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    Thread: perusing things and found this.

    1. Senior Member briano1234's Avatar
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      08-11-2020 09:37 AM #1

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      08-11-2020 09:41 AM #2
      It's probably made of Chinesium but it does look shiny nice from here. Off topic, but has anybody else had trouble ordering from Aliexpress?

      I instinctively click away from it while shopping because after an order failed to arrive, I found no recourse (like one has with EBay) and ended up eating it. It was a small amount but it has made me hesitant ever since. I'm curious if I'm the only one?
      It's hard for me to know exactly what these things cost me. I'm guessing a LOT, but I like them, so that's that.

    4. Senior Member briano1234's Avatar
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      08-11-2020 09:48 AM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by echassin View Post
      It's probably made of Chinesium but it does look shiny nice from here. Off topic, but has anybody else had trouble ordering from Aliexpress?

      I instinctively click away from it while shopping because after an order failed to arrive, I found no recourse (like one has with EBay) and ended up eating it. It was a small amount but it has made me hesitant ever since. I'm curious if I'm the only one?
      I don't think I have ever ordered from Ali knowingly.....but I did see they have a buyer protection section now....

      I think that years ago when I was looking at that site I found that you had to order quantities in excess of 15-20....which is probably why I stayed away from them, but cheap metal chinesium is probably better than the Plastic chinesium..... which is probably why I went the wrecking yard conversion to the 16V CTS on my Digi's.

      https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3296562...6b46119aCNxMpW




      https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cast-Alumin...-/323164212997



      ohhh ebay
      https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Water-Flange...-/311890332290

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      08-11-2020 09:52 AM #4
      Once. I was willing to waste the $90. The transaction was fine. If I recall, the money did not transfer until I said I had the part. I may be wrong because the only issue with me was getting the part and I did.

      I'm not certain what is better, old German plastic or new Chinese aluminum [if that is indeed what it is].

    7. Senior Member briano1234's Avatar
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      08-11-2020 09:59 AM #5
      Well I suspect that is why I went old school and strictly OLD VW parts fro a yard near you.... but I have found that since I converted, I have never had another cracked leaking ear or flange issue...

      But I had never found a metallic 92 Digi flange...till today.

    8. Member rabbitnothopper's Avatar
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      08-18-2020 01:29 PM #6
      hmm.... chinese aluminum parts....

    9. Senior Member briano1234's Avatar
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      08-18-2020 06:24 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by rabbitnothopper View Post
      hmm.... chinese aluminum parts....
      better than plastic as you can re-solder them.

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      09-07-2020 11:47 AM #8
      Took a gamble and bought one because frankly I have never liked the look of the conversion I did previously using the 16v CTS and having to clip the connector off the other sensor wire and having it grounded to the bolt on the flange. The flange also weeps at the CTS no matter what I’ve tried. Unfortunately, I think I accidentally tossed my old sensors and that connector I clipped off during a big garage clean up. So if anyone has part number handy for that I’d appreciate it.

      I’ll let you know how it is when I take the time to get it on. Here are high res pics for now...















      Last edited by agentphish; 09-07-2020 at 11:55 AM.

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      09-07-2020 12:40 PM #9
      As you would expect, it needs a lot of prep to be useful.

    12. Senior Member briano1234's Avatar
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      09-08-2020 10:02 AM #10
      Looks similar to the lower castings for the t-stat that I bought from GAP years ago, that had to be cleaned up, GAP probably bought from same vendor...

    13. Member flying_oliver's Avatar
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      09-10-2020 01:36 AM #11
      Nice find!!

      I've ordered a few things from aliexpress successfully. Might just have to give these a shot.

      How much cleaning up of the gasket surfaces do you all think needs to be done? It definitely is a little rough.....

    14. Senior Member briano1234's Avatar
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      09-10-2020 06:56 AM #12
      On the t-stat cover I got from GAP, I noticed that the edges for the o-ring was too sharp so I used sandpaper to dull the edges, and you would need to clean any slag off of it with a file.

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      09-16-2020 01:20 AM #13
      Cracked during the installation. Torqued to 87 in-lb and then leaked where the tube meets the flange part that has the bolt holes. Removed and observed this!




