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    Thread: Question for you Tuned GLI owners

    1. Member Helltime's Avatar
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      09-16-2020 12:20 PM #1
      Factory oil for these is the vw 508 spec 0w20, now that you are tuned how many of you are still running 0w20 and how many have switched?
      If you switched what did you switch to and how many miles have you logged since the switch?
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      09-16-2020 04:24 PM #2
      Still running 508.00 0w20. 18xxx miles. Stage 2. Been tuned since about 2000 or 3000 miles

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      Last edited by burgsprinta; 09-16-2020 at 06:07 PM.

    4. Member amorro's Avatar
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      09-16-2020 05:14 PM #3
      Same, stg 2 22k miles

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    6. Member Laccos's Avatar
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      09-16-2020 07:59 PM #4
      Im still on 508 stg 2 9k miles. Liquimoly is in right now ive ran 5w40 but honestly after having the 508 back in I dont see the point in running it until Stage 3. Why get less MPG when you dont need to run it.

    7. Member Helltime's Avatar
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      09-16-2020 10:26 PM #5
      thank you for the replies, I am due for an oil change and have a tune on the way so I was curious what everyone else has done.
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      09-17-2020 08:59 AM #6
      For those who have tunes, how high does your oil temp get? And at what point does oil become too thin to do its job?

      https://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Aut..._explained.htm

      “The ideal viscosity at a bearing is around 10cSt or higher depending on various factors such as the load, rpm and design or dimensions of the bearing shells. Much higher than this and drag results, much lower than this and boundary lubrication occurs.”

      According this engineering paper, 10 cSt is ideal but I’ve read in other papers that 7 cSt is still fine. I suppose 7 cSt still falls inside the "much lower" range this paper mentions. Normal operating temps for engine oil is about 212°F. At 212°F, 20-weight oil is about 7 cSt. No surprise that 20-weight oil is perfectly fine. FYI, at 212°F 30-weight oil is about 12 cSt.

      I’ve seen my oil temp reach 230°F in traffic on a hot day. It was not for a long time, but at 230°F, 20-weight oil drops to 5 cSt. That’s too thin for my comfort. If that happened regularly I'd worry about cooking my turbo’s bearing. However at 230°F, 30-weight oil drops to about 7 cSt, essentially the same as 20-weight oil at 212°F.

      Do you think a tuned engine will get hotter than a non-tuned engine? When hot, will you be pushing it hard? Will it be under heavy load and ask more from its oil? Hopefully this info will help you make the best decision for your car and for your driving habits.

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      09-17-2020 09:07 AM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by 6MTGLI View Post
      For those who have tunes, how high does your oil temp get? And at what point does oil become too thin to do its job?

      https://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Aut..._explained.htm

      “The ideal viscosity at a bearing is around 10cSt or higher depending on various factors such as the load, rpm and design or dimensions of the bearing shells. Much higher than this and drag results, much lower than this and boundary lubrication occurs.”

      According this engineering paper, 10 cSt is ideal but I’ve read in other papers that 7 cSt is still fine. I suppose 7 cSt still falls inside the "much lower" range this paper mentions. Normal operating temps for engine oil is about 212°F. At 212°F, 20-weight oil is about 7 cSt. No surprise that 20-weight oil is perfectly fine. FYI, at 212°F 30-weight oil is about 12 cSt.

      I’ve seen my oil temp reach 230°F in traffic on a hot day. It was not for a long time, but at 230°F, 20-weight oil drops to 5 cSt. That’s too thin for my comfort. If that happened regularly I'd worry about cooking my turbo’s bearing. However at 230°F, 30-weight oil drops to about 7 cSt, essentially the same as 20-weight oil at 212°F.

      Do you think a tuned engine will get hotter than a non-tuned engine? When hot, will you be pushing it hard? Will it be under heavy load and ask more from its oil? Hopefully this info will help you make the best decision for your car and for your driving habits.
      My tuned oil temps aren't much, if any higher than your non tuned oil temps. 230 is as high as I've ever seen them. I might have seen 235 once or twice in the dead of summer, but only for very short periods.

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      Last edited by burgsprinta; 09-17-2020 at 09:15 AM.

