So I found this wagon with 58,000 miles on it recently and feel pretty lucky. We have had a Passat in the family since 2010 and have had good luck with them. As long as you know whats coming, that is. Like most german cars, O rings will leak, valve covers will fail, headlights will fade, driveshafts and wheel bearings will go South.....but the payoff is a nice car that gives reliable service as long as you keep up with the maintenance in a proactive way.
I quickly started searching for some nice 17" wheels on craigslist and with a lot of patience and waiting for the right set to come along, I found these for 150.00!
Of course, the tires were a bit pricey, but now I finally had a set of winter AND summer wheels! The 17s did make the car handle better.
I was able to fit my roof box from my other wagon and it fit quite well.
Since then, I have been doing the usual oil changes, coolant flushes, and transmission service. (ASIN) the latter is a must if you dont want issues.
the thermostat O ring began leaking soon after I got the car, it needed a passenger side drive shaft, and I replaced the front wheel bearings proactively as they were just starting to make a slight noise. but they are pretty easy to replace, and I knew it was inevitable.
The only thing I have done to it before the most recent work was to change out the rotors and pads. It has been behaving itself pretty well for over a year now, but the time has come for the next round of maintenance items.
Well, being in lock down has motivated me to get ahead of the curve, so at 86,000 miles, Im changing the timing belt and water pump, valve cover and gasket, cam chain and tensioner, along with the cam cover's gaskets and brake booster vacuum pump cover and o rings. They will leak on you eventually. The cam chain cover leak is especially annoying as the oil leaks down onto the coolant hose flange and deteriorates the hoses.
Timing belt area. The water pump is here too. Upon inspection, the belt, tensioner and pump are fine, Ill keep them as spares, but the two idler pulleys are questionable. Keeping the car's timing marks lined up is critical on these engines. I put alignment marks in multiple places....
Cam chain cover. This little guy houses a fuel pump (with pesky cam tappet that you should check for wear every 30,000 miles) N205 timing valve, the brake booster vacuum pump and will leak on you at anywhere from 50-80,000 miles. mine was weeping pretty good from at least 2 areas. but not too bad. I cleaned it really well and gave it a coat of satin silver.
Parts in containers: PCV valve assembly (replace every 30-50,000 miles), HPFP (check tappet every 30,000 miles), Vacuum pump (replace o rings at 50-80,000 miles)......
The plugs look good and the coils are fairly new....( change every 30,000-50,000 miles)
And Im toying with the idea of making my own cam lock tool...but this may prove unwise.....So Ive ordered a good one (assemacher) and we will see if mine even comes close to being able to hold the exhaust cam in place while trying to get that cam chain adjuster bolt out!.....
double plated, and welded together. figuring out the location of the bolt holes was, err, fun......
waiting on parts right now. so Ill keep plugging away at some cosmetic/rust preventive stuff like getting the rotors back in shape after a long winter.....
Ill keep the thread updated. feel free to ask any questions....
thanks for lookin
Last edited by silver06passat; 03-27-2020 at 09:31 PM.
Cam cover is now ready for reassembly, but will have to wait for all the other parts to arrive and be assembled. I did get both rotors cleaned up and painted along with the 17" wheels and tires back on the car, ready for warmer weather.
I double checked the timing marks on the crank pulley and cam gear after rotating the motor over by hand a few times. all seems good. the timing belt tensioner is still right where it should be in terms of adjustment. whew.
Motor mounts went back in which allowed me to remove the engine hanger...This tool has come in very handy, glad I bought one.
and ALL B6 Passats that I have ever seen eventually develop rust right in the center of the wheel arch, where the inner fender liner rubs slightly and debris seems to sit at that spot....I got after this one before it rusted through or became to complicated to do at home.......This pic is from inside the fender (no liner) and shows the inside of the fender and fender lip....
and a few extra sheets of paper to help prevent overspray.....I used a rust converter to start with and will finish with a gloss black for the lip and some truck bedliner material for the inner fender. I have been using a rust treatment called Fluid Film with good success. its a sort of cavity wax that runs into all the seams and nooks and crannies when it gets warm enough.....
The cam lock tool showed up today and I put it right to work. With that bolted in place, I checked the timing marks one more time and got ready to try and remove the cam adjuster bolt.