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      09-16-2020 11:08 AM #14
      Although there was not a lot of wasted time/money, it just proves that aluminum is not any better than plastic.

      Plastic is not that bad. Most of the time when it fails, it's old. That is where it gets a bad rap. It's ok for any part, to fail after 20 years. It's done it's job.

      Go buy a good plastic part. Stay away from URO and Meyle. Be prepared to spend around $15-$20. Anything less is junk.

      I appreciate you taking one for the team and proving cheap parts fail. Plastic or aluminum.

    17. Member matty kirk's Avatar
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      09-17-2020 12:35 AM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by Butcher View Post
      Although there was not a lot of wasted time/money, it just proves that aluminum is not any better than plastic.
      Comparing the cheapest possible aluminum part to any half decent plastic part is certainly one way to validate one's opinion.
      Even a blind squirrel finds a nut in the dark, sometimes.

    18. Senior Member briano1234's Avatar
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      09-17-2020 08:42 AM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by Butcher View Post
      Although there was not a lot of wasted time/money, it just proves that aluminum is not any better than plastic.

      Plastic is not that bad. Most of the time when it fails, it's old. That is where it gets a bad rap. It's ok for any part, to fail after 20 years. It's done it's job.
      Quote Originally Posted by matty kirk View Post
      Comparing the cheapest possible aluminum part to any half decent plastic part is certainly one way to validate one's opinion.
      While I changed my parts off for ones off of running or Junkyard pre-owned aluminum or pot metal parts albeit the t-stat flanges that I bought from GAP prior to the bankruptcy, they have not failed me at all. Before I found the Gap t-stat covers, (which probably came from China).... I had replaced the head flanges both in the front and the side with ones off of older Diesel Rabbits and Golfs. I bought many a front water outlet from Various places and had to replace them in the middle of the night they too were probably chinese made, I did find however that the ones that I bought from NAPA for 25 bucks a shot, and I usually bought 2 at a time one to use and one for spare that the were made in IRELAND and tended to last about a year, which was better then the 2 months or so out of the others.

      There are unknowns here as to how it was installed, as we all know if you tighten a part down on one side, then tighten the other a crack can form, I usually take a 2 bolted part down equally then after a snug, I apply the proper torque. I am not saying that that was the case for failure but from the crack that would be my first assumption, or that the o-ring was too thick.

      Don't knock my conversion of the front flange off the older golfs and Cabriolets, as I have found that the 16V CTS sensor to be more reliable, and hadn't failed me as frequently as the Blue ones did, nor have I had any of my flanges break.

      The fact is that whether the flange is plastic or metal. The front one should fail more often as the engine vibration is to the front and rear of the engine as you look at it.
      The Plastic Flange is being pulled on by the rubber radiator hose and that is going to weaken it. I have seen first hand what long term use of plastic flanges do, crack on the ears, leaking Ovaling and leaking, or bad design where the metal bushings slide within the plastic portion or have seen them taller than the plastic where I had to file them flush on either side so they hold the part to the head equally.

      You are correct in saying that a plastic part that gives up after 20 years has done its job, which is a good thing, but in my case, on a good running engine with good mounts, I have in the past yet to see a water outlet flange on my Cabriolets last more than 9 months. Cost reduction in manufacturing, the use of improper plastics is another...Shoot I have bought O-Rings with the same part number from different vendors that had different thicknesses...

      Proper installation techniques are paramount to useability, while I am not saying that there may be a few bad apples in the parts barrel, as I have experienced 3 bad heater valves from the same vendor at the same place on the part which suggests to me poor manufacturing. I know from first hand experience that manufacturers will find issues in the production line, and instead of culling the parts to weed out the bad, they let them go out, and then when they come back they take the bite, where a lot of times the purchaser just chucks it in the round file and buys another.

      Just saying there is no blanket correlation between plastic and metal with one being superior to the other, but from my point of view with what has happened to me with plastic, the old 20 year old metal part off a Junkyard car is way better than a new to you plastic one. In the old days, companies were run by engineers, that wanted dependability and brand reliance for durability, now a days the companies are run by Accountants or those with MBA's that have a degree in fine arts and no engineering skills that only look at the bottom line.