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      09-17-2020 09:24 AM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by burgsprinta View Post
      My tuned oil temps aren't much, if any higher than your non tuned oil temps. 230 is as high as I've ever seen them. I might have seen 235 once or twice in the dead of summer, but only for very short periods.

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      I trust your judgement on this. Unless a person tracks their car, most forms of acceleration are short bursts. Even if those bursts are hotter, they still don’t have enough time to “over” heat the oil. But you never know.

      For what this is worth, I change my own oil. I buy the green 508 oil from my local VW dealership but also buy “European” 0W-40 Mobil1 from Costco. In winter I do 4 quarts of 508 and one quart of 0W-40. That equates to a 0W-24 blend. In summer, I do 3 quarts of 508 and 2 quarts 0W-40. That equates to a 0W-28 blend. (It makes me feel better in hot traffic.) And even with the 2 quarts of 0W-40, the oil is still green….just in case someone looks at it.

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      09-17-2020 09:49 AM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by 6MTGLI View Post
      I trust your judgement on this. Unless a person tracks their car, most forms of acceleration are short bursts. Even if those bursts are hotter, they still don’t have enough time to “over” heat the oil. But you never know.

      For what this is worth, I change my own oil. I buy the green 508 oil from my local VW dealership but also buy “European” 0W-40 Mobil1 from Costco. In winter I do 4 quarts of 508 and one quart of 0W-40. That equates to a 0W-24 blend. In summer, I do 3 quarts of 508 and 2 quarts 0W-40. That equates to a 0W-28 blend. (It makes me feel better in hot traffic.) And even with the 2 quarts of 0W-40, the oil is still green….just in case someone looks at it.
      Yeah, if I did more than occasional 1/4 miles, which end before the oil gets too hot, I'd definitely look at 0w-30 or 5w-40. But in street use, by the time the temps start rising, you're in "go to jail" territory. Lots of folks are hitting the cooling system limits (and going into limp mode) even with no tune, on the track. So I'd upgrade the oil cooler and radiator, and use a thicker oil on the circuit. I plan on doing actual track time next year, so who knows?

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      Last edited by burgsprinta; 09-17-2020 at 09:52 AM.

    12. Member amorro's Avatar
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      09-17-2020 12:33 PM #10
      Yeah I think 225 is the most I saw this summer. Yesterday’s drive home it was 201 at cruising speed

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      09-17-2020 07:49 PM #11
      While this can turn into a giant discussion, it's something like 95% of engine wear occurs during start-up. Start-up is defined as basically whatever the temperature starts at until it reaches operating temperature. Wear occuring at high temps is not nearly as "bad" which is why letting your car get up to temp before romping on it, is necessary.

      To add to this, the ONLY TIME I have ever seen any credible source recommend higher viscosity in a car is actually GM for the 1LE Camaro (I believe the recommendation carries over for the Corvette but I'm too broke for one so I never bothered looking into it), and the recommendation was to run I believe 10W-40 on track days and to change the oil every four hours of track time. Other than that, standard oil was recommended. On a typical DD, you will not need anything heavier than what the MFG recommends.

    14. Member Laccos's Avatar
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      09-18-2020 12:35 AM #12
      A lot of the Hybrids call for 40w or greater. Ive been told not to run 508 at stage 3 as well. Who knows, people really loved the 5W40 and thats all I do know for a fact.

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      09-18-2020 04:21 PM #13
      I’ve switched to 5W-40 since switching to EQT. I was another brands stage 2 for about 6k on 0W20 just fine.

      The only reason I made the switch was because Ed at EQT said DO NOT RUN 0w-20 on his tunes when posed with the question. No issues here and oil temps are slightly lower now by approx 10 degrees.


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      09-18-2020 04:34 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by 90InA20 View Post
      I’ve switched to 5W-40 since switching to EQT. I was another brands stage 2 for about 6k on 0W20 just fine.

      The only reason I made the switch was because Ed at EQT said DO NOT RUN 0w-20 on his tunes when posed with the question. No issues here and oil temps are slightly lower now by approx 10 degrees.


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      I didn't see that from Ed. I'm on eqt too, so with that said, I'll probably switch when I change the oil next

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      09-18-2020 04:37 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by burgsprinta View Post
      I didn't see that from Ed. I'm on eqt too, so with that said, I'll probably switch when I change the oil next

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      You came from unitronic like me too right? I’m so happy I made the switch. Car freaking hauls.