The bad news:
Broke the tool and stripped the bolt!...In the end the polydrive tool I got from ECS was not a great fit. Usually they are spot on with everything I have gotten from them, but this tool was not up to the task. When it broke, it trashed the bolt head.
Have a plan B:
I was prepared to drill out the bolt head. This was not without some nervousness. Taking drill bits and making filings and metal dust near the timing devices on these cars is full of potential hazards.
heres the carnage! If there is any good luck in this, its that the rest of the bolt was loose when I went to drill it. I just turned it out with my fingers!
I had even made this "apron" around the cam shaft ends to keep the metal shavings from getting into the oil passages,ect.
The new parts are ready to go back in, but I had to do a little research first. Setting the cams in time with the rest of the motor needs to be spot on. Everything looks good in that regard, but Ill be measuring the cam lobe position on cylinder 4 before attaching the chain. I may end up taking the cam adjuster unit cover off to be sure there is no metal dust in there from getting the bolt out. If only I had the right polydrive bit!
thanks for lookin....more trials and tribulations as I proceed.
Im glad I disassembled the VW VVT Camshaft Control Module unit. As I suspected, there were metal shavings and debris inside the unit!...The long and short of it all is this: I SHOULD HAVE PUT TAPE AROUND THE INSIDE OF THE VALVE BODY WHERE THE BOLT HEAD IS LOCATED first and before I did any drilling. The passages that send oil to the different sections throughout the valve are located here and just sucked up any debris as the oil was receding inside the holes.
LESSON LEARNED THERE. SO if you get stuck with a stripped bolt head while attempting this job, please do yourself a favor and seal up those passages before you even think of getting the drill out.
For the community at large, here is the dissection of the VVT unit:
removed the star bit bolts and took the cover off. (there is no sealing o rings like on previous versions of this unit)
a close up of the indexing mark at the top of the VVT body. (the tiny sqare) Though it is not necessary to realign the cover to the marks it made me feel better doing so.
and here is where it gets ugly. you can see all the debris that made its way into the unit. Had I run this, I would have trashed at least the unit causing all kinds of error codes and contaminants flowing through the motor.
this is what rotates back and forth to control cam timing. all these pieces are highly machined and polished beautifully....
the base plate with more debris on it. this there is a locking pin that holds the cams in place before oil pressure builds up to push the pin back so the cams are adjustable.
all cleaned up and ready for reinstallation.
assembled in the reverse of disassembly. one tricky part: the rubber grommet on top of the spring has a groove in it which needs to line up with an oil feed groove in the "adjustment wheel". you can see the two parts in the baggie above. the cover just needs to be carefully placed back on the unit which presses the spring and grommet back in place. the cover will fit nicely if the grommet is in place correctly. It will NOT fit right if the grommet has moved off the spring as you put the cover back in place.
Then its ready to go back on the car. I would double check these specs, but information I have found suggest the new VVT bolt should be tightened to 15ft lbs plus 45 degrees or 1/8 turn. I am using blue lock tight.
There is a good procedure on you tube that shows how to retime the cams by locking the exhaust cam at the timing mark on the timing belt side gear and timing cover. Then rotating the intake cam so the VVT and chain fit properly on the exhaust cam. worked great for me.
You can see my pen marks here before I set the cam timing. The Cam lock tool ONLY HOLDS THE CAMS FROM TURNING and should not be used as a final timing indicator. The timing must be set to specs at the cams and chain and timing belt-crank pulley while the motor is at TDC on cylinder 1.
there are a few things to button up. word on the street for torque specs is 7ft lbs for the tensioner, timing case and hpfp bolts. Ill turn the motor over a few times by hand before starting it. Ill also add a little fresh oil near the cam chain side of the motor to be sure there is some oil in the cam cover.
Jcas120, so true. Cam cover and booster pump had to be done twice on the wife's old 06 passat...(206,000 miles when we sold it on)
I did get a bit more buttoned up this evening...cam cover, N205 valve (cleaned out all the old black oil and put in fresh oil before reinstalling), booster pump, fuel pump and follower, and a new valve cover and gasket. PCV assembly back in place too...clean is good!
So now all I seem to have left is adding coolant back in, reinstalling the battery, resetting the transmission relearn, and having enough guts to push the key fob!
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