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      09-17-2020 12:13 PM #17
      I'll agree it's probably a poor comparison if I was trying to prove that plastic is better than aluminum.

      Plastic is sold as a bad idea in these parts. I'm trying to prove that cheap is bad. I know my words do not come out properly and and when they do, people get upset. The common denominator on most problems with new bad/defective parts, is that they are cheap.

      Good plastic parts will last 20-30 years. Good aluminum parts may last longer but there is no market for quality aluminum parts for our cars. No one is going to buy a good aluminum housing for $30-$50. That is why you cannot find them. It's funny how people will buy a cheap aluminum housing for $10 and find out it does not work. It's weird and puzzling why people think cheap is good. I believe that is why the topic was started. "Look what I found and it's aluminum and cheap". Yes, I know I'm reading in more than what it stated.

      The first post was it's Chinesium. Further down it was mentioned that you could at least fix the Chinesium. So it was leading down the path that cheap aluminum is better than plastic.

      Buy quality. Most [not all] times, the price you are buying it will dictate the quality you are receiving. Buying a $10 aluminum casting, that is poorly finished, the O ring groove is not the correct depth [which is why it cracked], is a quick way to waste $10. You might as well have just burned the money. That goes with cheap plastic parts too.

      My point is buy quality. Stop with the nonsense of buying cheap. America has a serious issue with this. Good parts do not need to be JB welded to make them work. Good parts typically last longer. Good parts usually cost more. I too can buy cheap parts for my clients. Since I honor a common sense warranty, I cannot install a cheap coolant pump only to have it fail 3 years later. I will just have to replace the part for free later. Waste of time for my client and myself.

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      09-19-2020 03:15 AM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      There are unknowns here as to how it was installed, as we all know if you tighten a part down on one side, then tighten the other a crack can form, I usually take a 2 bolted part down equally then after a snug, I apply the proper torque. I am not saying that that was the case for failure but from the crack that would be my first assumption, or that the o-ring was too thick.

      Don't knock my conversion of the front flange off the older golfs and Cabriolets, as I have found that the 16V CTS sensor to be more reliable, and hadn't failed me as frequently as the Blue ones did, nor have I had any of my flanges break.
      I tightened lightly and evenly, then torqued to 87 inch-lbs. O-ring could have possibly been too big, but was supplied so I went with it. The seller said they are going to send another but I’ve got a plastic VW flange coming in a day or two. Probably just going to toss it on and call it a day.

      I had to do something as the other aluminum flange (like in your conversion) I had leaked from the CTS hole due to poor casting as well. Cheap crap parts. That one was made by “OSSCA”.

      FWIW as an informational point, I believe I found and communicated with the original manufacturer of this part. It’s a company called “shen farm equipment”, who was actually very responsive to my email inquiry about obtaining a part directly from them... then they sent me the same images from the AliExpress listing. Prior to that they stated they were specifically the only manufacturer they were aware of worldwide casting this part, which is why they chose to do it. Of course they claimed they have “many satisfied customers”

    21. Senior Member briano1234's Avatar
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      09-19-2020 09:07 AM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by agentphish View Post
      I tightened lightly and evenly, then torqued to 87 inch-lbs. O-ring could have possibly been too big, but was supplied so I went with it. The seller said they are going to send another but I’ve got a plastic VW flange coming in a day or two. Probably just going to toss it on and call it a day.

      I had to do something as the other aluminum flange (like in your conversion) I had leaked from the CTS hole due to poor casting as well. Cheap crap parts. That one was made by “OSSCA”.

      FWIW as an informational point, I believe I found and communicated with the original manufacturer of this part. It’s a company called “shen farm equipment”, who was actually very responsive to my email inquiry about obtaining a part directly from them... then they sent me the same images from the AliExpress listing. Prior to that they stated they were specifically the only manufacturer they were aware of worldwide casting this part, which is why they chose to do it. Of course they claimed they have “many satisfied customers”
      I have always thought that the o-ring was too small in thickness, but it had about 1/16 of a lip that exceeded the mounting flange, but it seemed to work just fine.

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