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    Thread: What is the best route to sell a moderately high value classic mustang?

    1. 03-18-2020 05:31 PM #26
      BAT is a great place for European and Japanese cars, but the audience tends to be younger than most auction houses and American Iron from the 60's and 70's tends to underperform on that site. The OP's best best is to get it running, enjoy it for a while until the markets recover, but not too long as the target audience for this specific car declines with every year.

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    3. Moderator Harv's Avatar
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      03-18-2020 08:33 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by sicklyscott View Post

      First I'd get a Marti report to verify it is what you think it is.
      This! Go get a Marti report. It will tell you literally everything about the car.

      https://www.martiauto.com/martireports.cfm

    4. Member fixmy59bug's Avatar
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      03-25-2020 06:06 PM #28
      Well.... Talk about being punched right in the bread basket.

      It turns out, the car I had been led to believe was a factory 1970 Ford Mustang Super Cobra Jet Convertible is just a clone.

      The 5th digit of the VIN on the fender well and the title is not an R but an F. Which would make this a base 302 V8 convertible.

      That would also account for the missing information tag on the door. And what I thought was the original window sticker is just a reproduction to reflect how the car is built NOW.

      I'll tell you what though. He did a damn good job ensuring it had all the correct parts that a 1970 SCJ would have down to the extra oil cooler on the drivers side and the extra horn bracket on the passenger side.

      So. That brings up a slightly different question, and I think this would depend on the bidders. But how much of a price difference would a clone SCJ bring as opposed to an original SCJ?

    5. Senior Member chucchinchilla's Avatar
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      03-25-2020 06:50 PM #29


      Price it for what it really is plus small premium for upgrades I guess. Clones are very hard to peg down when it comes to value because not every clone is 100% accurate and not everybody wants a clone.


      According to Hagerty's valuation tool for a 1970 Ford Mustang 2dr Convertible 8-cyl. 302cid/220hp 2bbl (base car as you described):

      #1 Concours $40,600
      Condition #1 vehicles are the best in the world. The visual image is of the best vehicle, in the right colors, driving onto the lawn at the finest concours. Perfectly clean, the vehicle has been groomed down to the tire treads. Painted and chromed surfaces are mirror-like. Dust and dirt are banned, and materials used are correct and superbly fitted. The one word description for #1 vehicles is "concours."

      #2 Excellent$29,300
      #2 vehicles could win a local or regional show. They can be former #1 vehicles that have been driven or have aged. Seasoned observers will have to look closely for flaws, but will be able to find some not seen by the general public. The paint, chrome, glass and finishes will all appear as excellent. No excessive smoke will be seen on startup, no unusual noises will emanate from the engine. The vehicle will drive as a new vehicle of its era would. The one word description for #2 vehicles is "excellent."

      #3 Good$17,200
      #3 vehicles could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 vehicle, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a fresh paint job or a new, correct interior where applicable. #3 vehicles drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts. These vehicles are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 vehicle.

      #4 Fair $11,800
      #4 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non- stock additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 vehicle.
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      This forum is more and more of an embarrassment every day...

    6. Member fixmy59bug's Avatar
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      03-25-2020 09:41 PM #30
      Yeah, it’s a real kick in the di*k.

      I saw that same valuation on Hagerty’s. It went from being a potential $100k car to maybe a $20k car.

      I figure maybe between good and excellent. The body is in great condition, but it’s not the original drivetrain.

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      03-25-2020 10:32 PM #31
      Sorry for your loss!

      Maybe you can afford to keep the car now?

      It's a project car, so it's not even a #4
      Quote Originally Posted by Mk1Madness
      Back when making your car faster and better handling was the big thing.
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      The car's best safety feature includes ejecting you in the moment of impact and wishing you the best of luck.
      Buy my couch!

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      03-25-2020 10:37 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by LT1M21Stingray View Post
      Sorry for your loss!

      Maybe you can afford to keep the car now?

      It's a project car, so it's not even a #4
      This, buy out your brothers' shares and fix it up. Keep for those nice sunny days and never regret it.

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      03-26-2020 01:50 AM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by fixmy59bug View Post
      Yeah, it’s a real kick in the di*k.

      I saw that same valuation on Hagerty’s. It went from being a potential $100k car to maybe a $20k car.

      I figure maybe between good and excellent. The body is in great condition, but it’s not the original drivetrain.
      Is that "between good and excellent" as it sits now, or after many weeks of work to get it back together?

      If it's currently dirty and disassembled, cut that value in half. Which now begs the question... Will you still sell it?

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      03-26-2020 09:26 AM #34
      I think it depends on the parts used. Is the block a correct SCJ block? Is it date coded correctly? Same goes with the trans and diff. If it's REALLY done well then it'll get closer to true SCJ pricing but you'll most likely never see more than the standard v8 pricing.
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