrument cluster. Little skill, little internets, little time = huge kudos from momma.

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    3. 03-13-2020 08:23 AM #77
      Old and Busted meet the New Hotness! And a carpet cleaning. Now it just needs a week to dry before seats get reinstalled




    4. Member
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      03-13-2020 09:01 AM #78
      That carpet looks amazing! I've spent so many hours with my Little Green Machine in the past trying to get super-disgusting carpet clean in the broken used cars that I've bought - The last few times I've just pulled the carpet out and attacked it with my powerwasher in the driveway, only because it takes less time than the hours spent trying to scrub it in place. What was your method? Or was it just not that bad?
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    5. 03-13-2020 10:16 AM #79
      Quote Originally Posted by ArmenB View Post
      That carpet looks amazing! I've spent so many hours with my Little Green Machine in the past trying to get super-disgusting carpet clean in the broken used cars that I've bought - The last few times I've just pulled the carpet out and attacked it with my powerwasher in the driveway, only because it takes less time than the hours spent trying to scrub it in place. What was your method? Or was it just not that bad?
      It was pretty bad, my method was similar to yours minus one step. I soaped and scrubbed carpet and then pressure washed inside the cab. There isn't any extensive wiring or electronics under the carpet to be concerned about, and the fuse panel in the passenger side kickpanel was covered with plastic to prevent excessive water intrusion. After pressure washing I spent the next hour with a shop vac and ice scraper removing excess water from carpet and pad. Use the ice scraper like a squeeqee. It will still take a while to dry. I "learned" this method detailing cars at a dealership 20 years ago. Is it the best way? Hell no, but it's ONE way.



      It makes a mess of the rest of the interior, especially glass and plastics. Definitely not a one day job.

    6. 03-13-2020 06:48 PM #80
      Started looking at seats closer. Seems the seller got his facts wrong. He is pretty sure they came from a 2011 extended cab ranger. Unless the extended cab 2d seats are the same as the regular cab...either way I'm going to have to rework the rails. Which entails drilling out the rivets and swapping mounts. Won't be the first time I've had to modify seat brackets and I am fully aware of the safety implications of such an endeavor. The last set of seats I did entailed grafting mk3 GLX seat bottoms with mk2 recaro lower bolster rails and swapping mk3 to mk2 seat backs to get late mk2 Recaro seats to fit in a mk3. Wish I still had pictures, but I told photobucket to shove it. Lesson learned on my part (backups 101).

      Let the chop cut rebuild begin

      Pay special attention to the rear of the seat mounts, original seats first with replacements second. Funny how Ford can make rod bolts the same between 5.0L windsor V8's and 4.0L SOHC V6's but redesign seat brackets between regular cab and extended cab Rangers




    7. 03-14-2020 03:18 PM #81
      Seats complete. Rivets drilled out with a plastic bag and magnets to keep shavings from getting embedded in the fabric or stuck in tracks. Brackets swapped with rosebud welds and some paint.








    8. Member Pnuu's Avatar
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      03-14-2020 03:42 PM #82
      Nice job on the seats. I've never been scared to modify seat brackets, but then again I am OCD about my work quality so things usually end up as good or better than factory.

    9. 03-14-2020 05:07 PM #83
      Quote Originally Posted by Pnuu View Post
      Nice job on the seats. I've never been scared to modify seat brackets, but then again I am OCD about my work quality so things usually end up as good or better than factory.
      Likewise!

      Next up...headers. OEM manifolds are inexpensive, but for just a little bit more I can get rid of the crusty old cast iron boat anchors for something shiny.

      Grade A Chinesium, but overall not too bad. The runners are all inset and welded on the inside of the flange, along with some stich welds on the outside of the flange. Collectors aren't fancy, but work. They are made for a variety of years 4.0 SOHC. As such, the passenger side EGR port wasn't needed for my truck. Cut off EGR tube and weld flush.

      Last, the flanges were not very flat; so off to the belt sander to flatten up the gasket surface.

      Ta. Da.


    10. Turtles walk slowly, but get angry fast! Smooremin's Avatar
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      03-14-2020 05:14 PM #84
      Looks great!! Glad to see you got the seats worked out.
      Quote Originally Posted by patrikman View Post
      Asking OT for relationship advice makes about as much sense as asking TCL what car to buy.
      Quote Originally Posted by ChillOutPossum View Post
      About 5 oclock I realized I needed to go to Costco for some white people stuff.

    11. 03-14-2020 08:00 PM #85
      Quote Originally Posted by Smooremin View Post
      Looks great!! Glad to see you got the seats worked out.
      I'm glad too. Not only are the brackets different on the back of the seat, but the rail length is backwards left to right (14.125 inside, 16.125 outside).

      Tomorrow I will get the drivers window regulator done. 2nd head is disassembled and soaking for a second time to RELEASE THE SHMOO!!! Next week I hope to have the longblock complete.

      In the mean time, plastic bag keeps dust bunnies from multiplying.

      I forgot to mention that old piston rings work awesome for cleaning out carbon/sludge from piston ring lands


    12. How do I resize a picture? Cabin Pics's Avatar
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      03-14-2020 08:56 PM #86
      More great work as usual. Keep it up.
      Instagram - efrie004

      Quote Originally Posted by cockerpunk View Post
      maybe its just me, but i wouldnt put anything in the circle of "unrealistic" when it comes to sex.

