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    Thread: Charcoal Canister Question

    1. Member
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      05-22-2020 02:54 PM #1
      Hey all,

      So I have been doing research on the charcoal canister and people deleting them. Mine was deleted by the old owner, and he capped off all of the vacuum lines, and fed the fuel tank evap line into the fender. If I ended up getting the Volvo replacement vapor canister (Volvo 9186744) which lines would I have attached? I see people talking about using this as a replacement, but would like help knowing where to attach it, or if I should just put my original canister back on. Is there issue with having all those vacuum lines plugged like that? Or with the fuel evap just going into the fender wall?

      Thanks all

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    3. Member GTIVRon's Avatar
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      05-22-2020 04:31 PM #2
      With the vent in the fender you're likely smell fuel vapors.

      Only other issue really is if the purge valve was disconnected and not "tricked" with a resistor or something. Open circuit there would disable fuel trims (if memory serves).
      2002.5 Jetta 1.8T - TOTALED (dodging deer)
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    4. Member
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      05-22-2020 07:18 PM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by GTIVRon View Post
      With the vent in the fender you're likely smell fuel vapors.

      Only other issue really is if the purge valve was disconnected and not "tricked" with a resistor or something. Open circuit there would disable fuel trims (if memory serves).
      Can you keep the purge valve without the charcoal canister? Both were deleted by PO


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    6. Member GTIVRon's Avatar
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      05-22-2020 11:29 PM #4
      I guess you could. It's recommended to keep and cap the valve when you're doing a delete, or resistor out the solenoid valve. That way fuel trims keep working. If Google doesn't tell you what resistor to use I'll measure mine tomorrow.

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      2002.5 Jetta 1.8T - TOTALED (dodging deer)
      2002.5 24v GTI - TOTALED (rear-ended by a Jeep)
      1992 Corrado SLC - Daily Driven (when it's not broken)
      2012 Golf R - Daily Driven (when Corrado's broken)

    7. Member
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      1990 Corrado G60
      05-23-2020 09:19 AM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by GTIVRon View Post
      I guess you could. It's recommended to keep and cap the valve when you're doing a delete, or resistor out the solenoid valve. That way fuel trims keep working. If Google doesn't tell you what resistor to use I'll measure mine tomorrow.

      Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
      I could always put the valve back in, re-run vacuum lines, and cap off the valve if there’s no resistor in place. Also that would be awesome sir!


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    8. Member GTIVRon's Avatar
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      05-23-2020 12:28 PM #6
      On my 92 distributor VR6... Evap solenoid measured 45ohms. I'm not going to lie and say I know for sure but I'm assuming it's a 5v circuit. That would be less than 1 watt. Even at 12v it's less than 10 watt.

      Although, if you have the solenoid just plug it back in. If you're keeping the canister deleted keep the tank line vented and cap the line that goes to the intake. No other vacuum lines should be affected. Solenoid just has the line from tank on one side, intake connection other side.

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      2002.5 Jetta 1.8T - TOTALED (dodging deer)
      2002.5 24v GTI - TOTALED (rear-ended by a Jeep)
      1992 Corrado SLC - Daily Driven (when it's not broken)
      2012 Golf R - Daily Driven (when Corrado's broken)

    9. Member
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      05-23-2020 12:42 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by GTIVRon View Post
      On my 92 distributor VR6... Evap solenoid measured 45ohms. I'm not going to lie and say I know for sure but I'm assuming it's a 5v circuit. That would be less than 1 watt. Even at 12v it's less than 10 watt.

      Although, if you have the solenoid just plug it back in. If you're keeping the canister deleted keep the tank line vented and cap the line that goes to the intake. No other vacuum lines should be affected. Solenoid just has the line from tank on one side, intake connection other side.

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      Would I cap off the line going to the back or front of the intake? Also purge valve vacuum line, run that one?


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      05-23-2020 12:43 PM #8
      Because there is one going into the back of the throttle body and one going into the front of the intake. So cap off intake, run the back of throttle body and purge valve?


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    11. Member GTIVRon's Avatar
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      05-23-2020 12:54 PM #9
      Not sure which line you are referring to as front of intake.