      If you’re in the EQT Facebook group someone asked about using 5W-40 on the 7.5’s which switched to 0W right when our car came out. He commented in there just like that in caps. If you search the group with “0W-20” the tread is one of the first ones.


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      09-18-2020 06:22 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by 90InA20 View Post
      You came from unitronic like me too right? I’m so happy I made the switch. Car freaking hauls.

      If you’re in the EQT Facebook group someone asked about using 5W-40 on the 7.5’s which switched to 0W right when our car came out. He commented in there just like that in caps. If you search the group with “0W-20” the tread is one of the first ones.


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      Yup, I went from Unitronic too. The difference is strong. I don't think Unitronic mates well to my manual. The torque limits were too low, so it felt slow until 3rd gear, and 3rd gear is just too long to wait for acceleration, especially with the insanely long gears. Their hardware is top notch though.

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      Last edited by burgsprinta; 09-18-2020 at 06:25 PM.

    19. Member Laccos's Avatar
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      09-18-2020 06:43 PM #17
      Ive been thinking about doing an EQT turbo swap. I did get confirmation of E85 tunes in the pipe from APR though, E85 and a IHI IS38 is enough power to blow stock internals. Patience is not one of my virtues however. If the E85 tune isnt available by next summer ill probably be getting the IS38 core EQT Vortex with the boost hoses. I dont really want another turbo hitting peak boost at 3k RPMs and that will happen with the IS20 spec EQT Vortex.

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      09-18-2020 09:36 PM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by burgsprinta View Post
      Yup, I went from Unitronic too. The difference is strong. I don't think Unitronic mates well to my manual. The torque limits were too low, so it felt slow until 3rd gear, and 3rd gear is just too long to wait for acceleration, especially with the insanely long gears. Their hardware is top notch though.

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      Yeah my unitronic was running very very rich. On DSG it feels slow where it really isn’t. But because it’s timing based it suffered inconsistent performance with gas/weather even with their intercooler. I finally tried adding 2 gallons of ethanol and that fixed the performance issue but it still never gave me the holy sh** push you back in your seat feeling. I thought the GLI was too well mannered until EQT.

      I had a laundry list of problems on Uni stage 2 though and their horrible customer service is what made me switch. I’m glad I did because it’s not what I wanted anyways. Like you said, their hardware and even the stage 1+ are great.


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      09-18-2020 09:51 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by 90InA20 View Post
      Yeah my unitronic was running very very rich. On DSG it feels slow where it really isn’t. But because it’s timing based it suffered inconsistent performance with gas/weather even with their intercooler. I finally tried adding 2 gallons of ethanol and that fixed the performance issue but it still never gave me the holy sh** push you back in your seat feeling. I thought the GLI was too well mannered until EQT.

      I had a laundry list of problems on Uni stage 2 though and their horrible customer service is what made me switch. I’m glad I did because it’s not what I wanted anyways. Like you said, their hardware and even the stage 1+ are great.


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      Then maybe it wasn't just the transmission combination. I never had any customer service issues though. It just felt rubber band like in the low gears though. Of course, now, with eqt, I have an uncontrollable amount of low rpm torque now, too, haha.

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      Last edited by burgsprinta; 09-18-2020 at 09:56 PM.

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      09-18-2020 09:55 PM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by burgsprinta View Post
      Then maybe it wasn't just the transmission combination. I never had any customer service issues though. It just felt rubber band like in the low gears though. Of course, now, with eqt, I have an uncontrollable amount of low end torque now, too, haha.

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      That’s a good way to describe it hahaha. I always say uni felt like car was fighting itself to go fast. Like I was driving against a wind tunnel.

      EQT is a bunch of fun. I’m (im)patiently waiting for the E30 tune to come out so I can destroy another set of tires.