    13. 03-16-2020 06:56 PM #87
      Not much time today in the lab, got the passenger head on and torqued. TTY bolts tightened in steps. Lube threads and bolt flange surface; 24ft lbs first sequence, +80 degrees 2nd, and +80 degrees 3rd. Done...halfway


    14. Member Stromaluski's Avatar
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      03-17-2020 06:51 AM #88
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Not much time today in the lab, got the passenger head on and torqued. TTY bolts tightened in steps. Lube threads and bolt flange surface; 24ft lbs first sequence, +80 degrees 2nd, and +80 degrees 3rd. Done...halfway

      80 degrees? I've never heard of a torque spec having anything other than 45 or 90 degrees. It's hard to estimate 80 degrees.

    15. 03-17-2020 08:24 AM #89
      Quote Originally Posted by Stromaluski View Post
      80 degrees? I've never heard of a torque spec having anything other than 45 or 90 degrees. It's hard to estimate 80 degrees.
      It's a Ford, why would it make sense?

      To be honest, I did closer to 90. If it eats a headgasket, I will know why.

    16. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      03-17-2020 09:12 AM #90
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      It's a Ford, why would it make sense?

      To be honest, I did closer to 90. If it eats a headgasket, I will know why.
      Cummins does that crap too.
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

    17. Member Pnuu's Avatar
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      03-17-2020 11:42 AM #91
      Quote Originally Posted by Stromaluski View Post
      80 degrees? I've never heard of a torque spec having anything other than 45 or 90 degrees. It's hard to estimate 80 degrees.
      That's because the clamping load had been engineered to be a specific amount, and 80° of rotation produces that clamping load. It's not meant to be estimated, it's an exact value that should be met with a tool designed for the job:



      The reason why it's not an actual torque spec is because head bolts are usually installed clean and wet with fresh oil. This would never hit a repeatable torque value to get uniform load on all the bolts, thus the torque-angle method is used.

    18. 03-17-2020 12:33 PM #92
      Didn't know those were that simple. Put one on my wish list!

    19. 03-18-2020 05:27 PM #93
      New valve stem seals. New hydraulic valve lash adjusters. Getting the old ones out was a PITA as I think I mentioned before, vice grips and a heat gun to expand the aluminum around the adjuster just enough. Installation was much easier, put new ones in freezer overnight and the drop right in. Once warmed up, they don't go anywhere.

      Valve to seat mating surfaces freshened up with a little hand/drill lapping. Installing valve keepers is one of many jobs where 3 hands would be REALLY nice. Cam bearing caps require an interesting torque sequence; 53 in/lb and then 12 ft/lb. Bar type torque wrench from when I worked on bicycles came in handy.

      Fresh MLS headgasket and then crank it all down. Next is the timing chain setup. Gonna be fun I'm sure









    20. 03-18-2020 06:30 PM #94
      Also threw on the headers for fun. Oil filter adapter/pickup and passenger side collecter flange were a bit too close for comfort, so a little clearancing was in order. OEM exhaust gaskets are stamped stainless. With the imperfect flange surface of the headers even after surfacing I decided to go with the less fancy double metal compressable gasket; should have taken a photo, but its the 3/32 thick metallized stuff that looks perforated. Hope for no exhaust leaks. Exhaust stud threads chased and cleaned before new exhaust copper lock nuts bolted on.

      Cam jackshaft also installed with thrust plate. I've been using Lucas assembly lube, I used to have a tub of red ARP assembly oil/grease but ran out on the last motor I built (2.9L forged internal VR6 for booOOOOOSSSst). Lucas stuff seems decent so far.






    21. 03-20-2020 12:59 PM #95
      Got all setup to start timing the cams and realized I mis-placed the lower timing chain. I must have chucked it when I cleaned out the garage last weekend. DAMNIT.

      We got little over a foot of snow during the past 24 hours and I was really hoping to stay at home today; work got shutdown and a 3 day weekend was looking productive.

      Guess I'll shovel snow and chase the wife around the house with cold hands instead. Revenge for all those times when cold feet end up on me to warm up

    22. How do I resize a picture? Cabin Pics's Avatar
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      03-20-2020 01:26 PM #96
      Boooooo.

      Snow sounds nice though.
      Instagram - efrie004

      Quote Originally Posted by cockerpunk View Post
      maybe its just me, but i wouldnt put anything in the circle of "unrealistic" when it comes to sex.

    23. 03-20-2020 01:47 PM #97
      Quote Originally Posted by Cabin Pics View Post
      Boooooo.

      Snow sounds nice though.
      was blowing sideways yesterday. much calmer today.


    24. Member Pnuu's Avatar
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      03-20-2020 02:08 PM #98
      Bummer about the lower chain, but that's like $20 to replace so I guess it's not the end of the world. I would personally put in new chains and guides at this point anyway.

    25. 03-20-2020 02:36 PM #99
      Quote Originally Posted by Pnuu View Post
      Bummer about the lower chain, but that's like $20 to replace so I guess it's not the end of the world. I would personally put in new chains and guides at this point anyway.
      I purchased all new latest and greatest updated OEM Ford upper timing chain cassettes as well as the complete Ford update/fix kit they issued for the primary chain rattle noise. Came with new chain, tensioners, guides, bolts (stretch/single use) and gears. Last but not least, new OEM Ford upper timing chain hydraulic tensioners.

      That was the number one reason to rebuild a motor, replace all the timing chain components with new.

      Tascaparts has been my go to for Ford parts. $35 for a new lower timing chain from them. Not cheaping out on aftermarket for such a critical part, especially when there isn't an improved version anywhere (tensioners).

      I DID go aftermarket for the oil pump and thermostat housing. Melling high flow oil pump with steel pickup tube instead of the plastic Ford part. Also got an aluminum T-stat housing because the plastic Ford one likes to leak.

    26. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      03-20-2020 08:34 PM #100
      I hate it when parts go missing on me!

      Looks like you're still making good progress though!


      Also, looking at fresh snow pics when it hit 83F today just seems so weird...
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

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