      Stock setup for evap;
      Tank vent hose > charcoal canister > hose to connector side of evap solenoid > evap solenoid > hose to bottom side of throttle body after the butterfly valve.

      If you're deleting the canister, route the first hose from tank to where you want it to vent. Remove the hose between the canister and solenoid. Remove the hose between solenoid and throttle body. Then you need to cap the hole on the throttle body so you don't have a large vacuum leak. The solenoid can just sit there, but it's good practice to cap the inlet and outlet ports. It's not doing anything but capping it just protects it from contamination in case you decide you want to use it again. Or you can remove the solenoid and put a resistor in the harness connector so ECU doesn't read it as open.

      Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
      2002.5 Jetta 1.8T - TOTALED (dodging deer)
      2002.5 24v GTI - TOTALED (rear-ended by a Jeep)
      1992 Corrado SLC - Daily Driven (when it's not broken)
      2012 Golf R - Daily Driven (when Corrado's broken)

    12. Member
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      05-23-2020 01:26 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by GTIVRon View Post
      Not sure which line you are referring to as front of intake.

      Stock setup for evap;
      Tank vent hose > charcoal canister > hose to connector side of evap solenoid > evap solenoid > hose to bottom side of throttle body after the butterfly valve.

      If you're deleting the canister, route the first hose from tank to where you want it to vent. Remove the hose between the canister and solenoid. Remove the hose between solenoid and throttle body. Then you need to cap the hole on the throttle body so you don't have a large vacuum leak. The solenoid can just sit there, but it's good practice to cap the inlet and outlet ports. It's not doing anything but capping it just protects it from contamination in case you decide you want to use it again. Or you can remove the solenoid and put a resistor in the harness connector so ECU doesn't read it as open.

      Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
      The one that I am referring to is the one that hooks to the connector tee on the front of the intake manifold. The circled area is what I’m referring to.


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    13. Member GTIVRon's Avatar
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      05-23-2020 01:29 PM #11
      Oh on a G60 I can't be of help. Sorry man I just assume most have VR6s. Ha ha. In that case.. how many ports on your evap solenoid? You most likely want to just cap the hose right at the solenoid. If you remove the hose from the fuel tank, just cap there.

      Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
      2002.5 Jetta 1.8T - TOTALED (dodging deer)
      2002.5 24v GTI - TOTALED (rear-ended by a Jeep)
      1992 Corrado SLC - Daily Driven (when it's not broken)
      2012 Golf R - Daily Driven (when Corrado's broken)

    14. Member
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      05-23-2020 01:39 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by GTIVRon View Post
      Oh on a G60 I can't be of help. Sorry man I just assume most have VR6s. Ha ha. In that case.. how many ports on your evap solenoid? You most likely want to just cap the hose right at the solenoid. If you remove the hose from the fuel tank, just cap there.

      Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
      Haha all good! There are three vacuum lines to the solenoid. One to the front (that I have circled), one to the back of the throttle body, and one under where the throttle body opens up (at the purge valve). So I wasn’t sure which ports to plug, and which to keep open. I would assume plug the one to the front of the intake, but I’m not sure about the throttle body ones


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    15. Member GTIVRon's Avatar
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      05-23-2020 01:59 PM #13
      If I were guessing, the evap solenoid has 1 connection for the fuel vapor, then two outlets for either boost/vacuum condition.

      In theory you should be able to just remove the connection for the fuel vapors and cap that port so it's not a boost/vacuum leak. Leave everything else as it is.

      Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
      2002.5 Jetta 1.8T - TOTALED (dodging deer)
      2002.5 24v GTI - TOTALED (rear-ended by a Jeep)
      1992 Corrado SLC - Daily Driven (when it's not broken)
      2012 Golf R - Daily Driven (when Corrado's broken)

    16. Member
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      05-23-2020 02:36 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by GTIVRon View Post
      If I were guessing, the evap solenoid has 1 connection for the fuel vapor, then two outlets for either boost/vacuum condition.

      In theory you should be able to just remove the connection for the fuel vapors and cap that port so it's not a boost/vacuum leak. Leave everything else as it is.

      Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
      Thank you sir for all your help!


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