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      09-18-2020 10:16 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by Laccos View Post
      Ive been thinking about doing an EQT turbo swap. I did get confirmation of E85 tunes in the pipe from APR though, E85 and a IHI IS38 is enough power to blow stock internals. Patience is not one of my virtues however. If the E85 tune isnt available by next summer ill probably be getting the IS38 core EQT Vortex with the boost hoses. I dont really want another turbo hitting peak boost at 3k RPMs and that will happen with the IS20 spec EQT Vortex.
      The Vortex XL is close to blowing stock internals on pump gas lol. E85 would make a lot of sense as a way forward for APR and their EPA issues though.

      I’ve been throwing around this conundrum for a while too though. Vortex + E85 can get up to 600 hp but almost certainly requires buying a built block from IE. But the is20 is getting boring and I want to buy a new turbo but don’t want to have to buy a turbo twice.

      Do I spend $4000 and get the vortex/tunes on pump gas and then build the motor and get MPI for E85 down the road? Or will the IS38 + E85 for $2k be enough for a fwd car. And will I have ethanol when I move out of Virginia in a year?


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      09-18-2020 10:28 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by 90InA20 View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Laccos View Post
      Ive been thinking about doing an EQT turbo swap. I did get confirmation of E85 tunes in the pipe from APR though, E85 and a IHI IS38 is enough power to blow stock internals. Patience is not one of my virtues however. If the E85 tune isnt available by next summer ill probably be getting the IS38 core EQT Vortex with the boost hoses. I dont really want another turbo hitting peak boost at 3k RPMs and that will happen with the IS20 spec EQT Vortex.
      The Vortex XL is close to blowing stock internals on pump gas lol. E85 would make a lot of sense as a way forward for APR and their EPA issues though.

      I’ve been throwing around this conundrum for a while too though. Vortex + E85 can get up to 600 hp but almost certainly requires buying a built block from IE. But the is20 is getting boring and I want to buy a new turbo but don’t want to have to buy a turbo twice.

      Do I spend $4000 and get the vortex/tunes on pump gas and then build the motor and get MPI for E85 down the road? Or will the IS38 + E85 for $2k be enough for a fwd car. And will I have ethanol when I move out of Virginia in a year?


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      If you're already bored with the IS20, go with the Vortex. I'd be surprised if you went with a full E85 tune from Sneekytuned you'd say that the IS20 is boring. You'll probably pick up another 40HP/TQ

    25. Member Helltime's Avatar
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      09-19-2020 01:43 PM #23
      I wish I would have came back in here before ordering my oil this morning. I just went EQT and wow, when driving normal its so much smoother than stock and you can feel the torque even without getting after it. Unfortunately with stock tires its easy to light them up in 2nd gear 40mph up to 60mph lol. Trying to decide if clutch should be upgraded next or tires.
      15k miles was too long to wait to tune this car.
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      09-19-2020 02:08 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by Helltime View Post
      I wish I would have came back in here before ordering my oil this morning. I just went EQT and wow, when driving normal its so much smoother than stock and you can feel the torque even without getting after it. Unfortunately with stock tires its easy to light them up in 2nd gear 40mph up to 60mph lol. Trying to decide if clutch should be upgraded next or tires.
      15k miles was too long to wait to tune this car.
      EQT does that even with summer rubber! Welcome to the club! As far as the clutch goes, depends on your driving style, how long it'll last. But it will go eventually, so be ready. I'd do tires first. Don't launch it on the stock clutch, and remember to downshift on steep inclines, or when you want to accelerate on the highway, even if it doesn't feel like you have to. My stock clutch was still good when I pulled it. I will say, be careful with the clutch you choose, once you do get one, though. They are not all created equal (personal experience).

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      Last edited by burgsprinta; 09-19-2020 at 02:22 PM.

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      09-19-2020 02:15 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by Helltime View Post
      I wish I would have came back in here before ordering my oil this morning. I just went EQT and wow, when driving normal its so much smoother than stock and you can feel the torque even without getting after it. Unfortunately with stock tires its easy to light them up in 2nd gear 40mph up to 60mph lol. Trying to decide if clutch should be upgraded next or tires.
      15k miles was too long to wait to tune this car.
      Definitely get better tires because the stock ones are flat out dangerous. But even then you’ll still spin. It’s one of the joys of EQT is that torque down low that never quits. Don’t worry too much about the oil. Lots of people running 0W-20 because it’s the manufacturer recommendation. If you ordered from ECS they will let you return the oil for the 5W.


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