Unfortunately the tap and die set didn't arrive this week, so I am going to test fit the wheel studs and hope that the threads are clean, which I don't really expect to be an issue considering they're just wheel studs and don't get taken out often. It's just the OD threads that are bad. I also plan on doing the deutsch connector this weekend. Maybe even take it for a drive!
Fit is pretty good! Almost perfect -- the only thing that would make it perfect is it the car wasn't molested for 25 years.
Next up: Some undercarriage shots.
absolutely DESTROYED motor mount.
Two horns, one disconnected, and the other doesn't seem to work. Fun!
Axle leakage. This is the passenger side axle @ the front diff
Driver side front axle for reference
So, I was cleaning up the back seat area and noticed a tiny bit of surface rust in the battery tray. I started cleaning it up with the wire wheel when I accidentally brushed up against the seatbelt base. Well, a spring shot out at mac-5 and scared the bajeesus out of me. Now I need to figure out how to get this back together.
Ordered a larger tap and die set because the tap set I ordered was one size too small for the wheel hubs... In the mean time, I think I am going to take the hubs off and let them sit in krud-kutter, including the brakes. Anyone know if this is going to absolutely destroy the integrity of them? The brakes have just been sitting so long that they have rust all throughout, and I don't want to replace otherwise very nice drilled and slotted disc brakes.
fun fact, that engine mount is the same mount from Mk1s!
Last edited by Chapel; 05-10-2020 at 10:00 PM.
fifteen52 + D-Ing Designs - Custom Turbo Fans for Your Wheels!
Casey Jones - Team Post Killing Ninja
Originally Posted by Surf Green
Ordered some things, did some things, etc.
First: Exhaust had to come off. The muffler was already removed in an earlier post but now I am removing everything up to the cat. It's just wack, frankly. The v clamps were rusted and heat welded on so were a paint to get off and it was just all very unclean.
Eventually I will be putting on an actual exhaust.
Hanger is a little less ghetto this time.
Because of this removal, this is how we sit currently:
Hmmm, that won't do. I have two choices -- either I put a downturn right there as it sits (From the downpipe), or I throw on the test pipe and put the downturn on that. Either way, it is going to obnoxiously loud and smelly. Guess it's a good thing we don't have emissions laws in Washington anymore!
This is what I ordered:
On to the interior:
I mentioned cleaning up the battery box of rust. I removed a little box that I imagine controls something because it has wires going into it. This also removed the foam seat (where it sits) to protect it. This gave me more access to the box to remove some more surface rust and paint over it.
I used a wire wheel and some sand paper and it turned out decently. There are some hard to reach places that will just have to get sprayed over, but nothing rusty.
I sprayed it one coat of Rustoleum 2 in 1 Sandable primer, then one coat of regular primer. I'll go over the top of it in black. FYI, this picture was a little bit before painting, and I cleaned it up a little bit more. These pictures were about half-way through cleaning (and I had already done the main box).
Back to the exterior:
I got the tap kit in but once again it was the wrong size. I'm starting to think maybe I should measure? Anyways, I decided to just go for it and install the new wheel studs and get the car back sitting on the ground (or dollies in this case).
Check out how nasty these things are... I'll get new ones in the future most likely.
I only had problems with one thread on the hub, but it worked itself out. I also removed the front spacers which made a solid difference in the look of these wheels on the car.
Check out the brake clearance -- you reckon this is okay? Its about 5mm I'd say.
I also tried tackling the O2 sensor wiring again, but I just got even more frustrated. There are three options for making it work that I see:
Option 1) Find an OEM insulated (clipping preferably) space terminal for each end. This would make switching out the O2 sensor for myself and a future owner much simpler as they wouldn't have to wire the O2 sensor in with a new connector.
Option 2) Rewire it the way we had planned with the deutsch connectors and then make one piggyback for the O2 with a spade terminal (and aforementioned clipping insulation). This would make it so everything else was the way we had planned but the O2 sensor is removable easily with the stock connector. This introduces one new failure domain as we have introduced another connector.
Option 3) Wire it the way that was originally recommended and have me/future owner wire in the connector each time they change the O2 sensor.
I like the current wheels but went looking for Turbo Twists on a C4, found this instead. I think they need big spokes like these, since the design is "heavy." A multi-spoke or something with dainty spokes just won't work:
Couldn't find any 996 C4S/Turbo style Turbo Twists on a C4, just the 993/986/early 996 turbo wheels:
Driving While Awesome Podcast. Give it a listen. Assetto Corsa Discord Link. Join us for some sim racing fun.
Originally Posted by Phillie Phanatic
As an update, if you want the hollow spoke Turbo look, the wheels you want are the Turbo Look II in 18x8 (part number 996.362.136.01). These are fronts. Rears for Turbo Look IIs are too wide (18x10) and the real hollow spokes are expensive and are even wider in the rear (8x11).
Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
Well, this has been overdue. I haven't done anything too major, just a lot of little things. No upgrades yet.
First off, I wanted to sort out the exhaust issue. I did a lot of grinding and such to the booger welds just to make it less terrible. Some of these welds were just embarrassing, but I am not one to talk.
I hesitated to go much further, but did clean it up a tad bit more after this.
I cut the end of the exhaust that was on there off. It had a massive, heavy magnaflow muffler with a flap inside that jiggled and was obnoxious, so for now we're just deleting it. I did try just going downpipe > atmosphere but it sounded like a tractor and just about deafened the entire neighborhood on startup.
This was how it looked like from the downpipe. Nope.
Now. Slightly better, but mega low. It was this low when I got it, but it is a pretty terrible design. Car is just about at its limits on lowness, which a couple inches from exhaust to ground.
It sounds okay ish. I haven't driven it yet as I am still getting it up to snuff. In the future i'll get a Stromung for it.
Next Up: Fuel
So the fuel gauge did not work and was annoying. PO said it is either the gauge or the fuel sending unit. Conveniently, he provided a used sending unit, so I decided to swap it out!
With the new one in, plumbed, and wired up, I did not get to even test it for two weeks! Reason being: paint.
You ever just buy a car with a hole in it? I did. I didn't know about it... you'd think it would be something a seller would mention. This one has a hole in it. I asked about it, and he said the male model cut it out. Probably a speed hole? No idea.
Anyways, it is just a wheel well. Nothing too crazy. I have one on order for the low low price of $600. I attempted to get one from a used car online, but the guy mangled the hell out of it when cutting it up and got mad when I decided not to buy his mangled wheel well.
While I wait for the new wheel well (hopefully it fits...), I decided to clean up the hatch floor. It was filthy from years of not having a floor and dirt sticking to the sound deadening.
I grinded the metal down and cleaned up some of the rubber coating. Didn't get it all, but there wasn't any rust, so it was really overkill to do this anyways. I just wanted to do it while I was there and had the free time.
Next up: Primer. I did it with sandable primer, but there wasn't much to sand anyways. Rustoleum brand.
Finally: Black. Rustoleum brand black paint, no gloss. Worked well. Pretty hard to paint while standing in a car hole, though.
I also cleaned up the wiring a tad bit (re-wrapped with new electrical tape in the same method as stock). There is a spare red cable that I believe I have traced back to the hatch side-panel that has a speaker/sub connection. I think so, at least. There was a subwoofer cable back there, and I know it is wired for speakers.
Plus, I put the trimp all back together-ish! Still some pieces to add, like the floor. The hole is simply covered by the floor cover for the meantime.
Okay, so I also wanted to fix the green painted bumper trim pieces that I have. These go under the headlights. I am a very bad painter, and these will later get re-done when the car gets repainted... if ever. Done with glossy black paint. I ordered a bead-blasting kit but it did not show up yet so I just grinded the thing down.
stop looking at my feet
Also did the hood mounts, as they were pretty beat. I think that's the last of the paint I am going to do for a bit. Eventually the suspension pieces will likely be powder-coated black, but that is for another time..
Between all of this, I also fixed some of the cabling in the rear hatch, but the soldering iron I had was insufficient, so I will be redoing it all properly with heat shrink and crimps, as recommended by a buddy over at Cobb tuning. I'll be doing the same thing for the O2 sensor.
Oh yeah, and the fuel gauge works, wooo!!!
- Rewire trunk cables
- find/order and install a battery tray + hold-down.. this one has none
- get one of the three radios that came with the car working. Not sure which one will work, but allegedly all of them do.
- Hood latch complete replacement
- Driver door latch fix -- waiting on mounting clips
- Dash back together
- Brake flush
- fuel system flush
- oil flush
Maybe the hole contained a huge subwoofer and he took it with him when he sold the car.
2019 Tiguan SE 4Mo Orange, temporarily stock. 2001 Passat 4Mo wagon, 1.8T/6sp swapped, Konis, coilover sleeves, A6Q H+R Race springs.
2005 Golf GLS, 2.Slow, Auto, GTI suspension, sways.
2001.5 Passat GLX V6, stock. (son#1), 2000 Passat GLS V6 fwd Tip wagon, stock (son#2)
Coming right along!
Great thread! It reminds me of my days, past..and my urs4.
Such great cars.
If you have a 5 cylinder, you don't need a stereo.
What is a Homologation car you ask?
Well, it's getting to the point where I am doing so many little things and it is hard to remember where I left off.
First off, I got the thing started. I initially tried starting it up and had it running for a few minutes when all of a sudden I heard a noise and the starter no longer worked. Turns out that was a stuck relay/ignition. So basically the starter was on the whole time the car was on and burned out the solenoid. Haven't replaced that yet, but luckily in my parts bin I had a spare starter. Got it installed and working.
I changed the brake fluid completely and bled it, ran some oil cleaner and changed the oil, changed the oil filter, then started it up again. Or... didn't. I switched the spark plugs out and when I put the plugs back on, either I put them on wrong or they were wrong from the get-go. Either way, the car was not starting, so in troubleshooting I realized the plugs were all wonky, so I put 1-5 labeled on the coils to 1-5 in a row. Hope that's right, but I should probably ask someone...
After this, I noticed a few other things. Oil temp and coolant temp both show nothing. Ruh roh! Tested to see if it was a stuck gauge by giving the dash a little punch, but nothing. So doing some research, it seems like the MFTS is a very common failure point on this era. Ordered a replacement and it arrived. I will be installing that today. I really need to do a better job of taking pics of these things.
I noticed that the engine also has an insanely quick warm-up time, as in I can feel the radiant heat within just a few minutes. I don't believe that is intentional, so hopefully this MFTS sorts it out. I am also going to be flushing the coolant system.
So what did I actually fix? Well, the hood latch has been sorted out. I ordered a part from FCP Euro which said it would not fit for $9. The "fitting" latch cost $100+, so I am glad this worked out. It was a major pain in the ass getting it installed. The little hooks and knobs and fiddly bits that can cut you are everywhere. I now have the hood back on and am happy to say that it opens. I also got all the clips in that I needed. Once again, just like the inner door (which now also opens and closes), the clips did not fit in the body with any strength so some gorilla glue sorted that out.
I noticed an exhaust leak somewhere under the car, so I will try to snug that up too.
I have sourced a floor, which I will be attempting to cut out of the donor car on 4th of July weekend. A drive across the state and some sketchy car in a random field plus some grinders; hopefully I do not end up dead. I should be able to get the windshield out of that car as well which would be nice because mine currently has a massive crack.
Here are some pics and such of some random things along the way.
Old dirty plug
.... Future problems, under the dash.